Please look at these pics. This is a peach tree I planted 3 years ago. Last
year it had a touch of what appeared to be leaf curl, and the damage was
minimal. This year, the tree appears to be all but dead:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5405.JPG
http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5408.JPG
http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5409.JPG

Is there any reason to not just remove the tree now? Is it possible that it
can survive?

"Zootal" wrote in message
...
Please look at these pics. This is a peach tree I planted 3 years ago.
Last year it had a touch of what appeared to be leaf curl, and the damage
was minimal. This year, the tree appears to be all but dead:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5405.JPG

Poor thing looks very neglected/abused, it's never been pruned... but for
sure someone hit it with a dose of defoliant of some sort, maybe a good
blast of over spray. Even if it lives it'll never give a decent crop. Why
do foks plant in such unprotected places, on land that makes a junk yard
appear aesthetic, and then expect their plants to thrive let alone live...
it's very likley been planted in contamintaed soil, I bet Super Fund land.
That property looks absolutely disgusting.. it's best that poor tree dies a
quick death. Do NOT plant anything else there, except you!

"brooklyn1" wrote in message
...

"Zootal" wrote in message
...
Please look at these pics. This is a peach tree I planted 3 years ago.
Last year it had a touch of what appeared to be leaf curl, and the damage
was minimal. This year, the tree appears to be all but dead:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5405.JPG

Poor thing looks very neglected/abused, it's never been pruned... but for
sure someone hit it with a dose of defoliant of some sort, maybe a good
blast of over spray. Even if it lives it'll never give a decent crop.
Why do foks plant in such unprotected places, on land that makes a junk
yard appear aesthetic, and then expect their plants to thrive let alone
live... it's very likley been planted in contamintaed soil, I bet Super
Fund land. That property looks absolutely disgusting.. it's best that poor
tree dies a quick death. Do NOT plant anything else there, except you!



Did I mention that my property used to be a storage site for radioactive
waste? I put this tree right over a green glowing spot. I figured the extra
light would be good for it...

In article ,
"brooklyn1" wrote:

"Zootal" wrote in message
...
Please look at these pics. This is a peach tree I planted 3 years ago.
Last year it had a touch of what appeared to be leaf curl, and the damage
was minimal. This year, the tree appears to be all but dead:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...mages/DSCF5405
.JPG

Poor thing looks very neglected/abused, it's never been pruned... but for
sure someone hit it with a dose of defoliant of some sort, maybe a good
blast of over spray. Even if it lives it'll never give a decent crop. Why
do foks plant in such unprotected places, on land that makes a junk yard
appear aesthetic, and then expect their plants to thrive let alone live...
it's very likley been planted in contamintaed soil, I bet Super Fund land.
That property looks absolutely disgusting.. it's best that poor tree dies a
quick death. Do NOT plant anything else there, except you!

Sorry about that, apparently Shelly got off his leash. He hasn't been
well, you know. He's probably off to chew on a chair leg now.

I'm sure that what our sick little boy was trying to say is, "It looks
bad. Isn't there a nursery (Crescent City isn't it?) near you to help
with the diagnosis? How warm has it gotten there? What is the soil like
(wet, dry?). The tree next to it seems to be doing OK, what kind is it?
Have you given the tree a good side dose of aged manure? (Work in with a
rake.)
--

- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being
is now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the
moment of conception until death." - Rachel Carson

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=En2TzBE0lp4

http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1050688.html

On 5/24/2009 12:24 PM, Zootal wrote:
Please look at these pics. This is a peach tree I planted 3 years ago. Last
year it had a touch of what appeared to be leaf curl, and the damage was
minimal. This year, the tree appears to be all but dead:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5405.JPG
http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5408.JPG
http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5409.JPG

Is there any reason to not just remove the tree now? Is it possible that it
can survive?

It might indeed survive this year into next; but if this happens again,
it will no longer survive.

Early next year, prune it. If you don't get snow in the winter, prune
it January. If you do get snow, prune it as soon as you think there
will be no more snow. Go to a good nursery or your public library and
look at a book on pruning trees. Peaches thrive on very heavy pruning.

As soon as you finish pruning, spray the entire tree with copper
sulfate. You might even use a mixture of copper sulfate and dormant oil.
To ensure proper spreading and sticking of the spray, add some liquid
soap to the mix. Be sure to coat all of the smaller branches and twigs
and all growth and flower buds.

Watch the tree carefully. As soon as flower buds swell and show a bit
of color (dark pink, almost red), spray again with the same mix. This
should be done before any flowers open and any leaves appear. Not only
will such timing reduce the likelihood of leaf curl, shot hole, and
brown rot, but it will also reduce any impact on the bees that will
visit the flowers to pollinate them and thus create fruit.

For either the first or second spraying, if it rains within 48 hours
after spraying, spray again (but not after the tree starts to flower or
leaf-out, when it will be too late).

No, the spray is NOT natural or organic. You are trying to grow
something -- a hybridized plant -- that is not found in nature, possibly
in an area where its natural ancestors would never have grown. When you
grow unnatural plants in an environment that is unnatural for their
ancestors, you must expect to use some unnatural methods.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

On May 24, 8:10*pm, "Zootal" wrote:
"brooklyn1" wrote in message

...







"Zootal" wrote in message
m...
Please look at these pics. This is a peach tree I planted 3 years ago.
Last year it had a touch of what appeared to be leaf curl, and the damage
was minimal. This year, the tree appears to be all but dead:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...hTree/images/D....

Poor thing looks very neglected/abused, it's never been pruned... but for
sure someone hit it with a dose of defoliant of some sort, maybe a good
blast of over spray. *Even if it lives it'll never give a decent crop..
Why do foks plant in such unprotected places, on land that makes a junk
yard appear aesthetic, and then expect their plants to thrive let alone
live... it's very likley been planted in contamintaed soil, I bet Super
Fund land. That property looks absolutely disgusting.. it's best that poor
tree dies a quick death. *Do NOT plant anything else there, except you!

Did I mention that my property used to be a storage site for radioactive
waste? I put this tree right over a green glowing spot. I figured the extra
light would be good for it...- Hide quoted text -

You want mostly red or blue light for plants.

Tree looks to me like it wants potassium. Either
it's not available, or the roots (and maybe trunk) are
having trouble taking it up. I'd guess the tree
was either overwatered or it's been eaten by borers --
look for six or seven very neatly spaced tunnels
where the trunk breaks in half.

On 5/24/2009 6:13 PM, David E. Ross wrote:
On 5/24/2009 12:24 PM, Zootal wrote:
Please look at these pics. This is a peach tree I planted 3 years ago. Last
year it had a touch of what appeared to be leaf curl, and the damage was
minimal. This year, the tree appears to be all but dead:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5405.JPG
http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5408.JPG
http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5409.JPG

Is there any reason to not just remove the tree now? Is it possible that it
can survive?

It might indeed survive this year into next; but if this happens again,
it will no longer survive.

Early next year, prune it. If you don't get snow in the winter, prune
it January. If you do get snow, prune it as soon as you think there
will be no more snow. Go to a good nursery or your public library and
look at a book on pruning trees. Peaches thrive on very heavy pruning.

As soon as you finish pruning, spray the entire tree with copper
sulfate. You might even use a mixture of copper sulfate and dormant oil.
To ensure proper spreading and sticking of the spray, add some liquid
soap to the mix. Be sure to coat all of the smaller branches and twigs
and all growth and flower buds.

Watch the tree carefully. As soon as flower buds swell and show a bit
of color (dark pink, almost red), spray again with the same mix. This
should be done before any flowers open and any leaves appear. Not only
will such timing reduce the likelihood of leaf curl, shot hole, and
brown rot, but it will also reduce any impact on the bees that will
visit the flowers to pollinate them and thus create fruit.

For either the first or second spraying, if it rains within 48 hours
after spraying, spray again (but not after the tree starts to flower or
leaf-out, when it will be too late).

No, the spray is NOT natural or organic. You are trying to grow
something -- a hybridized plant -- that is not found in nature, possibly
in an area where its natural ancestors would never have grown. When you
grow unnatural plants in an environment that is unnatural for their
ancestors, you must expect to use some unnatural methods.


By the way, because of the weakened condition of the tree, you should
remove any immature fruit you can find, both this year and next.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

"Billy" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"brooklyn1" wrote:

"Zootal" wrote in message
...
Please look at these pics. This is a peach tree I planted 3 years ago.
Last year it had a touch of what appeared to be leaf curl, and the
damage
was minimal. This year, the tree appears to be all but dead:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...mages/DSCF5405
.JPG

Poor thing looks very neglected/abused, it's never been pruned... but for
sure someone hit it with a dose of defoliant of some sort, maybe a good
blast of over spray. Even if it lives it'll never give a decent crop.
Why
do foks plant in such unprotected places, on land that makes a junk yard
appear aesthetic, and then expect their plants to thrive let alone
live...
it's very likley been planted in contamintaed soil, I bet Super Fund
land.
That property looks absolutely disgusting.. it's best that poor tree dies
a
quick death. Do NOT plant anything else there, except you!

Sorry about that, apparently Shelly got off his leash. He hasn't been
well, you know. He's probably off to chew on a chair leg now.

I'm sure that what our sick little boy was trying to say is, "It looks
bad. Isn't there a nursery (Crescent City isn't it?) near you to help
with the diagnosis? How warm has it gotten there? What is the soil like
(wet, dry?). The tree next to it seems to be doing OK, what kind is it?
Have you given the tree a good side dose of aged manure? (Work in with a
rake.)
--

:-)

Winter was not especially cold - no hard freezes this year, the usual amount
of rain (meaning lots and lots of rain). Spring rains stopped early this
year, we have had two weeks of dry and sun, and no rain in the forecast.
This is the time of the year when the rains stop, usually within a week or
less, and the sun comes out to stay. Nights are in 50s, maybe dipping into
40s, daytime temp is 60s and 70s. A couple of upper 70s/lower 80 days, but
not too many. So, the soil has been quite wet but is now drying. I planted
40 tomatoes outside yesterday, and am seriously considering putting out
peppers and eggplants as the forecast is for sun and warm for at least the
next week.

The tree to the right of it in the pic is a cherry tree that seems to be
happy. All of my other peaches have a mild case of what appears to be peach
leaf curl, which isn't unusual this time of year, but none of them have ever
had it this bad. My apples hare happy, my pears grow like crazy here. And I
have a truck load of mushroom compost that I'm going to put down around all
of my trees this week.

"David E. Ross" wrote in message
et...
On 5/24/2009 6:13 PM, David E. Ross wrote:
On 5/24/2009 12:24 PM, Zootal wrote:
Please look at these pics. This is a peach tree I planted 3 years ago.
Last
year it had a touch of what appeared to be leaf curl, and the damage was
minimal. This year, the tree appears to be all but dead:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5405.JPG
http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5408.JPG
http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5409.JPG

Is there any reason to not just remove the tree now? Is it possible that
it
can survive?

It might indeed survive this year into next; but if this happens again,
it will no longer survive.

Early next year, prune it. If you don't get snow in the winter, prune
it January. If you do get snow, prune it as soon as you think there
will be no more snow. Go to a good nursery or your public library and
look at a book on pruning trees. Peaches thrive on very heavy pruning.

As soon as you finish pruning, spray the entire tree with copper
sulfate. You might even use a mixture of copper sulfate and dormant oil.
To ensure proper spreading and sticking of the spray, add some liquid
soap to the mix. Be sure to coat all of the smaller branches and twigs
and all growth and flower buds.

Watch the tree carefully. As soon as flower buds swell and show a bit
of color (dark pink, almost red), spray again with the same mix. This
should be done before any flowers open and any leaves appear. Not only
will such timing reduce the likelihood of leaf curl, shot hole, and
brown rot, but it will also reduce any impact on the bees that will
visit the flowers to pollinate them and thus create fruit.

For either the first or second spraying, if it rains within 48 hours
after spraying, spray again (but not after the tree starts to flower or
leaf-out, when it will be too late).

No, the spray is NOT natural or organic. You are trying to grow
something -- a hybridized plant -- that is not found in nature, possibly
in an area where its natural ancestors would never have grown. When you
grow unnatural plants in an environment that is unnatural for their
ancestors, you must expect to use some unnatural methods.


By the way, because of the weakened condition of the tree, you should
remove any immature fruit you can find, both this year and next.


Will do, many tnx for information. sigh Wish me luck...

Is there anything I can do now other then weed and water it?

In article ,
"David E. Ross" wrote:

On 5/24/2009 12:24 PM, Zootal wrote:
Please look at these pics. This is a peach tree I planted 3 years ago. Last
year it had a touch of what appeared to be leaf curl, and the damage was
minimal. This year, the tree appears to be all but dead:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...mages/DSCF5405
.JPG
http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...mages/DSCF5408
.JPG
http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...mages/DSCF5409
.JPG

Is there any reason to not just remove the tree now? Is it possible that it
can survive?

It might indeed survive this year into next; but if this happens again,
it will no longer survive.
I still think you should take a couple of leaves and your pictures to
the nearest reputable nursery, and see if they can figure out your
problem.

Early next year, prune it. If you don't get snow in the winter, prune
it January. If you do get snow, prune it as soon as you think there
will be no more snow. Go to a good nursery or your public library and
look at a book on pruning trees. Peaches thrive on very heavy pruning.

My peaches are the dwarf variety, and they rarely get pruned, and they
do well. Maybe I'm just the exception.
As soon as you finish pruning, spray the entire tree with copper
sulfate. You might even use a mixture of copper sulfate and dormant oil.
To ensure proper spreading and sticking of the spray, add some liquid
soap to the mix. Be sure to coat all of the smaller branches and twigs
and all growth and flower buds.

Watch the tree carefully. As soon as flower buds swell and show a bit
of color (dark pink, almost red), spray again with the same mix. This
should be done before any flowers open and any leaves appear. Not only
will such timing reduce the likelihood of leaf curl, shot hole, and
brown rot, but it will also reduce any impact on the bees that will
visit the flowers to pollinate them and thus create fruit.

For either the first or second spraying, if it rains within 48 hours
after spraying, spray again (but not after the tree starts to flower or
leaf-out, when it will be too late).

No, the spray is NOT natural or organic. You are trying to grow
something -- a hybridized plant -- that is not found in nature, possibly
in an area where its natural ancestors would never have grown. When you
grow unnatural plants in an environment that is unnatural for their
ancestors, you must expect to use some unnatural methods.
I didn't find any information on peach hybrids. Peaches appear to br the
result of standard selection for traits. Anyone have different
information?

The dormant spray doesn't sound too scary.
http://www.allwoodwork.com/tips/dormantoilspray.htm
Dormant Oil Spray
From GardenGuides.com
Dormant oil is a nontoxic spray to control sucking and chewing insects
in the egg stage before they can do any damage. Use dormant oil on
trees, shrubs and evergreens in early spring while they are still
dormant, before buds develop. You can buy the spray from any garden
supply store or make your own from mineral oil and soap using the
following recipe:
1 gallon mineral oil
1 pound oil-based soap
1/2 gallon water
Combine all ingredients, boil, and mix very well. Dilute 1:20 with water
and use immediately because the ingredients separate quickly.
Spray on a day when the temperature is above 40 degrees and you are not
expecting a freeze for at least 24 hours. Drench the branches of your
shrubs and trees thoroughly - it's impossible to overdo it.
For citrus trees, you should buy a special dormant oil from your garden
supply store. Citrus leaves can be damaged by the film that remains on
the leaves.

The copper sulfate could be tricky. Don't spray when there are bee
around. Keep away from ponds and water ways.
http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles...otophos/copper
-sulfate-ext.html

I still suggest that you consult with a college Ag Department, a Mater
Gardener, or a competent nursery before you start shot gunning a problem
that you may make worse through ignorance.
--

- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being
is now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the
moment of conception until death." - Rachel Carson

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=En2TzBE0lp4

http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1050688.html

In article ,
"Zootal" wrote:

"brooklyn1" wrote in message
...

"Zootal" wrote in message
...
Please look at these pics. This is a peach tree I planted 3 years ago.
Last year it had a touch of what appeared to be leaf curl, and the damage
was minimal. This year, the tree appears to be all but dead:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...images/DSCF540
5.JPG

Poor thing looks very neglected/abused, it's never been pruned... but for
sure someone hit it with a dose of defoliant of some sort, maybe a good
blast of over spray. Even if it lives it'll never give a decent crop.
Why do foks plant in such unprotected places, on land that makes a junk
yard appear aesthetic, and then expect their plants to thrive let alone
live... it's very likley been planted in contamintaed soil, I bet Super
Fund land. That property looks absolutely disgusting.. it's best that poor
tree dies a quick death. Do NOT plant anything else there, except you!



Did I mention that my property used to be a storage site for radioactive
waste? I put this tree right over a green glowing spot. I figured the extra
light would be good for it...

Ay carumba. Vámonos muchachos.

Your kinda far south for Hanford.
--

- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being
is now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the
moment of conception until death." - Rachel Carson

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=En2TzBE0lp4

http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1050688.html

I think it is leaf curl and/or fire blight. Mine are dead too. sheesh. Ingrid

On Sun, 24 May 2009 12:24:14 -0700, "Zootal" wrote:

Please look at these pics. This is a peach tree I planted 3 years ago. Last
year it had a touch of what appeared to be leaf curl, and the damage was
minimal. This year, the tree appears to be all but dead:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5405.JPG
http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5408.JPG
http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5409.JPG

Is there any reason to not just remove the tree now? Is it possible that it
can survive?


Somewhere between zone 5 and 6 tucked along the shore of Lake Michigan
on the council grounds of the Fox, Mascouten, Potawatomi, and Winnebago

On 5/24/2009 8:43 PM, Zootal wrote:
"David E. Ross" wrote in message
et...
On 5/24/2009 6:13 PM, David E. Ross wrote:
On 5/24/2009 12:24 PM, Zootal wrote:
Please look at these pics. This is a peach tree I planted 3 years ago.
Last
year it had a touch of what appeared to be leaf curl, and the damage was
minimal. This year, the tree appears to be all but dead:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5405.JPG
http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5408.JPG
http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...s/DSCF5409.JPG

Is there any reason to not just remove the tree now? Is it possible that
it
can survive?
It might indeed survive this year into next; but if this happens again,
it will no longer survive.

Early next year, prune it. If you don't get snow in the winter, prune
it January. If you do get snow, prune it as soon as you think there
will be no more snow. Go to a good nursery or your public library and
look at a book on pruning trees. Peaches thrive on very heavy pruning.

As soon as you finish pruning, spray the entire tree with copper
sulfate. You might even use a mixture of copper sulfate and dormant oil.
To ensure proper spreading and sticking of the spray, add some liquid
soap to the mix. Be sure to coat all of the smaller branches and twigs
and all growth and flower buds.

Watch the tree carefully. As soon as flower buds swell and show a bit
of color (dark pink, almost red), spray again with the same mix. This
should be done before any flowers open and any leaves appear. Not only
will such timing reduce the likelihood of leaf curl, shot hole, and
brown rot, but it will also reduce any impact on the bees that will
visit the flowers to pollinate them and thus create fruit.

For either the first or second spraying, if it rains within 48 hours
after spraying, spray again (but not after the tree starts to flower or
leaf-out, when it will be too late).

No, the spray is NOT natural or organic. You are trying to grow
something -- a hybridized plant -- that is not found in nature, possibly
in an area where its natural ancestors would never have grown. When you
grow unnatural plants in an environment that is unnatural for their
ancestors, you must expect to use some unnatural methods.

By the way, because of the weakened condition of the tree, you should
remove any immature fruit you can find, both this year and next.


Will do, many tnx for information. sigh Wish me luck...

Is there anything I can do now other then weed and water it?



It's not too late to feed it. Lightly broadcast some generic lawn food
under its branch spread, keeping the fertilizer away from the trunk
itself.

One other problem afflicting peach trees is the flat-headed borer. This
bores under the bark in the trunk and larger branches. The bark then
blisters up and eventually peels away. While some sprays are
recommended as preventatives, I've found them to be on;y partially
effective. Borers have contributed to the decline of my own peach tree.

However, peach trees are not very long-lived, so the borers are not the
only cause of my tree's decline. Commercial growers often remove and
replace their trees after about 15 years. I decided to have mine
removed as soon as the current crop has ripened and been eaten. I'll
have the stump ground out in a way that allows me to plant a new peach
tree in the same spot. That will be the third peach I've had in that
location since I planted my first 35 years ago. I plant to investigate
whether imidacloprid -- a systemic used as a soil drench -- would be
effective against flat-headed borers and, if so, when to apply it.

(Note: Imidacloprid is a problem for bees in only two instances. It
should not be used before flowering as it might make nectar toxic. Also
during flowering, it should not be applied through irrigation systems
where bees might drink. I would instead apply it as a drench that soaks
into the soil within a minute or two, leaving nothing for the bees to
drink. It is safe for use on food plants used by mammals, including
humans.)

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

Seeing other trees next to this one, it is unlikely bad soil. That
thing who posted the property is disgusting is ridiculous. They are
finding now in peach orchards that by allowing certain grasses and
other forbs to grow between the trees has served to protect the
trees, and many are now using living mulches.

Actually, the overgrown land in the pic is the lot behind me, which I do not
own. Mine is work in progress, but it's at least a but tidier . My pear
and apple trees are very happy, and I have a moderate veggie garden in the
middle of it all that for the most part does quite well. The soil is rich
and well drained.


Your trees next to the infected one may also become infected. Put
some very good compost under the surviving trees neaby and do not
plant another peach in that spot.

It has the appearance of peach leaf curl, as the peach tree next to the one
pictured has it too, but only a mild case. The one I took the pics of had a
very mild case of it last year, and it quickly grew out and was quite
vigorous. That is what surprises me - it did so well last year.

On May 24, 12:24 pm, "Zootal" wrote:
Please look at these pics. This is a peach tree I planted 3 years ago. Last
year it had a touch of what appeared to be leaf curl, and the damage was
minimal. This year, the tree appears to be all but dead:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2009/...hTree/images/D...

Is there any reason to not just remove the tree now? Is it possible that it
can survive?

Zoo
It is definitely Peach Leaf Curl. Photo 3 shows the twisted,
deformed,
curled light colored leaves that look blistered. This was a bad year
for
PLC here in Butte county too. Things started off OK then we had a
late
rain which just aggravated the condition. My dwarf Babcock Peach has
had many infestations in its 23 years, and has survived so far.

Be sure to rake up all the foliage that falls on the ground, keep it
cleaned
up until its all fallen off. You can even remove some of it by hand
if you
wish. DO NOT compost it, get it into the trash bin and removed.
Broadcast and then water in Epsom Salts. (next year do this at the
time
its blooming) Then give it a good spreading of alfalfa pellets and
water them in.
Mulch the tree well. (again do this every spring)

I think the tree will recover, but it will take awhile. I don't think
much fruit
will develop, but Yes, I'd remove any that does.
Next Fall, rake up all leaves, and get rid of them completely.
Some peaches are more resistant to PLC than others. Do look for borer
holes,
since they are more likely to attack a weakened tree. If you find
holes, run a
wire down inside to kill any larva inside. Check every so often all
summer.

Good luck
Emilie
NorCal