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#16
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Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in treetrunks
On Jul 29, 9:25*am, Sum Guy wrote:
JimT wrote: Decks and other exposed wood which has been cut and milled into lumber is no longer alive... Wood on a tree is still alive and growing... As has already been mentioned, the wood inside a tree under the bark is actually dead wood. *The only difference between it and the lumber you buy at Lowes is that the wood in the tree hasn't been milled. It is best to leave tree wounds alone and allow them to heal naturally... *Exceptions to this logic are rare... If the exposed surface is large enough, the wood can rot and/or be attacked by insects before the tree has a chance to grow bark to cover it. I think that different climates can be more problematic than others. *In the north-east and great-lakes area, you have a shorter growing season (takes more time to cover exposed cuts with bark) and lots of humidity and freeze-thaw action in the winter, both of which is hard on untreated exposed wood. The non-cambium layers of a tree's wood is dead, but not dead in the way animals die. Wood is pretty stupid, pardon my French - it doesn't _know_ it's dead. So it keeps on trying to fulfill its function which is to transport water. It will do this whether or not it is still in tree form or built into a deck or whatever. Any coating put on a tree that is intended to protect it from water will interfere with the tree's eons-long evolution of its healing process. It is important how, when and where to prune limbs. Improper pruning will not allow the tree to heal. http://www.gardenguides.com/69432-pr...ver-maple.html "Prune maples during their dormant period when you can see their shape and branches. Pruning in late fall or early winter removes wood when pests and diseases are not likely to thrive on the green wood." "Avoid making "flush" cuts that destroy the bark collar or "stub" cuts that leave exposed wood beyond the collar that may be susceptible to disease." Murphy's Law predicts that the most 'important' trees will suffer the most egregious fates. If you need a tree for privacy, don't expect it to be around forever. A general overview of the Silver Maple: http://hort.ufl.edu/trees/ACESACA.pdf It's not a forever tree, it has 'issues'. R |
#17
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Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in tree trunks
On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 09:01:20 -0400, "Marty B." wrote:
-snip- Silver maple is a garbage tree. The wood is soft because they grow so fast. Surely you've noticed how they break during wind, and how fast those things grow. Why you would want to save the thing is beyond comprehension. Not the OP-- but here's why I want *my* silver maple. It is 150 years old & has more character than I can afford to buy. It also shades the back of my house and my patio. It is messy-- it drops limbs, seeds, buds, and leaves during the year. But it also provides a few gallons of sweet maple syrup when the spirit moves me to tap it. Jim |
#18
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Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in treetrunks
On Jul 29, 1:21*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
Not the OP-- but here's why I want *my* silver maple. * It is 150 years old & has more character than I can afford to buy. * It also shades the back of my house and my patio. * * * * It is messy-- it drops limbs, seeds, buds, and leaves during the year. But it also provides a few gallons of sweet maple syrup when the spirit moves me to tap it. How long does it take to boil it down, and where do you do it? R |
#19
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Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in tree trunks
On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 13:03:34 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
wrote: On Jul 29, 1:21*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote: Not the OP-- but here's why I want *my* silver maple. * It is 150 years old & has more character than I can afford to buy. * It also shades the back of my house and my patio. * * * * It is messy-- it drops limbs, seeds, buds, and leaves during the year. But it also provides a few gallons of sweet maple syrup when the spirit moves me to tap it. How long does it take to boil it down, and where do you do it? Forever- and in my kitchen. I haven't done it since I installed a humidifier, so the extra humidity has been welcome. I set it on a slow boil for a couple days-- It doesn't need any attention until it starts to color up a bit. [Then things can get tricky fast- I never had problems with boiling 100gallons of sap adding too much moisture to the house-- but on a couple occasions it went from syrup to sugar to carbon while I wasn't paying attention. *That* stinks up the house.] I probably use one burner on the stove for 12 hours a day for 2-3 weeks to yield 3-4 gallons of syrup & a bit of sugar candy. [wild ass guesses - I haven't done it in a few years. Hmmmm- just thought of another use for my new Bayou burner-- I might do some sap next spring and just finish it in the kitchen. Jim |
#20
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Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in treetrunks
RicodJour wrote:
The non-cambium layers of a tree's wood is dead, but not dead in the way animals die. Wood is pretty stupid, pardon my French - it doesn't _know_ it's dead. So it keeps on trying to fulfill its function which is to transport water. Again you are talking about the recently-dead layers (xylem) immediately under the vascular cambium. Under that layer is the secondary xylem, which no longer conducts water and is used to store waste products (in some cases - resins). The secondary xylem is also known as heartwood, and this is what is used to produce modern dimensional lumber. Both the Xylem and heartwood (secondary xylem) are composed of dead cells. They are structurally intact, but they no longer respire (ie - they are not biochemically active). When a limb of sufficient size is cut near the trunk, you will be exposing this dead heartwood region, which is incapable of protecting itself against weather, sun, fungal and insect dammage. Only new cambium growth over the exposed area will eventually provide this protection. It will do this whether or not it is still in tree form or built into a deck or whatever. Not really. Heartwood is not a good conductor of water. In fact, it is necessary that the heartwood not contain significant amounts of water, since that would dammage it during freeze-thaw (expansion-contraction) cycles in the winter. Any coating put on a tree that is intended to protect it from water will interfere with the tree's eons-long evolution of its healing process. Heartwood is not normally exposed, so the application of a coating to it will shield it against sun, rain, humidity, fungal and insect attack. Normally the cambium and bark performs this function. It is important how, when and where to prune limbs. Improper pruning will not allow the tree to heal. Yes, there is a correct cut-line to use for the most optimal removal of a limb from the trunk. But we digress. |
#21
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Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in treetrunks
Jim Elbrecht wrote:
Not the OP-- but here's why I want *my* silver maple. ... But it also provides a few gallons of sweet maple syrup when the spirit moves me to tap it. Um - I didn't think that silver maples gave good syrup. That's why sugar maples are called "sugar maples". |
#22
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Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in tree trunks
On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 19:27:30 -0400, Sum Guy wrote:
Jim Elbrecht wrote: Not the OP-- but here's why I want *my* silver maple. ... But it also provides a few gallons of sweet maple syrup when the spirit moves me to tap it. Um - I didn't think that silver maples gave good syrup. That's why sugar maples are called "sugar maples". I have 2 sugar maples on the other side of my house. Probably about the same age as my silver- about 2feet in diameter. [the silver is 3-4] I tapped them a couple years. They gave less sap and it was not as sweet as the silver. I've talked to others with the same experience. Sugar maples are less prone to limb damage and don't have surface roots. But other than that I don't know why sugarbushes don't use them more. Jim [BTW- I've never tapped them, but others have extolled the virtues of white birch and Box Elder [aka Black Maple] sap.] |
#23
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Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in treetrunks
In article ,
RicodJour wrote: [ ... ] It is important how, when and where to prune limbs. Improper pruning will not allow the tree to heal. http://www.gardenguides.com/69432-pr...ver-maple.html [ ... ] The proper way to prune a silver maple (much different from red or sugar maples) is horizontally just above ground level. Then, apply copious amounts of Roundup or similar herbicide to kill the roots, including where they break the surface and sprout more silver maples (about every two or three feet--on each root). Those roots were a nightmare when cutting the grass; some of the roots would get high enough to interfere with the mower blade, ocasionally bending it. I cut mine down within a few years of buying my first house. The sugar maple which was planted at the same time (1956) is still growing well. I bought the house in 1979; at that time the silver maple was about 25' tall, the sugar maple was probably over 40' and now is at least 60. Sugar and red maples are keepers; silver maples are pretty (white bark, oval leaves dark green on top and silver-white on the bottom, hence the name) but incompatible with a lawn or any structures. I don't miss my silver maple at all. I miss the sugar maple that was hit by lightning and eventually blown down back in the '90s. The remaining two are still great trees. Gary -- Gary Heston http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/ If you want to reduce the level of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, go plant trees. |
#24
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Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in tree trunks
In article ,
Jim Elbrecht wrote: On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 09:01:20 -0400, "Marty B." wrote: -snip- Silver maple is a garbage tree. The wood is soft because they grow so fast. Surely you've noticed how they break during wind, and how fast those things grow. Why you would want to save the thing is beyond comprehension. Not the OP-- but here's why I want *my* silver maple. It is 150 years old & has more character than I can afford to buy. It also shades the back of my house and my patio. It is messy-- it drops limbs, seeds, buds, and leaves during the year. But it also provides a few gallons of sweet maple syrup when the spirit moves me to tap it. That's a sugar maple. Leaves shaped like the one on the Canadian flag, with dark grey-brown bark and well-behaved roots (they stay underground). Silver maples have white bark, leaves are pointed ovals, dark green on top and silver-white on the bottom, with roots that break the surface every 2-3 feet. Sugar maples are good trees; silver maples are not. Gary -- Gary Heston http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/ If you want to reduce the level of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, go plant trees. |
#25
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Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in tree trunks
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#26
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