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[IBC] Juniper Gall question
I was thinning my Pro. Nana Juniper cascade and I noticed, buried in the poofy overgrowth, a few smallish (3/32"-1/8) smooth, shinny, light brown, oval berry looking growths attached to the still green twigs.
I have seen these in the past and assumed they where the dormant state of cedar apple rust and trimmed them off. Is this what they are? Doug Taylor ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#2
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You hit in on the head! Whenever junipers are grown in the vicinity of Malus
(apples), they become hosts to apple rust. When the berries open, they provide the spores which infect the apples. Then the apples develop leaf galls which, in turn, infect the junipers. Once you see a few of those "berries", examine the entire plant for them and cut them off. You will probably have to remove many of the branchlets to which they cling, since they wrap themselves around the branches. Once they open, they exude a disgusting orange gel, so try to get to them before this happens. As for the infected apple leaves, you must remove all these leaves as soon as you see black spots appear. Some people defoliate their apples even before seeing any damage. Don't toss the infected leaves on the ground, but place them in a plastic bag and seal it. The same goes for the juniper galls. Good luck, Doug. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Douglas Taylor" To: Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 10:51 AM Subject: [IBC] Juniper Gall question I was thinning my Pro. Nana Juniper cascade and I noticed, buried in the poofy overgrowth, a few smallish (3/32"-1/8) smooth, shinny, light brown, oval berry looking growths attached to the still green twigs. I have seen these in the past and assumed they where the dormant state of cedar apple rust and trimmed them off. Is this what they are? Doug Taylor ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#3
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On 24 Feb 2005 at 10:51, Douglas Taylor wrote:
I was thinning my Pro. Nana Juniper cascade and I noticed, buried in the poofy overgrowth, a few smallish (3/32"-1/8) smooth, shinny, light brown, oval berry looking growths attached to the still green twigs. I have seen these in the past and assumed they where the dormant state of cedar apple rust and trimmed them off. Is this what they are? Yes, or perhaps a closely related fungus. If you grow crabapple (or perhaps pear or hawthorn) bonsai as well as juniper it's almost certain you will get this at one time or another. Careful removal and total off-site disposal of infected leaves and "cedar apples" will _help_ to control it. I know of no way to eradicate it. If you grow juniper bonsai and there are apple orchards or even individual apple, pear, etc.(including wild crabapple) trees in the neighborhood (200 yards) you'll also get it, and perhaps with more regularity since there's no way to control the Rosa family species half of the fungal equation. It _may_ be possible (but I wouldn't bet the farm on it) to control the rust by spraying the apples, etc. with a fungicide containing captan, mancozeb, myclobutanil, or triadimefon (READ THE LABEL!!!!). And be careful, those aren't for use by the faint of heart. There is no chemical treatment for junipers that I know of. The cedar apples do no lasting damage to the juniper. What damage that does occur will happen when you remove the apples. Good luck. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#4
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Doug - they almost certainly are early cedar apple rust galls or
alternatively, one of the other 2 rusts that infect junipers. Marty is right on in how to dispose of them, but I'd add that the "disgusting orange gel" is the spore mass that will infect your apples (and other susceptible Rosaceous hosts) so it's *imperative* to get them off before this occurs and continues the growth cycle. Likewise, for the apples, remove the infected leaves when they show the typical bright yellow-to-orange spots, *don't* wait for them to turn brown/black, that's the spores forming to reinfect your junipers To see pictures of the slimy alien creatures that are the "apples" releasing spores, and a good overall look at the disease, go to http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3055.html from Anita, whose landscape redcedars have *all three* rusts, and "apples" so big, Nina took one back to show off to her plant pathologist friends... Northern Harford County, Maryland, USDA zone 6 Marty Haber wrote: You hit in on the head! Whenever junipers are grown in the vicinity of Malus (apples), they become hosts to apple rust. When the berries open, they provide the spores which infect the apples. Then the apples develop leaf galls which, in turn, infect the junipers. Once you see a few of those "berries", examine the entire plant for them and cut them off. You will probably have to remove many of the branchlets to which they cling, since they wrap themselves around the branches. Once they open, they exude a disgusting orange gel, so try to get to them before this happens. As for the infected apple leaves, you must remove all these leaves as soon as you see black spots appear. Some people defoliate their apples even before seeing any damage. Don't toss the infected leaves on the ground, but place them in a plastic bag and seal it. The same goes for the juniper galls. Good luck, Doug. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Douglas Taylor" To: Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 10:51 AM Subject: [IBC] Juniper Gall question I was thinning my Pro. Nana Juniper cascade and I noticed, buried in the poofy overgrowth, a few smallish (3/32"-1/8) smooth, shinny, light brown, oval berry looking growths attached to the still green twigs. I have seen these in the past and assumed they where the dormant state of cedar apple rust and trimmed them off. Is this what they are? Doug Taylor ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Gregory Brenden++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#5
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On Feb 24, 2005, at 7:21 PM, Anita Hawkins wrote:
Doug - they almost certainly are early cedar apple rust galls or alternatively, one of the other 2 rusts that infect junipers. Marty is right on in how to dispose of them, but I'd add that the "disgusting orange gel" is the spore mass that will infect your apples (and other susceptible Rosaceous hosts) so it's *imperative* to get them off before this occurs and continues the growth cycle. snip from Anita, whose landscape redcedars have *all three* rusts, and "apples" so big, Nina took one back to show off to her plant pathologist friends... Northern Harford County, Maryland, USDA zone 6 And from her husband, whose junipers are soon to expose her crabapples to galls in the frozen wasteland of southern New York--I get them here too. There are both red cedars and apple trees in the yard. I have apple/crabapple bonsai, and a number of junipers. I haven't noticed too many galls on my junipers, but my apples were loaded last year. Craig Cowing NY Zone 5b/6a Sunset 37 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Gregory Brenden++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#6
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from Anita, whose landscape redcedars have *all three* rusts, and
"apples" so big, Nina took one back to show off to her plant pathologist friends... [Shudder]... they were HUGE. At the time I was helping the guy who was setting up the laboratory exercises for Plant Pathology class at Cornell. Nina No cedar apple rust on my bonsai since I moved to Maryland... |
#8
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If a plant is infected, can the cycle be broken? Billy on the Florida Space Coast It's easy to break the cycle with cedar-apple rust, because the spores on juniper can ONLY infect apples, and the spores on apples can ONLY infect junipers. Keeping a reasonable distance between apples and junipers will break the cycle (as long as you don't live near an apple orchard or a juniper waste area). I've told this story dozens of times, but once mo I had a yard with a big juniper in it. I had two apple trees: one was a yard away from the juniper, the other was 3 yards away. The close one was being killed by constant exposure to rust spores, but the one 2 yards farther away was barely infected. This is because spore deposition from a point source follows an exponential decay pattern: a lot of spores are splashed near the tree, but very few get even a few yards away. The decay curve is steep for water-dispersed spores (the spores on juniper), because water droplets are large and don't splash very far. In addition, the infectious period is only a few weeks in spring. So it is easier to keep roseaceous plants disease-free than junipers. You could bring them into the garage during rainstorms, for instance. It is not as easy to keep junipers disease-free. The air-dispersed spores coming off of apple leaves travel much farther in the wind; there is still an exponential decline in spore concentration, but it is much shallower; a juniper a mile from an apple could still get infected. However, the galls on juniper can be pruned off easily with little harm to the design of the bonsai except in extreme cases (someone once gave me a tiny juniper bonsai with quince-apple rust on the main trunk: it was cute, but doomed). Nina, proud owner of red cedar bonsai as well as crabapples. |
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