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Old 25-02-2012, 05:42 PM posted to rec.gardens.edible
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Default Peppers

Billy wrote:
songbird wrote:
mjciccarel wrote:
...
I would really LOVE some great Bell Peppers this year. I have great
luck with other kinds but I have yet to grow a great Bell


how are you growing them?


still waiting for an answer...


....
10-10-10 might encourage leaf
production but not much else. try
laying off that for green peppers.


Uh, the first 10 in 10-10-10 (nitrogen) will encourage leaf production.
I know you know that, but it may not be apparent to others.


yes, thanks, mistyped there.

and i do not dispute that a pepper
plant needs some nitrogen, but it
can be the case that too much nitrogen
encourages too much leaf production.
but it could also be the case that
the OP is doing something else that
isn't helping the suitation.


songbird
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Old 25-02-2012, 07:04 PM posted to rec.gardens.edible
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Default Peppers

On Feb 25, 12:42*pm, songbird wrote:
Billy wrote:
songbird wrote:
mjciccarel wrote:
...
I would really LOVE some great Bell Peppers this year. I have great
luck with other kinds but I have yet to grow a great Bell


* how are you growing them?


* still waiting for an answer...

...

* 10-10-10 might encourage leaf
production but not much else. *try
laying off that for green peppers.


Uh, the first 10 in 10-10-10 (nitrogen) will encourage leaf production.
I know you know that, but it may not be apparent to others.


* yes, thanks, mistyped there.

* and i do not dispute that a pepper
plant needs some nitrogen, but it
can be the case that too much nitrogen
encourages too much leaf production.
but it could also be the case that
the OP is doing something else that
isn't helping the suitation.

* songbird


I am not doing anything special to grow them. As I said I have used 10
10 10 in the past but I guess I won't be doing that anymore. Makes
sense now that some of the peppers from last year were really small.
These were not bell peppers. In fact if anyone is interested, the
peppers came from Sams. Sams sells a bag of yellow, red and orange
peppers that are great. I planted the seeds from them and have been
growing them for about 3 years now.
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Old 26-02-2012, 10:16 AM posted to rec.gardens.edible
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On Feb 26, 12:02*am, songbird wrote:
wrote:

...

Makes
sense now that some of the peppers from last year were really small.
These were not bell peppers. In fact if anyone is interested, the
peppers came from Sams. Sams sells a bag of yellow, red and orange
peppers that are great. I planted the seeds from them and have been
growing them for about 3 years now.


* you might be using seeds from
a hybrid variety and that can
cause the sort of thing you are
experiencing here.

* for a few $ get some seeds from a
known source. *well worth eliminating
that variable from the equation.

* if i had some here i would send them
to ya. *

* songbird


I don't think it is the seeds and I love these peppers. With the
amount of foliage on the plants and the fact that I packed them into
the garden too tight makes me think it is the other problems. This
year I will make some changes and see what happens. Thanks for a ll
the input
MJ
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Old 26-02-2012, 04:59 PM posted to rec.gardens.edible
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Default Peppers

On Feb 25, 5:25*pm, Billy wrote:

Don't fertilize after it flowers.
--

Billy

(Non gardening and Fringe Political BS snipped)

Just more Old wife's tales not supported by any real science billy.

“It isn’t what people don’t know that hurts them. It’s what they do
know that just ain’t so." Will Rogers


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Old 29-02-2012, 03:20 AM posted to rec.gardens.edible
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David Hare-Scott wrote:
Dick Adams wrote:


I planted 18 habenero plants in a 6x6ft area and
learned a big lesson - that is plant your peppers
in a north to south columns with 2ft intervals.
But from east to west, you'll need at least 3 ft.
That's 12 plants in a 6x6 garden.

I had two 6x6 garden plots and the 12 plant garden
out produced the 18 plant garden.

If you planted early, mid and late season Bell peppers,
you might get away with overcrowding.


Planting in north-south rows is preferred for all veges
that need full sun. [Of course in the antipodes we plant
in south-north rows!]


Wierd things happen when you're born upside down.

Whether you can get away with overcrowding depends on which
resource is the limiting factor for growth. If sunlight is
not the limit then with better soil you can plant closer
than with poorer.


You are obviously currect in spite of your reverse polarity.
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Old 29-02-2012, 03:27 AM posted to rec.gardens.edible
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David Hare-Scott wrote:

As long as you're an antipodinal, I'd like to tell you of
my mate, Simon. The little bugger died owing me 3 slabs
of bitters. Someone suggested I have his head stone
engraved "He died like a true Australian"


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Old 29-02-2012, 07:59 AM
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Habanero peppers generally do better in a regular or raised garden bed, and they love the heat and the sun, so choose a sunny location. If you don't have access to a garden plot, you can successfully grow habanero peppers in containers, making these tasty treats a great choice for apartment dwellers. Habanero peppers also can be grown in indoors with the help of an indoor gardening system, such as the popular AeroGarden.
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Old 29-02-2012, 11:09 AM posted to rec.gardens.edible
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Dick Adams wrote:
....
If you planted early, mid and late season Bell peppers,
you might get away with overcrowding.


it was three crops from a single planting,
raised bed, full sun, heavy clay soil, no
mulch, no fertilizer, soil amended with organic
materials only the previous fall. watered when
dry for longer than a week.

they could take a fair bit of abuse. the 2nd
harvest was so thick and often wrapped around
stems that a fair bit of damage was done in the
process. still didn't stop them from putting on
another round of growth and fruits.

we had a lot of heat and sunshine last summer,
i'm sure that helped too.


songbird
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Old 29-02-2012, 08:19 PM posted to rec.gardens.edible
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On Feb 25, 11:04*am, "
wrote:
On Feb 25, 12:42*pm, songbird wrote:



I am not doing anything special to grow them. As I said I have used 10
10 10 in the past but I guess I won't be doing that anymore.



Why? Your plant requires a steady supply of N throughout its life
cycle. A BALANCED fertilizer, ie.a 5-5-5 or a 10-10-10 is strongly
recommended by most Ag experts. These garden variety pseudo-
scientists are stupidly attempting to infer you do not need N when the
plant begins to set fruit, when in fact it is EXCESS nitrogen, as
well as other factors, such as soil and climate that affects the
vegatative phase. Cutting out N is ludicrous in any viable nutrient
management program.

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Old 29-02-2012, 09:12 PM posted to rec.gardens.edible
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Default Peppers

Dick Adams wrote:
David Hare-Scott wrote:

As long as you're an antipodinal, I'd like to tell you of
my mate, Simon. The little bugger died owing me 3 slabs
of bitters. Someone suggested I have his head stone
engraved "He died like a true Australian"


You mean he died much younger than the white man of largely preventable
diseases, excessive consumption of intoxicants and inadequate medical
services?


D

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Old 29-02-2012, 11:26 PM posted to rec.gardens.edible
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David Hare-Scott wrote:
Dick Adams wrote:
David Hare-Scott wrote:


...


As long as you're an antipodinal, I'd like to tell you of
my mate, Simon. The little bugger died owing me 3 slabs
of bitters. Someone suggested I have his head stone
engraved "He died like a true Australian"


You mean he died much younger than the white man of largely
preventable diseases, excessive consumption of intoxicants
and inadequate medical services?


Wrong on all descriptors. He had a congenital form of
muscular dystropathy, drank less than a six pack a week,
didn't smoke legal or illegal stuff, and had more than
adequate medical services. He even got more exercise
than the average patient with his disease. This included
participation in wheel chair sports and gardering via a
raised garden bed. Of course, he suffered from the
largely unpreventable antipod disorder of upsidedownitis.

Dick
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