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#1
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New member
Hello, my name is Sharon and I live in MN zone 4 is what they say. I am
new to roses and have purchased a few roses from Veseys and I am awaiting their arrival. I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual. I bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing ploy? I also read that Rugosas do not like to be sprayed with insecticides or liquid fertilizer. Can a person put a liquid mixed fertilizer around the base after watering or should you water it in? Thanks for any help and I sure do love this group. I have been reading for about a month now. Sharon in MN |
#2
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New member
Welcome to the group.
I grow Henrey Kelsy and William Baffin in that group. Baffin grows HUGE and is almost indestructible. Likes water regularly, as do all roses. Kelsey is more creeper so you have to train and support the flexible canes. I also grow Stanwell perp. in a sort of I can't get anything else to grow that spot kinda way. I don't grow too many rugosas. They grow too slowly for my taste. You are right they don't take to sprays. They are mostly disease free but some of the hybrids do get diseases. As far as fertilizers I think the recommendation for a long time on this group has been to use time release pellet fertlizers like osmocote. The other recommendation is to go to fish emulsion. If you can get over the stinkiness (which just lasts a day) I highly recommend it. I only have to feed 2-3 times a year. -- Theo in KC Z5 "Sharon Capps" wrote in message ... Hello, my name is Sharon and I live in MN zone 4 is what they say. I am new to roses and have purchased a few roses from Veseys and I am awaiting their arrival. I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual. I bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing ploy? I also read that Rugosas do not like to be sprayed with insecticides or liquid fertilizer. Can a person put a liquid mixed fertilizer around the base after watering or should you water it in? Thanks for any help and I sure do love this group. I have been reading for about a month now. Sharon in MN |
#3
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New member
Welcome to the group.
I grow Henrey Kelsy and William Baffin in that group. Baffin grows HUGE and is almost indestructible. Likes water regularly, as do all roses. Kelsey is more creeper so you have to train and support the flexible canes. I also grow Stanwell perp. in a sort of I can't get anything else to grow that spot kinda way. I don't grow too many rugosas. They grow too slowly for my taste. You are right they don't take to sprays. They are mostly disease free but some of the hybrids do get diseases. As far as fertilizers I think the recommendation for a long time on this group has been to use time release pellet fertlizers like osmocote. The other recommendation is to go to fish emulsion. If you can get over the stinkiness (which just lasts a day) I highly recommend it. I only have to feed 2-3 times a year. -- Theo in KC Z5 "Sharon Capps" wrote in message ... Hello, my name is Sharon and I live in MN zone 4 is what they say. I am new to roses and have purchased a few roses from Veseys and I am awaiting their arrival. I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual. I bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing ploy? I also read that Rugosas do not like to be sprayed with insecticides or liquid fertilizer. Can a person put a liquid mixed fertilizer around the base after watering or should you water it in? Thanks for any help and I sure do love this group. I have been reading for about a month now. Sharon in MN |
#4
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New member
Welcome to the group.
I grow Henrey Kelsy and William Baffin in that group. Baffin grows HUGE and is almost indestructible. Likes water regularly, as do all roses. Kelsey is more creeper so you have to train and support the flexible canes. I also grow Stanwell perp. in a sort of I can't get anything else to grow that spot kinda way. I don't grow too many rugosas. They grow too slowly for my taste. You are right they don't take to sprays. They are mostly disease free but some of the hybrids do get diseases. As far as fertilizers I think the recommendation for a long time on this group has been to use time release pellet fertlizers like osmocote. The other recommendation is to go to fish emulsion. If you can get over the stinkiness (which just lasts a day) I highly recommend it. I only have to feed 2-3 times a year. -- Theo in KC Z5 "Sharon Capps" wrote in message ... Hello, my name is Sharon and I live in MN zone 4 is what they say. I am new to roses and have purchased a few roses from Veseys and I am awaiting their arrival. I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual. I bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing ploy? I also read that Rugosas do not like to be sprayed with insecticides or liquid fertilizer. Can a person put a liquid mixed fertilizer around the base after watering or should you water it in? Thanks for any help and I sure do love this group. I have been reading for about a month now. Sharon in MN |
#5
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New member
Welcome to the group.
I grow Henrey Kelsy and William Baffin in that group. Baffin grows HUGE and is almost indestructible. Likes water regularly, as do all roses. Kelsey is more creeper so you have to train and support the flexible canes. I also grow Stanwell perp. in a sort of I can't get anything else to grow that spot kinda way. I don't grow too many rugosas. They grow too slowly for my taste. You are right they don't take to sprays. They are mostly disease free but some of the hybrids do get diseases. As far as fertilizers I think the recommendation for a long time on this group has been to use time release pellet fertlizers like osmocote. The other recommendation is to go to fish emulsion. If you can get over the stinkiness (which just lasts a day) I highly recommend it. I only have to feed 2-3 times a year. -- Theo in KC Z5 "Sharon Capps" wrote in message ... Hello, my name is Sharon and I live in MN zone 4 is what they say. I am new to roses and have purchased a few roses from Veseys and I am awaiting their arrival. I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual. I bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing ploy? I also read that Rugosas do not like to be sprayed with insecticides or liquid fertilizer. Can a person put a liquid mixed fertilizer around the base after watering or should you water it in? Thanks for any help and I sure do love this group. I have been reading for about a month now. Sharon in MN |
#6
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New member
Theo wrote:
Welcome to the group. As far as fertilizers I think the recommendation for a long time on this group has been to use time release pellet fertlizers like osmocote. The other recommendation is to go to fish emulsion. If you can get over the stinkiness (which just lasts a day) I highly recommend it. I only have to feed 2-3 times a year. -- Theo Thank you Theo. I read earlier about using compost and then put alfalfa meal, epson salts, blood meal and osmocote time release on top of the compost. Water in with water and fish emulsion. Do you do this all at the same time or spread it out? Would this much stuff harm new plantings? Also, what kind of things are used for mulch and how deep do you apply it? I was told in very cold climates that I should plant the bud union about an inch under ground. Is this correct or should the bud union be above ground? I guess that is more than enough questions for now. Thanks again Theo for the welcome. Sharon in MN in KC Z5 "Sharon Capps" wrote in message ... Hello, my name is Sharon and I live in MN zone 4 is what they say. I am new to roses and have purchased a few roses from Veseys and I am awaiting their arrival. I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual. I bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing ploy? I also read that Rugosas do not like to be sprayed with insecticides or liquid fertilizer. Can a person put a liquid mixed fertilizer around the base after watering or should you water it in? Thanks for any help and I sure do love this group. I have been reading for about a month now. Sharon in MN |
#7
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New member
Theo wrote:
Welcome to the group. As far as fertilizers I think the recommendation for a long time on this group has been to use time release pellet fertlizers like osmocote. The other recommendation is to go to fish emulsion. If you can get over the stinkiness (which just lasts a day) I highly recommend it. I only have to feed 2-3 times a year. -- Theo Thank you Theo. I read earlier about using compost and then put alfalfa meal, epson salts, blood meal and osmocote time release on top of the compost. Water in with water and fish emulsion. Do you do this all at the same time or spread it out? Would this much stuff harm new plantings? Also, what kind of things are used for mulch and how deep do you apply it? I was told in very cold climates that I should plant the bud union about an inch under ground. Is this correct or should the bud union be above ground? I guess that is more than enough questions for now. Thanks again Theo for the welcome. Sharon in MN in KC Z5 "Sharon Capps" wrote in message ... Hello, my name is Sharon and I live in MN zone 4 is what they say. I am new to roses and have purchased a few roses from Veseys and I am awaiting their arrival. I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual. I bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing ploy? I also read that Rugosas do not like to be sprayed with insecticides or liquid fertilizer. Can a person put a liquid mixed fertilizer around the base after watering or should you water it in? Thanks for any help and I sure do love this group. I have been reading for about a month now. Sharon in MN |
#8
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New member
Thank you Theo. I read earlier about using compost and then put alfalfa
meal, epson salts, blood meal and osmocote time release on top of the compost. Water in with water and fish emulsion. Do you do this all at the same time or spread it out? Would this much stuff harm new plantings? Also, what kind of things are used for mulch and how deep do you apply it? I was told in very cold climates that I should plant the bud union about an inch under ground. Is this correct or should the bud union be above ground? I guess that is more than enough questions for now. Thanks again That sounds more like a planting fert. advice. They all do different things. The Epsom salts supposedly encourage blooming and basal growth. The blood meal legitimately claims to put phosphorus where the plant can get it at but it has to be place at the bottom of the hole before planting as soil percolation weakens its effectiveness. Osmocote is good but needs to be scratched in and its been some years since I could get near the base of some of my roses with out it becoming a blood sport. No, I've held my nose and completely converted to fish emulsion. Sounds like a shameless plug but it does have all the nutrients including all the micro stuff in a form the plant can readily absorb and it breaks down slowly over months. Yes excessive chemical fertilization will kill immature/establishing bushes. Typically you apply the fert before watering in the bush. 2-3 gallons should do it. Mulch. Ah yes! reams have been written on this subject and there doesn't seem to be any consensus. Everything from wood chips to straw to peanut shells to cocoa shells to stone chips to char coal to Lucerne Hay(don't ask me what that is!!) has been promoted here. I'm sure they all work. I grow about 130+ roses and what has been cheapest for me is to drive down to the city mulch station and pick up a free load of lightly composted wood chips in my truck. Yes there is some plastic stuff and some stones in there but after a rain shower you can't differentiate between this and a $3 a bag stuff @ home depot. You live in a considerably colder region than mine so please take my advice with a pinch of salt. Some one in your region may know better. Bud union depth has also been debated with no clear consensus. There are positives and negative to burying the bud union. My opinion is roses are too expensive to loose to bud union death. So I only grow own root roses that have no bud union. They grow a bit slower the first year but trust me by the second year they will way overtake any grafted roses you have. Many roses fulfill these requirements. The Buck roses, the canadian explorer/morden roses and some of Graham Austins creations come to mind. I tend to be a Darwinian gardener. No weekly spray. No protection for winter. Just water and fertilizer some grooming and trimming. If it fails to thrive I get a replacement. All my roses fulfill these requirements. Last year with great regret I put down a Red called Showbiz. I had some sentiment attached to it but it was taking as much attention from me as my other 130+ roses to keep it thriving. There are thousands of roses that do just fine in our region. If you want some recommendations I can let you know what thrives for me. -- Theo in Kansas City Z5/Z6? |
#9
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New member
Thank you Theo. I read earlier about using compost and then put alfalfa
meal, epson salts, blood meal and osmocote time release on top of the compost. Water in with water and fish emulsion. Do you do this all at the same time or spread it out? Would this much stuff harm new plantings? Also, what kind of things are used for mulch and how deep do you apply it? I was told in very cold climates that I should plant the bud union about an inch under ground. Is this correct or should the bud union be above ground? I guess that is more than enough questions for now. Thanks again That sounds more like a planting fert. advice. They all do different things. The Epsom salts supposedly encourage blooming and basal growth. The blood meal legitimately claims to put phosphorus where the plant can get it at but it has to be place at the bottom of the hole before planting as soil percolation weakens its effectiveness. Osmocote is good but needs to be scratched in and its been some years since I could get near the base of some of my roses with out it becoming a blood sport. No, I've held my nose and completely converted to fish emulsion. Sounds like a shameless plug but it does have all the nutrients including all the micro stuff in a form the plant can readily absorb and it breaks down slowly over months. Yes excessive chemical fertilization will kill immature/establishing bushes. Typically you apply the fert before watering in the bush. 2-3 gallons should do it. Mulch. Ah yes! reams have been written on this subject and there doesn't seem to be any consensus. Everything from wood chips to straw to peanut shells to cocoa shells to stone chips to char coal to Lucerne Hay(don't ask me what that is!!) has been promoted here. I'm sure they all work. I grow about 130+ roses and what has been cheapest for me is to drive down to the city mulch station and pick up a free load of lightly composted wood chips in my truck. Yes there is some plastic stuff and some stones in there but after a rain shower you can't differentiate between this and a $3 a bag stuff @ home depot. You live in a considerably colder region than mine so please take my advice with a pinch of salt. Some one in your region may know better. Bud union depth has also been debated with no clear consensus. There are positives and negative to burying the bud union. My opinion is roses are too expensive to loose to bud union death. So I only grow own root roses that have no bud union. They grow a bit slower the first year but trust me by the second year they will way overtake any grafted roses you have. Many roses fulfill these requirements. The Buck roses, the canadian explorer/morden roses and some of Graham Austins creations come to mind. I tend to be a Darwinian gardener. No weekly spray. No protection for winter. Just water and fertilizer some grooming and trimming. If it fails to thrive I get a replacement. All my roses fulfill these requirements. Last year with great regret I put down a Red called Showbiz. I had some sentiment attached to it but it was taking as much attention from me as my other 130+ roses to keep it thriving. There are thousands of roses that do just fine in our region. If you want some recommendations I can let you know what thrives for me. -- Theo in Kansas City Z5/Z6? |
#10
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New member
There are thousands of roses that do just fine in our region. If you want some recommendations I can let you know what thrives for me. -- Theo in Kansas City Z5/Z6? I would love some recommendations. I would say I am zone 3/4. I know we can get 30 below but not very often. You say that you do not provide any winter protection for your roses? I also will follow your suggestion and get some of the wood chips from the compost center at the same time I get a load of compost. Thanks for all the help. It is nice when a newbie can get some good answers and not feel dumb. I have always had to work out of the home so gardening became something I did not get into. Now I work at home and so I am more in tune with my yard and love to see the flowers start to come up in the spring. Roses have always beens something I have wanted to grow. Sharon in MN Z4/Z3? |
#11
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New member
Sharon Capps wrote: I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual. I bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing ploy? I am not familiar with Kaleidoscope, but I have grown all of the others here in MN. They are easy roses for our climate except for Topaz Jewel which is slow to get going, fussy about location and soil and is not as hardy as the rest. However it is a very nice rose, and I think it is worth the trouble to baby it through its first few winters. There is just not a big choice if you want a hardy yellow with large double flowers. I have grown TJ for five or six years and this is the first time it has come through winter with green quite a ways above the wood chips that I mounded up late last fall. I hope it is getting more hardy with age. Henry Kelsey will require support because its canes are thin and flexible. Be sure to give William Baffin plenty of room. It is really more of a shrub than a climber. It will only require support for the first year or two. It will, in a few years, look more like an eight to ten foot lilac bush with canes at least as thick as a broomstick. Don't spray your Rugosas and I would go easy on the fertilizer as well especially the first year. I am in MN zone 4a near Rochester. Regards, Charles -- Charles Perry Reply to: ** A balanced diet is a cookie in each hand ** |
#12
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New member
Sharon Capps wrote: I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual. I bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing ploy? I am not familiar with Kaleidoscope, but I have grown all of the others here in MN. They are easy roses for our climate except for Topaz Jewel which is slow to get going, fussy about location and soil and is not as hardy as the rest. However it is a very nice rose, and I think it is worth the trouble to baby it through its first few winters. There is just not a big choice if you want a hardy yellow with large double flowers. I have grown TJ for five or six years and this is the first time it has come through winter with green quite a ways above the wood chips that I mounded up late last fall. I hope it is getting more hardy with age. Henry Kelsey will require support because its canes are thin and flexible. Be sure to give William Baffin plenty of room. It is really more of a shrub than a climber. It will only require support for the first year or two. It will, in a few years, look more like an eight to ten foot lilac bush with canes at least as thick as a broomstick. Don't spray your Rugosas and I would go easy on the fertilizer as well especially the first year. I am in MN zone 4a near Rochester. Regards, Charles -- Charles Perry Reply to: ** A balanced diet is a cookie in each hand ** |
#13
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New member
Sharon Capps wrote: ... I was told in very cold climates that I should plant the bud union about an inch under ground. Is this correct... More often than not many of the very hardy roses are sold on their own root, particularly the Ag Canada roses such as Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. If The roses are grafted, you should definately plant the bud ubion at least three inches below ground level. The rootstock varieties are not reliably hardy in MN and if you don't plant them below the ground, You may lose the plant in the first hard winter. Regards, Charles -- Charles Perry Reply to: ** A balanced diet is a cookie in each hand ** |
#14
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New member
It must be wonderful to work @ home. Sigh!
Do you intend to plant many more roses? Heres a wonderful site by a guy who grows roses in Minnesota http://homepage.mac.com/passepartoot/home/rosepage.htm You can see we have a similar philosophy though he does winter protect a bit. I'm too lazy to do even that. Yes spring is wonderful. There is usually a contest to see which rose buds and flowers first. But it is also when my Cyclamen stop blooming so that is sad. The coldest I've recorded here is -15F. Though the record is -20 F. So I will only recommend the bullet proof ones that grow for me. Absolutely cold hardy. Lavender Lassie - pinkish Compassion - Salmon Guinevere - White Apple jack - Pink (Buck rose) Pearlie Mae - yellowish (buck rose) Winter sunset - yellow (buck rose) J.P.Connell - Yellow (Canadian tough rose) Alba meidiland - white Bulldozer tough ground cover New Dawn - pink (probably most popular rose in world) Candelabra - Orange disease prone but really cold tough for a hybrid tea. Alexander Mackenzie - Red Canadian. can't seem to get rebloom. Some cold death but comes back strong. Iceberg - Popular white. B. Pink Iceberg - Pink sport really pretty. Frontenac - Tough tough canadian red. excellent rebloom. Just some that pop into mind. -- Theo in Kansas City Z5/Z6? I would love some recommendations. I would say I am zone 3/4. I know we can get 30 below but not very often. You say that you do not provide any winter protection for your roses? I also will follow your suggestion and get some of the wood chips from the compost center at the same time I get a load of compost. Thanks for all the help. It is nice when a newbie can get some good answers and not feel dumb. I have always had to work out of the home so gardening became something I did not get into. Now I work at home and so I am more in tune with my yard and love to see the flowers start to come up in the spring. Roses have always beens something I have wanted to |
#15
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New member
Sharon Capps wrote: ... I was told in very cold climates that I should plant the bud union about an inch under ground. Is this correct... More often than not many of the very hardy roses are sold on their own root, particularly the Ag Canada roses such as Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. If The roses are grafted, you should definately plant the bud ubion at least three inches below ground level. The rootstock varieties are not reliably hardy in MN and if you don't plant them below the ground, You may lose the plant in the first hard winter. Regards, Charles -- Charles Perry Reply to: ** A balanced diet is a cookie in each hand ** |
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