In article ,
says...


Here is a hardy rosemary good to zone 6.

http://www.ehow.com/list_7367161_har...ry-plants.html

I've lost quite a few here in zone 5 but wall of water can keep it
alive if the moles/voles miss them. One is perking along right now.
One of 4 planted 2 years ago.

OP may want to look into.

South side solar gain maybe trapped. Look into "passive solar designs".

My experience differs in Zone 5 London Ontario.

Rosemary doesn't survive our winter outdoors. Full stop.

The only way we can overwinter rosemary, is indoors.

We have two, ten year old potted ARP rosemary plants. They withstand
frost very well and have survived the occasional subzero (to -4 celsius
uncovered and -6 covered) late fall night but when it looks like winter
is settling in for real,they get a final shearing and are put on the
table by my office window.

ARP was originally considered to be hardy to zone 5, and then it was
supposed to be hardy to zone 6. My favourite herb seed supplier
considers it hardy to zone 7. YMMV

In article ,
"David Hare-Scott" wrote:

Billy wrote:
In article ,
"David Hare-Scott" wrote:

Nad R wrote:

Would that be the "French" Tarragon via cutting?
Or the Russian Tarragon via seed?

I find French tarragon too fiddly, it likes excellent drainage and
in my hands it dies at the drop of a hat. I don't think my climate
(hot often damp summer) and soil (heavy) are suitable. If your
climate and soil are more mediterranean it may be easier to grow.
Russian tarragon grows more easily but has little flavour.

I find a good compromise is winter tarragon (Tagetes lucinda). The
flavour is nearly as good as French and it is much easier to grow.
I don't know why it is called "winter" tarragon as it dies down in
winter but reliably re-shoots from the roots in spring. You can
harvest it fresh from spring to autumn and dry a bunch picked before
the first frost in autumn.

David

Thought you were a zone 9, which is about as Mediterranean as there
is.

Yes I am about 9b according to minimum winter temperature. I can have rain
all year round (not mainly in winter)
Sounds like France, which gets about 3 days of rain per month, at a
minimum.

In Germany, few seemed to grasp the concept of needing a hose to water
plants.

Here in N. California, rain usually falls (30" [76 cm]) from October 1
to April 30. After that, the greens hill turn a "golden" brown from May
through Sept.

but it tends to fall in concentrated
bursts which can lead to waterlogging also summer can be very humid (like
now). Many herbs from round the Med like lighter better draining soils. To
grow rosemary I have to put it in a pot or the roots rot in any wet spell.

My soil is clay, and my herbs are in pots, but we don't get humidity. Is
this, overcast and hot humidity?
D
To the OP let me suggest peanuts. It's an interesting/edible plant that
needs heat and sunshine.
--
- Billy
³When you give food to the poor, they call you a saint. When you ask why the poor have no food, they call you a communist.²
-Archbishop Helder Camara
http://peace.mennolink.org/articles/...acegroups.html
http://english.aljazeera.net/indepth...130964689.html
20111812130964689.html

"Ohioguy" wrote in message
...
The south side of our house is the exterior wall of our garage. There
are no windows, and the edge of the property line is too close to put a
lean to greenhouse or anything like that on there. Last year I tried
establishing a blueberry hedge up pretty close to the house there. I used
peat, coffee grounds, a small amount of aluminum sulfate mixed in to the
soil, plus a slow release acidifier. (soil is rather alkaline here) I
tried watering every day, but there was simply no rain for a couple of
months, and it was so hot and dry. Only 1 or 2 plants made it out of 6 or
7. I am going to take the healthiest plant and put it in a pot. This is
actually the first time I've tried growing blueberries and had one live
more than 6 months. However, I think that spot would be better used for
something else.

Can anyone suggest something that is heat and light loving, which could
be productive in such a spot? It will essentially get direct sunlight all
day long, and the spot can really concentrate heat from the sun in spring
and fall. Thanks!




I'm in Ohio, The best thing grows in my Southside backyard is tomatoes.

"DogDiesel" wrote:
"Ohioguy" wrote in message
...
The south side of our house is the exterior wall of our garage. There
are no windows, and the edge of the property line is too close to put a
lean to greenhouse or anything like that on there. Last year I tried
establishing a blueberry hedge up pretty close to the house there. I used
peat, coffee grounds, a small amount of aluminum sulfate mixed in to the
soil, plus a slow release acidifier. (soil is rather alkaline here) I
tried watering every day, but there was simply no rain for a couple of
months, and it was so hot and dry. Only 1 or 2 plants made it out of 6 or
7. I am going to take the healthiest plant and put it in a pot. This is
actually the first time I've tried growing blueberries and had one live
more than 6 months. However, I think that spot would be better used for
something else.

Can anyone suggest something that is heat and light loving, which could
be productive in such a spot? It will essentially get direct sunlight all
day long, and the spot can really concentrate heat from the sun in spring
and fall. Thanks!




I'm in Ohio, The best thing grows in my Southside backyard is tomatoes.

Americas favorite and number one garden plant is.... Tomatoes... Yes!

--
Enjoy Life... Nad R (Garden in zone 5a Michigan)

On Thu, 20 Jan 2011 15:38:25 -0800, Billy
wrote:

In article ,
wrote:

On Thu, 20 Jan 2011 04:41:48 -0700 (MST), (Una) wrote:

Ohioguy wrote:
The south side of our house is the exterior wall of our garage.
[...]
Can anyone suggest something that is heat and light loving, which
could be productive in such a spot?

Grape vine. Root it near a water downspout off the roof, and train it
across the wall.

Una

What does a grape vines root system look like? I ask because there's
some (3) planted not too far from my septic drain field. They're
about 3 1/2 years old.

Newb

Normally, they go straight down, looking for water. If the water is to
the left of them, they will go left (at least part of them will).

I supose moving them away from the drain field pipes would be a good
idea? A backed up drain field due to root infiltration can be pretty
expensive. Is this a good time to move them? We live in western WA
State.

Thanks.

Newb

Billy wrote:
In article ,
"David Hare-Scott" wrote:

Billy wrote:
In article ,
"David Hare-Scott" wrote:

Nad R wrote:

Would that be the "French" Tarragon via cutting?
Or the Russian Tarragon via seed?

I find French tarragon too fiddly, it likes excellent drainage and
in my hands it dies at the drop of a hat. I don't think my climate
(hot often damp summer) and soil (heavy) are suitable. If your
climate and soil are more mediterranean it may be easier to grow.
Russian tarragon grows more easily but has little flavour.

I find a good compromise is winter tarragon (Tagetes lucinda). The
flavour is nearly as good as French and it is much easier to grow.
I don't know why it is called "winter" tarragon as it dies down in
winter but reliably re-shoots from the roots in spring. You can
harvest it fresh from spring to autumn and dry a bunch picked
before the first frost in autumn.

David

Thought you were a zone 9, which is about as Mediterranean as there
is.

Yes I am about 9b according to minimum winter temperature. I can
have rain all year round (not mainly in winter)
Sounds like France, which gets about 3 days of rain per month, at a
minimum.

In Germany, few seemed to grasp the concept of needing a hose to water
plants.

Here in N. California, rain usually falls (30" [76 cm]) from October 1
to April 30. After that, the greens hill turn a "golden" brown from
May through Sept.

but it tends to fall in concentrated
bursts which can lead to waterlogging also summer can be very humid
(like now). Many herbs from round the Med like lighter better
draining soils. To grow rosemary I have to put it in a pot or the
roots rot in any wet spell.

My soil is clay, and my herbs are in pots, but we don't get humidity.
Is this, overcast and hot humidity?

That's it. The temperature is only reaching about 28C (82F) but the
humidity is 80-90%, then you get 6mls (1/4 in) of rain which does nothing
for the soil but everything for the mould.

To the OP let me suggest peanuts. It's an interesting/edible plant
that needs heat and sunshine.

Assuming it is sufficiently warm will the growing season be long enough?

D

I like the grape idea. I've already tried blueberries, and it hasn't
worked out. Perhaps I need to start out with adult sized, 3 or 4 year
old plants, and transplant them. In any case, this is the second time
I've tried blueberries, in 2 different parts of Ohio, and they have died
both times.

I already have 1 pear tree with 5 fruit varieties on it, 2 hale haven
peach trees, a nectarine and a plum. I don't think there is really room
for another fruit tree in the area, because I would need to plant it
close (right on, really) to the property line, and the neighbor would
not like it because that would be pretty close to the gate he used to go
between his fenced back yard and his front yard.

So, I am limited to perhaps planting something small right up against
the house, and maybe a row of something out closer to the property line.
Either or, or perhaps both, if both plants are pretty orderly and not
sprawling.

I like the idea of grapes, because I've always wanted to grow them,
and I've seen that they can be pretty productive. How long does it take
to get a harvest from them?

Other ideas I've had are rhubarb or everbearing raspberries, such as
heritage. Anyone have thoughts on these? My parents always got a good
harvest off of the rhubarb, and never have to put any time into them,
other than good soil preparation up front, with some cow manure at the
bottom of the deep pits.

Americas favorite and number one garden plant is.... Tomatoes... Yes!

Hmm, that's another good idea. I don't have a good place prepared
for them right now, and that certainly would be a good area for growing
them. Lots of sun, and they do seem to like heat.

If I don't grow tomatoes there, however, I can grow them along the
chain link fence that goes along the entire south side of our back yard.
I was planning on getting that set up for vegetables early this spring.

Now I'm torn between the various choices.

Ohioguy wrote:
-snip-

Other ideas I've had are rhubarb or everbearing raspberries, such as
heritage. Anyone have thoughts on these?

IMO rhubarb would do better on the north or east side. it doesn't
like the heat. I never had any luck with raspberries at all, but it
seems like they might be better suited.

My parents always got a good
harvest off of the rhubarb, and never have to put any time into them,
other than good soil preparation up front, with some cow manure at the
bottom of the deep pits.

Mine grows on an abandoned compost bed - only gets 5-6 hours of sun a
day, and stays fairly moist. it thrives through July- then sort of
peters off & gets tough.

Jim

In article ,
Jim Elbrecht wrote:

Ohioguy wrote:
-snip-

Other ideas I've had are rhubarb or everbearing raspberries, such as
heritage. Anyone have thoughts on these?

IMO rhubarb would do better on the north or east side. it doesn't
like the heat. I never had any luck with raspberries at all, but it
seems like they might be better suited.

My parents always got a good
harvest off of the rhubarb, and never have to put any time into them,
other than good soil preparation up front, with some cow manure at the
bottom of the deep pits.

Mine grows on an abandoned compost bed - only gets 5-6 hours of sun a
day, and stays fairly moist. it thrives through July- then sort of
peters off & gets tough.

Jim

Just wondering how you harvest it. Do you pull it or cut it?

--
Bill S. Jersey USA zone 5 shade garden

On Tue, 25 Jan 2011 10:38:39 -0500, Ohioguy wrote:

Americas favorite and number one garden plant is.... Tomatoes... Yes!

Hmm, that's another good idea. I don't have a good place prepared
for them right now, and that certainly would be a good area for growing
them. Lots of sun, and they do seem to like heat.

That's your best bet. They'll love the extra heat.

Start looking right now at some varieties you can't get at the local
nurseries. Start your seeds in a few weeks.

Plant a few varieties as you never know which one will like this
summer's weather best. One year my plums will be larger than my
beefsteaks-- another year the early tomatoes don't fruit until after
the plums.

Put some odd colored tomatoes in the mix. I don't know if they
taste all that different, but it really impresses non-gardeners that
you have purple/yellow/pink/orange/green/'black' or spotted tomatoes.

Plant them on trellises & make a shady spot to sit and eat them.

In my garden I *have* to have at least-
a couple cherry tomatoes
a few pasta tomatoes
a couple early
a couple huge
a lot of celebrity- my favorite tasting tomato most years
a few of something new
a few more 'new to me' varieties

That ought to cover that space nicely. nice thing about tomatoes
is soil prep isn't too bad. Dig a hole- amend it- mulch around it.
Straw/newspapers/carpet/pavers all make good paths through the tomato
space.

If I don't grow tomatoes there, however, I can grow them along the
chain link fence that goes along the entire south side of our back yard.
I was planning on getting that set up for vegetables early this spring.

The hard part of that is weeding both sides of the fence. If it is a
boundary fence you neighbor will spray with a herbicide about the time
your veggies are thriving. . . or not, and they'll be choked by his
weeds.

Now I'm torn between the various choices.

Wait until you have the vision of what you want it to look like- and
need to choose which varieties to do it with.g It is a *good*
dilemma, though.

Jim

Bill who putters wrote:

In article ,
Jim Elbrecht wrote:
-snip-

IMO rhubarb would do better on the north or east side. it doesn't
like the heat. I never had any luck with raspberries at all, but it
seems like they might be better suited.
-snip-

Just wondering how you harvest it. Do you pull it or cut it?

Pull! I start to pull as soon as the plant is putting out stalks
bigger than a pencil. These have been producing for 15 yrs or so-
so even the first spring stalks are plenty big.

I pull seed stalks, too- and discard them.

Probably not the best practice-- but I trim the leaves on the spot and
mulch with them. Every 4-5 yrs I might remember to feed them. They
get covered with 5-6' of hard packed snow through the winter as they
are to the side of the turn-around that gets all the snow blown to it.

Jim

Jim Elbrecht wrote:
Ohioguy wrote:

Other ideas I've had are rhubarb or everbearing raspberries, such as
heritage. Anyone have thoughts on these?

IMO rhubarb would do better on the north or east side. it doesn't
like the heat. I never had any luck with raspberries at all, but it
seems like they might be better suited.

Dad in Buffalo grew rhubarb and it got bigger every year until they
finally moved to a retirement home. I bet it's still in the old back
yard. It was in a pretty moist spot in the yard though. It's Buffalo
where there aren't any dry spots in many yards.

I saw blackberries grow wild in the Pacific Northwest when we lived in
Seattle metro. I have no idea if raspberries grow well in a dry spot.
I've only seen them in places with okay moisture through quite damp.

Others suggest grapes. At my old place in Chicago metro we had a
volunteer grape that I had to trim regularly to keep it from eating one
of the neighbor's crabapple trees. I never watered it and its root was
behind the shed so it never got watered. Grape sounds like a good plan
for a hot dry spot in this zone.