I spent some time earlier today trimming back spent lily pads and getting
things cleaned up for fall. I have a 3,000 gph pump that I leave running all
winter through my biofalls filter. Live in central Arkansas where the
winters can get cold but the pond rarely freezes all the way over. I was
thinking about switching to a lower flow water pump for the winter season to
save a little money and avoid super chilling the water on those coldest
days. The main purpose for me running water through the winter would be to
keep the bacteria alive in the filter and prevent the filter basin from
freezing solid and cracking, right? Does anyone do this? Got any suggestions
for me?

TIA

JB

On Sun, 28 Sep 2008 17:56:56 EDT, "JB" wrote:

I spent some time earlier today trimming back spent lily pads and getting
things cleaned up for fall. I have a 3,000 gph pump that I leave running all
winter through my biofalls filter. Live in central Arkansas where the
winters can get cold but the pond rarely freezes all the way over. I was
thinking about switching to a lower flow water pump for the winter season to
save a little money and avoid super chilling the water on those coldest
days. The main purpose for me running water through the winter would be to
keep the bacteria alive in the filter and prevent the filter basin from
freezing solid and cracking, right? Does anyone do this? Got any suggestions
for me? TIA JB

I do, I slow down from 1500 to 500 gph. One of the important thing, imo, in
case of power lost everything need to self drain.

It has made a world of difference for spring start-up, in that the filter
comes on line as soon as the temps start coming up. ~ jan

------------
Zone 7a, SE Washington State
Ponds: www.jjspond.us

I redirect the flow right back into the pond into the in pond veggie filter. But I
too may switch to a smaller pump into the filter. I am going to dig out a timer and
shut it down at night now that temps are dropping. Time to dig out my pond heater
too. Ingrid

On Sun, 28 Sep 2008 17:56:56 EDT, "JB" wrote:

I spent some time earlier today trimming back spent lily pads and getting
things cleaned up for fall. I have a 3,000 gph pump that I leave running all
winter through my biofalls filter. Live in central Arkansas where the
winters can get cold but the pond rarely freezes all the way over. I was
thinking about switching to a lower flow water pump for the winter season to
save a little money and avoid super chilling the water on those coldest
days. The main purpose for me running water through the winter would be to
keep the bacteria alive in the filter and prevent the filter basin from
freezing solid and cracking, right? Does anyone do this? Got any suggestions
for me?

TIA

JB

Thanks jan. You do this by switching out pumps, right? I'm assuming you have
a "skimmer box"? I'm using a submersible pump (OASE Auquamax) and I need to
use one with a larger intake to avoid clogs and having to clean a
pre-filter. My thinking is that I could cut my electricity usage by 2/3rds
and not experience any negative effects from downsizing. On the other side
of saving money, energy efficient pumps are really costing a lot these days.
What to do? What to do?

JB



"~ jan" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 28 Sep 2008 17:56:56 EDT, "JB" wrote:

I spent some time earlier today trimming back spent lily pads and getting
things cleaned up for fall. I have a 3,000 gph pump that I leave running
all
winter through my biofalls filter. Live in central Arkansas where the
winters can get cold but the pond rarely freezes all the way over. I was
thinking about switching to a lower flow water pump for the winter season
to
save a little money and avoid super chilling the water on those coldest
days. The main purpose for me running water through the winter would be to
keep the bacteria alive in the filter and prevent the filter basin from
freezing solid and cracking, right? Does anyone do this? Got any
suggestions
for me? TIA JB

I do, I slow down from 1500 to 500 gph. One of the important thing, imo,
in
case of power lost everything need to self drain.

It has made a world of difference for spring start-up, in that the filter
comes on line as soon as the temps start coming up. ~ jan

------------
Zone 7a, SE Washington State
Ponds: www.jjspond.us

How do you slow down a pump? I do have a ball valve on just past my
pump before my filter. The PVS is split into a "Y" with one side
going to a waterfall, the other going directly to the a return back to
the pond. (I plan on adding a veggie filter next year)

The water fall has vinyl tubing from the pump, the rest of my plumbing
is PVC. Can someone tell me what I need to do. (I can post some pics if
that wold help too)

Thank you

wrote:
I redirect the flow right back into the pond into the in pond veggie
filter. But I too may switch to a smaller pump into the filter. I
am going to dig out a timer and shut it down at night now that temps
are dropping. Time to dig out my pond heater too. Ingrid

The point surely, of keeping the system ticking over, is so that come
spring, you still have bacterial action? Turning off at night will kill that
good bacteria??
--
Pete C
London UK

From what I've read you should never restrict the in-flow of water to the
pump. You can restrict the flow on the out-bound side. You can divert the
water from the filter and back into your pond if your goal is to reduce the
amount of water flowing through the filter. My interest was in cutting my
electrical usage and still keep my bacteria field viable with a minimal
amount of water flowing through the filter. For me, it looks like I'm going
to have to switch to a smaller pump to do this.

"Peter Pan" wrote in message
. ..


How do you slow down a pump? I do have a ball valve on just past my pump
before my filter. The PVS is split into a "Y" with one side going to a
waterfall, the other going directly to the a return back to the pond. (I
plan on adding a veggie filter next year)

The water fall has vinyl tubing from the pump, the rest of my plumbing is
PVC. Can someone tell me what I need to do. (I can post some pics if that
wold help too)

Thank you

On Tue, 30 Sep 2008 09:21:42 EDT, "JB" wrote:

Thanks jan. You do this by switching out pumps, right?

Yes, I stick it in the pump chamber and feed a tube up to the upper pond,
as I don't run the waterfall.

I'm assuming you have a "skimmer box"?

I have a no-nitch skimmer, so not a box. Skimmer & bottom drain gravity
feed to filter (see picture on website). In the past I disconnected the
bottom drain, but last year I left it with no ill effects. If anything it
probably kept the bottom in that pond from going stagnant, which might have
been a good thing.

I'm using a submersible pump (OASE Auquamax) and I need to
use one with a larger intake to avoid clogs and having to clean a
pre-filter. My thinking is that I could cut my electricity usage by 2/3rds
and not experience any negative effects from downsizing. On the other side
of saving money, energy efficient pumps are really costing a lot these days.
What to do? What to do?
JB

Is your pump located in a skimmer box? ~ jan
------------
Zone 7a, SE Washington State
Ponds: www.jjspond.us

On Tue, 30 Sep 2008 09:21:59 EDT, Peter Pan wrote:



How do you slow down a pump? I do have a ball valve on just past my
pump before my filter. The PVS is split into a "Y" with one side
going to a waterfall, the other going directly to the a return back to
the pond. (I plan on adding a veggie filter next year)

The water fall has vinyl tubing from the pump, the rest of my plumbing
is PVC. Can someone tell me what I need to do. (I can post some pics if
that wold help too)

Thank you

Pictures always good. As mentioned in previous post, I use a smaller pump.
~ jan
------------
Zone 7a, SE Washington State
Ponds: www.jjspond.us

actually, I have a veggie filter do I dont depend on bacteria for conversion of
wastes. my filter is open and there is no "material" in the filter except plant
roots so my turning it off might lead to a little anaerobic activity in the mulm in
the bottom, but I dont really worry since I have a big Whitewater air pump blowing
air into the pond thru a 1 foot glass air stone. since I heat the pond and feed all
winter my main concern is keeping a veggie filter up and running that can handle the
decreased amount and frequency of feeding. Ingrid

On Tue, 30 Sep 2008 16:35:43 EDT, "Pete C" wrote:

wrote:
I redirect the flow right back into the pond into the in pond veggie
filter. But I too may switch to a smaller pump into the filter. I
am going to dig out a timer and shut it down at night now that temps
are dropping. Time to dig out my pond heater too. Ingrid

The point surely, of keeping the system ticking over, is so that come
spring, you still have bacterial action? Turning off at night will kill that
good bacteria??

Is your pump located in a skimmer box? ~ jan

Nope. It sits on a milk crate at the botton of the pond on the end oposite
from the filter/falls.
------------
Zone 7a, SE Washington State
Ponds: www.jjspond.us

On Thu, 2 Oct 2008 18:45:42 EDT, "JB" wrote:

Is your pump located in a skimmer box? ~ jan

Nope. It sits on a milk crate at the botton of the pond on the end oposite
from the filter/falls.

Should be pretty easy to change out. I wouldn't even bother with putting
the smaller one in the same crate. Just turn off the big and put the
smaller one in with its own tubing and milk crate or mesh baskets. ~ jan
------------
Zone 7a, SE Washington State
Ponds: www.jjspond.us

Yep. The challenge for me is finding an affordable 1,200 - 1,600 gph pump
that would use less electricity than my Oase Auquamax does now that would
make the switch out worth while from an economic stand point. Prices for
these low electrical consumption pumps have really increased in the last few
years!


"~ jan" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 2 Oct 2008 18:45:42 EDT, "JB" wrote:

Is your pump located in a skimmer box? ~ jan

Nope. It sits on a milk crate at the botton of the pond on the end oposite
from the filter/falls.

Should be pretty easy to change out. I wouldn't even bother with putting
the smaller one in the same crate. Just turn off the big and put the
smaller one in with its own tubing and milk crate or mesh baskets. ~ jan
------------
Zone 7a, SE Washington State
Ponds: www.jjspond.us