Yes, Polycarb roofs are incredibly noisy when it rains. I think they also do
make for a very cold conservatory. If I was going to do it again, I probably
would go for a tiled roof so we could heat the room at reasonable cost, and
still geta fair bit of light, though that would probably also incresae the
cost quite a bit.
As it is very cold it is not used much December to Feb. Having said that, it
is N facing (no choice) so that doesn't help with the cold, since if it got
the sun in winter I suspect that would help a lot, certainly in the day
anyway. OTOH at least it doesnt usually get too hot in summer.

--
Tumbleweed

Remove my socks before replying (but no email reply necessary to newsgroups)

Apologies for not being *quite* garden orientated but there are just so many
lovely conservatory plants about that we're considering having one built.

I value all the opinions given here so I'd like to ask your experiences of
conservatories. Like polycarb roof or glass, timber construction or uPVC,
roof vents or roof blinds? Are there any things you wish you had known when
you bought yours or things you would change now given half a chance? Any
manufacturers that you've been impressed with? Pitfalls to watch out for?
It's such a huge cost that any scraps of experience/wisdom would be greatly
appreciated.

TIA
--Alison

The message
from "Alison" o.uk
contains these words:

Apologies for not being *quite* garden orientated but there are just so many
lovely conservatory plants about that we're considering having one built.

I value all the opinions given here so I'd like to ask your experiences of
conservatories. Like polycarb roof or glass, timber construction or uPVC,
roof vents or roof blinds? Are there any things you wish you had known when
you bought yours or things you would change now given half a chance? Any
manufacturers that you've been impressed with? Pitfalls to watch out for?
It's such a huge cost that any scraps of experience/wisdom would be greatly
appreciated.

Decide if you're going for primarily an extra living room, warm with
lots of light, a couple of pot plants and a nice outlook; or a place
where there's just enough space to sit among the green jungle of plants.
The first will be dry enough for upholstery, rugs, filled bookcases etc;
the second will be very humid.

Go for upvc or coated aluminium....no maintenance except washing.
Polycarb roofs are very much noisier than glass when it's
raining,(imagine sitting inside a drum...) and you might quite often
want to be inside while it's raining. On the other hand, polycarb
screens out a percentage of light so plants are less likely to scorch in
sun, and is a better insulator in winter. If you can visit a
conservatory showroom, try going there during a heavy downpour, and
during a sunny summer day.

Allow for more ventilation than you think you will need, preferably
set up so you can arrange a natural through draft of air, and have a
waterproof floor if you're going to be watering plants. If possible
don't site it facing due south..it will be much too hot for people and
plants in summer.

Think ahead about heating in winter if you intend to have loads of
plants; if you plan to run an extra radiator off your central heating
system, remember that most people time it to go off during most of the
night so plants could get badly chilled then..you will probably need
some kind of electric thermostatic heater anyway.

Janet.

Alison o.uk wrote in
message ...
Apologies for not being *quite* garden orientated but there are just so
many
lovely conservatory plants about that we're considering having one built.

Are there any things you wish you had known when
you bought yours or things you would change now given half a chance?

We made some mistakes:

1. We had our conservatory built in far too warm and sunny a part of the
garden. Consequently, not only did we lose a pleasant part of the garden
when we could have lost one that was less so, but also we have a
conservatory which gets FAR too hot in the summer.

2.Our conservatory is large and a nice, but irregular shape. The roof has
many small sections with quite deep frames. The irregular shape makes it
unsuitable for 'tented' shade, we've been told, and when we had a quote for
roof blinds we were told we'd need a huge number of individual blinds
because of the many deep-framed little sections. £6,000 (yes, SIX THOUSAND
POUNDS!) was the figure quoted for the roof blinds. So our conservatory roof
will remain unshaded, I'm afraid!

3. I've sometimes wondered if it's structurally possible to have a room
that's like a conservatory, but with a proper roof. This, it seems to me,
would cut down on the heat. There would be less light, of course, but it
would still be much lighter than an ordinary room because of the large
expanse of windows.

Good luck!

Plum

In article ,
Alison o.uk wrote:
Apologies for not being *quite* garden orientated but there are just so many
lovely conservatory plants about that we're considering having one built.

I value all the opinions given here so I'd like to ask your experiences of
conservatories. Like polycarb roof or glass, timber construction or uPVC,
roof vents or roof blinds? Are there any things you wish you had known when
you bought yours or things you would change now given half a chance? Any
manufacturers that you've been impressed with? Pitfalls to watch out for?
It's such a huge cost that any scraps of experience/wisdom would be greatly
appreciated.

We had one built a few years back by Lansdowne, and are very satisfied
with it. It is south facing, was pricey but not one of the expenditure
as a status symbol ones. Here are some points:

There is a cavity brick dwarf wall, and a full height wall to the north
where it is close to an adjacent house. This saves money, loses nothing
and reduces damage. It also helps if you want to shade plants.

The glass is 1/2" cavity K glass. Definitely worth it. Condensation
is minimal and little heating is needed. It won't save money, but you
shouldn't lose money over its lifetime.

11.5% of the floor area is automatically opening top vents. And I mean
TOP vents. There are lots of windows, but we open them only when we
are in there on hot summer days.

There are 5 9" square ventilation holes in the dwarf wall and low down
in the full one. I insisted! They have galvanised iron gratings on the
outside and brass shuttering on the inside. With them and the top vents
open, it doesn't overheat even in full summer with the windows closed.
They are critical for when you are out or go away.

I made some plates for covering the outside of the vents from plain
brass with vinyl floor tiles stuck to the inside (bimetallism avoidance),
some 4" larger than the vents with a screw hole in each corner. This
prevents too much heat loss in winter, and it takes me 15 minutes to
remove each spring and attach each autumn.

There is a 1/300 slope down to a drainage channel at one side, with
not too slippery floor tiles. It is very easy to clean and water
does not puddle. 1/200 might be better.

There is a border going down to soil in one side, but I am not as
successful at establishing plants in it as I hoped. Too many pests
get out of control, and I have to remove plants and start again.
Obviously a lack of skill and experience :-)

I made some lattice out of dowelling, because I disliked the look
(and durability) of anything I could buy. Successful, but tricky.
Please ask me if you are a good handyman and want to try.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren,
University of Cambridge Computing Service,
New Museums Site, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QH, England.
Email:
Tel.: +44 1223 334761 Fax: +44 1223 334679

"Alison" o.uk wrote
in :

Apologies for not being *quite* garden orientated but there are just
so many lovely conservatory plants about that we're considering having
one built.

I value all the opinions given here so I'd like to ask your
experiences of conservatories. Like polycarb roof or glass,

I had one of those twin wall polycarb roofs: it was fine from the warmth
point of view, but the ends were insufficiently sealed, and things got
inside and died: there was no way short of demolishing the roof to get them
out again, so it got a bit gruesome. So far as we could see, there were no
gaps - yet somehow the creepies got in. I'd think twice about having
another of these for that reason, unless I was very confident of the
installers.

Victoria

On Thu, 16 Jan 2003 14:49:43 +0000, Alison wrote:

I value all the opinions given here so I'd like to ask your experiences of
conservatories. Like polycarb roof or glass, timber construction or uPVC,
roof vents or roof blinds? Are there any things you wish you had known when

On a similar note, I'd be interested in anyone's experiences with what I
think is a coated polycarbonate roof. Its meant to reflect the heat in
summer, retain more heat in winter and generally be wonderful. Anyone
heard of this stuff and is it any good?

TIA,

Sarah

We have a south facing one in UPVC with glass panels right to the floor and
polycarbonate triple wall roof ........thought it was a great idea at the
time but wish now we had had a proper extension with lots of windows and a
good roof done instead would be much more usefull especially in the winter
when otherwise pound notes fly out in heating costs .......never again would
we have a conservatory and UPVC after 10 years is ingrained with dirt you
cant wash off

"Alison" o.uk wrote in
message ...
Apologies for not being *quite* garden orientated but there are just so
many
lovely conservatory plants about that we're considering having one built.

I value all the opinions given here so I'd like to ask your experiences of
conservatories. Like polycarb roof or glass, timber construction or uPVC,
roof vents or roof blinds? Are there any things you wish you had known
when
you bought yours or things you would change now given half a chance? Any
manufacturers that you've been impressed with? Pitfalls to watch out for?
It's such a huge cost that any scraps of experience/wisdom would be
greatly
appreciated.

TIA
--Alison

"Plum" wrote in message
...
3. I've sometimes wondered if it's structurally possible to have a room
that's like a conservatory, but with a proper roof. This, it seems to me,
would cut down on the heat. There would be less light, of course, but it
would still be much lighter than an ordinary room because of the large
expanse of windows.


We have a 4.5m square extension with two walls (south and East) as in a
conservatory ie brick to cill height then v large windows and one wall
(north) Solid and no wall communicating with the house.

The roof is an open pine 'cathedral structure rising to a centre wooden boss
some 4m above floor height.

The roomlinks directly to the kitchen, giving a total light of about 10m and
opens directly tot he garden (East facing)

The patio is approx the same size and shape as the overall room , rotated
though 90degrees, when the doors are open the spcaes link and form one large
circulating space.

Very light and airy and a real talking point!

Is that the sort of thing you have in mind?

When the heating guy cam round to arrange for a new and relocated boiler, we
were at partial wall stage. He shook his head and said that there was
nothing he could do to keep the room warm enough - until we pointed out that
the roof would be solid not glass and he breathed a great sigh of relief.

pk

Make it a condition of any contract that the company is responsible for all
building reglation and planning permissions that may be needed. Don't hand
over all the money until completion and approval by the building inspector.

In article ,
Janet Baraclough wrote:

Decide if you're going for primarily an extra living room, warm with
lots of light, a couple of pot plants and a nice outlook; or a place
where there's just enough space to sit among the green jungle of plants.

Agreed :-)

The first will be dry enough for upholstery, rugs, filled bookcases etc;
the second will be very humid.

Not necessarily! There are lots of good dry terrain plants, and they
neither like it humid nor evaporate much. Anyway, if you have rattan
furniture, you need SOME humidity.

Go for upvc or coated aluminium....no maintenance except washing.

For a few years, maybe. The main disadvantage of those is that they
can't be adjusted or repaired. If the ground heaves at all due to
wet or dry years, the glass may crack, windows and doors jam and even
leaks start - and there is NOTHING you can do about it! Wood is much
more flexible, and can be trimmed as need arises. Even steel is more
adjustable.

But I agree that you must go for wood that is properly chose and
treated for the British climate. And that doesn't come cheap.

Allow for more ventilation than you think you will need, preferably
set up so you can arrange a natural through draft of air, and have a
waterproof floor if you're going to be watering plants. If possible
don't site it facing due south..it will be much too hot for people and
plants in summer.

Ours is OK, but even the amount of ventilation I was describing is none
too much. Ideally, you want 20% of the floor area to be opening top
vents, and perhaps 1/4 of that to be bottom vents. Cambridge University's
old glasshouses are like that, and so are many others.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren,
University of Cambridge Computing Service,
New Museums Site, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QH, England.
Email:
Tel.: +44 1223 334761 Fax: +44 1223 334679

"Plum" wrote in message
...
snip because of the many deep-framed little sections. £6,000 (yes, SIX
THOUSAND
POUNDS!) was the figure quoted for the roof blinds. So our conservatory
roof
will remain unshaded, I'm afraid!

Just an idea, but could you suspend a grid of wires from the ceiling and
grow climbers over them to provide a natural curtain?

Martin

"Sarah Dale" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 16 Jan 2003 14:49:43 +0000, Alison wrote:


On a similar note, I'd be interested in anyone's experiences with what I
think is a coated polycarbonate roof. Its meant to reflect the heat in
summer, retain more heat in winter and generally be wonderful. Anyone
heard of this stuff and is it any good?

TIA,

Sarah

Polycarb especially tinted sorts is noisy and restricts some of the white
light plants need. you can't beat glass for roofs but remember the slope
needs to be about 40 degrees to allow in maximum heat in the winter. Use
double glazed safety glass. my conservatory is wood and I do need to
repair/maintain fairly reguarly (but it is over 150 years old!) new bits I
treat and they seem to last well.
Shading should always be on the outside not inside (I grow plants over
mine). and a solid base wall and tiled floor keeps the pots cool and allows
for damping down in summer.
You can't have too much ventilation in the roof and sides (bear in mind it
has to be open even when you are away)
And lastly however big you were thinking you will wish you had gone bigger!

--
Charlie, gardening in Cornwall.
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of National Plant Collection of Clematis viticella (cvs)

In article ,
Martin Sykes wrote:

"Plum" wrote in message
...
snip because of the many deep-framed little sections. £6,000 (yes, SIX
THOUSAND
POUNDS!) was the figure quoted for the roof blinds. So our conservatory
roof
will remain unshaded, I'm afraid!

Just an idea, but could you suspend a grid of wires from the ceiling and
grow climbers over them to provide a natural curtain?

You certainly can. To some extent, you can ensure that the cover
is there only in the summer, too. But you must either have a fairly
solid wooden conservatory or insist that the fixtures are built in!
We were intending to do that, but our ventilation has worked well
enough that we have never done it - though we have had climbers over
some of the roof!


Regards,
Nick Maclaren,
University of Cambridge Computing Service,
New Museums Site, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QH, England.
Email:
Tel.: +44 1223 334761 Fax: +44 1223 334679

In article ,
Charlie Pridham wrote:

You can't have too much ventilation in the roof and sides (bear in mind it
has to be open even when you are away)

Remember that airflow is proportional to the areas of the vents and
the difference in height between the bottom and top ones. This is
why windows opening between thigh and head height are so poor compared
with traditional top and bottom vent designs.

I did a fairly extensive search for any scientific and engineering
information on the relative requirements for the areas of top and bottom
vents, and found precisely nothing. If anyone finds anything useful, I
should be interested to hear of it.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren,
University of Cambridge Computing Service,
New Museums Site, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QH, England.
Email:
Tel.: +44 1223 334761 Fax: +44 1223 334679