Perhaps you visit a garden center or look at an online catalog and see
various intriguing plants but hesitate to make the buying decision
because you're not sure about the correct planting procedure.

Today, we'll look at three ways you can buy plants (from the little
guys up to the most majestic of trees) and have a quick primer on how
to plant each type. If you still need help, send me an e-mail at


(Note: this column first appeared a couple of years ago. I'm running
it again in response to numerous e-mailed questions about how to plant
trees and shrubs.)


Potted plants
Usually, it's the smaller plants that you can buy in pots, but you'll
sometimes find larger shrubs sold that way, and the planting procedure
is the same for all of them. First of all, dig a hole approximately
twice the width and depth of the container, add some organic matter
and refill the hole about halfway with some of the soil.
Tap the pot a few times to loosen the plant and it should slide right
out. Put it into the hole and gently spread the roots out, being
careful not to break them. It's a good tip to seat the plant so it is
about an inch higher than it was in the pot to allow for it to settle.
If it is sitting too deep, simply lift it out and add a bit more soil
underneath it. When it's at the right height, carefully start filling
soil in around the plant, adding water every so often to prevent air
pockets and to keep the roots nicely moistened. Add a little mulch...
stand back and congratulate yourself!


Bare root
If you've seen the term "bare root" but aren't quite sure what it is,
allow me to explain. Simply, it's a plant, quite often a tree, that
comes to you without any soil attached to the roots. Because it has
been washed free of soil, there is a greatly reduced chance of
carrying soil-bourne diseases to your landscape, and, due to their
light weight, they are very easy to handle while planting.
If I have some bare roots that I can't plant right away, I discard all
the packing materials, lay them on the ground and loosely pile some
damp soil or compost over the root ends to keep them moist but
protected from frost. For bare root trees, about 4 to 6 hours before
planting, uncover the plants and soak the roots in a bucket of water.
Bare root perennials need less of a soak; 30 minutes to an hour should
be enough.

As with the potted plants, dig a hole that's a bit wider than seems
necessary. This allows the delicate young roots to spread without
trying to force their way through compacted soil. Place the plant into
the hole and hold upright while you fill some of the soil back in
around the base. There's usually no need to add any soil amendments at
this stage.

Add the rest of the soil around your little tree and press down firmly
but don't pack it too tightly. Add a generous amount of water and once
that has soaked in, add mulch to a depth of about two inches and a
diameter of three feet. Be sure that the mulch is not touching the
trunk! For the first year, make a point of watering it every week to
ten days, depending on weather conditions.


Balled and burlapped
"B and B" plants can be quite bulky and heavy. Always pick up your B
and B by the root ball, not the trunk. When you have dug a hole plenty
big enough for the root ball, remove any strappings, string or wire.
You can do this after you have placed the root ball into the hole if
you prefer. Natural burlap need not be completely removed as it is
biodegradable. Some landscapers leave all of it on the root ball,
while others trim it back, leaving some of it under the plant.
Thoroughly soak the root ball with water then begin filling in the
soil around the root ball, adding more water as you go. Then simply
add a layer of mulch just as you would with a bare root.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs
and landscaping to and for resources and
additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed
newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub1.html

--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

" wrote in message
...
Perhaps you visit a garden center or look at an online catalog and see
various intriguing plants but hesitate to make the buying decision
because you're not sure about the correct planting procedure.

Today, we'll look at three ways you can buy plants (from the little
guys up to the most majestic of trees) and have a quick primer on how
to plant each type. If you still need help, send me an e-mail at


(Note: this column first appeared a couple of years ago. I'm running
it again in response to numerous e-mailed questions about how to plant
trees and shrubs.)


Potted plants
Usually, it's the smaller plants that you can buy in pots, but you'll
sometimes find larger shrubs sold that way, and the planting procedure
is the same for all of them. First of all, dig a hole approximately
twice the width and depth of the container, add some organic matter
and refill the hole about halfway with some of the soil.
Tap the pot a few times to loosen the plant and it should slide right
out. Put it into the hole and gently spread the roots out, being
careful not to break them. It's a good tip to seat the plant so it is
about an inch higher than it was in the pot to allow for it to settle.
If it is sitting too deep, simply lift it out and add a bit more soil
underneath it. When it's at the right height, carefully start filling
soil in around the plant, adding water every so often to prevent air
pockets and to keep the roots nicely moistened. Add a little mulch...
stand back and congratulate yourself!


Bare root
If you've seen the term "bare root" but aren't quite sure what it is,
allow me to explain. Simply, it's a plant, quite often a tree, that
comes to you without any soil attached to the roots. Because it has
been washed free of soil, there is a greatly reduced chance of
carrying soil-bourne diseases to your landscape, and, due to their
light weight, they are very easy to handle while planting.
If I have some bare roots that I can't plant right away, I discard all
the packing materials, lay them on the ground and loosely pile some
damp soil or compost over the root ends to keep them moist but
protected from frost. For bare root trees, about 4 to 6 hours before
planting, uncover the plants and soak the roots in a bucket of water.
Bare root perennials need less of a soak; 30 minutes to an hour should
be enough.

As with the potted plants, dig a hole that's a bit wider than seems
necessary. This allows the delicate young roots to spread without
trying to force their way through compacted soil. Place the plant into
the hole and hold upright while you fill some of the soil back in
around the base. There's usually no need to add any soil amendments at
this stage.

Add the rest of the soil around your little tree and press down firmly
but don't pack it too tightly. Add a generous amount of water and once
that has soaked in, add mulch to a depth of about two inches and a
diameter of three feet. Be sure that the mulch is not touching the
trunk! For the first year, make a point of watering it every week to
ten days, depending on weather conditions.


Balled and burlapped
"B and B" plants can be quite bulky and heavy. Always pick up your B
and B by the root ball, not the trunk. When you have dug a hole plenty
big enough for the root ball, remove any strappings, string or wire.
You can do this after you have placed the root ball into the hole if
you prefer. Natural burlap need not be completely removed as it is
biodegradable. Some landscapers leave all of it on the root ball,
while others trim it back, leaving some of it under the plant.
Thoroughly soak the root ball with water then begin filling in the
soil around the root ball, adding more water as you go. Then simply
add a layer of mulch just as you would with a bare root.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs
and landscaping to and for resources and
additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed
newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

I am starting a section on selecting plants from a nursery. Can you provide
some pictures of trees that should not leave the nursery. E.g., the ones
for the cull pile.
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_selecting/


--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

symplastless wrote:

http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub1.html

Here you go again pushing your stuff down our throats. I for one am not
impressed by your so called credentials and your narrow mindedness. Who
do you ever recommend, besides yourself?



--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

" wrote in message
...
Perhaps you visit a garden center or look at an online catalog and see
various intriguing plants but hesitate to make the buying decision
because you're not sure about the correct planting procedure.

Today, we'll look at three ways you can buy plants (from the little
guys up to the most majestic of trees) and have a quick primer on how
to plant each type. If you still need help, send me an e-mail at


(Note: this column first appeared a couple of years ago. I'm running
it again in response to numerous e-mailed questions about how to plant
trees and shrubs.)


Potted plants
Usually, it's the smaller plants that you can buy in pots, but you'll
sometimes find larger shrubs sold that way, and the planting procedure
is the same for all of them. First of all, dig a hole approximately
twice the width and depth of the container, add some organic matter
and refill the hole about halfway with some of the soil.
Tap the pot a few times to loosen the plant and it should slide right
out. Put it into the hole and gently spread the roots out, being
careful not to break them. It's a good tip to seat the plant so it is
about an inch higher than it was in the pot to allow for it to settle.
If it is sitting too deep, simply lift it out and add a bit more soil
underneath it. When it's at the right height, carefully start filling
soil in around the plant, adding water every so often to prevent air
pockets and to keep the roots nicely moistened. Add a little mulch...
stand back and congratulate yourself!


Bare root
If you've seen the term "bare root" but aren't quite sure what it is,
allow me to explain. Simply, it's a plant, quite often a tree, that
comes to you without any soil attached to the roots. Because it has
been washed free of soil, there is a greatly reduced chance of
carrying soil-bourne diseases to your landscape, and, due to their
light weight, they are very easy to handle while planting.
If I have some bare roots that I can't plant right away, I discard all
the packing materials, lay them on the ground and loosely pile some
damp soil or compost over the root ends to keep them moist but
protected from frost. For bare root trees, about 4 to 6 hours before
planting, uncover the plants and soak the roots in a bucket of water.
Bare root perennials need less of a soak; 30 minutes to an hour should
be enough.

As with the potted plants, dig a hole that's a bit wider than seems
necessary. This allows the delicate young roots to spread without
trying to force their way through compacted soil. Place the plant into
the hole and hold upright while you fill some of the soil back in
around the base. There's usually no need to add any soil amendments at
this stage.

Add the rest of the soil around your little tree and press down firmly
but don't pack it too tightly. Add a generous amount of water and once
that has soaked in, add mulch to a depth of about two inches and a
diameter of three feet. Be sure that the mulch is not touching the
trunk! For the first year, make a point of watering it every week to
ten days, depending on weather conditions.


Balled and burlapped
"B and B" plants can be quite bulky and heavy. Always pick up your B
and B by the root ball, not the trunk. When you have dug a hole plenty
big enough for the root ball, remove any strappings, string or wire.
You can do this after you have placed the root ball into the hole if
you prefer. Natural burlap need not be completely removed as it is
biodegradable. Some landscapers leave all of it on the root ball,
while others trim it back, leaving some of it under the plant.
Thoroughly soak the root ball with water then begin filling in the
soil around the root ball, adding more water as you go. Then simply
add a layer of mulch just as you would with a bare root.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs
and landscaping to and for resources and
additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed
newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Its the same topic over and over again. Trees are not changing either am I changing. As the same topics arise again and again, the facts stay they same.

As far as pushing you can do a kill file on my stuff if you want. In fact please do. My information is geared for the novice on the list. I have no plans in stopping the providing of sound information. In fact here are some photos which we are starting on trees that should not leave the nursery.
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_selecting/

As far as pushing things down your throat, don.t open my post.

CHOW


Who
do you ever recommend, besides yourself?

I am not selling a service but providing suggestions based on tree biology to people interested. A couple of things.

1. I recommend www.shigoandtrees.com

2. If you want good quality trees for planting I suggest.
http://www.sln.potsdam.ny.us/

If you live in NH or the surrounding area I have people there who have studied tree biology that I recommend.

As far as tree problems go I recommend this for starters.

Many tree problems are associated with the following: They are Case Sensitive.

Troubles in the Rhizosphere
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/RHIZO.html

Unhealthy Trees from the Nursery / Improper Planting
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub1.html
and
Look up "Tree Planting" http://www.treedictionary.com

Improper Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
and
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch"

Improper Pruning
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_pruning

Improper Fertilization (See A Touch of Chemistry)
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/CHEM.html

Tree Farming and Related Problems
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/SOUND/

Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss.

Any photos on cull quality trees would be helpful. I will add them to the
site and give you credit, or, keep you anonymous.
here is the site
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_selecting/

The first problem and the most worldwide known problem is improper planting
of trees.

Many good people and organizations are telling everybody to plant trees,
implying that anybody can plant a tree correctly. I.e., Kings, Queens,
Teachers, Preachers, Environmentalist ..... Sad, but true, incorrect
planting, and planting the wrong tree in the wrong place have led to serious
tree problems worldwide. Low quality, cull pile, trees are leaving the
nursery on a regular basis. Yes, we should plant trees. But, first we need
to know the correct way to do it and to get that information out to the
people.


Starting with healthy trees is something most home owners who go to the
store are in the dark. These pictures I have, are trees the nursery
recommended? So please, lets help people select healthy trees to plant and
provide them with sound information on their care. I have not seen one
person on this list recommend the book MODERN ARBORICULTURE. Is that
because no body has read it or do they think its not helpful?

No one has recommend the World Wide Pruning Guide. Why? The same reasons?
I guess everybody wants to be an expert and push their treatments obtained
from who knows where.

Proper planting is an expensive job if done correctly. However, planting
cull trees may be cheaper, or you may think you got a good deal. It is
really just wasting your money. Time and money spent on selecting healthy
trees is not spent in vain if planted correctly and then maintained
correctly. Time spent selecting cull quality trees is not only a waste of
time but money. It would be wonderful if nursery's had a pamphlet on
selecting healthy trees which would be given to the customer.

See article by Ted Williams in Audubon, May, 1991

Incorrect planting procedures, and planting the wrong tree in the wrong
place have caused a multitude of tree problems worldwide. Cull quality
trees leaving the nursery. It is not only bad that money is wasted for the
purchase of the tree, but it is sad when the dignity of the tree is
destroyed as it wanes and dies standing tightly bound in place for all to
see. This has to be one of the worst injustices humankind has inflicted on
nature. Its everywhere you look.

Yes, trees should be planted. They should be planted correctly. Or if
correct planting procedures are not known, then trees should be planted
under the supervision of a tree care professional who understands how to
plant correctly, and who understands the concept of the right tree in the
right place. And, after planting, a continuing health care schedule should
be maintained. This health treatment plan can be found in MODERN
ARBORICULTURE the book.

http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/MARBOR.html





--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.



"symplastless" wrote in message
. ..
I am starting a section on selecting plants from a nursery. Can you
provide some pictures of trees that should not leave the nursery. E.g.,
the ones for the cull pile.
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_selecting/


--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding
us that we are not the boss.

symplastless wrote:
Any photos on cull quality trees would be helpful. I will add them to the
site and give you credit, or, keep you anonymous.
here is the site
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_selecting/


Yes, trees should be planted. They should be planted correctly. Or if
correct planting procedures are not known, then trees should be planted
under the supervision of a tree care professional who understands how to
plant correctly, and who understands the concept of the right tree in the
right place.

Here one must assume that a "tree care professional" has credentials to
announce his "professionalism". One would assume that the
"Professionalism" would include formal study at a collegiate level. We
await with abated breath the announcement of your "professional
credentials".

Beware a so called tree biologist that has never studied biology.

Don Staples

You are a perfect example of someone who claims to be a tree expert yet has
no understanding of tree biology. Sad! You are a trouble maker. You are
the devils advocate.

--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.


"D. Staples" wrote in message
...
symplastless wrote:
Any photos on cull quality trees would be helpful. I will add them to
the site and give you credit, or, keep you anonymous.
here is the site
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_selecting/


Yes, trees should be planted. They should be planted correctly. Or if
correct planting procedures are not known, then trees should be planted
under the supervision of a tree care professional who understands how to
plant correctly, and who understands the concept of the right tree in the
right place.

Here one must assume that a "tree care professional" has credentials to
announce his "professionalism". One would assume that the
"Professionalism" would include formal study at a collegiate level. We
await with abated breath the announcement of your "professional
credentials".

Beware a so called tree biologist that has never studied biology.

symplastless wrote:
Don Staples

You are a perfect example of someone who claims to be a tree expert yet has
no understanding of tree biology. Sad! You are a trouble maker. You are
the devils advocate.


Oh, show me where I ever claimed to be an "expert", I am a forester with
college degrees.

You are?

In article ,
"D. Staples" wrote:

symplastless wrote:
Don Staples

You are a perfect example of someone who claims to be a tree expert yet has
no understanding of tree biology. Sad! You are a trouble maker. You are
the devils advocate.


Oh, show me where I ever claimed to be an "expert", I am a forester with
college degrees.

You are?

Ah, in this constantly changing world, it is reassuring to know that
somethings never change. Excellent work gentlemen.
--

Billy

Bush & Cheney, Behind Bars

You say you are a forester?

What does that mean?


--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

"D. Staples" wrote in message
...
symplastless wrote:
Don Staples

You are a perfect example of someone who claims to be a tree expert yet
has no understanding of tree biology. Sad! You are a trouble maker.
You are the devils advocate.


Oh, show me where I ever claimed to be an "expert", I am a forester with
college degrees.

You are?

"D. Staples" wrote in message
...
symplastless wrote:
Don Staples

You are a perfect example of someone who claims to be a tree expert yet
has no understanding of tree biology. Sad! You are a trouble maker.
You are the devils advocate.


Oh, show me where I ever claimed to be an "expert", I am a forester with
college degrees.

You are?

A person who understands and has taught tree biology.

That's all


--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

Don

The only thing I know about forestry is that too often the practicing
foresters for the US Forest Service do not communicate well with the US
Forest Service researchers.
E.g., many timber sales have been carried out in the Allegheny National
Forest as if these examples did not exist.

http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT20...tml/index.html

http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT20...tml/index.html

http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT20...102/index.html

http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT20...182/index.html

http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT20...191/index.html

http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT20...-53/index.html

Oh well. I like to read this type of stuff. Any suggestions on other docs
to read? BTW there are some very good researchers, I.e., that is left after
Bush, with the USFS.


--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.



"symplastless" wrote in message
...
You say you are a forester?

What does that mean?


--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding
us that we are not the boss.

"D. Staples" wrote in message
...
symplastless wrote:
Don Staples

You are a perfect example of someone who claims to be a tree expert yet
has no understanding of tree biology. Sad! You are a trouble maker.
You are the devils advocate.


Oh, show me where I ever claimed to be an "expert", I am a forester with
college degrees.

You are?

Billy wrote:
In article ,
"D. Staples" wrote:

symplastless wrote:
Don Staples

You are a perfect example of someone who claims to be a tree expert yet has
no understanding of tree biology. Sad! You are a trouble maker. You are
the devils advocate.

Oh, show me where I ever claimed to be an "expert", I am a forester with
college degrees.

You are?

Ah, in this constantly changing world, it is reassuring to know that
somethings never change. Excellent work gentlemen.



Eh, Billy, could you pass the popcorn this way?


..oO(Waits for "Your Kung fu is old and you must die");

symplastless wrote:
"D. Staples" wrote in message
...
symplastless wrote:
Don Staples

You are a perfect example of someone who claims to be a tree expert yet
has no understanding of tree biology. Sad! You are a trouble maker.
You are the devils advocate.

Oh, show me where I ever claimed to be an "expert", I am a forester with
college degrees.

You are?

A person who understands and has taught tree biology.

That's all


And where did you earn your teaching certificate? Where did you
attend college to study biology? Where are your arborist
certifications? And just what is tree biology? Does it differ from
say, moss biology, or sea weed biology?

Show us your education.

Beware of so called tree biologist that have never studied biology.