Try as I might, and unlike Monty Don, I am unable to get my ''Gardener's
Delight' tomato seeds to germinate. Should tomato seeds be germinated in the
dark or the light? May 1st. now and I'm fast running out of patience.

MikeCT

Mine were germinated in the light. Seem to have grown ok but they did take
a fair while to germinate for me.

Donna

"MikeCT" wrote in message
...
Try as I might, and unlike Monty Don, I am unable to get my ''Gardener's
Delight' tomato seeds to germinate. Should tomato seeds be germinated in
the dark or the light? May 1st. now and I'm fast running out of patience.

MikeCT

Hello Mike,

They should germinate easily in 7 to 10 days in a small pot on a warm
windowsill or conservatory, just slightly covered in compost and kept damp -
ideally with a plastic cover or bag over the top. Old seed can take longer
or not germinate at all.

The only alternative at this time of year is to buy small plants - cost more
but at least you wont waste any more time and will have back up if the seeds
you have really are duds.

Hope this helps............good luck

Alan
"MikeCT" wrote in message
...
Try as I might, and unlike Monty Don, I am unable to get my ''Gardener's
Delight' tomato seeds to germinate. Should tomato seeds be germinated in
the dark or the light? May 1st. now and I'm fast running out of patience.

MikeCT

Try as I might, and unlike Monty Don, I am unable to get my ''Gardener's
Delight' tomato seeds to germinate. Should tomato seeds be germinated in
the dark or the light? May 1st. now and I'm fast running out of patience.

MikeCT

We've just got back to Normandy from a week in England and came back armed
with a Gardener's World. The free chives and lettuce seeds packets had a
good quantity of seeds, but on opened the tomato seed packed it was
disappointing to find only 8 seeds.

While filling a small trough with compost a sudden gust of wind blew the
opened seed packet away! There were only 2 seeds left tucked into a corner!
I promise never to complain again - honest! I'll have to look out for stray
tomato plants growing on the gravel drive now!

--
David
.... Email address on website http://www.avisoft.co.uk

"MikeCT" wrote in message
...
Try as I might, and unlike Monty Don, I am unable to get my ''Gardener's
Delight' tomato seeds to germinate. Should tomato seeds be germinated in
the dark or the light? May 1st. now and I'm fast running out of patience.

Mine took long time to germinate, mine were left in the light, I suspect it
wouldn't really make any difference if they were in the dark!

On Tue, 1 May 2007 15:42:56 +0100, "ALAN"
wrote and included this
(or some of this):

Hello Mike,

They should germinate easily in 7 to 10 days in a small pot on a warm
windowsill or conservatory, just slightly covered in compost and kept damp -
ideally with a plastic cover or bag over the top. Old seed can take longer
or not germinate at all.

You're right there. You may be lucky with old seed but it's often a
waste of time with tomatoes.. The date of packing as printed is not
there for fun.


--
®óñ© © ²°¹°-°³

"MikeCT" wrote in message
...
Try as I might, and unlike Monty Don, I am unable to get my ''Gardener's
Delight' tomato seeds to germinate. Should tomato seeds be germinated in
the dark or the light? May 1st. now and I'm fast running out of patience.

MikeCT



I think they need to be warm. I planted some in a seed tray in the kitchen,
and others in a seed bed in the garden. Today three weeks on, the ones in
the garden have still not germinated, the ones in the seed tray are big
enough to transplant.

John.

How do I start tomatoes from seed?



#1 Get Fresh Seeds
For the best chances of success, acquire your seeds from reputable
commercial sources. As tomato seeds age, their germination rate decreases.
It is best to use seed that is less than 4 years old; however, seed that is
much older can usually be germinated if has been stored in cool and dry
conditions.

#2 Get a Seed Starting Mix
Garden soil is not a good choice, as it compacts too easily and can harbor
organisms that cause diseases. A commercially prepared seed starting mix,
usually a combination of peat moss, vermiculite and perlite, is recommended.
Avoid mixes that have a high fertilizer content, as this causes more
problems than good. Commonly used and recommended mixes are Jiffy Mix,
ProMix, MetroMix and Fafard. Many other brands, or even homemade mixes, can
be used.

Combine the seed starting mix thoroughly with warm water to bring it to a
useable state. This may take quite a lot of mixing, as completely dry mixes
can be difficult to wet. Sometimes it's best to let the moistened mix sit
overnight to be sure that it is evenly wet. The final mix should be damp
like a wrung-out sponge, not soaked or soggy.

#3 Select Some Containers
Tomato seeds will germinate in anything as long as the seeds get moisture
and warmth. After germination and initial growth, the seedlings need to be
potted up to larger containers. Containers must be able to drain excess
water. If using old or previously used containers, its best to sterilize
them with a 10% bleach solution.

Your choice of containers for potting up depends on the number of plants you
desire. Professional nurseries use growing "flats" with various-sized
plastic cell inserts. Many sizes and kinds of flats are commercially
available to the home grower, but they are not essential.

Many home growers use styrofoam or plastic drinking cups with holes poked in
the bottom. Just about anything will work as long as excess water can drain.

#4 Determine When to Start
Many novices fail at starting tomatoes simply because they start too early.
Given the proper care, full-sized tomato transplants can be grown in 6 to 8
weeks.

Before planting seeds, you must determine when your plants can be safely
placed into the garden. Planting outdoors is best done about 1 or 2 weeks
after the average last frost date for your area.

Ask friends or use web resources to find your average last frost date, then
do the math to calculate your seed starting date.

#5 Plant Your Seeds
Fill a small container with damp seed starting mix. Plant your seeds about
1/8 inch (3 mm) deep. Firm the mix lightly to ensure that the seed is in
direct contact with the moist mix. The seed needs to absorb moisture during
the germination process.

You can plant lots of seeds close together because the resulting seedlings
will be moved to larger containers after germination (when the first true
leaves appear).

It is a good idea to provide some sort of covering over your germination
containers to preserve moisture. You can place the container in a plastic
bag or cover it with a sheet of plastic. Allow for some air to circulate but
don't let the mix dry out. Dry seeds will not germinate.

#6 Patiently Wait for Germination
Place the germination container in a warm location out of direct sunlight.
Light is not needed during the germination process, but will not be harmful
as long as high temperatures are avoided.

Tomato seeds usually germinate within 5 to 10 days when kept in the optimum
temperature range of 70 to 80F (21 to 27C). Germination is delayed by lower
temperatures and accelerated by higher temperatures. Temperatures below 50F
(10C) or above 95F (35C) are detrimental to germination.

Keep a close eye on the first seedlings, as they need to be moved into
bright light as soon as they emerge from the soil. They will explosively
reach for light, and if the light is not adequate, you will get 3-inch-long
(8 cm long) stems shortly after germination - this is very undesirable. If
this occurs, you could try to transplant to a deeper container, or you may
want to start over.

#7 Put the Seedlings under Light
Very strong light is needed to support tomato growth. A heated greenhouse is
the ultimate location to continue growing your seedlings. A second choice
would be a cold frame (possibly with supplemental heat for cool nights).

Many home growers use inexpensive fluorescent shop lights. A south-facing
windowsill can work but usually presents more problems than the fluorescent
shop light setup.

If fluorescent shop lights are used, the leaves of the plants must be within
inches of the bulbs. Use your own creativity to make a setup that gets the
plants directly under the bulbs. The lights should remain on for 16 to 18
hours per day.

#8 Monitor the Plants as They Grow On
Tomato seedlings grow best at a temperature of about 65F (18C) with some air
circulation and lots of light.

When watering, most growers soak the mix and then let it get nearly dry
before providing more water.

When the plants develop their first true leaves, they should be transplanted
into larger individual containers. The plants actually benefit from this
re-potting step, as it helps them develop a strong root system. The plants
may be set deeply into their new containers to shorten the height of the
seedling.

Most commercial seed starting mixtures have a small amount of fertilizer
that will support small seedlings for some time. Depending on the components
of your starting mix, you may need to begin fertilizing. If you do
fertilize, do it very, very sparingly with a weak dilution.

Depending on the size of your containers and your growing conditions, you
may need to pot up a second or third time to prevent your plants from
becoming rootbound.

The plants require good lighting to continue to grow well. Place the plants
where they get plenty of sunlight, and if that is not possible or adequate,
use fluorescent fixtures, or specialized high-intensity grow lamps, or use a
combination of natural and artificial lighting.

Keeping large tomato plants indoors, under artifical lighting, can be quite
difficult. To avoid problems, don't start too early. The best solution to
the lighting dilemma is to plan your seed starting date so that the
transplants reach a reasonable size along with the arrival of suitable
outdoor temperatures.

#9 Harden Off your Transplants
Introduce the plants to outdoor conditions slowly. This is called "hardening
off". If it is not done slowly your plants may be shocked and their growth
may temporarily cease.

The longer the plants remains indoors, the harder it will be to acclimate
them to the outdoors. Avoid full sun and wind when you first move them
outside.

Cold frames can be used to harden off the plants. The covers can remain in
place on inclement days and removed on moderate days.

Temporary structures can be built from plastic sheeting. Buildings and
fences can be used to provide sun and wind protection while the plants adapt
to outside conditions.

If really cold weather is forecast 40F (4C), it is best to bring the plants
back inside. Freezing temperatures will destroy your plants (and it happens
fast).

After the transplants are hardened off, they can be planted to their final
outdoor growing locations either in the garden or in large growing
containers. Most agree that any early blossoms should be plucked off prior
to transplanting. Others leave the early blossoms in place, especially if
the transplant is strong, healthy, and not rootbound.

Common Problems

Leggy Seedlings
The plants can become "leggy," the stems being elongated and limp, and the
foliage sparse. Leggy seedlings usually occur due to insufficient lighting,
too much heat, or too much fertilizer. Suggested remedies, short of starting
over, are to repot the plants deeper as described earlier in Step #8, and to
use a fan to improve air circulation and keep temperatures moderated,
resulting in stockier and stronger plants.

Damping Off
Characterized by lack of germination (pre-emergent) or causes narrowing of
the newly emerged stems at the soil line and the tiny seedlings then flop
over and die (post-emergent). Various fungi are responsible for the
condition and they are found in high concentrations in any mix with real
soil. That's why it's best to use the artificial seed starting mixes
mentioned in step #2. Also, it's very important to be sure that plastic
domes or baggies on your containers are not airtight. If these precautions
are observed, it is unlikely that you will experience damping off.

Slow Growth
When seedlings refuse to grow it is usually because the temperature is too
low or the nutrient level is insufficient.

Stuck Leaves
Sometimes the cotyledons (the first leaves formed from the seed) have
trouble getting loose from the seed coating. Be patient, as the leaves will
usually escape. You could wet the seed coating, or you could try to
carefully pinch off the seed coat, but if you pinch off the cotyledons, the
seedling will likely die. A simple way to wet the seedlings is with a spray
bottle of water set to mist. A small drop of saliva is also very effective
at loosening seedcoats.

Over-watering
Many growers fail with tomato plants because they over-water. Soggy soil
will cause seed to rot. Once the seedlings are growing, they should be
watered thoroughly then left un-watered until they are almost ready to wilt.

Over-fertilizing
Overfertilizing can cause seedlings to die, to stop growing, or to grow
rapidly into spindly plants. One or at most 2 applications of very dilute
fertilizer are adequate to get a seedling through to transplant size.




--

Baal

I smile and go off waving
(Amiably) - for that's my way
"MikeCT" wrote in message
...
Try as I might, and unlike Monty Don, I am unable to get my ''Gardener's
Delight' tomato seeds to germinate. Should tomato seeds be germinated in
the dark or the light? May 1st. now and I'm fast running out of patience.

MikeCT




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Tue, 1 May 2007 09:04:30 +0100, MikeCT wrote
(in article ):

Try as I might, and unlike Monty Don, I am unable to get my ''Gardener's
Delight' tomato seeds to germinate. Should tomato seeds be germinated in the
dark or the light? May 1st. now and I'm fast running out of patience.



My Gardener's Delight took 11 days in an unheated greenhouse, in the light.
No plastic bag over or anything, just one per small pot. However, it isn't
too late to sow some more. Last year I didn't sow them till 14th May - and
they took 11 days then!



--
Sally in Shropshire, UK
bed and breakfast near Ludlow: http://www.stonybrook-ludlow.co.uk
Burne-Jones/William Morris window in Shropshire church:
http://www.whitton-stmarys.org.uk

My thanks to Donna, Baal and Sally for their replies. I'll have another go,
with fresh seeds, starting today.

MikeCT

On Wed, 2 May 2007 09:22:01 +0100, MikeCT wrote
(in article ):

My thanks to Donna, Baal and Sally for their replies. I'll have another go,
with fresh seeds, starting today.



I have just looked again at my notes, and my maths is rubbish! My seeds took
11 days to germinate this year, but 15 days last year when I sowed them so
much later!



--
Sally in Shropshire, UK
bed and breakfast near Ludlow: http://www.stonybrook-ludlow.co.uk
Burne-Jones/William Morris window in Shropshire church:
http://www.whitton-stmarys.org.uk

"MikeCT" wrote in message
...
Try as I might, and unlike Monty Don, I am unable to get my ''Gardener's
Delight' tomato seeds to germinate. Should tomato seeds be germinated in
the
dark or the light? May 1st. now and I'm fast running out of patience.

MikeCT



Chit them between two small sheets of moist kitchen towel or four folded
sheets of thick toilet paper.

Moisten but don't saturate the paper with a fine mist of luke-warm water
from a plant sprayer. Lay the seeds out on the paper.

I make pairs of "slides" using the lids of margarine tubs - held together
with elastic bands and put the folded paper cut to size inside those, and
open up and inspect them daily. They can also be remoistened if necessary.

They can be left almost anywhere within reason - and light or dark - clear
or coloured lids doesn't seem to make any difference.

After a few days the small while radicle root will appear from the
pointed end of the seeds. Remove seeds as they sprout and "plant"
them rot end down into pots of compost. Or trays to suit. Make a slit
in the compost and push the seed into one side and the firm it up all
round rather than pushing it in directly as the root is brittle and
may break off.

The only extra equipment you may need are a pair of tweezers for
handling the seeds.

I got into the habit of chitting almost everything except carrots,
brassicas, lettuce, cacti etc ( even leeks and onions ) on account
of being short of room for pots on the windowsill and the cost of some
f1 hybrid, seed years ago. And have never gone back. There's far
less waste of seed, far fewer variables and far fewer things to go
wrong.


michael adams

....

®óñ© © "°'°-°" wrote:

On Tue, 1 May 2007 15:42:56 +0100, "ALAN"
wrote and included this
(or some of this):

Hello Mike,

They should germinate easily in 7 to 10 days in a small pot on a warm
windowsill or conservatory, just slightly covered in compost and kept damp -
ideally with a plastic cover or bag over the top. Old seed can take longer
or not germinate at all.

You're right there. You may be lucky with old seed but it's often a
waste of time with tomatoes.. The date of packing as printed is not
there for fun.

On the other hand, I've sown two varieties this year - Matina, which was
bought fresh this year and Golden Sunrise which has been in the fridge
for a year, or possibly two.

Currently I have two seedlings of each....

Admittedly there *were* a couple more of the Matinas, but the (insert
rude words of choice here) slugs got them...

--
Carol
"The glassblower's cat is bompstable"
- Dorothy L. Sayers, _Clouds of Witness_

"MikeCT" wrote in
:

Try as I might, and unlike Monty Don, I am unable to get my
''Gardener's Delight' tomato seeds to germinate. Should tomato seeds
be germinated in the dark or the light? May 1st. now and I'm fast
running out of patience.

MikeCT



Hi Mike,the method that works well for me and for just about all seeds is,
Fill a 3in. pot with compost.
Water it VERY well.
Sprinkle on the seed.
Put a fine covering of vermiculite on top.
Place in the smallest cheapest electric proporgator you can get.
Works every time.
Hope this helps.

Scouse

On 1 May, 09:04, "MikeCT" wrote:
Try as I might, and unlike Monty Don, I am unable to get my ''Gardener's
Delight' tomato seeds to germinate. Should tomato seeds be germinated in the
dark or the light? May 1st. now and I'm fast running out of patience.

I now germinate all my seeds with 100% success with a mix of JI seeds
compost mixed in with perlite (not vermiculite as I keep saying when I
talk about it). All my seeds are under propagators, no heat, just a
plastic cover and if I have pots I use plastic bags to make a little
propagator. I now have all type of propagator, from the one with a
little fleece at the bottom, the polysterene ones and the simple black
tray with a clear lid. All seeds need air via good drainage, light,
warmth and a light compost. Once watered the condensation will keep
the environment in the propagator moist. There is nothing that can go
wrong in this way - there's no chance for the seeds to fail. The only
thing is that if you water too much you'll create a fungi and your
seedlings will die.

I used to put everything on window seals (I don't have a greenhouse)
and turn the tray/pots around to stop the seedling bending, watering
them often and one simply hasn't enough window seals ... I would very
much recommend the way above. It saves time, money and most of all
disapointment.