Having read the "didn't know they grew in this country" thread - it
occurs to me to ask.

There's a wall at one side of my garden which has a young, sick ash
tree. Unless some miracle happens and it looks all healthy the rest of
the year I'm going to rung bark it late in the season - which will give
me a west facing wall, sheltered by next door's house 10ft behind, which
seems to me to be a nice place to put an espalier.

Suggestions?

I'm thinking of a Sturmer Pippin apple, as they are local

Andy

On 14/07/2014 21:51, Vir Campestris wrote:
Having read the "didn't know they grew in this country" thread - it
occurs to me to ask.

There's a wall at one side of my garden which has a young, sick ash
tree. Unless some miracle happens and it looks all healthy the rest of
the year I'm going to rung bark it late in the season - which will give
me a west facing wall, sheltered by next door's house 10ft behind, which
seems to me to be a nice place to put an espalier.

Suggestions?

I'm thinking of a Sturmer Pippin apple, as they are local

Andy

If it's young what are the chances of digging it out?

On 2014-07-14 21:33:11 +0000, David Hill said:

On 14/07/2014 21:51, Vir Campestris wrote:
Having read the "didn't know they grew in this country" thread - it
occurs to me to ask.

There's a wall at one side of my garden which has a young, sick ash
tree. Unless some miracle happens and it looks all healthy the rest of
the year I'm going to rung bark it late in the season - which will give
me a west facing wall, sheltered by next door's house 10ft behind, which
seems to me to be a nice place to put an espalier.

Suggestions?

I'm thinking of a Sturmer Pippin apple, as they are local

Andy

If it's young what are the chances of digging it out?

And an ash tree strikes me as a strange tree to have against a garden
wall. They're forest trees, potentially enormous and I'd have thought
the root system may well do damage to the wall? I know I had one about
12' from my house removed as it was thought it might damage the house
foundations.
--

Sacha
www.hillhousenursery.com
South Devon
www.helpforheroes.org.uk

In article ,
lid says...

There's a wall at one side of my garden which has a young, sick ash
tree. Unless some miracle happens and it looks all healthy the rest of
the year I'm going to rung bark it late in the season - which will give
me a west facing wall,

IME ringbarking doesn't kill ash. More likely it will give you a multi stemmed
coppiced ash tree. If it's too big to dig out (without destabilising the wall) I
suggest saw it to a stump, drill holes and apply a stump killer.

I'd certainly get it out even if it looks healthy, because ash rapidly make very
large trees and their roots can mess with walls.

Janet

"Sacha" wrote in message
...
On 2014-07-14 21:33:11 +0000, David Hill said:

On 14/07/2014 21:51, Vir Campestris wrote:
Having read the "didn't know they grew in this country" thread - it
occurs to me to ask.

There's a wall at one side of my garden which has a young, sick ash
tree. Unless some miracle happens and it looks all healthy the rest of
the year I'm going to rung bark it late in the season - which will give
me a west facing wall, sheltered by next door's house 10ft behind, which
seems to me to be a nice place to put an espalier.

Suggestions?

I'm thinking of a Sturmer Pippin apple, as they are local

Andy

If it's young what are the chances of digging it out?

And an ash tree strikes me as a strange tree to have against a garden
wall. They're forest trees, potentially enormous and I'd have thought the
root system may well do damage to the wall? I know I had one about 12'
from my house removed as it was thought it might damage the house
foundations.
--

Sacha
If its ash it is unlikely to have been planted deliberately, damn things
come up everywhere, sounds as if it may have Ash die back, I wouldn't be
shedding any tears!

--
Charlie, Gardening in Cornwall
Holders of National Collections of Clematis viticella
and Lapageria rosea cvs
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk

In article ,
janet wrote:
In article ,
says...

There's a wall at one side of my garden which has a young, sick ash
tree. Unless some miracle happens and it looks all healthy the rest of
the year I'm going to rung bark it late in the season - which will give
me a west facing wall,

IME ringbarking doesn't kill ash. More likely it will give you a multi stemmed
coppiced ash tree. If it's too big to dig out (without destabilising the wall) I
suggest saw it to a stump, drill holes and apply a stump killer.

I'd certainly get it out even if it looks healthy, because ash rapidly make very
large trees and their roots can mess with walls.

Right. You can kill them by removing the shoots every year, but
it will take a good many years.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

On 14/07/2014 21:51, Vir Campestris wrote:
Having read the "didn't know they grew in this country" thread - it
occurs to me to ask.

There's a wall at one side of my garden which has a young, sick ash
tree. Unless some miracle happens and it looks all healthy the rest of
the year I'm going to rung bark it late in the season - which will give
me a west facing wall, sheltered by next door's house 10ft behind, which
seems to me to be a nice place to put an espalier.

Suggestions?

I'm thinking of a Sturmer Pippin apple, as they are local

I would first ask why such a vigorous tree as an ash is sick. OK, it
could be ash dieback, and that would explain it. If not, is there
something in the soil which is slowly killing it? Are other plants
around it ok?

If it is just that the soil is poor quality and dryish, then maybe a
grapevine would grow fairly well against the wall. Or you could dig out
the poor soil and put something decent in.

--

Jeff

On 15/07/2014 16:21, Jeff Layman wrote:
I would first ask why such a vigorous tree as an ash is sick. OK, it
could be ash dieback, and that would explain it. If not, is there
something in the soil which is slowly killing it? Are other plants
around it ok?

It's Chalara. The tree looks fine at the moment, but the back end of
last year it looked really bad.

The stuff around it is growing fine. Far better than it ever did in our
old garden, which was on Bagshot sand.

The trunk is about 6 inches diameter, its about 2ft from the wall, and
about 20ft from next door's house. Given some of the other comments I'll
kill it anyway (ringbarking when in leaf will help dry the timber for
the fire).

Now - stump killer. I can't use sodium chlorate any more... so what
should I use?

Andy

On 15/07/2014 20:59, Vir Campestris wrote:

It's Chalara. The tree looks fine at the moment, but the back end of
last year it looked really bad.

That's a pity. Are there any others in the area showing signs of infection?

The stuff around it is growing fine. Far better than it ever did in our
old garden, which was on Bagshot sand.

The trunk is about 6 inches diameter, its about 2ft from the wall, and
about 20ft from next door's house. Given some of the other comments I'll
kill it anyway (ringbarking when in leaf will help dry the timber for
the fire).

Now - stump killer. I can't use sodium chlorate any more... so what
should I use?

Not a great choice, really - glyphosate or triclopyr
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=229#section-4

--

Jeff

On 15/07/2014 22:15, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 15/07/2014 20:59, Vir Campestris wrote:

It's Chalara. The tree looks fine at the moment, but the back end of
last year it looked really bad.

That's a pity. Are there any others in the area showing signs of infection?

The stuff around it is growing fine. Far better than it ever did in our
old garden, which was on Bagshot sand.

The trunk is about 6 inches diameter, its about 2ft from the wall, and
about 20ft from next door's house. Given some of the other comments I'll
kill it anyway (ringbarking when in leaf will help dry the timber for
the fire).

Now - stump killer. I can't use sodium chlorate any more... so what
should I use?

Not a great choice, really - glyphosate or triclopyr
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=229#section-4

http://www.ehow.com/how_5686944_remo...m-nitrate.html

On 2014-07-15 21:32:24 +0000, David Hill said:

On 15/07/2014 22:15, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 15/07/2014 20:59, Vir Campestris wrote:

It's Chalara. The tree looks fine at the moment, but the back end of
last year it looked really bad.

That's a pity. Are there any others in the area showing signs of infection?

The stuff around it is growing fine. Far better than it ever did in our
old garden, which was on Bagshot sand.

The trunk is about 6 inches diameter, its about 2ft from the wall, and
about 20ft from next door's house. Given some of the other comments I'll
kill it anyway (ringbarking when in leaf will help dry the timber for
the fire).

Now - stump killer. I can't use sodium chlorate any more... so what
should I use?

Not a great choice, really - glyphosate or triclopyr
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=229#section-4

http://www.ehow.com/how_5686944_remo...m-nitrate.html

Stump grinder? More expensive but quick,ime.
--
Sacha
www.hillhousenursery.com
South Devon

On 15/07/2014 22:32, David Hill wrote:
On 15/07/2014 22:15, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 15/07/2014 20:59, Vir Campestris wrote:

It's Chalara. The tree looks fine at the moment, but the back end of
last year it looked really bad.

That's a pity. Are there any others in the area showing signs of infection?

The stuff around it is growing fine. Far better than it ever did in our
old garden, which was on Bagshot sand.

The trunk is about 6 inches diameter, its about 2ft from the wall, and
about 20ft from next door's house. Given some of the other comments I'll
kill it anyway (ringbarking when in leaf will help dry the timber for
the fire).

Now - stump killer. I can't use sodium chlorate any more... so what
should I use?

Not a great choice, really - glyphosate or triclopyr
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=229#section-4

http://www.ehow.com/how_5686944_remo...m-nitrate.html

I'm fairly certain that it's probably illegal to use potassium nitrate
as a stump killer under pesticides legislation. Not so sure if the
stump is already dead, though, and you are using it to accelerate
decomposition. However, I doubt the claim in that link that the stump
will be removable in 4 - 6 weeks. This is from
http://www.acorntreestump.com/pdf_fi...%20methods.pdf :

"Many traditional products used to accelerate the degradation and decay
of stumps contain concentrated salts to dry the stump for burning,
attempt to infuse the stumps with potassium nitrate (saltpeter) to
assist with burning, contain alkalis or sulfiting agents used to break
down lignin, or contain enzymes which weaken wood cell walls. Many of
these materials or formulations have been used in one form or another
over many years. Few show any acceleration of decay in the short term.
At the recommended application rates, many products are damaging to
decay fungi. Over the long run, most products which increase nitrogen
in the wood and decrease the C:N ratio around the stump will accelerate
the wood decay process."

Also, it wouldn't be as cheap as using commercial stump killer. If you
drilled 8 or 10 holes as suggested, you would need at least a kilogram
of potassium nitrate to fill them. That would probably cost around £8
plus carriage.

--

Jeff

In article ,
Jeff Layman wrote:

I'm fairly certain that it's probably illegal to use potassium nitrate
as a stump killer under pesticides legislation. Not so sure if the
stump is already dead, though, and you are using it to accelerate
decomposition. However, I doubt the claim in that link that the stump
will be removable in 4 - 6 weeks. This is from
http://www.acorntreestump.com/pdf_fi...%20methods.pdf :

"Many traditional products used to accelerate the degradation and decay
of stumps contain concentrated salts to dry the stump for burning,
attempt to infuse the stumps with potassium nitrate (saltpeter) to
assist with burning, contain alkalis or sulfiting agents used to break
down lignin, or contain enzymes which weaken wood cell walls. Many of
these materials or formulations have been used in one form or another
over many years. Few show any acceleration of decay in the short term.
At the recommended application rates, many products are damaging to
decay fungi. Over the long run, most products which increase nitrogen
in the wood and decrease the C:N ratio around the stump will accelerate
the wood decay process."

All together now: so **** on it!

Also, it wouldn't be as cheap as using commercial stump killer. If you
drilled 8 or 10 holes as suggested, you would need at least a kilogram
of potassium nitrate to fill them. That would probably cost around £8
plus carriage.

Plus ordering potassium nitrate might get you tried, convicted and
locked up, without being given a chance to explain.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

On 16/07/2014 14:38, Nick Maclaren wrote:
All together now: so **** on it!

Not even if it was on fire

-
regards andy