Hello all:

I have a couple, of Vanda's arriving in the mail this week and wondering the
best way of potting these orchids. I was planning on using vanda baskets and
pot using a coarse bark/and charcoal. ANy other suggestion or tips. Should I
wire the Vanda's to the basket??

Assuming the supplier is sending decent plants, you'll have lots of roots to
contend with. I suggest that you soak the plants for about 30 minutes in
tepid water. It will be good for the plants and soften the roots a bit.

I then hold the plant next to the basket in the orientation I am shooting
for, so I can see what roots need to be fed through which gaps in the slats.
Once you have done so, you have a couple of anchoring options. I use string
or fishing line to brace the plant between the "legs" of the wire basket
hanger, but I have also seen plants with the base twist-tied to the bottom
of the basket. I prefer the former as it is removable.

I also avoid mixing bark with the charcoal, as it will tend to decompose.
If I think a plant needs more moisture for the particular growing
conditions, I add medium charcoal to the mix to "densify" it a bit.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Artwork, Books and Lots of Free Info!


"Bryan" wrote in message
news:8TNYe.537413$5V4.362362@pd7tw3no...
Hello all:

I have a couple, of Vanda's arriving in the mail this week and wondering
the best way of potting these orchids. I was planning on using vanda
baskets and pot using a coarse bark/and charcoal. ANy other suggestion or
tips. Should I wire the Vanda's to the basket??

Bryan: Where are you located? In warm, humid places (like here in South
Florida), vandas generally aren't "potted" at all. We grow them either
bareroot in a basket (wood is prettier initially but rots quickly; plastic
lasts a lot longer) or with no basket at all, just a modified S-hook type of
hanger.

If the plants are already in baskets, I wouldn't remove them, but if not, I
prefer the no-basket hanger [plants take up less room, are easier to move,
and don't grow into one another as much].
--
Kenni Judd
Juno Beach Orchids
http://www.jborchids.com
"Bryan" wrote in message
news:8TNYe.537413$5V4.362362@pd7tw3no...
Hello all:

I have a couple, of Vanda's arriving in the mail this week and wondering
the best way of potting these orchids. I was planning on using vanda
baskets and pot using a coarse bark/and charcoal. ANy other suggestion or
tips. Should I wire the Vanda's to the basket??

Bryan,

I live in the DC area and grow in a greenhouse. I keep my vandas and
relatives in wood baskets and sometimes put a couple chucks of large
cocohusk in the basket. There's not enough to keep the roots soggy but I
think the young plants appreciate the added humidity. Over time these piece
get knocked out or deteriorate. By that time the young plant has grow to
cling to the wood basket and gets established in its new environment.

If you are in a wet and humid climate this may not be necessary, but if you
grow indoors you might want to consider putting some cocohusk or a few
strips of moss in the basket until your new plant gets established.

Good Growing,
Gene



"Bryan" wrote in message
news:8TNYe.537413$5V4.362362@pd7tw3no...
Hello all:

I have a couple, of Vanda's arriving in the mail this week and wondering
the
best way of potting these orchids. I was planning on using vanda baskets
and
pot using a coarse bark/and charcoal. ANy other suggestion or tips. Should
I
wire the Vanda's to the basket??

Kenni, I have a V Paki that I dearly love but have allowed to almost die.
There are some old viable roots that I think I could get to start new roots,
but am unsure how to proceed to get them to do that. I'm tempted to douse
them with rootone but think that plain old high humidity and adequate
feeding should win the day. That usually kick starts any orchid if they
have a final living spark.

What (if anything) do you do when a vanda almost croaks?

K Barrett

"Kenni Judd" wrote in message
...
Bryan: Where are you located? In warm, humid places (like here in South
Florida), vandas generally aren't "potted" at all. We grow them either
bareroot in a basket (wood is prettier initially but rots quickly; plastic
lasts a lot longer) or with no basket at all, just a modified S-hook type
of
hanger.

If the plants are already in baskets, I wouldn't remove them, but if not,
I
prefer the no-basket hanger [plants take up less room, are easier to move,
and don't grow into one another as much].
--
Kenni Judd
Juno Beach Orchids
http://www.jborchids.com
"Bryan" wrote in message
news:8TNYe.537413$5V4.362362@pd7tw3no...
Hello all:

I have a couple, of Vanda's arriving in the mail this week and wondering
the best way of potting these orchids. I was planning on using vanda
baskets and pot using a coarse bark/and charcoal. ANy other suggestion
or
tips. Should I wire the Vanda's to the basket??

Hi Kenni:

I am in Western Canada, Vancouver more specifically. Weather is very much
like Seattle . I have my orchids growing in an enclosed balconey. Humidity
ranges from 45-75%, thanks to a aquarium close by. Temp ranges from 80 to 60
degrees. Lighting is by a North window and supplementd by a 400 watt Metal
Halide.

I am intrigued by the "S" hook type of hanger, do you have a pic or a link
you could forward.

I have seen some Vanda's at our Home Depot and they are grown in small
plastic basket and once the roots get a "grip" transplanted into a wooden 8"
basket.

I am a little perplexed by the best way to water Vanda's in a open basket
or just hanging, bring them down and soak in a bucket or spray the roots
with water??



"Kenni Judd" wrote in message
...
Bryan: Where are you located? In warm, humid places (like here in South
Florida), vandas generally aren't "potted" at all. We grow them either
bareroot in a basket (wood is prettier initially but rots quickly; plastic
lasts a lot longer) or with no basket at all, just a modified S-hook type
of hanger.

If the plants are already in baskets, I wouldn't remove them, but if not,
I prefer the no-basket hanger [plants take up less room, are easier to
move, and don't grow into one another as much].
--
Kenni Judd
Juno Beach Orchids
http://www.jborchids.com
"Bryan" wrote in message
news:8TNYe.537413$5V4.362362@pd7tw3no...
Hello all:

I have a couple, of Vanda's arriving in the mail this week and wondering
the best way of potting these orchids. I was planning on using vanda
baskets and pot using a coarse bark/and charcoal. ANy other suggestion or
tips. Should I wire the Vanda's to the basket??

Bryan,

I had a tall vanda that had leaned way over due to size and neglect, so I
chopped it off, made a "J" hook about 3 feet tall and suspended the plant
from it:

http://www.firstrays.com/Pictures_orchids/V_Fuch's_Indigo.jpg

It gets watered by overhead heavy misting and apparently likes it (Please
excuse the bad photo, it was a quick shot against a painted wall).

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Artwork, Books and Lots of Free Info!


"Bryan" wrote in message
news:2b7Ze.542506$5V4.62655@pd7tw3no...
Hi Kenni:

I am in Western Canada, Vancouver more specifically. Weather is very much
like Seattle . I have my orchids growing in an enclosed balconey. Humidity
ranges from 45-75%, thanks to a aquarium close by. Temp ranges from 80 to
60 degrees. Lighting is by a North window and supplementd by a 400 watt
Metal Halide.

I am intrigued by the "S" hook type of hanger, do you have a pic or a link
you could forward.

I have seen some Vanda's at our Home Depot and they are grown in small
plastic basket and once the roots get a "grip" transplanted into a wooden
8" basket.

I am a little perplexed by the best way to water Vanda's in a open basket
or just hanging, bring them down and soak in a bucket or spray the roots
with water??



"Kenni Judd" wrote in message
...
Bryan: Where are you located? In warm, humid places (like here in South
Florida), vandas generally aren't "potted" at all. We grow them either
bareroot in a basket (wood is prettier initially but rots quickly;
plastic lasts a lot longer) or with no basket at all, just a modified
S-hook type of hanger.

If the plants are already in baskets, I wouldn't remove them, but if not,
I prefer the no-basket hanger [plants take up less room, are easier to
move, and don't grow into one another as much].
--
Kenni Judd
Juno Beach Orchids
http://www.jborchids.com
"Bryan" wrote in message
news:8TNYe.537413$5V4.362362@pd7tw3no...
Hello all:

I have a couple, of Vanda's arriving in the mail this week and wondering
the best way of potting these orchids. I was planning on using vanda
baskets and pot using a coarse bark/and charcoal. ANy other suggestion
or tips. Should I wire the Vanda's to the basket??

Thanks Ray, great web site as well, I really like the info on fertilizing
and the online calculators.


"Ray" wrote in message
...
Assuming the supplier is sending decent plants, you'll have lots of roots
to contend with. I suggest that you soak the plants for about 30 minutes
in tepid water. It will be good for the plants and soften the roots a
bit.

I then hold the plant next to the basket in the orientation I am shooting
for, so I can see what roots need to be fed through which gaps in the
slats. Once you have done so, you have a couple of anchoring options. I
use string or fishing line to brace the plant between the "legs" of the
wire basket hanger, but I have also seen plants with the base twist-tied
to the bottom of the basket. I prefer the former as it is removable.

I also avoid mixing bark with the charcoal, as it will tend to decompose.
If I think a plant needs more moisture for the particular growing
conditions, I add medium charcoal to the mix to "densify" it a bit.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Artwork, Books and Lots of Free Info!


"Bryan" wrote in message
news:8TNYe.537413$5V4.362362@pd7tw3no...
Hello all:

I have a couple, of Vanda's arriving in the mail this week and wondering
the best way of potting these orchids. I was planning on using vanda
baskets and pot using a coarse bark/and charcoal. ANy other suggestion or
tips. Should I wire the Vanda's to the basket??

Hi, K: Although most of our vandaceous are grown without medium, there are
few that seem to need a little. I've not grown V. Paki, so can't speak
specifically to that one, but I would not recommend heavy feeding for any
"sick" plant. Humidity, yes, the more the better, and a root stimulant
would not be a bad thing.

We did try an experiment this year with some Rnctm. Sultanah Zenariah.
These looked great when I bought them at Redlands in May 2004, but promptly
dropped tons of leaves, leaving a lot of ugly bare stem, when I got them
home. What we did this spring was gently peel the stems of the dry brown
leaf remnants, and then wrap them with wet sphagnum that had been soaked in
a Superthrive solution (with plastic wrap to hold it on). I unwrapped them
today (about 4 months later) and found new roots high on the bare stems on
about 80% of the "subjects." But it will still be another year before I can
top them and have decent-looking saleable plants ... Kenni


"K Barrett" wrote in message
...
Kenni, I have a V Paki that I dearly love but have allowed to almost die.
There are some old viable roots that I think I could get to start new
roots,
but am unsure how to proceed to get them to do that. I'm tempted to douse
them with rootone but think that plain old high humidity and adequate
feeding should win the day. That usually kick starts any orchid if they
have a final living spark.

What (if anything) do you do when a vanda almost croaks?

K Barrett

Bryan: Sorry, I don't think I have a pic of the hanger, but it's not
complicated. Regular s-hook at the top, much smaller hook at the bottom,
1/2" or less -- just big enough to hook around a nice fat root. If your
humidity is up around that 75% most of the time, you could do your vandas
this way easily; if it's down around that 45% for much of the time, you
probably should go with pots and coarse medium.

For watering of open baskets or plants bare on hangers: the soak in a
bucket is really great if you only have a couple of plants. Thing is, you
really should change the water between each plant to avoid potential spread
of pests or disease. If spraying, you need to water until all the roots
turn green, all along their lengths. This can take a while, and make a
substantial puddle on your enclosed floor... We run our overhead sprinklers
for at least 12 minutes (and sometimes do a second round). Kenni

"Bryan" wrote in message
news:2b7Ze.542506$5V4.62655@pd7tw3no...
Hi Kenni:

I am in Western Canada, Vancouver more specifically. Weather is very much
like Seattle . I have my orchids growing in an enclosed balconey. Humidity
ranges from 45-75%, thanks to a aquarium close by. Temp ranges from 80 to
60 degrees. Lighting is by a North window and supplementd by a 400 watt
Metal Halide.

I am intrigued by the "S" hook type of hanger, do you have a pic or a link
you could forward.

I have seen some Vanda's at our Home Depot and they are grown in small
plastic basket and once the roots get a "grip" transplanted into a wooden
8" basket.

I am a little perplexed by the best way to water Vanda's in a open basket
or just hanging, bring them down and soak in a bucket or spray the roots
with water??

Thanks Kenni!

K

"Kenni Judd" wrote in message
...
Hi, K: Although most of our vandaceous are grown without medium, there
are
few that seem to need a little. I've not grown V. Paki, so can't speak
specifically to that one, but I would not recommend heavy feeding for any
"sick" plant. Humidity, yes, the more the better, and a root stimulant
would not be a bad thing.

We did try an experiment this year with some Rnctm. Sultanah Zenariah.
These looked great when I bought them at Redlands in May 2004, but
promptly
dropped tons of leaves, leaving a lot of ugly bare stem, when I got them
home. What we did this spring was gently peel the stems of the dry brown
leaf remnants, and then wrap them with wet sphagnum that had been soaked
in
a Superthrive solution (with plastic wrap to hold it on). I unwrapped
them
today (about 4 months later) and found new roots high on the bare stems on
about 80% of the "subjects." But it will still be another year before I
can
top them and have decent-looking saleable plants ... Kenni


"K Barrett" wrote in message
...
Kenni, I have a V Paki that I dearly love but have allowed to almost
die.
There are some old viable roots that I think I could get to start new
roots,
but am unsure how to proceed to get them to do that. I'm tempted to
douse
them with rootone but think that plain old high humidity and adequate
feeding should win the day. That usually kick starts any orchid if
they
have a final living spark.

What (if anything) do you do when a vanda almost croaks?

K Barrett

Thanks Kenni:

I didn't realize "spray the roots until they turn green" great tip.
Humidity probably averages around 60%, probably more that winter is coming
since I will have the window closed all the time, so i think I will
experiment hanging without baskets.


"Kenni Judd" wrote in message
...
Bryan: Sorry, I don't think I have a pic of the hanger, but it's not
complicated. Regular s-hook at the top, much smaller hook at the bottom,
1/2" or less -- just big enough to hook around a nice fat root. If your
humidity is up around that 75% most of the time, you could do your vandas
this way easily; if it's down around that 45% for much of the time, you
probably should go with pots and coarse medium.

For watering of open baskets or plants bare on hangers: the soak in a
bucket is really great if you only have a couple of plants. Thing is, you
really should change the water between each plant to avoid potential
spread of pests or disease. If spraying, you need to water until all the
roots turn green, all along their lengths. This can take a while, and
make a substantial puddle on your enclosed floor... We run our overhead
sprinklers for at least 12 minutes (and sometimes do a second round).
Kenni

"Bryan" wrote in message
news:2b7Ze.542506$5V4.62655@pd7tw3no...
Hi Kenni:

I am in Western Canada, Vancouver more specifically. Weather is very much
like Seattle . I have my orchids growing in an enclosed balconey.
Humidity ranges from 45-75%, thanks to a aquarium close by. Temp ranges
from 80 to 60 degrees. Lighting is by a North window and supplementd by a
400 watt Metal Halide.

I am intrigued by the "S" hook type of hanger, do you have a pic or a
link you could forward.

I have seen some Vanda's at our Home Depot and they are grown in small
plastic basket and once the roots get a "grip" transplanted into a wooden
8" basket.

I am a little perplexed by the best way to water Vanda's in a open
basket or just hanging, bring them down and soak in a bucket or spray the
roots with water??

Bryan ) wrote:
: Hi Kenni:

: I am in Western Canada, Vancouver more specifically. Weather is very much
: like Seattle . I have my orchids growing in an enclosed balconey. Humidity
: ranges from 45-75%, thanks to a aquarium close by. Temp ranges from 80 to 60
: degrees. Lighting is by a North window and supplementd by a 400 watt Metal
: Halide.

Bryan,

I grow Vandas indoors like you and I have a couple of them potted up in
Aliflor (which is an expanded clay product). The Aliflor holds just the
right amount of moisture around the roots so they don't rot. It's difficult
to provide the quantity of moisture they need when mounted in a basket
indoors. I have a couple of Vandas that are in baskets and they are a lot
harder to maintain than the potted ones. Root development is significantly
greater in the potted Vandas versus the ones in baskets.

Dave

Kenni Judd ) wrote:
: Hi, K: Although most of our vandaceous are grown without medium, there are
: few that seem to need a little. I've not grown V. Paki, so can't speak
: specifically to that one, but I would not recommend heavy feeding for any
: "sick" plant. Humidity, yes, the more the better, and a root stimulant
: would not be a bad thing.

Hi Kenni,

I have the same problem as Kay except it's with a Vascostylus and not a Vanda.
I sprayed it with a single application of Superthrive but nothing happened.
That's been a successful trick I've used in the past on other orchids to
stimulate root development but it didn't work here. It seems like applying
the Superthrive for a longer period of time is what has worked for you.

I'm also wondering if there's anything unique about Vascostylus culture-wise
that distinguishes them from other Vandids? It sure seems a lot more stubborn
than my other Vandas and Ascdas.

Dave

"Dave Sheehy" wrote in message
...
Kenni Judd ) wrote:
: Hi, K: Although most of our vandaceous are grown without medium, there
are
: few that seem to need a little. I've not grown V. Paki, so can't speak
: specifically to that one, but I would not recommend heavy feeding for
any
: "sick" plant. Humidity, yes, the more the better, and a root stimulant
: would not be a bad thing.

Hi Kenni,

I have the same problem as Kay except it's with a Vascostylus and not a
Vanda.
I sprayed it with a single application of Superthrive but nothing
happened.
That's been a successful trick I've used in the past on other orchids to
stimulate root development but it didn't work here. It seems like applying
the Superthrive for a longer period of time is what has worked for you.

I'm also wondering if there's anything unique about Vascostylus
culture-wise
that distinguishes them from other Vandids? It sure seems a lot more
stubborn
than my other Vandas and Ascdas.

Dave


Yeah, I have trouble with them too. (the Vascostylises) I'll try Kenni's
air-layering tehnique and see if this works. I've been tempted to try it in
the past, and just to chicken or lazy to proceed.

Fingers crossed

K