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#1
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electric chainsaw
Hi,
I have a line of leylandii very close to the house (like, seven feet) which I need to fell and then reduce. I presume this is a supposed hedge that got out of control and the average size is now 20+ feet high and 10" diameter (chest height). I'm thinking of getting an electric chainsaw for this, since the job is close to the house and I think an electric one might be more manageable up a ladder than a petrol-driven one, but I would welcome any experienced advice on chainsaws in general, electric ones in particular, and brands. I'd also quite like to know how *small* a diameter of branch it's feasible to cut with one. Thanks, brian mitchell |
#2
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electric chainsaw
"Brian Mitchell" wrote in message ... Hi, I have a line of leylandii very close to the house (like, seven feet) which I need to fell and then reduce. I presume this is a supposed hedge that got out of control and the average size is now 20+ feet high and 10" diameter (chest height). I'm thinking of getting an electric chainsaw for this, since the job is close to the house and I think an electric one might be more manageable up a ladder than a petrol-driven one, but I would welcome any experienced advice on chainsaws in general, electric ones in particular, and brands. I'd also quite like to know how *small* a diameter of branch it's feasible to cut with one. Thanks, brian mitchell Seven feet?? :-(( I feel sure others will advise you, but I guess it would be wise NOT to take them all out at once because of heave. -- Mike The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association www.rneba.org.uk Luxury Self Catering on the Isle of Wight? www.shanklinmanormews.co.uk |
#4
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electric chainsaw
In article ,
Brian Mitchell wrote: I have a line of leylandii very close to the house (like, seven feet) which I need to fell and then reduce. I presume this is a supposed hedge that got out of control and the average size is now 20+ feet high and 10" diameter (chest height). I'm thinking of getting an electric chainsaw for this, since the job is close to the house and I think an electric one might be more manageable up a ladder than a petrol-driven one, but I would welcome any experienced advice on chainsaws in general, electric ones in particular, and brands. I'd also quite like to know how *small* a diameter of branch it's feasible to cut with one. You're bonkers. Get a 30" bow saw, and you will be vastly less likely to cut your own arms, legs and short arm off by accident. There is no problem with that diameter with that size of bow saw. It's also a hell of a lot cheaper, needs negligible maintenance and takes up less space. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#5
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electric chainsaw
Brian Mitchell wrote:
Hi, I have a line of leylandii very close to the house (like, seven feet) which I need to fell and then reduce. I presume this is a supposed hedge that got out of control and the average size is now 20+ feet high and 10" diameter (chest height). We had (and still have some of) a similar but much larger problem, ours are getting on for 50ft high! I'm thinking of getting an electric chainsaw for this, since the job is close to the house and I think an electric one might be more manageable up a ladder than a petrol-driven one, but I would welcome any Don't even *think* of using a chainsaw up a ladder, it's a horribly dangerous thing to do, especially as you haven't used one before. I'm not saying don't use a chainsaw, I've done much as you want to do on our rather larger Leylandii. It's quite do'able as long as you're careful. experienced advice on chainsaws in general, electric ones in particular, and brands. I'd also quite like to know how *small* a diameter of branch it's feasible to cut with one. Do lots of reading about chainsaw safety etc., some of it isn't wholly applicable to electric chainsaws but most of it makes a lot of sense. I'd recommend either getting *very* familiar with using the chainsaw to cut logs etc. before felling trees or going on some sort of course. You don't really want to buy a chainsaw and immediately go out and chop down trees. I've used (and worn out) two electric chainsaws, first was a B&D, second was a Bosch, I now have a Makita. Nothing particularly wrong with either the B&D or the Bosch, they served me well. The Makita is somewhat better but there isn't a *huge* difference. For your sort of job I think I'd recommend something like the Bosch. You can cut as small as you like, one of the things that an electric chainsaw is very good at is 'shaving' all the small twiggery off branches. Just be aware that this will flick twigs etc. at you quite voilently so good face protection is essential. If/when you do decide to cut the trees down the safest way is to cut a foot or two above the ground when you will have a safe and solid stance. I'm not going to say much more because a Google search will find you sites with much more complete (and better) safety rules than I can come up with in a short post here. -- Chris Green |
#6
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electric chainsaw
Brian Mitchell wrote:
Hi, I have a line of leylandii very close to the house (like, seven feet) which I need to fell and then reduce. I presume this is a supposed hedge that got out of control and the average size is now 20+ feet high and 10" diameter (chest height). Hmmm. Firewood! I'm thinking of getting an electric chainsaw for this, since the job is close to the house and I think an electric one might be more manageable up a ladder than a petrol-driven one, but I would welcome any experienced advice on chainsaws in general, electric ones in particular, and brands. I'd also quite like to know how *small* a diameter of branch it's feasible to cut with one. Well, if you must get an electric one, don't get one with a twisty locking knob on the side - the old-fashioned lock-it-with-a-spanner jobs don't come undone while you're working. I've never know a twistylocking-knob model not to come loose during operation. Then, the cheaper ones lose their grip on the locking nut when you (or in the case of the one I've got, a neighbour) turns it beyond the strength of the plastic. He gave me one of his defunct chainsaws on the understanding that if I could fix it, I'd mend his other one. Duly did both (drilling a couple of small holes corresponding with the slots in the shaft and bending a piece of stainless-steel welding rod into a big staple shape. Still comes loose, and I use a bowsaw or big crosscut now in preference. Also, I fear that the lead might get in the way while you're up the tree. Back in the late 1950s we (Emerson Park Tree Felling Company) used a 36" Pioneer - up trees in excess of 150 ft... Elfin Safety'd have a fit now! Nor did we have leggings, jackets, helmets, etc. Goggles and leather gloves, ropes, tackle and so-on, yes. I don't think these handy accesories are de rigeur if you are using a power saw on your own property, yourself, but check the law *VERY* carefully if a neighbour asks you to use it on his land... -- Rusty |
#7
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electric chainsaw
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#8
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electric chainsaw
"'Mike'" writes:
Seven feet?? :-(( The line appoaches the house at a slight angle but the nearest is seven feet. I feel sure others will advise you, but I guess it would be wise NOT to take them all out at once because of heave. I hear what you say but I have already excavated twice between these trees and the house, once right beside the foundations and once close to the trees(to a depth of about 2ft) to install a land drain, and found a mass of small and fine roots rather than anything large. The house is on a steep stony slope and is not of normal construction; it's timber frame with cladding on a natural stone/lime mortar foundation, so it's all very flexible! To be honest, I'm more concerned about losing a useful windbreak, given all the gales we've had, but my neighbour has planted his own line of conifers (!) which are getting quite robust now. brian mitchell -- Mike The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association www.rneba.org.uk Luxury Self Catering on the Isle of Wight? www.shanklinmanormews.co.uk |
#9
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electric chainsaw
Charlie Pridham writes:
In article , says... Hi, I have a line of leylandii very close to the house (like, seven feet) which I need to fell and then reduce. I presume this is a supposed hedge that got out of control and the average size is now 20+ feet high and 10" diameter (chest height). I'm thinking of getting an electric chainsaw for this, since the job is close to the house and I think an electric one might be more manageable up a ladder than a petrol-driven one, but I would welcome any experienced advice on chainsaws in general, electric ones in particular, and brands. I'd also quite like to know how *small* a diameter of branch it's feasible to cut with one. Thanks, brian mitchell I have a Bosch (40-18S) I looked it up. It looks good, and the sort of thing I had in mind. I am not keen on using it off the ground... Because these are planted so close together (I can only just squeeze between them, and I'm thin) and the branches are so interlocked, I thought it might help with the controllability if I took off some of the larger lower branches first. be a good idea to get someone to control the tree coming down with a rope. I agree, but there is a strip of land to the other side, away from the house, to aim them into, so if I choose a windless day... Thanks. brian mitchell |
#10
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electric chainsaw
"Brian Mitchell" wrote in message ... Hi, I have a line of leylandii very close to the house (like, seven feet) which I need to fell and then reduce. I presume this is a supposed hedge that got out of control and the average size is now 20+ feet high and 10" diameter (chest height). I'm thinking of getting an electric chainsaw for this, since the job is close to the house and I think an electric one might be more manageable up a ladder than a petrol-driven one, but I would welcome any experienced advice on chainsaws in general, electric ones in particular, and brands. I'd also quite like to know how *small* a diameter of branch it's feasible to cut with one. I use one I bought from B&Q about 10 years ago. Its on its third chain and still working well. I have cut down large leylandii with it and found the best method is to cut off as many branches as you can reach from the ground first. Then cut the tree at waist level, before trimming off the remaining branches. Cutting them down is the easy bit, its clearing up afterwards that's hard work. Mike |
#11
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#12
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electric chainsaw
wrote in message ... You're bonkers. Get a 30" bow saw, and you will be vastly less likely to cut your own arms, legs and short arm off by accident. There is no problem with that diameter with that size of bow saw. It's also a hell of a lot cheaper, needs negligible maintenance and takes up less space. And is bloody hard work. Go for the chainsaw, you know you want to... Mike |
#13
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electric chainsaw
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#14
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electric chainsaw
Rusty Hinge writes:
Hmmm. Firewood! Yes. Do they burn well? Back in the late 1950s we (Emerson Park Tree Felling Company) used a 36" Pioneer - up trees in excess of 150 ft... Heroic! I was thinking in terms of a 16" about 9 or 10ft up at the most. The folk who come by to trim around the power lines seem to swing about quite happily with largeish petrol driven machines in hand. No doubt they're trained. Elfin Safety'd have a fit now! Nor did we have leggings, jackets, helmets, etc. Goggles and leather gloves, ropes, tackle and so-on, yes. I don't think these handy accesories are de rigeur if you are using a power saw on your own property, yourself... I have a lot of that stuff. Not leggings, though. Are they sexy, like chaps? brian mitchell |
#15
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electric chainsaw
"Brian Mitchell" wrote in message ... Rusty Hinge writes: Hmmm. Firewood! Yes. Do they burn well? Back in the late 1950s we (Emerson Park Tree Felling Company) used a 36" Pioneer - up trees in excess of 150 ft... Heroic! I was thinking in terms of a 16" about 9 or 10ft up at the most. The folk who come by to trim around the power lines seem to swing about quite happily with largeish petrol driven machines in hand. No doubt they're trained. Elfin Safety'd have a fit now! Nor did we have leggings, jackets, helmets, etc. Goggles and leather gloves, ropes, tackle and so-on, yes. I don't think these handy accesories are de rigeur if you are using a power saw on your own property, yourself... I have a lot of that stuff. Not leggings, though. Are they sexy, like chaps? There's a variety of advice here, and so far mostly good and sound. Plan A What *you* do on your own property with a chainsaw in hand at height won't directly break any reg's (As you aren't a contractor) but given your inexperience do you *really* want to leap around on a ladder with a running leg removal tool ? Go to a hire shop, a proper one, ask advice about hiring a saw AND the relevant safety kit. This "should" consist of a hard hat, with (built in usually), ear defenders, gloves, and suitable "Ballistic" lined coat and trousers. The coat and trousers are lined with Kevlar strands. This is the stopper for the chain BEFORE it gets to your skin, designed to block the machine with strands of shredded fibre and stall it. Believe me, it works ! (I still have the *tiniest* of lines on my thigh to prove what happens when you trip as a saw is powering DOWN and off power and you land across it) Chain brakes MUST be used BEFORE you move, I learned on my course the following week ! Plan B Get a man in! Seriously it is worth doing right and he may suggest just topping the conifers to leave an all important wind-break. Logs from Leylandii spit like f**k when still wet, smell nice, leave a tarry residue and can in some burners leave ignitable tarry deposits up the flue resulting in at a later date a lovely fire up the chimney which can warm the place to the ground! |
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