Are there any ground covers that are compatible with (not killed by)
Roundup?

We have some bare areas, (idiot) gardner has always just sprayed
Roundup there. I didn't even realize that's what he was doing, until
recently.

So, maybe I can try some ground covers, creeping thyme, red clover,
seedum, maybe some mosses. Are any of these more or less compatible
with Roundup in between or nearby, or even right on top?

Thanx.

J.

My brother used to plant plots of clover before deer season. He would
till the area and spray with Roundup about a month and a half - two
months before he planted. The white clover always done just fine

Rich

On 2/18/2010 3:43 PM, JRStern wrote:
Are there any ground covers that are compatible with (not killed by)
Roundup?

We have some bare areas, (idiot) gardner has always just sprayed
Roundup there. I didn't even realize that's what he was doing, until
recently.

So, maybe I can try some ground covers, creeping thyme, red clover,
seedum, maybe some mosses. Are any of these more or less compatible
with Roundup in between or nearby, or even right on top?

Thanx.

J.


What kinds of weeds are the problem? If they are grasses, there are
herbicides that kill only grass and leave most broad-leaf plants alone.

As for plants that are resistent to RoundUp, you will have to ask
Monsanto. They are constantly developing RoundUp-resistent crops
through genetic engineering.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

"JRStern" wrote in message
...
Are there any ground covers that are compatible with (not killed by)
Roundup?

We have some bare areas, (idiot) gardner has always just sprayed
Roundup there. I didn't even realize that's what he was doing, until
recently.

So, maybe I can try some ground covers, creeping thyme, red clover,
seedum, maybe some mosses. Are any of these more or less compatible
with Roundup in between or nearby, or even right on top?

Not if the gardener is going to keep spraying Roundup there. However, if
you are asking if you can plant where Roundup was sprayed in the past, then
yes, you can plant in that spot. Roundup is considered to be a non-residual
herbicide.

On Feb 18, 5:43*pm, JRStern wrote:
Are there any ground covers that are compatible with (not killed by)
Roundup?

We have some bare areas, (idiot) gardner...

Not really necessary...

...has always just sprayed
Roundup there. *I didn't even realize that's what he was doing, until
recently.

So, maybe I can try some ground covers, creeping thyme, red clover,
seedum, maybe some mosses. *Are any of these more or less compatible
with Roundup in between or nearby, or even right on top?


There are no ground covers which will survive a glyphosate (Roundup's
active ingredient) application. If Roundup is sprayed near plants and
applied properly, it will not drift and your plants should be fine.
As far as planting in soil which has been sprayed with glyphosate, it
can be done almost immediately as there are no residual effects.

On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 07:03:29 -0800 (PST), troyc
wrote:

There are no ground covers which will survive a glyphosate (Roundup's
active ingredient) application. If Roundup is sprayed near plants and
applied properly, it will not drift and your plants should be fine.
As far as planting in soil which has been sprayed with glyphosate, it
can be done almost immediately as there are no residual effects.

OK, thanks.

I should probably have the gardener put in the ground cover, he'll
maybe be more responsible about it that way.

J.

On Feb 19, 10:30*am, JRStern wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 07:03:29 -0800 (PST), troyc
wrote:

There are no ground covers which will survive a glyphosate (Roundup's
active ingredient) application. *IfRoundupis sprayed near plants and
applied properly, it will not drift and your plants should be fine.
As far as planting in soil which has been sprayed with glyphosate, it
can be done almost immediately as there are no residual effects.

OK, thanks.

I should probably have the gardener put in the ground cover, he'll
maybe be more responsible about it that way.

J.

grin I suspect that will help! :-) Good luck with your garden!

On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 08:30:27 -0800, JRStern
wrote:

On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 07:03:29 -0800 (PST), troyc
wrote:

There are no ground covers which will survive a glyphosate (Roundup's
active ingredient) application. If Roundup is sprayed near plants and
applied properly, it will not drift and your plants should be fine.
As far as planting in soil which has been sprayed with glyphosate, it
can be done almost immediately as there are no residual effects.

OK, thanks.

I should probably have the gardener put in the ground cover, he'll
maybe be more responsible about it that way.

J.

The main concept of ground cover is to behave as an invasive living
mulch that smothers other plant growth... simply till and plant ground
cover... there is no beneficial reason to spray the area with
defolient prior to planting. Any "weed" seeds already in the ground
and/or new arrivals will not be affected by defolient anyway and once
you plant ground cover you can't use a defolient on newly emerging
weeds without killing your new ground cover plants. Regardless what
you do there will always be weeds to deal with, the trick is to reduce
the probability of weed growth without negatively affecting your new
plantings. I would cover the newly tilled area with a layer of straw
and then put in my ground cover plants... the straw will act as a
short term mulch that will significantly inhibit weed growth until the
ground cover gets a good start. Straw is cheap, needs no tools to
apply other than your hands and becomes composted quickly which amends
the soil, much better than costly, dangerous, and pervasive chemicals.
Even if your ground cover is a newly seeded lawn covering the seed
with straw will encourage faster germination by retaining moisture and
will deter the birds from eating your seed.

On 2/18/2010 6:43 PM, JRStern wrote:
Are there any ground covers that are compatible with (not killed by)
Roundup?

We have some bare areas, (idiot) gardner has always just sprayed
Roundup there. I didn't even realize that's what he was doing, until
recently.

So, maybe I can try some ground covers, creeping thyme, red clover,
seedum, maybe some mosses. Are any of these more or less compatible
with Roundup in between or nearby, or even right on top?

Thanx.

J.


After many attempts at eradicating it I've determined that the English Ivy
(which is attempting to swallow the wooded area in front of my house and
acting like kudzu) is pretty much immune to Roundup, even when mixed to the
"brush killer" strength. The waxy cuticle on the leaves seems to prevent
them from taking up the glyphosate and even adding a wetting agent to the
spray doesn't seem to make it work much better.

On Feb 19, 12:34*pm, John McGaw wrote:


After many attempts at eradicating it I've determined that the English Ivy
(which is attempting to swallow the wooded area in front of my house and
acting like kudzu) is pretty much immune toRoundup, even when mixed to the
"brush killer" strength. The waxy cuticle on the leaves seems to prevent
them from taking up the glyphosate and even adding a wetting agent to the
spray doesn't seem to make it work much better.

Yes, Roundup is known to be relatively weak on vines (such as wild
morningglories). One thing you can do is add a couple ounces of
ammonium sulfate (if it's available to you) to the water & dissolve
before adding in the Roundup. The active ingredient in Roundup
(glyphosate) is very polar and will attach to minerals such as calcium
in the water, 'tying it up' and not letting it be available to enter
the plant cells. If added first, ammonium sulfate will attach to the
ions in the water and leave the glyphosate free to do its job.

On Feb 19, 11:42*am, brooklyn1 wrote:
.... the straw will act as a
short term mulch that will significantly inhibit weed growth until the
ground cover gets a good start. *Straw is cheap, needs no tools to
apply other than your hands and becomes composted quickly which amends
the soil, much better than costly, dangerous, and pervasive chemicals.
Even if your ground cover is a newly seeded lawn covering the seed
with straw will encourage faster germination by retaining moisture and
will deter the birds from eating your seed.

Make sure you get clean straw (straw can be full of weeds & seeds),
and don't work it in to the soil - lay it on top. Straw worked in to
the soil will rob nitrogen for a time as it decays.

On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 11:36:01 -0800 (PST), troyc
wrote:

Make sure you get clean straw (straw can be full of weeds & seeds),
and don't work it in to the soil - lay it on top. Straw worked in to
the soil will rob nitrogen for a time as it decays.

How about some bark chips? unlikely to include seeds.

J.

On Feb 19, 3:08*pm, JRStern wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 11:36:01 -0800 (PST), troyc
wrote:

Make sure you get clean straw (straw can be full ofweeds& seeds),
and don't work it in to the soil - lay it on top. *Straw worked in to
the soil will rob nitrogen for a time as it decays.

How about some bark chips? *unlikely to include seeds.

J.


Up to you & depends. If the area will remain exposed, bark mulch will
certainly look nice (if a fresh layer is 'top-dressed' yearly). And
if applied thickly it will hold back weeds fairly well (you will still
have some weeds regardless - Mother Nature is tenacious).

If it's all going to be buried under your ground cover eventually
anyway, clean straw is probably better. DEFINITELY don't till in wood
chips unless you want to be adding N fertilizer for the rest of your
life.

troyc wrote:

On Feb 19, 11:42*am, brooklyn1 wrote:
... the straw will act as a
short term mulch that will significantly inhibit weed growth until the
ground cover gets a good start. *Straw is cheap, needs no tools to
apply other than your hands and becomes composted quickly which amends
the soil, much better than costly, dangerous, and pervasive chemicals.
Even if your ground cover is a newly seeded lawn covering the seed
with straw will encourage faster germination by retaining moisture and
will deter the birds from eating your seed.

Make sure you get clean straw (straw can be full of weeds & seeds),

There are seeds in the ground naturally, with new seeds added to the
mix constantly, naturally, from many sources, by many means, by wind,
bird excrement, etc. What one needs to grasp is that the straw will
deter germination/propagation of most seeds, even its own seeds, while
giving the ground cover plants time to take hold. Once ground cover
begins to propogate it takes care of whatever few weeds escape...
certain plants are called ground cover for a reason, thier growth
habit surpasses competition. A secondary purpose of ground cover
could be to deter erosion but primarily to ensure that no other plants
compete, which is why it's important to choose the correct ground
cover for the locale... often folks indescriminately choose a ground
cover because they think it's handsome but if it can't compete with
native plants it would not become a sucessful ground cover.

and don't work it in to the soil - lay it on top. Straw worked in to
the soil will rob nitrogen for a time as it decays.

That's what I said, why would someone work straw into the soil when
it's purpose is a mulch? The concept of using straw as a mulch as
averse to a more sturdy mulching material, is that it will decompose
at about the same rate a ground cover grows.
Didn't you read and undertand what I wrote?

On Feb 19, 4:11*pm, brooklyn1 wrote:
troyc wrote:


Make sure you get clean straw (straw can be full ofweeds& seeds),

There are seeds in the ground naturally, with new seeds added to the
mix constantly, naturally, from many sources, by many means, by wind,
bird excrement, etc. *What one needs to grasp is that the straw will
deter germination/propagation of most seeds, even its own seeds, while
giving the ground cover plants time to take hold. *

It will only deter germination on seeds which are at the bottom of the
pile, most of which will be. However, trust me, I have seen people
increase their weed issues with dirty straw.

Once ground cover
begins to propogate it takes care of whatever fewweedsescape...
certain plants are called ground cover for a reason, thier growth
habit surpasses competition. *A secondary purpose of ground cover
could be to deter erosion but primarily to ensure that no other plants
compete, which is why it's important to choose the correct ground
cover for the locale... often folks indescriminately choose a ground
cover because they think it's handsome but if it can't compete with
native plants it would not become a sucessful ground cover.

Yes, quite correct.


and don't work it in to the soil - lay it on top. *Straw worked in to
the soil will rob nitrogen for a time as it decays.

That's what I said, why would someone work straw into the soil when
it's purpose is a mulch? * The concept of using straw as a mulch as
averse to a more sturdy mulching material, is that it will decompose
at about the same rate a ground cover grows.
Didn't you read and undertand what I wrote?

I understood it perfectly - no need to be snotty about it. We're
having a reasonable discussion here.

I wrote that as a caution, because *I've seen people do it* (and stunt
their plants in the process). They do it because they think if they
work a load of straw in next to their plants it will deter weeds and
provide nutrients in the process - not realizing the high C:N ratio
will tie up nitrogen for awhile. My reply was a caution to the person
who who was asking the original question in the thread. Chill out.