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  #46   Report Post  
Old 22-06-2010, 02:26 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Default The curse of BER

On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 14:06:49 -0400, "Tom J"
wrote:

Boron Elgar wrote:

I have grown tomatoes (all sorts, hybrids, heirlooms, full size and
cherries) in pots for over 20 years. The seasons and my watering
habits and capabilities/attentions have varied greatly over that
time,
and I have had seasons of great bounty and seasons of minimal
harvest
due to yield or predation of various sorts.

Nevertheless, I have never, ever had BER, so don't go thinking it is
inevitable for pots or variable watering. T'aint so.

And yes, I have tomatoes growing in the ground, too, so it isn't too
difficult to draw comparisons. I never had BER there, either.


You seem to have a very neutral soil in your area. Lucky you!! My
base soil is very acid red clay, so it takes a lot of amending &
regular soil test to keep mine neutral.

Tom J

I create the quality soil that goes into the pots and tubs I use. I
start with plain old "dirt" or sometimes with top or potting soil,
depending on what is handy, then add compost, Epsom salt, peat, manure
and anything else that the particular plant I am growing might
require.

It is rather easy to "make" good soil for pots that way and one can
tailor it to whatever one grows. I make it by the garbage-can full.
The next season, the pots' contents are screened, re-amended and
re-used, assuming no veggie-pest or contagion has hit it, in which
case, it get placed in flower beds.

I have also taken two backyards and made vegetable gardens in them by
soil amending over the years. It isn't something that can be done in
one season, but it can be done. All it takes is time and some money.

Then again, I am in NJ and they don't call it The Garden State for
nothing, although it should be said that in the central part of the
state, when my father in law, from whom I learned a lot, practiced
his master gardening, the soil was brick red clay.

Boron
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Old 22-06-2010, 02:33 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Default The curse of BER

"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message news:hvo20u$kc8
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message

I water daily because the plants suck up all the water during the day.
They are not overwatered. I water just until I see a little seapage
from the bottom of the pots. Big plants, warm and breezy days mean a
lot of transpiration.


You are using pots and you admit that these dry out daily. Either take
on board the message the BER comes as a result of inconsistent watering,
which is what you are doing by using pots, or start planting your toms

in the ground where they might have a fighting chance to avoid BER.


I guess I am finding it hard to believe that these plants require such a
delicate balance to thrive, or even do reasonably well.



You seem to be increasing the difficulty by looking at everything but the
most obvious. Toms aren't all that delicate. They aren't as tough as old
boots, but they also aren't very hard to grow if you live in a climate where
there is sufficient heat.

If you have 2 ft pots that dry out during the day, you have enough heat.
Reread the thread. If you sort out your watering problems and then still
have problems, that is the time to come back with questions about additives
or other problems etc.


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Old 22-06-2010, 02:33 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Default The curse of BER

"Boron Elgar" wrote in message
On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 18:10:35 +1000, "FarmI" ask@itshall be given
wrote:
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message

I water daily because the plants suck up all the water during the day.
They are not overwatered. I water just until I see a little seapage
from
the bottom of the pots. Big plants, warm and breezy days mean a lot of
transpiration.


You are using pots and you admit that these dry out daily. Either take on
board the message the BER comes as a result of inconsistent watering,

which
is what you are doing by using pots, or start planting your toms in the
ground where they might have a fighting chance to avoid BER.



I have grown tomatoes (all sorts, hybrids, heirlooms, full size and
cherries) in pots for over 20 years. The seasons and my watering
habits and capabilities/attentions have varied greatly over that time,
and I have had seasons of great bounty and seasons of minimal harvest
due to yield or predation of various sorts.

Nevertheless, I have never, ever had BER, so don't go thinking it is
inevitable for pots or variable watering. T'aint so.


And where did I say that planting in pots IS the cause of BER?

And yes, I have tomatoes growing in the ground, too, so it isn't too
difficult to draw comparisons. I never had BER there, either.


So why can't you identify the difference between what you are doing and what
the OP has said?

If you actually bothered to read what I wrote, to spend a nanosecond
thinking about it, you might be able to figure out what you have sorted out
and what the OP has NOT done despite him having been told a number of times
in the thread what the likely problem is. Hint: it is not pots, it is how
he looks after the pots and what may (repeat; may) be easier for him to
control if he plants in soil.


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Old 22-06-2010, 03:33 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Posts: 194
Default The curse of BER


"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message news:hvo20u$kc8
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message

I water daily because the plants suck up all the water during the day.
They are not overwatered. I water just until I see a little seapage
from the bottom of the pots. Big plants, warm and breezy days mean a
lot of transpiration.

You are using pots and you admit that these dry out daily. Either take
on board the message the BER comes as a result of inconsistent watering,
which is what you are doing by using pots, or start planting your
toms in the ground where they might have a fighting chance to avoid BER.


I guess I am finding it hard to believe that these plants require such a
delicate balance to thrive, or even do reasonably well.



You seem to be increasing the difficulty by looking at everything but the
most obvious. Toms aren't all that delicate. They aren't as tough as old
boots, but they also aren't very hard to grow if you live in a climate
where there is sufficient heat.

If you have 2 ft pots that dry out during the day, you have enough heat.
Reread the thread. If you sort out your watering problems and then still
have problems, that is the time to come back with questions about
additives or other problems etc.


I do not have a watering issue. None, zip, nada, zero. I bought a meter
some weeks back and I water when the pots "dry" out but do not get "dried"
out. If the 2 times the leaves wilted a very little causd BER, then I will
never grow tomatoes again.

Paul


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Old 22-06-2010, 03:50 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Posts: 106
Default The curse of BER

In article ,
"David Hare-Scott" wrote:

Dan L. wrote:

Hmmm ... how much dolomite should I add to a 22 inch pot with 2
cubic feet of soil? Or does it matter? I mean the plant will take
it up as needed. Can you overdose?

Paul


You can overdose because dolomite will raise the pH, so it would be
good to know the pH before you start. For tomatoes you are looking
for pH about 6 to 6.5 IIRC. I would try about half a cup. It isn't
very soluble so it will take a while to work.

David


Warning!!! - Dolomite can be very nasty stuff to handle. Use a
respirator mask! Not some simple dust mask! Dolomite can burn your
soil (and your lungs) if too much is applied. I suggest a non burning
form of agricultural lime. There are some forms of lime that are
pelletized and much much safer (mask may OR may not be needed) and
easier to use.


I had always considered dolomite to be one iof the fairly benign
agricultural minerals and the possibility of it doing personal harm is new
to me.

Dolomite is calcium magnesium carbonate. It is slightly soluble and mildly
alkaline in water, very much like agricultural lime. It is often used in
place of lime to raise pH and/or to add magnesium if the soil is deficient.
It can contain impurities of heavy metals but so can gypsum and other
agricultural minerals, the risk with these is cumulative build-up rather
than immediate damage.

What do you mean by "it can burn your lungs"? What damage would it do?

What do you mean by "burn your soil"? What would happen? How is it
different to "non burning agricultural lime" (which is calcium carbonate)
other than the presence of magnesium as well as calcium? How does the
magnesium make it dangerous?

If you are not in a position to supply details yourself please give a
reference to this information.

David


First, I will state DOLOMITE is a very good product for gardening and
farm use! I am saying, use personal protection like the labels on the
bags state. I use and will continue to use dolomite.

I dropped a bag once and the dust flew. I was coughing so hard my lungs
was so sore and had a burning feeling for a week before I could breath
right. I had chest xrays and medicine to help the irritant clear up. I
did have safety googles on that protected my eyes. However, I had no
respirator, I used a cheap dust mask, that mistake will not happen
again. It may not kill or do permanent damage. However, I would not take
that warning label on the bag too lightly. Those bags of dolomite that I
have purchased, all have a warning label that states "USE A RESPIRATOR
WHEN USING THIS PRODUCT".

David, have ever used Dolomite?
David, have you ever not read the warning labels on those bags?

Burn your soil - like in have you not ever put too much fertilizer on
your grass? It turned the grass brown like it was BURNED and it took
weeks for the grass to grow back again.

Agricultural Lime is mostly pure calcium carbonate. Depending on the
soil test that extra magnesium may not be needed or wanted. I stand
corrected about the statement I made - "non burning agricultural lime"
that statement may not be completely true.

There are some forms of pelleted limes that may not burn.
Example "NUTRALIME" a commercial product name.
http://www.mineralprocess.com/Lawn-Turf/nutralime.html
Unknown if it is better that other forms of limes, however I never need
a mask with it and I could use a cheap spreader.



Do I need to repeat the web sites the Bill and Billy has posted? Ok.
http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9923883
Read section 8, on personal safety for dolomite.
States to use safety goggles and a respirator.

--
Enjoy Life... Dan

Garden in Zone 5 South East Michigan.


  #51   Report Post  
Old 22-06-2010, 04:09 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Posts: 2,438
Default The curse of BER

In article ,
"Paul M. Cook" wrote:

"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message news:hvo20u$kc8
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message

I water daily because the plants suck up all the water during the day.
They are not overwatered. I water just until I see a little seapage
from the bottom of the pots. Big plants, warm and breezy days mean a
lot of transpiration.

You are using pots and you admit that these dry out daily. Either take
on board the message the BER comes as a result of inconsistent watering,
which is what you are doing by using pots, or start planting your
toms in the ground where they might have a fighting chance to avoid BER.


I guess I am finding it hard to believe that these plants require such a
delicate balance to thrive, or even do reasonably well.



You seem to be increasing the difficulty by looking at everything but the
most obvious. Toms aren't all that delicate. They aren't as tough as old
boots, but they also aren't very hard to grow if you live in a climate
where there is sufficient heat.

If you have 2 ft pots that dry out during the day, you have enough heat.
Reread the thread. If you sort out your watering problems and then still
have problems, that is the time to come back with questions about
additives or other problems etc.


I do not have a watering issue. None, zip, nada, zero. I bought a meter
some weeks back and I water when the pots "dry" out but do not get "dried"
out. If the 2 times the leaves wilted a very little causd BER, then I will
never grow tomatoes again.

Paul


Just for the sake of science, what do you think would happen, if you dug
a 2 cubic foot hole, and slid one of those bad boys into it? Could
things be worse?
--
- Billy
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arn3lF5XSUg
http://radwisdom.com/essays/this-is-your-brain/
  #52   Report Post  
Old 22-06-2010, 05:29 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Posts: 194
Default The curse of BER


"Billy" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Paul M. Cook" wrote:

"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message news:hvo20u$kc8
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message

I water daily because the plants suck up all the water during the
day.
They are not overwatered. I water just until I see a little seapage
from the bottom of the pots. Big plants, warm and breezy days mean
a
lot of transpiration.

You are using pots and you admit that these dry out daily. Either
take
on board the message the BER comes as a result of inconsistent
watering,
which is what you are doing by using pots, or start planting your
toms in the ground where they might have a fighting chance to avoid
BER.


I guess I am finding it hard to believe that these plants require such
a
delicate balance to thrive, or even do reasonably well.


You seem to be increasing the difficulty by looking at everything but
the
most obvious. Toms aren't all that delicate. They aren't as tough as
old
boots, but they also aren't very hard to grow if you live in a climate
where there is sufficient heat.

If you have 2 ft pots that dry out during the day, you have enough
heat.
Reread the thread. If you sort out your watering problems and then
still
have problems, that is the time to come back with questions about
additives or other problems etc.


I do not have a watering issue. None, zip, nada, zero. I bought a meter
some weeks back and I water when the pots "dry" out but do not get
"dried"
out. If the 2 times the leaves wilted a very little causd BER, then I
will
never grow tomatoes again.

Paul


Just for the sake of science, what do you think would happen, if you dug
a 2 cubic foot hole, and slid one of those bad boys into it? Could
things be worse?
--


My soil is extremely hard, alkaline stuff. Almost like cement. It would
need a lot of TLC to make it tillable. Plus I don't have very much of it.
75% of my back yard is concrete. So really planters are my only reasonable
option.

So far my yellow pears are putting out nice clusters of very healthy fruit.
I just found a couple of worm damaged ones tonight but no BER. Same
happened last year. I am really thinking the Celebrity is just a
temperamental and needy little variety. I'll be trying patio come the end
of July. We have warm days and nights past September usually so I can
probably get a crop or two in before winter.

Paul


  #53   Report Post  
Old 22-06-2010, 08:40 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Posts: 2,358
Default The curse of BER

"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message news:hvo20u$kc8
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message

I water daily because the plants suck up all the water during the day.
They are not overwatered. I water just until I see a little seapage
from the bottom of the pots. Big plants, warm and breezy days mean a
lot of transpiration.

You are using pots and you admit that these dry out daily. Either take
on board the message the BER comes as a result of inconsistent
watering, which is what you are doing by using pots, or start
planting your toms in the ground where they might have a fighting
chance to avoid BER.


I guess I am finding it hard to believe that these plants require such a
delicate balance to thrive, or even do reasonably well.



You seem to be increasing the difficulty by looking at everything but the
most obvious. Toms aren't all that delicate. They aren't as tough as
old boots, but they also aren't very hard to grow if you live in a
climate where there is sufficient heat.

If you have 2 ft pots that dry out during the day, you have enough heat.
Reread the thread. If you sort out your watering problems and then still
have problems, that is the time to come back with questions about
additives or other problems etc.


I do not have a watering issue. None, zip, nada, zero.


There seems to be someone posting using your name and saying different
things over several posts.


  #54   Report Post  
Old 22-06-2010, 10:30 PM posted to rec.gardens
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Mar 2008
Posts: 194
Default The curse of BER


"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message news:hvo20u$kc8
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message

I water daily because the plants suck up all the water during the
day. They are not overwatered. I water just until I see a little
seapage from the bottom of the pots. Big plants, warm and breezy
days mean a lot of transpiration.

You are using pots and you admit that these dry out daily. Either
take on board the message the BER comes as a result of
inconsistent watering, which is what you are doing by using pots,
or start planting your toms in the ground where they might have a
fighting chance to avoid BER.


I guess I am finding it hard to believe that these plants require such
a delicate balance to thrive, or even do reasonably well.


You seem to be increasing the difficulty by looking at everything but
the most obvious. Toms aren't all that delicate. They aren't as tough
as old boots, but they also aren't very hard to grow if you live in a
climate where there is sufficient heat.

If you have 2 ft pots that dry out during the day, you have enough heat.
Reread the thread. If you sort out your watering problems and then
still have problems, that is the time to come back with questions about
additives or other problems etc.


I do not have a watering issue. None, zip, nada, zero.


There seems to be someone posting using your name and saying different
things over several posts.


I'll repeat, it is *not* a watering issue. Unless these damn things are so
delicate they rot out if the moisture fluctuates 1%.

Paul


  #55   Report Post  
Old 23-06-2010, 12:24 AM posted to rec.gardens
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,438
Default The curse of BER

In article ,
"Paul M. Cook" wrote:

"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message news:hvo20u$kc8
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message

I water daily because the plants suck up all the water during the
day. They are not overwatered. I water just until I see a little
seapage from the bottom of the pots. Big plants, warm and breezy
days mean a lot of transpiration.

You are using pots and you admit that these dry out daily. Either
take on board the message the BER comes as a result of
inconsistent watering, which is what you are doing by using pots,
or start planting your toms in the ground where they might have a
fighting chance to avoid BER.


I guess I am finding it hard to believe that these plants require such
a delicate balance to thrive, or even do reasonably well.


You seem to be increasing the difficulty by looking at everything but
the most obvious. Toms aren't all that delicate. They aren't as tough
as old boots, but they also aren't very hard to grow if you live in a
climate where there is sufficient heat.

If you have 2 ft pots that dry out during the day, you have enough heat.
Reread the thread. If you sort out your watering problems and then
still have problems, that is the time to come back with questions about
additives or other problems etc.


I do not have a watering issue. None, zip, nada, zero.


There seems to be someone posting using your name and saying different
things over several posts.


I'll repeat, it is *not* a watering issue. Unless these damn things are so
delicate they rot out if the moisture fluctuates 1%.

Paul


From the top.

BER is said to occur when there is
1) uneven watering,
2) drought,
3) heavy rainfall,
4) excessive nitrogen fertilization,
5) rapid plant growth or root pruning during cultivation,
6) high winds and rapid temperature changes.

The rapid plant growth and nitrogen fertilization are both common to
conditions seen early in the season, when most BER occurs.

THEN IT USUALLY GOES AWAY.

BER occurs because under the above conditions, Ca++ moves from the fruit
into the stems of the plant. Some feel that Ca++ never reaches the
fruits because under stress, demand for Ca++ exceeds supply.

This reduced amount of Ca++ is what causes BER. Excessive rates of
transpiration (kind of like sweating in humans) also is involved in Ca++
displacement. Thus, the plant as a whole is NOT Ca++ deficient, the Ca++
has just been displaced.

University field trial experiments have so far failed to show that BER
can be prevented by addition of Ca++. Peppers and some cole crops are
also susceptible to BER and Ca++ addition for those crops also.

The results are the same; addition of Ca++ does not prevent BER.
--
- Billy
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arn3lF5XSUg
http://radwisdom.com/essays/this-is-your-brain/


  #56   Report Post  
Old 23-06-2010, 01:20 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Posts: 2,438
Default The curse of BER

In article
,
Billy wrote:

In article ,
"Paul M. Cook" wrote:

"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message news:hvo20u$kc8
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message

I water daily because the plants suck up all the water during the
day. They are not overwatered. I water just until I see a little
seapage from the bottom of the pots. Big plants, warm and breezy
days mean a lot of transpiration.

You are using pots and you admit that these dry out daily. Either
take on board the message the BER comes as a result of
inconsistent watering, which is what you are doing by using pots,
or start planting your toms in the ground where they might have a
fighting chance to avoid BER.


I guess I am finding it hard to believe that these plants require such
a delicate balance to thrive, or even do reasonably well.


You seem to be increasing the difficulty by looking at everything but
the most obvious. Toms aren't all that delicate. They aren't as tough
as old boots, but they also aren't very hard to grow if you live in a
climate where there is sufficient heat.

If you have 2 ft pots that dry out during the day, you have enough
heat.
Reread the thread. If you sort out your watering problems and then
still have problems, that is the time to come back with questions about
additives or other problems etc.


I do not have a watering issue. None, zip, nada, zero.

There seems to be someone posting using your name and saying different
things over several posts.


I'll repeat, it is *not* a watering issue. Unless these damn things are so
delicate they rot out if the moisture fluctuates 1%.

Paul


From the top.

BER is said to occur when there is
1) uneven watering,
2) drought,
3) heavy rainfall,
4) excessive nitrogen fertilization,
5) rapid plant growth or root pruning during cultivation,
6) high winds and rapid temperature changes.

The rapid plant growth and nitrogen fertilization are both common to
conditions seen early in the season, when most BER occurs.

THEN IT USUALLY GOES AWAY.

BER occurs because under the above conditions, Ca++ moves from the fruit
into the stems of the plant. Some feel that Ca++ never reaches the
fruits because under stress, demand for Ca++ exceeds supply.

This reduced amount of Ca++ is what causes BER. Excessive rates of
transpiration (kind of like sweating in humans) also is involved in Ca++
displacement. Thus, the plant as a whole is NOT Ca++ deficient, the Ca++
has just been displaced.

University field trial experiments have so far failed to show that BER
can be prevented by addition of Ca++. Peppers and some cole crops are
also susceptible to BER, and Ca++ additions have been made for those
crops also.

The results are the same; addition of Ca++ does not prevent BER.

THEN IT USUALLY GOES AWAY.
--
- Billy
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arn3lF5XSUg
http://radwisdom.com/essays/this-is-your-brain/
  #57   Report Post  
Old 23-06-2010, 03:07 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Posts: 3,036
Default The curse of BER

Dan L. wrote:
In article ,
"David Hare-Scott" wrote:

Dan L. wrote:

Hmmm ... how much dolomite should I add to a 22 inch pot with 2
cubic feet of soil? Or does it matter? I mean the plant will
take it up as needed. Can you overdose?

Paul


You can overdose because dolomite will raise the pH, so it would be
good to know the pH before you start. For tomatoes you are looking
for pH about 6 to 6.5 IIRC. I would try about half a cup. It
isn't very soluble so it will take a while to work.

David

Warning!!! - Dolomite can be very nasty stuff to handle. Use a
respirator mask! Not some simple dust mask! Dolomite can burn your
soil (and your lungs) if too much is applied. I suggest a non
burning form of agricultural lime. There are some forms of lime
that are pelletized and much much safer (mask may OR may not be
needed) and easier to use.


I had always considered dolomite to be one iof the fairly benign
agricultural minerals and the possibility of it doing personal harm
is new to me.

Dolomite is calcium magnesium carbonate. It is slightly soluble and
mildly alkaline in water, very much like agricultural lime. It is
often used in place of lime to raise pH and/or to add magnesium if
the soil is deficient. It can contain impurities of heavy metals but
so can gypsum and other agricultural minerals, the risk with these
is cumulative build-up rather than immediate damage.

What do you mean by "it can burn your lungs"? What damage would it
do?

What do you mean by "burn your soil"? What would happen? How is it
different to "non burning agricultural lime" (which is calcium
carbonate) other than the presence of magnesium as well as calcium?
How does the magnesium make it dangerous?

If you are not in a position to supply details yourself please give a
reference to this information.

David


First, I will state DOLOMITE is a very good product for gardening and
farm use! I am saying, use personal protection like the labels on the
bags state. I use and will continue to use dolomite.

I dropped a bag once and the dust flew. I was coughing so hard my
lungs was so sore and had a burning feeling for a week before I could
breath right. I had chest xrays and medicine to help the irritant
clear up. I did have safety googles on that protected my eyes.
However, I had no respirator, I used a cheap dust mask, that mistake
will not happen again. It may not kill or do permanent damage.
However, I would not take that warning label on the bag too lightly.
Those bags of dolomite that I have purchased, all have a warning
label that states "USE A RESPIRATOR WHEN USING THIS PRODUCT".


There are a great many substances in this world (including lime) that are
harmless in most circumstances that will do you harm if finely divided and
breathed in.

David, have ever used Dolomite?


Yes, I see no difference to lime, which was my point. I don't wear a mask
when using either. Nor do I throw it about and inhale the cloud.

David, have you ever not read the warning labels on those bags?


Yes, everything has warnings on the bag. This shows that we live in a
litigious age not that everything is seriously harmful. I am amazed that it
doesn't warn "may contain peanuts".


Burn your soil - like in have you not ever put too much fertilizer on
your grass? It turned the grass brown like it was BURNED and it took
weeks for the grass to grow back again.


I have seen this happen though not been personally responsible. Applying
lime or dolomite does not have the risk of causing this problem because they
are so chemically different to the soluble salts that make up synthetic
fertiliser or the compounds found in (say) fresh chicken manure. This is
not to say you cannot overdose lime or dolomite but the consequences and the
speed of onset of the problem would be quite different.


Agricultural Lime is mostly pure calcium carbonate. Depending on the
soil test that extra magnesium may not be needed or wanted. I stand
corrected about the statement I made - "non burning agricultural
lime" that statement may not be completely true.

There are some forms of pelleted limes that may not burn.
Example "NUTRALIME" a commercial product name.
http://www.mineralprocess.com/Lawn-Turf/nutralime.html
Unknown if it is better that other forms of limes, however I never
need a mask with it and I could use a cheap spreader.



Pelletised products may be less irritating if thrown about. In some
circumstances finely ground lime is preferred because it spreads better and
dissolves (and so acts) faster. For example the local limestone quarry has
a course grade for industrial use and a fine grade for agricultural.



Do I need to repeat the web sites the Bill and Billy has posted? Ok.
http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9923883
Read section 8, on personal safety for dolomite.
States to use safety goggles and a respirator.


No need to repeat it, it looks to me about the same as lime, that is
'slightly hazardous'. I wasn't saying that it is harmless but that you were
exaggerating the likelihood of injury from occasional use. If I was
spreading tons of either lime or dolomite behind the tractor I would be
wearing the full protective gear but that is not adding a spoon of it to a
pot plant.


David


  #58   Report Post  
Old 23-06-2010, 03:44 AM posted to rec.gardens
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Mar 2008
Posts: 194
Default The curse of BER


"Billy" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Paul M. Cook" wrote:

"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message news:hvo20u$kc8
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message

I water daily because the plants suck up all the water during the
day. They are not overwatered. I water just until I see a little
seapage from the bottom of the pots. Big plants, warm and breezy
days mean a lot of transpiration.

You are using pots and you admit that these dry out daily. Either
take on board the message the BER comes as a result of
inconsistent watering, which is what you are doing by using
pots,
or start planting your toms in the ground where they might have a
fighting chance to avoid BER.


I guess I am finding it hard to believe that these plants require
such
a delicate balance to thrive, or even do reasonably well.


You seem to be increasing the difficulty by looking at everything but
the most obvious. Toms aren't all that delicate. They aren't as
tough
as old boots, but they also aren't very hard to grow if you live in a
climate where there is sufficient heat.

If you have 2 ft pots that dry out during the day, you have enough
heat.
Reread the thread. If you sort out your watering problems and then
still have problems, that is the time to come back with questions
about
additives or other problems etc.


I do not have a watering issue. None, zip, nada, zero.

There seems to be someone posting using your name and saying different
things over several posts.


I'll repeat, it is *not* a watering issue. Unless these damn things are
so
delicate they rot out if the moisture fluctuates 1%.

Paul


From the top.

BER is said to occur when there is
1) uneven watering,
2) drought,
3) heavy rainfall,
4) excessive nitrogen fertilization,
5) rapid plant growth or root pruning during cultivation,
6) high winds and rapid temperature changes.

The rapid plant growth and nitrogen fertilization are both common to
conditions seen early in the season, when most BER occurs.

THEN IT USUALLY GOES AWAY.

BER occurs because under the above conditions, Ca++ moves from the fruit
into the stems of the plant. Some feel that Ca++ never reaches the
fruits because under stress, demand for Ca++ exceeds supply.

This reduced amount of Ca++ is what causes BER. Excessive rates of
transpiration (kind of like sweating in humans) also is involved in Ca++
displacement. Thus, the plant as a whole is NOT Ca++ deficient, the Ca++
has just been displaced.

University field trial experiments have so far failed to show that BER
can be prevented by addition of Ca++. Peppers and some cole crops are
also susceptible to BER and Ca++ addition for those crops also.

The results are the same; addition of Ca++ does not prevent BER.


I very well could have overdid it with the nitrogen. I am cutting way back
on the fertilize, perhaps none for 2 weeks or so. I just water the plant as
much as it needs. Unless my 7 dollar meter is junk that is. When the
moisture level at 3-4 inches is just above the dry mark I add water. Some
days are cool enough I don't add water for 2 days, others every day.

Paul


  #59   Report Post  
Old 23-06-2010, 10:02 AM posted to rec.gardens
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,358
Default The curse of BER

"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message news:hvo20u$kc8
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
...
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message

I water daily because the plants suck up all the water during the
day. They are not overwatered. I water just until I see a little
seapage from the bottom of the pots. Big plants, warm and breezy
days mean a lot of transpiration.

You are using pots and you admit that these dry out daily. Either
take on board the message the BER comes as a result of
inconsistent watering, which is what you are doing by using pots,
or start planting your toms in the ground where they might have a
fighting chance to avoid BER.


I guess I am finding it hard to believe that these plants require such
a delicate balance to thrive, or even do reasonably well.


You seem to be increasing the difficulty by looking at everything but
the most obvious. Toms aren't all that delicate. They aren't as tough
as old boots, but they also aren't very hard to grow if you live in a
climate where there is sufficient heat.

If you have 2 ft pots that dry out during the day, you have enough
heat. Reread the thread. If you sort out your watering problems
and then still have problems, that is the time to come back with
questions about additives or other problems etc.


I do not have a watering issue. None, zip, nada, zero.


There seems to be someone posting using your name and saying different
things over several posts.


I'll repeat, it is *not* a watering issue. Unless these damn things are
so delicate they rot out if the moisture fluctuates 1%.


Your story has changed. You really should have reread what you wrote
because "Paul M. Cook" has told us about his inconsistent watering:
1) "Paul M. Cook" wrote in message
No water stress such as dry roots. I water every day as it is quite warm
and the pots dry fast.

2) "Paul M. Cook" wrote in message
My pots get a gallon of water a day and if I do not water in the morning I
get a little wilt by afternoon. This whole uniform water has me puzzled.
I mean those plants do grow in the wild and surely a consistently moist
soil is not something they enjoy.

3) "Paul M. Cook" wrote in message
I water daily because the plants suck up all the water during the day.
They are not overwatered. I water just until I see a little seapage from
the bottom of the pots. Big plants, warm and breezy days mean a lot of
transpiration.

4) "Paul M. Cook" wrote in message
I just water the plant as much as it needs. (snip) When the moisture
level at 3-4 inches is just above the dry mark I add water. Some days
are cool enough I don't add water for 2 days, others every day.




  #60   Report Post  
Old 23-06-2010, 11:32 AM posted to rec.gardens
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Jan 2007
Posts: 139
Default The curse of BER

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 19:28:50 +1000, "FarmI" ask@itshall be given
wrote:

"Boron Elgar" wrote in message


End of story, bub.


You haven't given any story. You've just blathered on as a result of
incomprehension.


You posted giving a possible cause and possible cure of BER, each
relating to growing methodology in pots or removing to the ground. I
countered that neither was necessarily a cause nor cure of or for BER.

I stand by that.

If you can't take the heat, get out of the garden. You asked. I gave
it.

Boron
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