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Sagittaria & Vallisneria
SlimFlem wrote ... The statement about the plants is that the 6.5 PH will allow the plants to synthisize elements/minerals/etc. better than at 7.5. How true this is, I'm not really sure. Mmm, there is something about trace elements precipitating out, which I think is related to total hardness, which is related to pH, but I'm not clear on the chemistry myself. Any water chemistry geeks tuned into this thread? ... using SeaChem's Neutral Regulator with the Discus Buffer. These do contain phospate buffers. Is this really a bad thing? This is a really, really bad thing for two reasons. First, you are providing more phosphate than your plants can readily use, thereby encouraging the proliferation of algae. Second, these products do not persist in the aquarium - because your plants and algae are using them, and you're dumping them when you perform water changes - which means you will be perpetually adjusting your water chemistry and struggling to achieve and maintain a desirable equilibrium. ... It sounds like you guys are thinking I am going to have an algea breakout from these new lights. Yes, we are; from the lights, the phosphates, and the lack of sufficient CO2 (see below). The LFS guys did say initally there might be a slight increase in water algea, but it would go away after a few days since the plants will be robbing it of nutrients. This COULD be true, provided the plants have everything they need to sustain vigorous growth in the correct balance. Biologic growth is limited by whatever factor is in least supply. If you are providing ample light for photosynthesis and abundant nutrients but the plants lack sufficient CO2, they will not repeat not grow. At the light levels you are proposing (even leaving aside the issue of the phosphates), supplementing with CO2 is NOT optional. With 4.5 watts per gallon and a nutrient-rich water stream, I would start with a minimum of three soda bottles of DIY CO2. Maybe more. Alternatively, I would get a signed and witnessed agreement from your LFS to clean your tank out for you after two months. Tee hee. Regarding the variable lighting schedule, I would recommend against that, too. The goal you are shooting for is to achieve a stable, desirable environment in your tank. The more factors you have to adjust, the harder that will be. I'd recommend a constant equatorial eleven hour day (where the first and last half hour of each day, the sun strikes the water at such an extreme angle that very little light penetrates more than a few inches into the water). kush "You can't have everything - where would you put it?" |
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