"Emery Davis" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 15:37:07 GMT
(WaltA) wrote:

[]
But now I am puzzled because 20-25 is no age at all for gooseberries,
we have been here 30y and the goosberry bushes were already here when
we arrived.


Walt, I was under the impression that they weren't long lived, and based
my
estimate of age on that. They were already gnarly but cropped well still
when
we bought the house 15 years ago. In fact they might well have been 60.
Not sure where I had my impression from, but suspect I read it somewhere
(which does not necessarily imply reliability.) I wonder if anyone else
can
weigh in with information on the useful lifetime.

One thing I'll wager on, they weren't "Careless!" Almost certainly
layered
from another local plant.

cheers,

I'm encouraged now :-)

Ours is Careless.

Mary

-E



--
Emery Davis
You can reply to ecom
by removing the well known companies
Questions about wine? Visit http://winefaq.hostexcellence.com

For Mike regarding when to prune currants and apples.

Currants
Blackcurrants fruit on previous years wood (though they do fruit on
older wood more productive on younger wood), so the system of pruning
is a renewal system. Generally prunned in the autumn or after
harvest. Remove one third of the older wood. Removing the older wood
often means removing some new wood. If the overall amount of old wood
to be removed is less than the new wood, leave it in place. The aim
should be to produce an open centered bush.
Redcurrants
Redcurrant bushes are pruned in a manner similar to gooseberries, in
that they fruit on spurs on older wood. The aim here should be to
keep a clear leg of trunk of around 4-6 inches, though I have to say
that prior to the removal of the fruit garden at Harlow Carr, there
where four bushes successfully growing as multi stemmed bushes. It
works so long as there is good ventilation. Again, an open centered
bush is the aim. In the dormat period, leaders are cut back by half
and laterals reduced to two buds.

As for your apples I take it that your tree may be an age and in need
of renovation (as opposed to a young tree which needs pruning to
develope a structure. The two techniques are different) - Here are a
few steps to take.
..
First, this kind of pruning is done when the tree is dormant and
there
is no hard cold spell that could damage the exposed tissues (If its
too cold to stand out side its too cold to prune is the basic
tennant). Secondly
if there is a lot do do, then the work should be spread over at least
two, preferably more, winters. As the tree is of an age, be careful
as

to what is safe to stand on if you are climbing it.
..
1. As with any pruning remove any dead, dieing or damaged branches.
Think larger banches rather than the fine growth, those that need a
saw
rather than seceteurs. For the most part you will be cutting back to
healthy growth.
2. Remove branches that are growing the wrong way - they want to bee
going outwards not back into the crown of the tree.
3. Next are the crossing branches, here you need to stand back and
look at the tree from several positions to descide which branch to
remove.
4. Deal with branches that are too high, too low and too spreading.
Having done all this you will start to have a framework to work with.
5. Then it is a question of overcrowding. This is the enemy -
congestion limits light and air flow.
6. To help prevent fungal infections spreading, paint over large
wounds with a fungicidal paint such as Medo, available from good
garden
centres.


The best advice I can give is to take your time, follow the steps in
order. Yes you are likely to go around the tree a few / several
times,
but by following the steps you avoid being too drastic and being left
with a stump.


Winter pruning encourages growth, so don't be suprised to see lots of
new growth next season. Come summer, the new growth can be thinned
to
select new branches.


It will probably take three to five years to get the tree into shape


The RHS has a leaflet - which can be found at
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile...fruit_tree.asp

Good luck
Clifford
Batry, Doncaster, South Yorkshire

WaltA
The big gooseberries used in competitions are often selected types,
but some of the large berried types include:
Admiral Beatty, Angler, Berry's Early Giant, Bobby, Broom Girl,
Champion, Colossal, Dan's Mistake, Edith Cavell, Fredonia, Guido,
Gunner, Lloyd George, London, Lord Derby, Montgomery, Roaring Lion and
Telegraph.
Leveller can produce large berries. The secret is thinning and feed.
Thin the fruit and remember that main nutrient that they need is
potash. So either apply as chemical feed or mulch a bush with pleanty
of manure (not if this is the intention train the leg of the bush more
so as not to restrict air flow). Applications of seaweed meal and/or
comfrey can help in delivring potash.
As for a source of these plants - you could try Rougham Hall Nurseries
who hold the national collection. RV Rogers in Pickering North
Yorkshire grow a good range of gooseberry plants also.

Good Luck
Clifford

On Wed, 25 Jul 2007 06:05:25 -0700, cliff_the_gardener
wrote:

WaltA
The big gooseberries used in competitions are often selected types,
but some of the large berried types include:
Admiral Beatty, Angler, Berry's Early Giant, Bobby, Broom Girl,
Champion, Colossal, Dan's Mistake, Edith Cavell, Fredonia, Guido,
Gunner, Lloyd George, London, Lord Derby, Montgomery, Roaring Lion and
Telegraph.
Leveller can produce large berries. The secret is thinning and feed.
Thin the fruit and remember that main nutrient that they need is
potash. So either apply as chemical feed or mulch a bush with pleanty
of manure (not if this is the intention train the leg of the bush more
so as not to restrict air flow). Applications of seaweed meal and/or
comfrey can help in delivring potash.
As for a source of these plants - you could try Rougham Hall Nurseries
who hold the national collection. RV Rogers in Pickering North
Yorkshire grow a good range of gooseberry plants also.

Good Luck
Clifford

Many thanks for that, most interesting.
And I've made note of the two suppliers because I must get some other
varieties planted.
My present ones are usually ready to pick in the middle of Wimbledon,
which means that 1st assistant chief picker goes AWOL frequently :-))

WaltA
Disapearing labour force... need bigger ball and chain!
Why do people want to go on holiday when there is fruit to be
harvested, and plant to be prunned and.......
My sympathy
Clifford

On Wed, 25 Jul 2007 05:43:25 -0700, cliff_the_gardener
wrote:

... For Mike regarding when to prune currants and apples.


snipped
...
... Good luck
... Clifford
... Batry, Doncaster, South Yorkshire
/snipped

Thank you very much for the info.

Mike P

On Wed, 25 Jul 2007 13:52:10 -0700, cliff_the_gardener wrote:
Lord Derby

Sounds promising :-
Season: Early August
Type: Dessert/Culinary
Fruit size: Very large

From RVRoger's list,
that should get it well clear of the Wimbledon zone !

Disapearing labour force... need bigger ball and chain!

Oh yes, I'd forgotten those, can they be grown from seed in our
climate :-?)

"cliff_the_gardener" wrote in message
ups.com...
WaltA
Disapearing labour force... need bigger ball and chain!
Why do people want to go on holiday when there is fruit to be
harvested, and plant to be prunned and.......
My sympathy
Clifford

Why do peole want to go on holiday anyway when they have a garden!

Mary

WaltA
If you want a named variety it needs to come from a cutting. Yes you
can grow from seed - just do not know what the result will be and it
will take longer to come into fruit.
I have purchased a number of rooted cuttings (around 10inches in
length) from Rogers because I can train them into the style of plant
that suits me (single or multiple cordon or bush).
Regards
Clifford

On Thu, 26 Jul 2007 06:16:32 -0700, cliff_the_gardener wrote:
WaltA
If you want a named variety it needs to come from a cutting. Yes you
can grow from seed - just do not know what the result will be and it
will take longer to come into fruit.
I have purchased a number of rooted cuttings (around 10inches in
length) from Rogers because I can train them into the style of plant
that suits me (single or multiple cordon or bush).
Regards
Clifford

Yes, Ive raised cuttings for extra bushes from my own plants

BUT :-
bit of a misunnerstanding here Cliff !

I quoted Disapearing labour force... need bigger ball and chain!

then said Oh yes, I'd forgotten those,

meaning the ball&chain

then can they be grown from seed in our
climate :-?)

meaning the ball&chain again :-))))

sry ! poor joke, I know

I wont give up the day job ;-)

On 26/7/07 13:58, in article
, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


"cliff_the_gardener" wrote in message
ups.com...
WaltA
Disapearing labour force... need bigger ball and chain!
Why do people want to go on holiday when there is fruit to be
harvested, and plant to be prunned and.......
My sympathy
Clifford

Why do peole want to go on holiday anyway when they have a garden!

Mary

To look at other gardens and to broaden the mind.


--
Sacha
http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk
(remove weeds from address)
'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our
children.'

"WaltA" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 26 Jul 2007 06:16:32 -0700, cliff_the_gardener wrote:
WaltA
If you want a named variety it needs to come from a cutting. Yes you
can grow from seed - just do not know what the result will be and it
will take longer to come into fruit.
I have purchased a number of rooted cuttings (around 10inches in
length) from Rogers because I can train them into the style of plant
that suits me (single or multiple cordon or bush).
Regards
Clifford

Yes, Ive raised cuttings for extra bushes from my own plants

BUT :-
bit of a misunnerstanding here Cliff !

I quoted Disapearing labour force... need bigger ball and chain!

then said Oh yes, I'd forgotten those,

meaning the ball&chain

then can they be grown from seed in our
climate :-?)

meaning the ball&chain again :-))))

sry ! poor joke, I know

I wont give up the day job ;-)

If it's any consolation I read it as what you intended ...

Mary

On Thu, 26 Jul 2007 15:38:13 +0100, Mary Fisher & I wrote:
I wont give up the day job ;-)

If it's any consolation I read it as what you intended ...

/feels better already
/gives Mary a glass of gooseberry wine

"WaltA" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 26 Jul 2007 15:38:13 +0100, Mary Fisher & I wrote:
I wont give up the day job ;-)

If it's any consolation I read it as what you intended ...

/feels better already
/gives Mary a glass of gooseberry wine

Oh, thank you!

er - it's a very SMALL glass - with a lot of air in it ....

:-)

Mary

On Thu, 26 Jul 2007 16:51:29 +0100, "Mary Fisher" wrote:

/feels better already
/gives Mary a glass of gooseberry wine

Oh, thank you!

er - it's a very SMALL glass - with a lot of air in it ....
:-)

beep beep
Scotty, summats gorn wrong with the transporter,
beam her over another one and reduce the hot air.
bleep