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Old 09-12-2009, 08:20 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Hi,

I have a line of leylandii very close to the house (like, seven feet)
which I need to fell and then reduce. I presume this is a supposed hedge
that got out of control and the average size is now 20+ feet high and
10" diameter (chest height).

I'm thinking of getting an electric chainsaw for this, since the job is
close to the house and I think an electric one might be more manageable
up a ladder than a petrol-driven one, but I would welcome any
experienced advice on chainsaws in general, electric ones in particular,
and brands. I'd also quite like to know how *small* a diameter of branch
it's feasible to cut with one.

Thanks,

brian mitchell
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Old 09-12-2009, 08:26 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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"Brian Mitchell" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have a line of leylandii very close to the house (like, seven feet)
which I need to fell and then reduce. I presume this is a supposed hedge
that got out of control and the average size is now 20+ feet high and
10" diameter (chest height).

I'm thinking of getting an electric chainsaw for this, since the job is
close to the house and I think an electric one might be more manageable
up a ladder than a petrol-driven one, but I would welcome any
experienced advice on chainsaws in general, electric ones in particular,
and brands. I'd also quite like to know how *small* a diameter of branch
it's feasible to cut with one.

Thanks,

brian mitchell


Seven feet?? :-((

I feel sure others will advise you, but I guess it would be wise NOT to take
them all out at once because of heave.

--
Mike

The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association
www.rneba.org.uk
Luxury Self Catering on the Isle of Wight?
www.shanklinmanormews.co.uk


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Old 09-12-2009, 09:29 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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In article ,
Brian Mitchell wrote:

I have a line of leylandii very close to the house (like, seven feet)
which I need to fell and then reduce. I presume this is a supposed hedge
that got out of control and the average size is now 20+ feet high and
10" diameter (chest height).

I'm thinking of getting an electric chainsaw for this, since the job is
close to the house and I think an electric one might be more manageable
up a ladder than a petrol-driven one, but I would welcome any
experienced advice on chainsaws in general, electric ones in particular,
and brands. I'd also quite like to know how *small* a diameter of branch
it's feasible to cut with one.


You're bonkers. Get a 30" bow saw, and you will be vastly less
likely to cut your own arms, legs and short arm off by accident.
There is no problem with that diameter with that size of bow saw.
It's also a hell of a lot cheaper, needs negligible maintenance
and takes up less space.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.
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Old 09-12-2009, 09:35 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Brian Mitchell wrote:
Hi,

I have a line of leylandii very close to the house (like, seven feet)
which I need to fell and then reduce. I presume this is a supposed hedge
that got out of control and the average size is now 20+ feet high and
10" diameter (chest height).

We had (and still have some of) a similar but much larger problem,
ours are getting on for 50ft high!


I'm thinking of getting an electric chainsaw for this, since the job is
close to the house and I think an electric one might be more manageable
up a ladder than a petrol-driven one, but I would welcome any


Don't even *think* of using a chainsaw up a ladder, it's a horribly
dangerous thing to do, especially as you haven't used one before. I'm
not saying don't use a chainsaw, I've done much as you want to do on
our rather larger Leylandii. It's quite do'able as long as you're careful.


experienced advice on chainsaws in general, electric ones in particular,
and brands. I'd also quite like to know how *small* a diameter of branch
it's feasible to cut with one.

Do lots of reading about chainsaw safety etc., some of it isn't wholly
applicable to electric chainsaws but most of it makes a lot of sense.
I'd recommend either getting *very* familiar with using the chainsaw to
cut logs etc. before felling trees or going on some sort of course.
You don't really want to buy a chainsaw and immediately go out and
chop down trees.


I've used (and worn out) two electric chainsaws, first was a B&D,
second was a Bosch, I now have a Makita. Nothing particularly wrong
with either the B&D or the Bosch, they served me well. The Makita is
somewhat better but there isn't a *huge* difference. For your sort of
job I think I'd recommend something like the Bosch.

You can cut as small as you like, one of the things that an electric
chainsaw is very good at is 'shaving' all the small twiggery off
branches. Just be aware that this will flick twigs etc. at you quite
voilently so good face protection is essential.

If/when you do decide to cut the trees down the safest way is to cut a
foot or two above the ground when you will have a safe and solid
stance. I'm not going to say much more because a Google search will
find you sites with much more complete (and better) safety rules than
I can come up with in a short post here.


--
Chris Green



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Old 09-12-2009, 09:52 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Brian Mitchell wrote:
Hi,

I have a line of leylandii very close to the house (like, seven feet)
which I need to fell and then reduce. I presume this is a supposed hedge
that got out of control and the average size is now 20+ feet high and
10" diameter (chest height).

Hmmm. Firewood!

I'm thinking of getting an electric chainsaw for this, since the job is
close to the house and I think an electric one might be more manageable
up a ladder than a petrol-driven one, but I would welcome any
experienced advice on chainsaws in general, electric ones in particular,
and brands. I'd also quite like to know how *small* a diameter of branch
it's feasible to cut with one.


Well, if you must get an electric one, don't get one with a twisty
locking knob on the side - the old-fashioned lock-it-with-a-spanner jobs
don't come undone while you're working.

I've never know a twistylocking-knob model not to come loose during
operation. Then, the cheaper ones lose their grip on the locking nut
when you (or in the case of the one I've got, a neighbour) turns it
beyond the strength of the plastic. He gave me one of his defunct
chainsaws on the understanding that if I could fix it, I'd mend his
other one.

Duly did both (drilling a couple of small holes corresponding with the
slots in the shaft and bending a piece of stainless-steel welding rod
into a big staple shape. Still comes loose, and I use a bowsaw or big
crosscut now in preference.

Also, I fear that the lead might get in the way while you're up the tree.

Back in the late 1950s we (Emerson Park Tree Felling Company) used a 36"
Pioneer - up trees in excess of 150 ft...
Elfin Safety'd have a fit now! Nor did we have leggings, jackets,
helmets, etc. Goggles and leather gloves, ropes, tackle and so-on, yes.

I don't think these handy accesories are de rigeur if you are using a
power saw on your own property, yourself, but check the law *VERY*
carefully if a neighbour asks you to use it on his land...

--
Rusty
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Old 09-12-2009, 10:07 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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"'Mike'" writes:

Seven feet?? :-((


The line appoaches the house at a slight angle but the nearest is seven feet.

I feel sure others will advise you, but I guess it would be wise NOT
to take
them all out at once because of heave.


I hear what you say but I have already excavated twice between these
trees and the house, once right beside the foundations and once close to
the trees(to a depth of about 2ft) to install a land drain, and found a
mass of small and fine roots rather than anything large. The house is on
a steep stony slope and is not of normal construction; it's timber frame
with cladding on a natural stone/lime mortar foundation, so it's all
very flexible! To be honest, I'm more concerned about losing a useful
windbreak, given all the gales we've had, but my neighbour has planted
his own line of conifers (!) which are getting quite robust now.

brian mitchell






--
Mike


The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association
www.rneba.org.uk
Luxury Self Catering on the Isle of Wight?
www.shanklinmanormews.co.uk

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Old 09-12-2009, 10:14 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Charlie Pridham writes:

In article ,
says...
Hi,

I have a line of leylandii very close to the house (like, seven feet)
which I need to fell and then reduce. I presume this is a supposed hedge
that got out of control and the average size is now 20+ feet high and
10" diameter (chest height).

I'm thinking of getting an electric chainsaw for this, since the job is
close to the house and I think an electric one might be more manageable
up a ladder than a petrol-driven one, but I would welcome any
experienced advice on chainsaws in general, electric ones in particular,
and brands. I'd also quite like to know how *small* a diameter of branch
it's feasible to cut with one.

Thanks,

brian mitchell

I have a Bosch (40-18S)


I looked it up. It looks good, and the sort of thing I had in mind.

I am not keen on using it off the
ground...


Because these are planted so close together (I can only just squeeze
between them, and I'm thin) and the branches are so interlocked, I
thought it might help with the controllability if I took off some of the
larger lower branches first.

be a good idea to get someone to control
the tree coming down with a rope.


I agree, but there is a strip of land to the other side, away from the
house, to aim them into, so if I choose a windless day...

Thanks.

brian mitchell
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Old 09-12-2009, 10:33 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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"Brian Mitchell" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have a line of leylandii very close to the house (like, seven
feet)
which I need to fell and then reduce. I presume this is a
supposed hedge
that got out of control and the average size is now 20+ feet
high and
10" diameter (chest height).

I'm thinking of getting an electric chainsaw for this, since
the job is
close to the house and I think an electric one might be more
manageable
up a ladder than a petrol-driven one, but I would welcome any
experienced advice on chainsaws in general, electric ones in
particular,
and brands. I'd also quite like to know how *small* a diameter
of branch
it's feasible to cut with one.


I use one I bought from B&Q about 10 years ago. Its on its third
chain and still working well. I have cut down large leylandii
with it and found the best method is to cut off as many branches
as you can reach from the ground first. Then cut the tree at
waist level, before trimming off the remaining branches. Cutting
them down is the easy bit, its clearing up afterwards that's hard
work.

Mike





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Old 09-12-2009, 10:35 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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wrote in message
...

You're bonkers. Get a 30" bow saw, and you will be vastly less
likely to cut your own arms, legs and short arm off by
accident.
There is no problem with that diameter with that size of bow
saw.
It's also a hell of a lot cheaper, needs negligible maintenance
and takes up less space.


And is bloody hard work. Go for the chainsaw, you know you want
to...

Mike


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Old 09-12-2009, 10:49 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Rusty Hinge writes:

Hmmm. Firewood!


Yes. Do they burn well?

Back in the late 1950s we (Emerson Park Tree Felling Company) used a 36"
Pioneer - up trees in excess of 150 ft...


Heroic! I was thinking in terms of a 16" about 9 or 10ft up at the most.
The folk who come by to trim around the power lines seem to swing about
quite happily with largeish petrol driven machines in hand. No doubt
they're trained.

Elfin Safety'd have a fit now! Nor did we have leggings, jackets,
helmets, etc. Goggles and leather gloves, ropes, tackle and so-on, yes.


I don't think these handy accesories are de rigeur if you are using a
power saw on your own property, yourself...


I have a lot of that stuff. Not leggings, though. Are they sexy, like chaps?

brian mitchell
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:39 AM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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"Brian Mitchell" wrote in message
...
Rusty Hinge writes:

Hmmm. Firewood!


Yes. Do they burn well?

Back in the late 1950s we (Emerson Park Tree Felling Company) used a 36"
Pioneer - up trees in excess of 150 ft...


Heroic! I was thinking in terms of a 16" about 9 or 10ft up at the most.
The folk who come by to trim around the power lines seem to swing about
quite happily with largeish petrol driven machines in hand. No doubt
they're trained.

Elfin Safety'd have a fit now! Nor did we have leggings, jackets,
helmets, etc. Goggles and leather gloves, ropes, tackle and so-on, yes.


I don't think these handy accesories are de rigeur if you are using a
power saw on your own property, yourself...


I have a lot of that stuff. Not leggings, though. Are they sexy, like
chaps?



There's a variety of advice here, and so far mostly good and sound.

Plan A

What *you* do on your own property with a chainsaw in hand at height won't
directly break any reg's (As you aren't a contractor) but given your
inexperience do you *really* want to leap around on a ladder with a running
leg removal tool ?

Go to a hire shop, a proper one, ask advice about hiring a saw AND the
relevant safety kit.
This "should" consist of a hard hat, with (built in usually), ear defenders,
gloves, and suitable "Ballistic" lined coat and trousers.

The coat and trousers are lined with Kevlar strands. This is the stopper for
the chain BEFORE it gets to your skin, designed to block the machine with
strands of shredded fibre and stall it.

Believe me, it works ! (I still have the *tiniest* of lines on my thigh to
prove what happens when you trip as a saw is powering DOWN and off power and
you land across it) Chain brakes MUST be used BEFORE you move, I learned on
my course the following week !

Plan B

Get a man in!
Seriously it is worth doing right and he may suggest just topping the
conifers to leave an all important wind-break.

Logs from Leylandii spit like f**k when still wet, smell nice, leave a tarry
residue and can in some burners leave ignitable tarry deposits up the flue
resulting in at a later date a lovely fire up the chimney which can warm the
place to the ground!


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