Hi all

I've had an heater in my (UK, NW region) polytunnel over a week now, that
fluctuates from 6 - 11 degrees C. My first seedlings are a week old and was
wondering if anyone could give advice on what best to do from now on. From
what I've read I'm letting the seeds germinate in my diy heated propagator,
removing them to the opposite bench without lids and giving them a couple of
extra hours artificial light (5-6am / 6-8pm)

a) Do I now transplant them to individual pots or leave them a little
longer??

b) Maybe you could give scenarios on what your procedure would be with my
set up. I'm sure this would help me a lot.

c) Do's n Don'ts.

I'm a complete newbie to this and would greatly appreciate some help from
the group from your experience...See below images.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ymakerToms.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...hireOnions.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...undCabbage.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...9janpoly11.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...9janpoly10.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...29janpoly6.jpg

Regards
p.mc

"p.mc" wrote in message
...

Hi all

I've had an heater in my (UK, NW region) polytunnel over a week now, that
fluctuates from 6 - 11 degrees C. My first seedlings are a week old and
was wondering if anyone could give advice on what best to do from now on.
From what I've read I'm letting the seeds germinate in my diy heated
propagator, removing them to the opposite bench without lids and giving
them a couple of extra hours artificial light (5-6am / 6-8pm)

a) Do I now transplant them to individual pots or leave them a little
longer??

b) Maybe you could give scenarios on what your procedure would be with my
set up. I'm sure this would help me a lot.

c) Do's n Don'ts.

I'm a complete newbie to this and would greatly appreciate some help from
the group from your experience...See below images.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ymakerToms.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...hireOnions.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...undCabbage.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...9janpoly11.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...9janpoly10.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...29janpoly6.jpg

Regards
p.mc

Great set of photos p.mc, but may I suggest the photo site I use? It allows
you to put photos into an 'album' on a subject and you just flick from photo
to photo. Here is one I did very recently on a Leylandii hedge
http://www.myalbum.com/Album=AYZGNMW6 and here is another one when I was
invited to the Bridge as Aurora, the P&O Cruise Liner, was making her way up
the Fjord to Olden http://www.myalbum.com/Album=NHADFEBU and as you can see,
on the left are comments.

Quite free and easy to use :-))

Mike

--

....................................
Don't take life too seriously, you'll never get out alive
....................................

"'Mike'" wrote in message news


"p.mc" wrote in message
...

Hi all

I've had an heater in my (UK, NW region) polytunnel over a week now, that
fluctuates from 6 - 11 degrees C. My first seedlings are a week old and
was wondering if anyone could give advice on what best to do from now on.
From what I've read I'm letting the seeds germinate in my diy heated
propagator, removing them to the opposite bench without lids and giving
them a couple of extra hours artificial light (5-6am / 6-8pm)

a) Do I now transplant them to individual pots or leave them a little
longer??

b) Maybe you could give scenarios on what your procedure would be with my
set up. I'm sure this would help me a lot.

c) Do's n Don'ts.

I'm a complete newbie to this and would greatly appreciate some help from
the group from your experience...See below images.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ymakerToms.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...hireOnions.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...undCabbage.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...9janpoly11.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...9janpoly10.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...29janpoly6.jpg

Regards
p.mc

Great set of photos p.mc, but may I suggest the photo site I use? It allows
you to put photos into an 'album' on a subject and you just flick from photo
to photo. Here is one I did very recently on a Leylandii hedge
http://www.myalbum.com/Album=AYZGNMW6 and here is another one when I was
invited to the Bridge as Aurora, the P&O Cruise Liner, was making her way up
the Fjord to Olden http://www.myalbum.com/Album=NHADFEBU and as you can see,
on the left are comments.

Quite free and easy to use :-))

Mike

--

....................................
Don't take life too seriously, you'll never get out alive
....................................


Thanks Chris & Mike, I've immediately set my timers on the lights for 16hrs
a day (6am-10pm)

I got a real bargain on the lights at B&Q. They were in the damaged or
missing parts section...over £100 saving!
The tubes were already in the fittings and 20 Watts each. The three over my
D.I.Y heated propagator are T5s, and the
two on the sink top are T4s which are apparently more effective, I hope the
wattage is adequate.
Unfortunately the netting is woven inside the plastic, so not much I can do
about that.



Regards
p.mc

"p.mc" wrote in message
...
"'Mike'" wrote in message news


"p.mc" wrote in message
...

Hi all

I've had an heater in my (UK, NW region) polytunnel over a week now, that
fluctuates from 6 - 11 degrees C. My first seedlings are a week old and
was wondering if anyone could give advice on what best to do from now on.
From what I've read I'm letting the seeds germinate in my diy heated
propagator, removing them to the opposite bench without lids and giving
them a couple of extra hours artificial light (5-6am / 6-8pm)

a) Do I now transplant them to individual pots or leave them a little
longer??

b) Maybe you could give scenarios on what your procedure would be with my
set up. I'm sure this would help me a lot.

c) Do's n Don'ts.

I'm a complete newbie to this and would greatly appreciate some help from
the group from your experience...See below images.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ymakerToms.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...hireOnions.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...undCabbage.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...9janpoly11.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...9janpoly10.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...29janpoly6.jpg

Regards
p.mc

Great set of photos p.mc, but may I suggest the photo site I use? It
allows
you to put photos into an 'album' on a subject and you just flick from
photo
to photo. Here is one I did very recently on a Leylandii hedge
http://www.myalbum.com/Album=AYZGNMW6 and here is another one when I was
invited to the Bridge as Aurora, the P&O Cruise Liner, was making her way
up
the Fjord to Olden http://www.myalbum.com/Album=NHADFEBU and as you can
see,
on the left are comments.

Quite free and easy to use :-))

Mike

--

...................................
Don't take life too seriously, you'll never get out alive
...................................


Thanks Chris & Mike, I've immediately set my timers on the lights for
16hrs a day (6am-10pm)

I got a real bargain on the lights at B&Q. They were in the damaged or
missing parts section...over £100 saving!
The tubes were already in the fittings and 20 Watts each. The three over
my D.I.Y heated propagator are T5s, and the
two on the sink top are T4s which are apparently more effective, I hope
the wattage is adequate.
Unfortunately the netting is woven inside the plastic, so not much I can
do about that.



Regards
p.mc

B&Q Bargain :-))

The Gazebo here was dirt cheap because one of the principle bits of plastic
joints was broken. How much to replace? £7.00 :-))

http://www.myalbum.com/Album=WFNEFS7L

Mike

--

....................................
Don't take life too seriously, you'll never get out alive
....................................

On 29/01/2011 22:49, p.mc wrote:

Hi all

I've had an heater in my (UK, NW region) polytunnel over a week now,
that fluctuates from 6 - 11 degrees C. My first seedlings are a week old
and was wondering if anyone could give advice on what best to do from
now on. From what I've read I'm letting the seeds germinate in my diy
heated propagator, removing them to the opposite bench without lids and
giving them a couple of extra hours artificial light (5-6am / 6-8pm)

a) Do I now transplant them to individual pots or leave them a little
longer??

b) Maybe you could give scenarios on what your procedure would be with
my set up. I'm sure this would help me a lot.

c) Do's n Don'ts.

I'm a complete newbie to this and would greatly appreciate some help
from the group from your experience...See below images.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ymakerToms.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...hireOnions.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...undCabbage.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...9janpoly11.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...9janpoly10.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...29janpoly6.jpg


Regards
p.mc

I think that you will find that you will find the light level from
standard strip fluorescent lamps is inadequate once the plants are out
of the seedling stage (ie more than 3 or 4 cm high). Not only that, but
although it may not seem apparent, these lamps produce heat as well as
light, and in close proximity to the plants that will have an effect.

Standard fluorescent lights produce 50 - 100 lumens per watt. If you
look at the link Chris Hogg gave, and get details on the Grolux lamps,
you'll see that these 400w lamps are rated at 58000 lumens (ie around
150 lumens per watt). They also produce a fair amount of heat, but as
they are usually at least a metre above the plants, that is not so much
of a problem.

I think you will find that it is not cost-effective for the amateur to
use artificial lighting to raise seedlings. If it was, we'd all have
been doing it for years.

--

Jeff

On 01/02/2011 00:58, p.mc wrote:
"Jeff Layman" wrote in message ...
(snip)

I think that you will find that you will find the light level from
standard strip fluorescent lamps is inadequate once the plants are out
of the seedling stage (ie more than 3 or 4 cm high). Not only that, but
although it may not seem apparent, these lamps produce heat as well as
light, and in close proximity to the plants that will have an effect.

Standard fluorescent lights produce 50 - 100 lumens per watt. If you
look at the link Chris Hogg gave, and get details on the Grolux lamps,
you'll see that these 400w lamps are rated at 58000 lumens (ie around
150 lumens per watt). They also produce a fair amount of heat, but as
they are usually at least a metre above the plants, that is not so much
of a problem.

I think you will find that it is not cost-effective for the amateur to
use artificial lighting to raise seedlings. If it was, we'd all have
been doing it for years.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++

Hi Jeff

I suppose it should be called supplementary lighting when in a
greenhouse (not dark basement/garage). Although I now have them on for
16hrs a day, the seedlings also receive the natural light available for
this time of year in my cool greenhouse (11 degrees C at night.) And
the artificial light provides a few more hours of light at this time of
year (1st Feb). I suppose it's about trying to emulate the weather
conditions a couple of months ahead of time where the days are longer
and the nights warmer.

I'm not growing orchids or tropical plants so I don't see the need for
the overpriced cannabis jobs. The T5 tubes give off very little heat at
all and can be almost on top of the seedlings without a problem, at
least mine are ok, and I'm sure if they were too hot they would have
perished by now.

I've read quite a bit on this now and the general advice from pro's &
amateurs' is 40W tubes (T5s are better, but T8s suffice if not growing
tropical), 16hrs a day close to seedlings.

One question though. Are you saying I should remove the 3/4cm seedlings
from under the lights at that stage; or carry on giving the
supplementary light; does that mean at that height they will still grow at
the same rate without it?

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++

Firstly, as you are using Windows Live Mail V15 I have had to paste copy
and paste your reply as WLM does not deal correctly with previous
replies (your post appears as though it is a continuation of my
signature! My newsreader - and all others - strip signatures from
replies, so everything you have written in reply to my post gets lost
when I reply). I have therefore quoted your reply above between the
++++ lines.

As to whether or not you remove the seedlings, well, you can always do a
trial if you have enough seedlings - just put half under the lights and
half outside in natural light and see what the difference is!

Seedlings with only their cotyledons (first leaves) will not need
intense light. These "seed" leaves are really there to get the seedling
going after it has germinated. It is the true leaves which are the
factory driving the plant's growth. These will respond to good light.
The problem is that fluorescent lights will work for a few cm, but
after this the light level dies away quickly. So as the plants grow,
and you have to move the lights up to accommodate the growth, the top
leaves will get the intense light, but the lower ones won't.

If you want to look at the science behind these light levels, see
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lux. The bottom of the table in the
Explanation section and the second paragraph in the next section (Lux vs
Lumen) show the difference between sunlight and fluorescent light.

Please let us know how you get on if you do have enough seedlings to
split between supplementary lighting and just daylight.

--

Jeff

"Jeff Layman" wrote in message ...

On 01/02/2011 00:58, p.mc wrote:
"Jeff Layman" wrote in message ...
(snip)

I think that you will find that you will find the light level from
standard strip fluorescent lamps is inadequate once the plants are out
of the seedling stage (ie more than 3 or 4 cm high). Not only that, but
although it may not seem apparent, these lamps produce heat as well as
light, and in close proximity to the plants that will have an effect.

Standard fluorescent lights produce 50 - 100 lumens per watt. If you
look at the link Chris Hogg gave, and get details on the Grolux lamps,
you'll see that these 400w lamps are rated at 58000 lumens (ie around
150 lumens per watt). They also produce a fair amount of heat, but as
they are usually at least a metre above the plants, that is not so much
of a problem.

I think you will find that it is not cost-effective for the amateur to
use artificial lighting to raise seedlings. If it was, we'd all have
been doing it for years.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++
original poster
Hi Jeff

I suppose it should be called supplementary lighting when in a
greenhouse (not dark basement/garage). Although I now have them on for
16hrs a day, the seedlings also receive the natural light available for
this time of year in my cool greenhouse (11 degrees C at night.) And
the artificial light provides a few more hours of light at this time of
year (1st Feb). I suppose it's about trying to emulate the weather
conditions a couple of months ahead of time where the days are longer
and the nights warmer.

I'm not growing orchids or tropical plants so I don't see the need for
the overpriced cannabis jobs. The T5 tubes give off very little heat at
all and can be almost on top of the seedlings without a problem, at
least mine are ok, and I'm sure if they were too hot they would have
perished by now.

I've read quite a bit on this now and the general advice from pro's &
amateurs' is 40W tubes (T5s are better, but T8s suffice if not growing
tropical), 16hrs a day close to seedlings.

One question though. Are you saying I should remove the 3/4cm seedlings
from under the lights at that stage; or carry on giving the
supplementary light; does that mean at that height they will still grow at
the same rate without it?

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++
Reply
Firstly, as you are using Windows Live Mail V15 I have had to paste copy
and paste your reply as WLM does not deal correctly with previous
replies (your post appears as though it is a continuation of my
signature! My newsreader - and all others - strip signatures from
replies, so everything you have written in reply to my post gets lost
when I reply). I have therefore quoted your reply above between the
++++ lines.

As to whether or not you remove the seedlings, well, you can always do a
trial if you have enough seedlings - just put half under the lights and
half outside in natural light and see what the difference is!

Seedlings with only their cotyledons (first leaves) will not need
intense light. These "seed" leaves are really there to get the seedling
going after it has germinated. It is the true leaves which are the
factory driving the plant's growth. These will respond to good light.
The problem is that fluorescent lights will work for a few cm, but
after this the light level dies away quickly. So as the plants grow,
and you have to move the lights up to accommodate the growth, the top
leaves will get the intense light, but the lower ones won't.

If you want to look at the science behind these light levels, see
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lux. The bottom of the table in the
Explanation section and the second paragraph in the next section (Lux vs
Lumen) show the difference between sunlight and fluorescent light.

Please let us know how you get on if you do have enough seedlings to
split between supplementary lighting and just daylight.

--

Jeff

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++

Original poster reply

Hi Jeff

Sorry about the reply palaver. I noticed that myself with this mail prog
(WLMail). I use OE6 on my main machine, but I'm posting on my Win7 lappy,
which requires you to use a different mail prog other than OE.
Anyhow thanks for the reply. I had read all the science before, but on
further reading as I said some armatures & pro's were stating my above
method as how to do it! It is a bit of a of a contradiction, but I suppose
you go with what's more affordable. To be honest, if someone said.."Don't
bother they'll grow exactly the same without the lights even at this time of
year" (1st Feb) I would be a happy bunny. But is that the case or not?

My Polytunnel has a mesh woven into it which partially restricts the natural
light available, and also you can't depend on nice long sunny days until my
last frost date. I suppose an answer to "is this the case or not" would help
a lot.


Regards
p.mc
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++

"p.mc" wrote in message ...

"Jeff Layman" wrote in message ...

On 01/02/2011 00:58, p.mc wrote:
"Jeff Layman" wrote in message ...
(snip)

I think that you will find that you will find the light level from
standard strip fluorescent lamps is inadequate once the plants are out
of the seedling stage (ie more than 3 or 4 cm high). Not only that, but
although it may not seem apparent, these lamps produce heat as well as
light, and in close proximity to the plants that will have an effect.

Standard fluorescent lights produce 50 - 100 lumens per watt. If you
look at the link Chris Hogg gave, and get details on the Grolux lamps,
you'll see that these 400w lamps are rated at 58000 lumens (ie around
150 lumens per watt). They also produce a fair amount of heat, but as
they are usually at least a metre above the plants, that is not so much
of a problem.

I think you will find that it is not cost-effective for the amateur to
use artificial lighting to raise seedlings. If it was, we'd all have
been doing it for years.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++
original poster
Hi Jeff

I suppose it should be called supplementary lighting when in a
greenhouse (not dark basement/garage). Although I now have them on for
16hrs a day, the seedlings also receive the natural light available for
this time of year in my cool greenhouse (11 degrees C at night.) And
the artificial light provides a few more hours of light at this time of
year (1st Feb). I suppose it's about trying to emulate the weather
conditions a couple of months ahead of time where the days are longer
and the nights warmer.

I'm not growing orchids or tropical plants so I don't see the need for
the overpriced cannabis jobs. The T5 tubes give off very little heat at
all and can be almost on top of the seedlings without a problem, at
least mine are ok, and I'm sure if they were too hot they would have
perished by now.

I've read quite a bit on this now and the general advice from pro's &
amateurs' is 40W tubes (T5s are better, but T8s suffice if not growing
tropical), 16hrs a day close to seedlings.

One question though. Are you saying I should remove the 3/4cm seedlings
from under the lights at that stage; or carry on giving the
supplementary light; does that mean at that height they will still grow at
the same rate without it?

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++
Reply
Firstly, as you are using Windows Live Mail V15 I have had to paste copy
and paste your reply as WLM does not deal correctly with previous
replies (your post appears as though it is a continuation of my
signature! My newsreader - and all others - strip signatures from
replies, so everything you have written in reply to my post gets lost
when I reply). I have therefore quoted your reply above between the
++++ lines.

As to whether or not you remove the seedlings, well, you can always do a
trial if you have enough seedlings - just put half under the lights and
half outside in natural light and see what the difference is!

Seedlings with only their cotyledons (first leaves) will not need
intense light. These "seed" leaves are really there to get the seedling
going after it has germinated. It is the true leaves which are the
factory driving the plant's growth. These will respond to good light.
The problem is that fluorescent lights will work for a few cm, but
after this the light level dies away quickly. So as the plants grow,
and you have to move the lights up to accommodate the growth, the top
leaves will get the intense light, but the lower ones won't.

If you want to look at the science behind these light levels, see
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lux. The bottom of the table in the
Explanation section and the second paragraph in the next section (Lux vs
Lumen) show the difference between sunlight and fluorescent light.

Please let us know how you get on if you do have enough seedlings to
split between supplementary lighting and just daylight.

--

Jeff

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++

Original poster reply

Hi Jeff

Sorry about the reply palaver. I noticed that myself with this mail prog
(WLMail). I use OE6 on my main machine, but I'm posting on my Win7 lappy,
which requires you to use a different mail prog other than OE.
Anyhow thanks for the reply. I had read all the science before, but on
further reading as I said some armatures & pro's were stating my above
method as how to do it! It is a bit of a of a contradiction, but I suppose
you go with what's more affordable. To be honest, if someone said.."Don't
bother they'll grow exactly the same without the lights even at this time of
year" (1st Feb) I would be a happy bunny. But is that the case or not?

My Polytunnel has a mesh woven into it which partially restricts the natural
light available, and also you can't depend on nice long sunny days until my
last frost date. I suppose an answer to "is this the case or not" would help
a lot.


Regards
p.mc
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++

Few Images below... All made from skip dived pallets,sink top except
electrical parts.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014860.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014858.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014857.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014856.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014854.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014850.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014847.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014845.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014842.jpg




Regards
p.mc
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

On 01/02/2011 13:46, p.mc wrote:
Hi Jeff

Sorry about the reply palaver. I noticed that myself with this mail prog
(WLMail). I use OE6 on my main machine, but I'm posting on my Win7 lappy,
which requires you to use a different mail prog other than OE.
Anyhow thanks for the reply. I had read all the science before, but on
further reading as I said some armatures & pro's were stating my above
method as how to do it! It is a bit of a of a contradiction, but I suppose
you go with what's more affordable. To be honest, if someone said.."Don't
bother they'll grow exactly the same without the lights even at this
time of
year" (1st Feb) I would be a happy bunny. But is that the case or not?

My Polytunnel has a mesh woven into it which partially restricts the
natural
light available, and also you can't depend on nice long sunny days until my
last frost date. I suppose an answer to "is this the case or not" would
help
a lot.


Regards
p.mc
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++

Few Images below... All made from skip dived pallets,sink top except
electrical parts.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014860.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014858.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014857.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014856.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014854.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014850.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014847.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014845.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014842.jpg




Regards
p.mc
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

With that amount of shading from the mesh the lights will definitely
help, even if IMHO that's only for a short time.

If you can get a plug-in energy meter on the supply to the lights only,
it would be very interesting to see how many kilowatt-hours they use
over the period you use them for.

Finally, can you bottle that look in the first picture which screams
"I'm adorable but about to be extremely naughty!"!!!!

--

Jeff

"Jeff Layman" wrote in message ...

On 01/02/2011 13:46, p.mc wrote:
Hi Jeff

Sorry about the reply palaver. I noticed that myself with this mail prog
(WLMail). I use OE6 on my main machine, but I'm posting on my Win7 lappy,
which requires you to use a different mail prog other than OE.
Anyhow thanks for the reply. I had read all the science before, but on
further reading as I said some armatures & pro's were stating my above
method as how to do it! It is a bit of a of a contradiction, but I suppose
you go with what's more affordable. To be honest, if someone said.."Don't
bother they'll grow exactly the same without the lights even at this
time of
year" (1st Feb) I would be a happy bunny. But is that the case or not?

My Polytunnel has a mesh woven into it which partially restricts the
natural
light available, and also you can't depend on nice long sunny days until
my
last frost date. I suppose an answer to "is this the case or not" would
help
a lot.


Regards
p.mc
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++

Few Images below... All made from skip dived pallets,sink top except
electrical parts.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014860.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014858.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014857.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014856.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014854.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014850.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014847.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014845.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...l/P2014842.jpg




Regards
p.mc
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Reply

With that amount of shading from the mesh the lights will definitely
help, even if IMHO that's only for a short time.

If you can get a plug-in energy meter on the supply to the lights only,
it would be very interesting to see how many kilowatt-hours they use
over the period you use them for.

Finally, can you bottle that look in the first picture which screams
"I'm adorable but about to be extremely naughty!"!!!!

--

Jeff
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


"You're not wrong there Jeff"...I usually get that look after stepping
barefoot on a brown present at the foot of the stairs.

One more thing though. I've read that you re-pot seedlings in Potting or
multi purpose compost when their "first two leaves" appear, and also read
when their first "true leaves" grow!
Which is it?...I'd prefer to leave it until the "true leaves" appear
personally, but do they need the extra nutrients in potting or multi purpose
compost at the first two leaves stage?

BTW the combined wattage of the lamps is 5 x 30 = 150 Watts.

Regards
p.mc

Showed these pics to my resident oligochaetologist, also a pallet enthusiast, and he wondered how well the thermostat on the propagator worked in that position. He would have put it in the centre of the side, and wondered whetehr putting it at the end meant that the centre was warmer than the thermostat temperature.

"kay" wrote in message ...


'p.mc[_3_ Wrote:
;911800']


Few Images below... All made from skip dived pallets,sink top except
electrical parts.


Showed these pics to my resident oligochaetologist, also a pallet
enthusiast, and he wondered how well the thermostat on the propagator
worked in that position. He would have put it in the centre of the side,
and wondered whetehr putting it at the end meant that the centre was
warmer than the thermostat temperature.




--
kay
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Hi Kay

The warming cable is laid flat on a 2 inch bed of level damp sharp sand in a
parallel snake pattern. Then the rod of the thermostat is laid in-between
the the first two runs of the cable, and 2 more inches of sand is then laid
on top and levelled again. I made sure that all cabling and side panels
were equidistant from each other. This means It only needs to radiate
sideways heat 1.5 inches either side of any cable position to register the
correct temp anywhere.

The box is also lined with plastic and perfectly level so the moisture
should be spread evenly with no dry areas and dissipating the heat evenly.


Regards
p.mc