"BenignVanilla" m
wrote:

"John Hines" wrote in message
.. .
snip
I sent it a few days ago. I resent it today.
snip

I got it. Very interesting reading. For my first attempt, I think I can draw
from several of your ideas...

Not my idea, I got it of the web googling. I don't remember where, so
I don't post it, cause its not mine.

Go BV!

--
______________________________________________
See our pond at: home.bellsouth.net\p\pwp-jameshurley
Check out Jog-A-Thon fundraiser (clears $140+ per child) at: jogathon.net
______________________________________________
"BenignVanilla" m wrote in
message ...
OK gang, time to be McGyver as someone suggested in another thread. I am
getting this damn clay out of my pond this month. I plan to take a couple
of
garbage cans and use them as settling chambers.

I am looking for some opinions on design. As this is a temporary filter
just
for the clay, I am looking to do it cheap. I have two old garbage cans
that
I can destroy.

My primary question now is how should the water flow? Up or down? I mean,
should I pump water into the bottom of the can, fill the can with filter
media, and have it overflow out the top or vice versa?

--
BenignVanilla
Pond Site: www.darofamily.com/jeff/links/mypond
Remove MYFRONTALLOBE to email me.

I challenged you to McGyver something up, I am glad you are coming back to
the BV we know and love!

Here is my 2cents from 1st hand experience (don't ask).

A couple of trash cans. Place the cans on concrete blocks such that at
least the top 12-18 inches is above your water level!

Pump water to the bottom of the cans using pvc or flex hose from the top,
but the hose or pvc extends all the way to the bottom. (9" from the bottom
actually to reduce stirring up the settled material. Fill the darn trash
can with polyester batt (Cheap from Wal-Mart. $1.95 a bag. Will need tops
10 bags for both cans).

Cut holes on the side of the trash cans just above the pond water line so
that the water can spill back out (This means you pick up your water from
the other end from where the trash cans are placed.)

When batt is full of clay, take cans out, empty can and batt. Fill can with
new batt, and let it cycle again. You can thank us later for helping you
retain your position as the CPO of the community pond!

3-5 days you are clayless! If this does not work, then you will need the
exorcist to cast the demon out of your clay!

--
_______________________________________
"The difference between 'involvement' and 'commitment' is
like an eggs-and-ham breakfast:
The chicken was 'involved' - the pig was 'committed'."

http://community.webshots.com/user/godwino

"BenignVanilla" m wrote in
message ...
OK gang, time to be McGyver as someone suggested in another thread. I am
getting this damn clay out of my pond this month. I plan to take a couple
of
garbage cans and use them as settling chambers.

I am looking for some opinions on design. As this is a temporary filter
just
for the clay, I am looking to do it cheap. I have two old garbage cans
that
I can destroy.

My primary question now is how should the water flow? Up or down? I mean,
should I pump water into the bottom of the can, fill the can with filter
media, and have it overflow out the top or vice versa?

--
BenignVanilla
Pond Site: www.darofamily.com/jeff/links/mypond
Remove MYFRONTALLOBE to email me.

"Just Me "Koi"" wrote in message
...
I challenged you to McGyver something up, I am glad you are coming back to
the BV we know and love!

Here is my 2cents from 1st hand experience (don't ask).

A couple of trash cans. Place the cans on concrete blocks such that at
least the top 12-18 inches is above your water level!
snip

Weird. I posted a response from home last night and I don't see it here. If
it turns up, forgive my duplicate.

Turns out my garbage cans all had holes in them and the 300gph pump I bought
wouldn't fill fast enough. SO...I took the 40 gallon or so rubbermaid for
the kids toys, and sunk it in a shallow area of the main pond. I dropped a
new 300gph pump in the bottom of the pond, and ran the output to the bottom
of the rubbermaid. I then filled the rubber maid with 4 yards of batting. It
took awhile, but the rubbermaid filled and the slowly began to overflow into
the pond.

This morning, after about 12 hours, the pond does not look much clearer yet.
I am thinking since I killed the fish last week, I may just dump some more
calcite in and see if that helps.

BV.

when my students fractionate out soil the last fraction in suspension is clay and it
takes a good 2-3 days for it to settle so the water is clear. fraid this isnt going
to do it. Ingrid

"BenignVanilla" m wrote:

OK gang, time to be McGyver as someone suggested in another thread. I am
getting this damn clay out of my pond this month. I plan to take a couple of
garbage cans and use them as settling chambers.

I am looking for some opinions on design. As this is a temporary filter just
for the clay, I am looking to do it cheap. I have two old garbage cans that
I can destroy.

My primary question now is how should the water flow? Up or down? I mean,
should I pump water into the bottom of the can, fill the can with filter
media, and have it overflow out the top or vice versa?

wrote in message
...
when my students fractionate out soil the last fraction in suspension is
clay and it
takes a good 2-3 days for it to settle so the water is clear. fraid this
isnt going
to do it. Ingrid
snip

I can't say what is working or not working, but my water is getting clearer.
I did dose with calcite again this week, and I put the McGyver Clay Filter
on-line as well. The water is by no means 'clear', it is still orange, but I
am able to see much further down as of yesterday, and the batting is
definately turning orange.

It poured last night, and will do so again for several days, so I expect I
will be back to square one soon. *laugh*

I think I am going to go buy a 55 gallon drum of Amquel, and just keep doing
water changes until it is clear. Water bill...here I come.

BV.

right. needs something to bind the particles up so they precip. Ingrid

"BenignVanilla" m wrote:

wrote in message
...
when my students fractionate out soil the last fraction in suspension is
clay and it
takes a good 2-3 days for it to settle so the water is clear. fraid this
isnt going
to do it. Ingrid
snip

I can't say what is working or not working, but my water is getting clearer.
I did dose with calcite again this week, and I put the McGyver Clay Filter
on-line as well. The water is by no means 'clear', it is still orange, but I
am able to see much further down as of yesterday, and the batting is
definately turning orange.

It poured last night, and will do so again for several days, so I expect I
will be back to square one soon. *laugh*

I think I am going to go buy a 55 gallon drum of Amquel, and just keep doing
water changes until it is clear. Water bill...here I come.

BV.

"BenignVanilla" m wrote in message ...
wrote in message
...
when my students fractionate out soil the last fraction in suspension is
clay and it
takes a good 2-3 days for it to settle so the water is clear. fraid this
isnt going
to do it. Ingrid
snip

I can't say what is working or not working, but my water is getting clearer.
I did dose with calcite again this week, and I put the McGyver Clay Filter
on-line as well. The water is by no means 'clear', it is still orange, but I
am able to see much further down as of yesterday, and the batting is
definately turning orange.

It poured last night, and will do so again for several days, so I expect I
will be back to square one soon. *laugh*

I think I am going to go buy a 55 gallon drum of Amquel, and just keep doing
water changes until it is clear. Water bill...here I come.

BV.

One more point, maybe you should add a berm to keep the clay from
washing into the pond.

"BenignVanilla" m
wrote:

wrote in message
...
when my students fractionate out soil the last fraction in suspension is
clay and it
takes a good 2-3 days for it to settle so the water is clear. fraid this
isnt going
to do it. Ingrid
snip

I can't say what is working or not working, but my water is getting clearer.
I did dose with calcite again this week, and I put the McGyver Clay Filter
on-line as well. The water is by no means 'clear', it is still orange, but I
am able to see much further down as of yesterday, and the batting is
definately turning orange.

It poured last night, and will do so again for several days, so I expect I
will be back to square one soon. *laugh*

Maybe just cover your yard in Koi clay instead? It comes in one
ton bags!

I am thinking we need to order some patience for our BV! OTOH overnight
should have cleared it up! You have demonic clay, and may need to seek some
exorcist help soon!

--
_______________________________________
"The difference between 'involvement' and 'commitment' is
like an eggs-and-ham breakfast:
The chicken was 'involved' - the pig was 'committed'."

http://community.webshots.com/user/godwino

"BenignVanilla" m wrote in
message ...
"Just Me "Koi"" wrote in message
...
I challenged you to McGyver something up, I am glad you are coming back
to
the BV we know and love!

Here is my 2cents from 1st hand experience (don't ask).

A couple of trash cans. Place the cans on concrete blocks such that at
least the top 12-18 inches is above your water level!
snip

Weird. I posted a response from home last night and I don't see it here.
If
it turns up, forgive my duplicate.

Turns out my garbage cans all had holes in them and the 300gph pump I
bought
wouldn't fill fast enough. SO...I took the 40 gallon or so rubbermaid for
the kids toys, and sunk it in a shallow area of the main pond. I dropped a
new 300gph pump in the bottom of the pond, and ran the output to the
bottom
of the rubbermaid. I then filled the rubber maid with 4 yards of batting.
It
took awhile, but the rubbermaid filled and the slowly began to overflow
into
the pond.

This morning, after about 12 hours, the pond does not look much clearer
yet.
I am thinking since I killed the fish last week, I may just dump some more
calcite in and see if that helps.

BV.

"Bonnie NJ" wrote in message
m...
snip
One more point, maybe you should add a berm to keep the clay from
washing into the pond.

I have laid rock and sod in all areas where the clay can wash in, except for
one area near the VF. I don't think it is running in anymore, because the
ground around those areas does not seem to show run off damage. I do plan to
run some more rock there, just in case, but I think the problem is my
current clay, not the extra.

I noticed when I was cleaning it last week, the water was getting very
clear. In fact the VF was perfect. Then I got in to do some maintenance,
stirred it up and ick...it was back. I think the particles are so fine that
they just stay suspended with the slightest motion of the water.

The McGyver filter is helping, but not drastically. I am beginning to think
water changes (after a proper stirring as my wife said) will be the next
line of attack. Waiter? A pictcher of Amquel please.

BV.

"John Hines" wrote in message
...
snip
Maybe just cover your yard in Koi clay instead? It comes in one
ton bags!

I have so much dern clay now...

"Just Me "Koi"" wrote in message
...
I am thinking we need to order some patience for our BV! OTOH overnight
should have cleared it up! You have demonic clay, and may need to seek
some
exorcist help soon!
snip

I tellin' ya! This stuff just does not want to fall out. I don't want to add
any more calcite, for fear of over dosing the pond. Water changes, yeah,
water changes.

BV.

BenignVanilla wrote:

I tellin' ya! This stuff just does not want to fall out. I don't want to add
any more calcite, for fear of over dosing the pond. Water changes, yeah,
water changes.

One thing that I've used to filter out pea green soup algae is a
drainage pipe filter sleeve. Maybe it would work for clay fines. See one
brand he

http://www.carriff.com/products_ds.html#features

The brand I bought is Plastic Services & Products and is available at
our local Home Depot. I used a 10 foot x 4 inch sleeve, doubled it (ran
half back through other half), tied a knot in one end, and used a
plastic strip tie or a wire-tie to attach it to pump outlet pipe. (I
used it going into my filtering barrels, but you could use it for the
pipe going back to your main pond. Stir up the water in the bottom of
main pond, and the filter "sock" should filter out more of the clay.
Good luck!
--
Kathy B, zookeeper
3500gal pond, 13 pond pigs
Oregon

I really think Kathy is onto something BV. The fabric is similar or the
same as the siltation/erosion control fabric used along side highway
construction sites to keep the clay and silt from leaving the construction
site and flowing down stream. It will allow some clay to pass through, but
as it builds up, it becomes more efficient. Eventually it becomes so
efficient that it won't pass water, so get more than one and when the pump
slows way down, change it.
--
RichToyBox
http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html


"zookeeper" wrote in message
...
BenignVanilla wrote:

I tellin' ya! This stuff just does not want to fall out. I don't want to
add
any more calcite, for fear of over dosing the pond. Water changes, yeah,
water changes.

One thing that I've used to filter out pea green soup algae is a
drainage pipe filter sleeve. Maybe it would work for clay fines. See one
brand he

http://www.carriff.com/products_ds.html#features

The brand I bought is Plastic Services & Products and is available at
our local Home Depot. I used a 10 foot x 4 inch sleeve, doubled it (ran
half back through other half), tied a knot in one end, and used a
plastic strip tie or a wire-tie to attach it to pump outlet pipe. (I
used it going into my filtering barrels, but you could use it for the
pipe going back to your main pond. Stir up the water in the bottom of
main pond, and the filter "sock" should filter out more of the clay.
Good luck!
--
Kathy B, zookeeper
3500gal pond, 13 pond pigs
Oregon