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Old 21-07-2005, 05:36 AM
Richard
 
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Default Bulbophyllum question

Bulbophyllum laxiflorum, growing in sphagnum moss in a clay pot. Growing
indoors under fluorescent lights (12 inches from fixture) with additional
indirect light from a window. Humidity around 40 - 60% (cool mist
humidifier during the day). Watering has been sporadic this summer, at
least once a week.

Put out 5 new growths, the growths got about half the size of the mature
growths, and the leaves turned black and fell off. The pseudobulbs are
still green and look healthy, and the mature growths look fine, still have
their leaves and nicely green. Roots look good.

Anyone out there have any ideas? I'm suspecting that it might have gotten
too dry, and while watering saved the pseudobulb, the new leaves succumbed.

Richard
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Old 21-07-2005, 10:42 AM
Ray
 
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Default

Yellow-to-brown is more common with underwatering. Black is usually
indicative of some sort of fungal or bacterial infection.

I would speculate - having no further info - water on the leaves after
nightfall, not enough air flow, or something along those lines.

Or... too cool, maybe?
--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Artwork, Books and Lots of Free Info!


"Richard" wrote in message
...
Bulbophyllum laxiflorum, growing in sphagnum moss in a clay pot. Growing
indoors under fluorescent lights (12 inches from fixture) with additional
indirect light from a window. Humidity around 40 - 60% (cool mist
humidifier during the day). Watering has been sporadic this summer, at
least once a week.

Put out 5 new growths, the growths got about half the size of the mature
growths, and the leaves turned black and fell off. The pseudobulbs are
still green and look healthy, and the mature growths look fine, still have
their leaves and nicely green. Roots look good.

Anyone out there have any ideas? I'm suspecting that it might have gotten
too dry, and while watering saved the pseudobulb, the new leaves
succumbed.

Richard




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Old 22-07-2005, 05:34 AM
K Barrett
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Well bulbophyllums are my next group to be tackled. I've repotted ny Catts
and paphs and masds. Leaving the Bulbos and the miscs to be repotted next.

So just *WHAT* is it with bulbos??????? I've tried wet . moss. bark......
they just linger for me. Talk about ticking me off!!!

Bill Thoms says to put them on treefern (horizontal) in 1/4 inch of standing
water... pfft! Nada. No new growth much less blooms. So I put them on
bark and/or s moss in clay & nada: no new growths or blooms....... so WHAT
do they want??? God they **** me off!!!!

Best result I've gotten is high light in baskets with dry moss and I thinK
they bloom just before they expire... which doesn't get me anywhere fast.

Arrgh!!!!!!!!

K Barrett



Yellow-to-brown is more common with underwatering. Black is usually
indicative of some sort of fungal or bacterial infection.

I would speculate - having no further info - water on the leaves after
nightfall, not enough air flow, or something along those lines.

Or... too cool, maybe?
--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Artwork, Books and Lots of Free Info!


"Richard" wrote in message
...
Bulbophyllum laxiflorum, growing in sphagnum moss in a clay pot. Growing
indoors under fluorescent lights (12 inches from fixture) with

additional
indirect light from a window. Humidity around 40 - 60% (cool mist
humidifier during the day). Watering has been sporadic this summer, at
least once a week.

Put out 5 new growths, the growths got about half the size of the mature
growths, and the leaves turned black and fell off. The pseudobulbs are
still green and look healthy, and the mature growths look fine, still

have
their leaves and nicely green. Roots look good.

Anyone out there have any ideas? I'm suspecting that it might have

gotten
too dry, and while watering saved the pseudobulb, the new leaves
succumbed.

Richard






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Old 22-07-2005, 11:09 AM
Susan Erickson
 
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Default

On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 21:34:53 -0700, "K Barrett"
wrote:

Well bulbophyllums are my next group to be tackled. I've repotted ny Catts
and paphs and masds. Leaving the Bulbos and the miscs to be repotted next.

So just *WHAT* is it with bulbos??????? I've tried wet . moss. bark......
they just linger for me. Talk about ticking me off!!!

Bill Thoms says to put them on treefern (horizontal) in 1/4 inch of standing
water... pfft! Nada. No new growth much less blooms. So I put them on
bark and/or s moss in clay & nada: no new growths or blooms....... so WHAT
do they want??? God they **** me off!!!!

Best result I've gotten is high light in baskets with dry moss and I thinK
they bloom just before they expire... which doesn't get me anywhere fast.

Arrgh!!!!!!!!

K Barrett


Part of the problem is there are different requirements for
different ones. Some grow suspended in baskets of moss under the
Ascda's - These are 3/4 shade and very moist. Others like B.
lobbii 'Kathy's Gold' grow on the slab and would probably be
happier on a horizontal mat slab - but the mount area is
vertical. I have 2 that have gone adventurous and grown into the
upright on the mount wall. Humidity above 75% and the wall gets
misted when the floor does to raise the humidity or cool the
place. These may have a bit more light.

Cirr. I have in pots and in epi light. The problem is all these
plants ramble and are hard to contain.
SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/albums.php
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Old 22-07-2005, 04:41 PM
K Barrett
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Susan Erickson" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 21:34:53 -0700, "K Barrett"
wrote:

Well bulbophyllums are my next group to be tackled. I've repotted ny

Catts
and paphs and masds. Leaving the Bulbos and the miscs to be repotted

next.

So just *WHAT* is it with bulbos??????? I've tried wet . moss.

bark......
they just linger for me. Talk about ticking me off!!!

Bill Thoms says to put them on treefern (horizontal) in 1/4 inch of

standing
water... pfft! Nada. No new growth much less blooms. So I put them on
bark and/or s moss in clay & nada: no new growths or blooms....... so

WHAT
do they want??? God they **** me off!!!!

Best result I've gotten is high light in baskets with dry moss and I

thinK
they bloom just before they expire... which doesn't get me anywhere

fast.

Arrgh!!!!!!!!

K Barrett


Part of the problem is there are different requirements for
different ones. Some grow suspended in baskets of moss under the
Ascda's - These are 3/4 shade and very moist. Others like B.
lobbii 'Kathy's Gold' grow on the slab and would probably be
happier on a horizontal mat slab - but the mount area is
vertical. I have 2 that have gone adventurous and grown into the
upright on the mount wall. Humidity above 75% and the wall gets
misted when the floor does to raise the humidity or cool the
place. These may have a bit more light.

Cirr. I have in pots and in epi light. The problem is all these
plants ramble and are hard to contain.
SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/albums.php


SuE, so how do you figure out their cultural conditions? Start at Jay's
page? I figured the problem was that I was trying to grow a disparate group
in one condition when in reality they want many different conditions, but am
stymied as to how to proceed to figure them out.

I have 'Kathy's Gold' in moss and clay and that seems to be going OK. I
have a medusae that's going OK too. B echinolabium is so-so in treefern and
plastic. sikkimense is going well on an upright moss slab.

Bicolor is lingering. ovalifoma is lingering, blumei is lingering.
fascinator, thses are mostly in teak baskets with moss. or upright slabs.

Grrr

K Barrett




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Old 23-07-2005, 02:00 AM
Susan Erickson
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Fri, 22 Jul 2005 08:41:43 -0700, "K Barrett"
wrote:
SuE, so how do you figure out their cultural conditions? Start at Jay's
page? I figured the problem was that I was trying to grow a disparate group
in one condition when in reality they want many different conditions, but am
stymied as to how to proceed to figure them out.

I have 'Kathy's Gold' in moss and clay and that seems to be going OK. I
have a medusae that's going OK too. B echinolabium is so-so in treefern and
plastic. sikkimense is going well on an upright moss slab.

Bicolor is lingering. ovalifoma is lingering, blumei is lingering.
fascinator, thses are mostly in teak baskets with moss. or upright slabs.

Grrr

K Barrett


My problem has been light or shade. Our Gh runs around 80%
humidity -- I should check today. Outside we have had 104
degrees and 12% humidity. It is fire season if the rains from
Emily don't come north.

I mostly hang them on the less sunny side of the taller Ascda's
and look for light leaves. If I see them I move them down into
more shade. I have grown them as they were purchased except to
try to figure out the light. Fascinator takes quite a bit of
sun, my teak basket came apart so I will be re-basketing this
one. Kathy gold is on a mount of oak bark on a shelf and leaning
against the back wall below the mounts. This is fairly shady. My
medusae has not bloomed. Mostly I would suggest mounts if you
have a 'wet wall' and baskets of moss or bulb pan's so they can
ramble. The fool things like to send runners out to the next
spot they decide to colonize. This does not make for happy pots.
I rather gave up on a standard orchid pot style. They want
surface area that they can spread over. That is why mounts are
so good. We have seen several grown on a bark mount that was
held flat, parallel to the ground. This gives them the room to
roam without the vertical challenge.

SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/albums.php
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Old 26-07-2005, 01:08 AM
Dave Sheehy
 
Posts: n/a
Default

K Barrett ) wrote:
: So just *WHAT* is it with bulbos??????? I've tried wet . moss. bark......
: they just linger for me. Talk about ticking me off!!!

: Bill Thoms says to put them on treefern (horizontal) in 1/4 inch of standing
: water... pfft! Nada. No new growth much less blooms. So I put them on
: bark and/or s moss in clay & nada: no new growths or blooms....... so WHAT
: do they want??? God they **** me off!!!!

: Best result I've gotten is high light in baskets with dry moss and I thinK
: they bloom just before they expire... which doesn't get me anywhere fast.

About 2 years ago you I was thinking about getting into Bulbos and their ilk
after I fell in love with Cirr. Elizabeth Ann 'Buckleberry'. I was wondering
if it would be possible to keep them in my window sill environment. For
reference I grow the majority of my plants in an east facing window that gets
lots of morning sun and the humidity runs between 30-60%. You and I (mostly,
there might have been a couple of other people chime in) discussed it on rgo
and ended up concluding the only way to find out would be to try it out and
see what happened.

Here's what I found out so far for my environment. A month or so after
our discussion I bought a Cirr Elizabeth Ann from a vendor at the AOS show
in Sacramento. It was mounted in a nice thick wad of spagh on a piece of
cork. It was spiking and the spike matured and bloomed, so far so good.
The following year a new bulb formed and spiked but the buds blasted 2 days
after I fertilized it (@#?&!). Encouraged by my success so far I bought a
Bulb. wendlandianum start and co-mounted it with the Elizabeth Ann. It
sulked for at least 6 months, lost the only leaf it had but finally grew a
new bulb and is doing OK so far. The Elizabeth Ann has really taken off this
year. It has 2 leads now and one of the leads produced 2 new psuedobulbs.
The leaves are twice as big as any of the previous leaves so it appears to
be quite happy. It should spike sometime in August so it's too early yet to
know for sure if it will bloom this year.

So, for me a hanging cork mount with spaghnum is working pretty well. I water
every 2-3 days by soaking the spagh thoroughly. The spagh is often bone dry
to the touch so the plants aren't constantly damp as is often recomended. I
don't consciously dry them out, mounted plants in my environment dry out
pretty quickly and I can't be chained to the kitchen sink watering my plants
all day at their beck and whim. It even went without watering for over week
while I was on vacation. I was worried about how well it would take being
dry for week but it doesn't seem to have bothered it all. Right now, I've
got my fingers crossed that I'll be getting not one, but 3 flower spikes
this year from the Eliz. Ann this year and if I'm really lucky a spike from
the B. wendlandianum although it may still be a bit small for that.

Hope that helps,

Dave

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Old 26-07-2005, 03:30 AM
K Barrett
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Dave Sheehy" wrote in message
...
K Barrett ) wrote:
: So just *WHAT* is it with bulbos??????? I've tried wet . moss.

bark......
: they just linger for me. Talk about ticking me off!!!

: Bill Thoms says to put them on treefern (horizontal) in 1/4 inch of

standing
: water... pfft! Nada. No new growth much less blooms. So I put them on
: bark and/or s moss in clay & nada: no new growths or blooms....... so

WHAT
: do they want??? God they **** me off!!!!

: Best result I've gotten is high light in baskets with dry moss and I

thinK
: they bloom just before they expire... which doesn't get me anywhere

fast.

About 2 years ago you I was thinking about getting into Bulbos and their

ilk
after I fell in love with Cirr. Elizabeth Ann 'Buckleberry'. I was

wondering
if it would be possible to keep them in my window sill environment. For
reference I grow the majority of my plants in an east facing window that

gets
lots of morning sun and the humidity runs between 30-60%. You and I

(mostly,
there might have been a couple of other people chime in) discussed it on

rgo
and ended up concluding the only way to find out would be to try it out

and
see what happened.

Here's what I found out so far for my environment. A month or so after
our discussion I bought a Cirr Elizabeth Ann from a vendor at the AOS show
in Sacramento. It was mounted in a nice thick wad of spagh on a piece of
cork. It was spiking and the spike matured and bloomed, so far so good.
The following year a new bulb formed and spiked but the buds blasted 2

days
after I fertilized it (@#?&!). Encouraged by my success so far I bought a
Bulb. wendlandianum start and co-mounted it with the Elizabeth Ann. It
sulked for at least 6 months, lost the only leaf it had but finally grew a
new bulb and is doing OK so far. The Elizabeth Ann has really taken off

this
year. It has 2 leads now and one of the leads produced 2 new psuedobulbs.
The leaves are twice as big as any of the previous leaves so it appears to
be quite happy. It should spike sometime in August so it's too early yet

to
know for sure if it will bloom this year.

So, for me a hanging cork mount with spaghnum is working pretty well. I

water
every 2-3 days by soaking the spagh thoroughly. The spagh is often bone

dry
to the touch so the plants aren't constantly damp as is often recomended.

I
don't consciously dry them out, mounted plants in my environment dry out
pretty quickly and I can't be chained to the kitchen sink watering my

plants
all day at their beck and whim. It even went without watering for over

week
while I was on vacation. I was worried about how well it would take being
dry for week but it doesn't seem to have bothered it all. Right now, I've
got my fingers crossed that I'll be getting not one, but 3 flower spikes
this year from the Eliz. Ann this year and if I'm really lucky a spike

from
the B. wendlandianum although it may still be a bit small for that.

Hope that helps,

Dave


Well that makes me feel a little better, Dave. The wet then dry cycle seems
to be the key....

I actually *read* a book about these, (Segirst's book on Bulbos) and she
recommends an open medium, that allows the plant to get wet and then dry
over the day. Maybe a basket lined with sphag and filled with bark mix
perhaps top-dressed with s moss....

Argh!

I decide to read the book AFTER I took all mine out of moss and clay and put
them in moss and plastic baskets..... But you should have seen the bush
snails!!! ICK! And the fungus gnat population has been reduced (for this
nano-second only...)

Also she recommends 'light shade' for the species I'm growing...now I have
to figure out what she means by that. I think I'll put them in phal light
and bump up from there.

sigh. Good thing I'll never have to decide whether to take the lady or the
tiger...looks like when given an option I'll choose wrong every time! *G*!

K


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Old 26-07-2005, 05:27 AM
Susan Erickson
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Mon, 25 Jul 2005 19:30:09 -0700, "K Barrett"
wrote:
Well that makes me feel a little better, Dave. The wet then dry cycle seems
to be the key....

I actually *read* a book about these, (Segirst's book on Bulbos) and she
recommends an open medium, that allows the plant to get wet and then dry
over the day. Maybe a basket lined with sphag and filled with bark mix
perhaps top-dressed with s moss....

Argh!

I decide to read the book AFTER I took all mine out of moss and clay and put
them in moss and plastic baskets..... But you should have seen the bush
snails!!! ICK! And the fungus gnat population has been reduced (for this
nano-second only...)

Also she recommends 'light shade' for the species I'm growing...now I have
to figure out what she means by that. I think I'll put them in phal light
and bump up from there.

sigh. Good thing I'll never have to decide whether to take the lady or the
tiger...looks like when given an option I'll choose wrong every time! *G*!

K


For me - if the leaves are not 'rich' green - turn the slightest
bit light - it is too much. Let us know what you find.
SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/albums.php
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Old 29-07-2005, 07:11 PM
Dave Sheehy
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Susan Erickson ) wrote:
: For me - if the leaves are not 'rich' green - turn the slightest
: bit light - it is too much. Let us know what you find.

What happens to the plant if the leaves 'turn the slightest bit light'?
Does the plant fail to thrive or just not bloom? I ask because the newer
leaves on my Eliz. Ann are a lighter shade of green than the older leaves.
I've always wondered if that was good, bad, or neutral. Since my plant has
apparently been growing well I haven't worried about it too much.

Dave



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