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#1
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Dying bareroot
Hi all
I apologize for asking this ... I think it has been covered before, but .... I purchased a beautiful, fresh and healthy-looking bareroot bagged Peace HT from Home Depot several weeks ago, and proceeded to plant it immediately after shaking off the moist sawdust packing. (it's in a clay-sand mix in full sun) I watered the plant well after planting, , and water it every 2 days. However, over three weeks have gone by, no buds have broken, and horror of horrors, the canes are starting to dry out. (Not turn black, as in canker, just dry out - dessicate.) It sure looks like it's going to be a fatality. Should I dig it up and soak it for a couple of days, then plant it again? The three other roses I purchased and planted the same day are doing well and have begun to grow. ??? I appreciate any help you can give! Thanks! Sue in SoCal |
#2
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Dying bareroot
"Susan Solomon" asked: I purchased a beautiful, fresh and healthy-looking bareroot bagged Peace HT from Home Depot several weeks ago, and proceeded to plant it immediately after shaking off the moist sawdust packing. (it's in a clay-sand mix in full sun) I watered the plant well after planting, , and water it every 2 days. However, over three weeks have gone by, no buds have broken, and horror of horrors, the canes are starting to dry out. (Not turn black, as in canker, just dry out - dessicate.) It sure looks like it's going to be a fatality. Should I dig it up and soak it for a couple of days, then plant it again? The three other roses I purchased and planted the same day are doing well and have begun to grow. ??? I appreciate any help you can give! Thanks! Sue in SoCal Hello Sue, Let's start from ground zero he never plant a bareroot rose right out of the bag or the box, or the whatever they are in. When you get them home get some warm water in a bucket (not cold as the capillaries close with cold water and warm tends to help open them) and let that poor thing soak up to 24 hours. Just before planting it, get some Super Thrive diluted with water (you don't need much, just enough to moisten the roots after you put it in the ground) and then take that baby to its new home. Make the mound and spread the roots, and now moisten them well with the Super Thrive mixture. If you have any alfalfa pellets add some and if you are in a dry area put some water crystals, no more than a couple of tablespoons around before covering the whole thing with soil. A bit of mulch wouldn't hurt and probably will help at this point. Since the rose in question appears to be in some kind of distress -not to talk about the owner ;) - you really have nothing to lose by checking where the roots are at now. So carefully lift the plant and gently wash away any soil that may cling to the roots. Get your Super Thrive and warm water and try to see if that helps. If in fact the poor thing is dehydrated this will help. If the problem is some other thing, it wouldn't hurt. I suspect that the way those poor things get whacked at the knee has something to do with it. But some times you can rescue them from that miserable starting point and make them healthy. Check to make sure there are no cane borers or any other insect having lunch and dinner on your rose and make sure the soil around the rose is friable, or at least well amended to give the poor roots a break. I am sure others will chime in with better advice but if it was my rose that is certainly what I would do. Good luck and happy gardening, Allegra |
#3
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Dying bareroot
On Sat, 15 Mar 2003 07:05:55 GMT, "Allegra"
wrote: "Susan Solomon" asked: I purchased a beautiful, fresh and healthy-looking bareroot bagged Peace HT from Home Depot several weeks ago, and proceeded to plant it immediately after shaking off the moist sawdust packing. (it's in a clay-sand mix in full sun) I watered the plant well after planting, , and water it every 2 days. However, over three weeks have gone by, no buds have broken, and horror of horrors, the canes are starting to dry out. (Not turn black, as in canker, just dry out - dessicate.) It sure looks like it's going to be a fatality. Should I dig it up and soak it for a couple of days, then plant it again? The three other roses I purchased and planted the same day are doing well and have begun to grow. ??? I appreciate any help you can give! Thanks! Sue in SoCal Hello Sue, Let's start from ground zero he never plant a bareroot rose right out of the bag or the box, or the whatever they are in. When you get them home get some warm water in a bucket (not cold as the capillaries close with cold water and warm tends to help open them) and let that poor thing soak up to 24 hours. Just before planting it, get some Super Thrive diluted with water (you don't need much, just enough to moisten the roots after you put it in the ground) and then take that baby to its new home. Make the mound and spread the roots, and now moisten them well with the Super Thrive mixture. If you have any alfalfa pellets add some and if you are in a dry area put some water crystals, no more than a couple of tablespoons around before covering the whole thing with soil. A bit of mulch wouldn't hurt and probably will help at this point. Since the rose in question appears to be in some kind of distress -not to talk about the owner ;) - you really have nothing to lose by checking where the roots are at now. So carefully lift the plant and gently wash away any soil that may cling to the roots. Get your Super Thrive and warm water and try to see if that helps. If in fact the poor thing is dehydrated this will help. If the problem is some other thing, it wouldn't hurt. I suspect that the way those poor things get whacked at the knee has something to do with it. But some times you can rescue them from that miserable starting point and make them healthy. Check to make sure there are no cane borers or any other insect having lunch and dinner on your rose and make sure the soil around the rose is friable, or at least well amended to give the poor roots a break. I am sure others will chime in with better advice but if it was my rose that is certainly what I would do. Good luck and happy gardening, Allegra The other thing to consider is that the plant itself needs protection from drying winds and direct sun while it gets its root system established (although sun has been the least of our worries here in Nashville lately g). That's why it's recommended that you completely cover the canes with mulch until you start to see buds breaking through the mulch. By covering it, you keep it moister than just watering the ground and I suspect that it keeps the canes hydrated as well. It usually takes 3-4 weeks before you remove the mulch (at least here in zone 6b). If you remove and repeat, don't forget the mound of mulch this time. It will help, *if* the plant isn't already gone. Also, if you get some growth, give it some epson salts, blood meal and alfalfa meal in addition to any fertilizer that you give it to try to jumpstart new basal growth (I think it's the epson salts, but someone might correct me). Best of luck! |
#4
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Dying bareroot
Thanks to you both for your responses! I'll give your suggestions a try.
Sue "dave weil" wrote in message ... On Sat, 15 Mar 2003 07:05:55 GMT, "Allegra" wrote: "Susan Solomon" asked: I purchased a beautiful, fresh and healthy-looking bareroot bagged Peace HT from Home Depot several weeks ago, and proceeded to plant it immediately after shaking off the moist sawdust packing. (it's in a clay-sand mix in full sun) I watered the plant well after planting, , and water it every 2 days. However, over three weeks have gone by, no buds have broken, and horror of horrors, the canes are starting to dry out. (Not turn black, as in canker, just dry out - dessicate.) It sure looks like it's going to be a fatality. Should I dig it up and soak it for a couple of days, then plant it again? The three other roses I purchased and planted the same day are doing well and have begun to grow. ??? I appreciate any help you can give! Thanks! Sue in SoCal Hello Sue, Let's start from ground zero he never plant a bareroot rose right out of the bag or the box, or the whatever they are in. When you get them home get some warm water in a bucket (not cold as the capillaries close with cold water and warm tends to help open them) and let that poor thing soak up to 24 hours. Just before planting it, get some Super Thrive diluted with water (you don't need much, just enough to moisten the roots after you put it in the ground) and then take that baby to its new home. Make the mound and spread the roots, and now moisten them well with the Super Thrive mixture. If you have any alfalfa pellets add some and if you are in a dry area put some water crystals, no more than a couple of tablespoons around before covering the whole thing with soil. A bit of mulch wouldn't hurt and probably will help at this point. Since the rose in question appears to be in some kind of distress -not to talk about the owner ;) - you really have nothing to lose by checking where the roots are at now. So carefully lift the plant and gently wash away any soil that may cling to the roots. Get your Super Thrive and warm water and try to see if that helps. If in fact the poor thing is dehydrated this will help. If the problem is some other thing, it wouldn't hurt. I suspect that the way those poor things get whacked at the knee has something to do with it. But some times you can rescue them from that miserable starting point and make them healthy. Check to make sure there are no cane borers or any other insect having lunch and dinner on your rose and make sure the soil around the rose is friable, or at least well amended to give the poor roots a break. I am sure others will chime in with better advice but if it was my rose that is certainly what I would do. Good luck and happy gardening, Allegra The other thing to consider is that the plant itself needs protection from drying winds and direct sun while it gets its root system established (although sun has been the least of our worries here in Nashville lately g). That's why it's recommended that you completely cover the canes with mulch until you start to see buds breaking through the mulch. By covering it, you keep it moister than just watering the ground and I suspect that it keeps the canes hydrated as well. It usually takes 3-4 weeks before you remove the mulch (at least here in zone 6b). If you remove and repeat, don't forget the mound of mulch this time. It will help, *if* the plant isn't already gone. Also, if you get some growth, give it some epson salts, blood meal and alfalfa meal in addition to any fertilizer that you give it to try to jumpstart new basal growth (I think it's the epson salts, but someone might correct me). Best of luck! |
#6
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Dying bareroot
Should I dig it up and soak it for a couple of days, then plant it again? The three other roses I purchased and planted the same day are doing well and have begun to grow. ??? I appreciate any help you can give! Thanks! Sue in SoCa Sue, we have been having an interesting 'winter' in So Cal -- so it may be that you did not soak with water enough after you planted the rose. I actually bought at lot of cheap roses from HD and haven't had the time to plant them . My eyes were too big. Anyway, I did keep the bareroots wet and was able to plant them a couple of weeks later. All thrived -- including the one which had hardly any bareroots at all. Personally, I do not follow the 'rules for planting' put out be magazines and garden gurus. I go be instinct and common sense. I have to start from scratch since I moved last December. The new place had clayey soil. I mixed a good dose of Bumper Crop to the soil before I planted the roses and kept the roses watered everyday -- especially with the Santa Ana winds. BTW, three out of four isn't bad. One should expect 'casualties' . This weekend's rain storm should be most helpful. /z. |
#7
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Dying bareroot
Susan, you probably saw this in my earlier post, but I've repeated it
below. I would not dig the bush up as has been suggested, because if it has started developing tiny rootlets you'll destroy them. I would also like to add that it is better NOT to mix in alfalfa in de planting hole, as it might damage the roots when it decomposes. Additionally, most rosarians recommend NOT to add any fertilizer when you plant a bareroot rose. Other than damaging the plants roots, the abundance of nutrients will make the rose think that it has enough roots already and slow the development of its root system: it will make your rose lazy. Adding decomposed organic material will do the job, as this releases its stored nutrients slowly, and retains moisture. Good luck! Rob |
#8
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Dying bareroot
In Rob wrote:
I would also like to add that it is better NOT to mix in alfalfa in de planting hole, as it might damage the roots when it decomposes. Not meaning to be rude, but how, exactly? Additionally, most rosarians recommend NOT to add any fertilizer when you plant a bareroot rose. Other than damaging the plants roots, the abundance of nutrients will make the rose think that it has enough roots already and slow the development of its root system: it will make your rose lazy. I agree that quick release fertilisers and manures will burn roots, but Osmocote and other organic types (alfalfa included) are great in small quantities. The idea that roses would become lazy around the presence of nutrients is an absurd concept. |
#9
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Dying bareroot
I would also like to add that it is better NOT to mix in alfalfa in de
planting hole, as it might damage the roots when it decomposes. Not meaning to be rude, but how, exactly? It's not from my own experience, but a lot of websites writing about alfalfa say it's better not to add it to the planting hole because the decomposing of the alfalfa generates heat. Maybe it is safe to use in small quantities, like you state, but maybe not. To be on the safe side, use alfalfa as a top dressing and use decomposed organics (compost) as a soil amendment in the planting hole. I agree that quick release fertilisers and manures will burn roots, but Osmocote and other organic types (alfalfa included) are great in small quantities. The idea that roses would become lazy around the presence of nutrients is an absurd concept. Well, the part about the laziness was just illustrative. I meant to point out that an abundance of nutrients might slow down root formation, because there is less stimulus to spread out and search for 'food'. Or, explained differently, if there is an abundance of nitrogen, the plant starts to grows stems and leaves before its root system would be the size you want it to be. Also, you don't need to add fertilizers to a plant that does not have roots yet, because it cannot absorb the nutrients. Give it a year to get the root system going and then start fertilizing for good growth and nice flowers. Rob |
#11
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Dying bareroot
"Daniel Hanna" wrote in message
home.com.au... In Rob wrote: I would also like to add that it is better NOT to mix in alfalfa in de planting hole, as it might damage the roots when it decomposes. Not meaning to be rude, but how, exactly? I suppose as the alfalfa decomposes it could generate heat, the same way the bacteria that breakdown compost piles generate heat. I just use a handful of alfalfa pellets that i stir around the soil/compost/and various ammendments, so that there is a more homogenious mix, rather then layers of various goodies. The only thing I add to the soil, just before I plant the rose is bone meal, and that because I want the phosphorous to be as close to the roots as possible. Sameer |
#12
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Dying bareroot
I've been adding Osmocote to planting holes along with bone meal and
alfalfa pellets for 5 years with good results. We plant bareroots here while the soil is still too cold to release very much nitrogen or other nutrients from a coated fertilizer. In fact, that is why I apply a mild solution of water soluble fertilizer in the early spring, after all the roses have leafed out and shown vigorous new growth. (Just did it today: combination of liquid kelp and Growmore Magnum Rose food at about half strength). But even when I plant potted roses in the middle of summer I add Osmocote to the soil mix. I doubt that adequate nutrients stunt growth; in fact, I suspect that the contrary is true. The hard part is knowing what is *optimal*, what is superfluous and therefore a waste of resources and what is excessive and therefore deleterious. I've read enough about growth mechanisms in plants to believe that more top growth stimulates more root growth and more root growth stimulates more top growth until the plant reaches its genetically determined size. A bareroot rose develops feeder roots much sooner than one year. Just consider how soon you will see roots in the drainage holes. By that time, the feeders will have filled the 5 gallon pot. Certainly the rose could tolerate feeding by then! IMO, waiting until then it too long. I've watched the rate of root growth in own root roses, and it can be considerable: from a band to filling a one gallon pot within 3 weeks. In the spring, the 5 gallon will fill with feeder roots within 3 or 4 months, depending on the size of the rose. Rob wrote: I would also like to add that it is better NOT to mix in alfalfa in de planting hole, as it might damage the roots when it decomposes. but how, exactly? It's not from my own experience, but a lot of websites writing about alfalfa say it's better not to add it to the planting hole because the decomposing of the alfalfa generates heat. Maybe it is safe to use in small quantities, like you state, but maybe not. To be on the safe side, use alfalfa as a top dressing and use decomposed organics (compost) as a soil amendment in the planting hole. I've added it to planting holes for 5 years without ill effect. The recommended amount is 1 cup, tho I've added as much as a quart to a big rose hole. I agree that quick release fertilisers and manures will burn roots, but Osmocote and other organic types (alfalfa included) are great in small quantities. The idea that roses would become lazy around the presence of nutrients is an absurd concept. Well, the part about the laziness was just illustrative. I meant to point out that an abundance of nutrients might slow down root formation, because there is less stimulus to spread out and search for 'food'. Or, explained differently, if there is an abundance of nitrogen, the plant starts to grows stems and leaves before its root system would be the size you want it to be. Excessive nitrogen is never good, whether you have lots of roots or few. Adequate nitrogen for the growth stage is the best. Also, you don't need to add fertilizers to a plant that does not have roots yet, because it cannot absorb the nutrients. This is true, but those roots grow fairly quickly, much faster in early fall. Give it a year to get the root system going and then start fertilizing for good growth and nice flowers. IMO, waiting a year is too long. But I am entirely in favor of fertilizing at about half of recommended rates. |
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