Do any of you go as far as having different soil mixes for different plants
in the garden. ?

Diesel.

On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 01:10:48 -0500, "DogDiesel"
wrote:

Do any of you go as far as having different soil mixes for different plants
in the garden. ?

Diesel.

If you are talking about annual vegetables probably not worth it. You
need to practice crop rotation and I don't know how you would do that
with specific soils in each area. But yes if you are prepping for
long term plants like asparagus or rhubarb.
--
USA
North Carolina Foothills
USDA Zone 7a

"DogDiesel" wrote in
:

Do any of you go as far as having different soil mixes for different
plants in the garden. ?

Diesel.




Yes,
For example people usually add manure/compost when planting potatoes, add
lime for bressicas etc.
Or have I got the question wrong? I often do.

Baz

"Baz" wrote in message
...
"DogDiesel" wrote in
:

Do any of you go as far as having different soil mixes for different
plants in the garden. ?

Diesel.




Yes,
For example people usually add manure/compost when planting potatoes, add
lime for bressicas etc.
Or have I got the question wrong? I often do.

Baz

Its all good, that's what I meant.

"DogDiesel" wrote in
:


"Baz" wrote in message
...
"DogDiesel" wrote in
:

Do any of you go as far as having different soil mixes for different
plants in the garden. ?

Diesel.




Yes,
For example people usually add manure/compost when planting potatoes,
add lime for bressicas etc.
Or have I got the question wrong? I often do.

Baz

Its all good, that's what I meant.



Diesel, nice I got it right,
What are you going to grow this year?
I'm no expert but there are loads here who know what to add and what not
to.
You could Google for answers but in my experience you will get lots of duff
advice from a few sites and then distrust everything you read!
I know you are not a rookie but you should, if you do not already, compost
everything you can, and take the time to look after it so that it will be
useful when it all rots down. Kitchen waste(not meat or anything cooked),
garden foliage including lawn mowings, leaves, cardboard, paper, cut
flowers, fruit you forgot to eat, veg in the fridge you let go soft and so
on are perfect. Not many people have chickens yet(give it a couple of years
and they will) but their droppings are very good for the compost heap.
DO NOT USE CAT OR DOG MUCK or any other meat eating animals muck. Yuk.
Apparently and of course they contain microbes harmful to some human
organs, mostly the eyes and liver.
I hope this has been helpful to you

Baz

Baz wrote:
"DogDiesel" wrote in
:


"Baz" wrote in message
...
"DogDiesel" wrote in
:

Do any of you go as far as having different soil mixes for different
plants in the garden. ?

Diesel.




Yes,
For example people usually add manure/compost when planting potatoes,
add lime for bressicas etc.
Or have I got the question wrong? I often do.

Baz

Its all good, that's what I meant.



Diesel, nice I got it right,
What are you going to grow this year?
I'm no expert but there are loads here who know what to add and what not
to.
You could Google for answers but in my experience you will get lots of duff
advice from a few sites and then distrust everything you read!
I know you are not a rookie but you should, if you do not already, compost
everything you can, and take the time to look after it so that it will be
useful when it all rots down. Kitchen waste(not meat or anything cooked),
garden foliage including lawn mowings, leaves, cardboard, paper, cut
flowers, fruit you forgot to eat, veg in the fridge you let go soft and so
on are perfect. Not many people have chickens yet(give it a couple of years
and they will) but their droppings are very good for the compost heap.
DO NOT USE CAT OR DOG MUCK or any other meat eating animals muck. Yuk.
Apparently and of course they contain microbes harmful to some human
organs, mostly the eyes and liver.
I hope this has been helpful to you

Baz

For the vegetable gardens in raised beds and on the ground, I tend to have
a light looser soil that is at least a foot deep. For trees and shrubs I
tend to use the soil that is already there, mostly clay, but I do drill
holes at the drip line of the trees and shrubs for water and some
fertilizers. For containers that are outside I tend to use potting soil.
Soil that is near the base of my home is sandy for drainage.

Compost goes on everything except grass. I rob Peter ( grass clippings ) to
pay Paul the vegetable garden. Flower cuttings, kitchen scraps, Straw and
chicken poop goes in the compost as well. My lawn is not the best looking
in the world but slowly getting better. The veggies are tasty thou.

--
Enjoy Life... Nad R (Garden in zone 5a Michigan)

Nad R wrote in
:


For the vegetable gardens in raised beds and on the ground, I tend to
have a light looser soil that is at least a foot deep. For trees and
shrubs I tend to use the soil that is already there, mostly clay, but
I do drill holes at the drip line of the trees and shrubs for water
and some fertilizers. For containers that are outside I tend to use
potting soil. Soil that is near the base of my home is sandy for
drainage.

Compost goes on everything except grass. I rob Peter ( grass clippings
) to pay Paul the vegetable garden. Flower cuttings, kitchen scraps,
Straw and chicken poop goes in the compost as well. My lawn is not the
best looking in the world but slowly getting better. The veggies are
tasty thou.


You seem to have it all sorted, Nad.
Wish I had.

How did you start out? I mean from the start, from your idea to where you
are now.

Baz

Baz wrote:
Nad R wrote in
:


For the vegetable gardens in raised beds and on the ground, I tend to
have a light looser soil that is at least a foot deep. For trees and
shrubs I tend to use the soil that is already there, mostly clay, but
I do drill holes at the drip line of the trees and shrubs for water
and some fertilizers. For containers that are outside I tend to use
potting soil. Soil that is near the base of my home is sandy for
drainage.

Compost goes on everything except grass. I rob Peter ( grass clippings
) to pay Paul the vegetable garden. Flower cuttings, kitchen scraps,
Straw and chicken poop goes in the compost as well. My lawn is not the
best looking in the world but slowly getting better. The veggies are
tasty thou.


You seem to have it all sorted, Nad.
Wish I had.

How did you start out? I mean from the start, from your idea to where you
are now.

Baz

One note compost is good for the grass as well. Like I said I rob Peter to
Pay Paul.

I was born and raised in the city and hated everyone. I had a scientific
mind surrounded by ultra conservative Christian types. I moved to the
country 15 years ago and love it! My mind is at rest, no neighbors, few
problems, no hate. Sorta like the show green acres.

My first attempts at gardening were a disaster. Nothing grew well and I
wanted a nice looking yard and Garden. At first I went to the books, they
were very helpful, but books are too generalized. I took what I thought was
best. Also here and there Internet was useful. Then after time I learned
about the Master Gardener Volunteer program that is offered in many states.
The Master Gardener program is an excellent way for the beginner to average
gardener to greatly advance their skills.
The ten week class cost me about $250 US and 40 additional hours of
volunteer time in the community. The class came with an excellent set of
books that was specific to my area in which I live in.

To find such a program Google, " Master Gardener Volunteer Program " with
your state and see what comes up.

I do not have all my act together. In My book, gardening is mostly art with
a little of science thrown in. Those with university degrees in
Horticulture or Agriculture are far far more advanced than I am. My yard is
not a picture perfect yard like in Martha Stewart or garden Magazines. I do
not have fancy brick paved paths or perfectly manicured shrubs. Mine is
more functional than beautiful. It took years to get where I am at. Money
is also tight, so I only add a little here and little there over the years.
Nothing went in all at once.

http://www.nadrhel.com/Summer.html

--
Enjoy Life... Nad R (Garden in zone 5a Michigan)

In article ,
Baz wrote:

"DogDiesel" wrote in
:

Do any of you go as far as having different soil mixes for different
plants in the garden. ?

Diesel.




Yes,
For example people usually add manure/compost when planting potatoes, add
lime for bressicas etc.
Or have I got the question wrong? I often do.

Baz
http://fieldcrop.msu.edu/documents/E2893.pdf

Adding manure directly before planting can
increase risk of disease, such as common scab
(Streptomyces scabie) in potato. Consider carefully
manure effects and disease potential before
incorporating manure in the spring. Composted
manure will generally be much safer and
reduce disease risk.
--
- Billy
³When you give food to the poor, they call you a saint. When you ask why the poor have no food, they call you a communist.²
-Archbishop Helder Camara
http://peace.mennolink.org/articles/...acegroups.html
http://english.aljazeera.net/indepth...130964689.html
20111812130964689.html

Nad R wrote in
:

Baz wrote:
Nad R wrote in
:


For the vegetable gardens in raised beds and on the ground, I tend
to have a light looser soil that is at least a foot deep. For trees
and shrubs I tend to use the soil that is already there, mostly
clay, but I do drill holes at the drip line of the trees and shrubs
for water and some fertilizers. For containers that are outside I
tend to use potting soil. Soil that is near the base of my home is
sandy for drainage.

Compost goes on everything except grass. I rob Peter ( grass
clippings ) to pay Paul the vegetable garden. Flower cuttings,
kitchen scraps, Straw and chicken poop goes in the compost as well.
My lawn is not the best looking in the world but slowly getting
better. The veggies are tasty thou.


You seem to have it all sorted, Nad.
Wish I had.

How did you start out? I mean from the start, from your idea to where
you are now.

Baz

One note compost is good for the grass as well. Like I said I rob
Peter to Pay Paul.

I was born and raised in the city and hated everyone. I had a
scientific mind surrounded by ultra conservative Christian types. I
moved to the country 15 years ago and love it! My mind is at rest, no
neighbors, few problems, no hate. Sorta like the show green acres.

My first attempts at gardening were a disaster. Nothing grew well and
I wanted a nice looking yard and Garden. At first I went to the books,
they were very helpful, but books are too generalized. I took what I
thought was best. Also here and there Internet was useful. Then after
time I learned about the Master Gardener Volunteer program that is
offered in many states. The Master Gardener program is an excellent
way for the beginner to average gardener to greatly advance their
skills. The ten week class cost me about $250 US and 40 additional
hours of volunteer time in the community. The class came with an
excellent set of books that was specific to my area in which I live
in.

To find such a program Google, " Master Gardener Volunteer Program "
with your state and see what comes up.

I do not have all my act together. In My book, gardening is mostly art
with a little of science thrown in. Those with university degrees in
Horticulture or Agriculture are far far more advanced than I am. My
yard is not a picture perfect yard like in Martha Stewart or garden
Magazines. I do not have fancy brick paved paths or perfectly
manicured shrubs. Mine is more functional than beautiful. It took
years to get where I am at. Money is also tight, so I only add a
little here and little there over the years. Nothing went in all at
once.

http://www.nadrhel.com/Summer.html


OH............

DogDiesel wrote:
Do any of you go as far as having different soil mixes for different
plants in the garden. ?

Diesel.

Yes. For shrubs and perenials I will vary the amount of amendments to suit
the plant. So I have areas that are limed more heavily because the plants
like the pH higher, I have some things in tubs of sandy soil becasue they
wouldn't survive the drainage difficulties in my clay-based soil. For
annuals I fertilise gross feeders (eg corn) much more heavily than others.

David

"Billy" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Baz wrote:

"DogDiesel" wrote in
:

Do any of you go as far as having different soil mixes for different
plants in the garden. ?

Diesel.




Yes,
For example people usually add manure/compost when planting potatoes, add
lime for bressicas etc.
Or have I got the question wrong? I often do.

Baz
http://fieldcrop.msu.edu/documents/E2893.pdf

Adding manure directly before planting can
increase risk of disease, such as common scab
(Streptomyces scabie) in potato. Consider carefully
manure effects and disease potential before
incorporating manure in the spring. Composted
manure will generally be much safer and
reduce disease risk.
--
- Billy


Thanks Billy. What timing. I was just thinking of adding manure from
Tractor supply. I was going to dump it in the snow. For Spring. If you
put a lot of it in the composter bin. Will it make composting stop. Will it
Burn it or something.

Diesel.






³When you give food to the poor, they call you a saint. When you ask why
the poor have no food, they call you a communist.²
-Archbishop Helder Camara
http://peace.mennolink.org/articles/...acegroups.html
http://english.aljazeera.net/indepth...130964689.html
20111812130964689.html

"DogDiesel" wrote:
"Billy" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Baz wrote:

"DogDiesel" wrote in
:

Do any of you go as far as having different soil mixes for different
plants in the garden. ?

Diesel.




Yes,
For example people usually add manure/compost when planting potatoes, add
lime for bressicas etc.
Or have I got the question wrong? I often do.

Baz
http://fieldcrop.msu.edu/documents/E2893.pdf

Adding manure directly before planting can
increase risk of disease, such as common scab
(Streptomyces scabie) in potato. Consider carefully
manure effects and disease potential before
incorporating manure in the spring. Composted
manure will generally be much safer and
reduce disease risk.
--
- Billy


Thanks Billy. What timing. I was just thinking of adding manure from
Tractor supply. I was going to dump it in the snow. For Spring. If you
put a lot of it in the composter bin. Will it make composting stop. Will it
Burn it or something.

Diesel.

Manure from the stores are typically sterilized. If so, it can be used
immediately in the garden. Most bags of compost/manure sold in stores are
mostly sterilized animal manure. Plant compost is the GOLD that most
gardeners want and is the best and not typically sold in stores, got to
make your own. Look on the bag for NPK amount it is usually around .5 for
each of the NPK values.

However, fresh animal manures need time in the sun to dry before using in
the compost piles or directly in the garden. Not a good thing to put down
fresh animal manure 90 days before planting, 180 days before harvest. I
would not put down fresh animal manure on wet ground or snow. Putting fresh
animal manure on wet areas may cause liquifying of the manure and cause
contamination of local well and water systems.

But if your buying your compost at a store it is probably sterilized and
safe to use as you wish.

--
Enjoy Life... Nad R (Garden in zone 5a Michigan)

In article ,
Nad R wrote:

"DogDiesel" wrote:
"Billy" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Baz wrote:

"DogDiesel" wrote in
:

Do any of you go as far as having different soil mixes for different
plants in the garden. ?

Diesel.




Yes,
For example people usually add manure/compost when planting potatoes, add
lime for bressicas etc.
Or have I got the question wrong? I often do.

Baz
http://fieldcrop.msu.edu/documents/E2893.pdf

Adding manure directly before planting can
increase risk of disease, such as common scab
(Streptomyces scabie) in potato. Consider carefully
manure effects and disease potential before
incorporating manure in the spring. Composted
manure will generally be much safer and
reduce disease risk.
--
- Billy


Thanks Billy. What timing. I was just thinking of adding manure from
Tractor supply. I was going to dump it in the snow. For Spring. If you
put a lot of it in the composter bin. Will it make composting stop. Will it
Burn it or something.

Diesel.

Manure from the stores are typically sterilized. If so, it can be used
immediately in the garden. Most bags of compost/manure sold in stores are
mostly sterilized animal manure. Plant compost is the GOLD that most
gardeners want and is the best and not typically sold in stores, got to
make your own. Look on the bag for NPK amount it is usually around .5 for
each of the NPK values.

However, fresh animal manures need time in the sun to dry before using in
the compost piles or directly in the garden. Not a good thing to put down
fresh animal manure 90 days before planting, 180 days before harvest. I
would not put down fresh animal manure on wet ground or snow. Putting fresh
animal manure on wet areas may cause liquifying of the manure and cause
contamination of local well and water systems.

But if your buying your compost at a store it is probably sterilized and
safe to use as you wish.

To be on the safe side follow Dan's (Nad's) advice, which I'm sure was
meant to be "put down fresh animal manure 90 days before planting, 180
days before harvest." Cornell agrees as well
http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/orgmatter/index.html
I was sure that I had a reference to using fresh fertilizer with plants
(Fran and David apparently do), but I can't seem to find it. IIRC the
trick was not to splash water, which would transport the pathogens, onto
the edible parts of the plant in question. Such is my memory, but I
would follow the above advice until such time as there is a more
definitive answer.

Fran (FarmI) and I had a chin wag about this once and she came up with
http://books.google.com.au/books?id=...lpg=PA123&dq=N
PK+%22fresh+manure%22&source=web&ots=40vqJHGGn4&si g=i3jd5aL_vv2kQE0cegX6u
vfsoe8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=4&ct=resul t

It says of fresh vs rotted/aged manure that:
i) in the composting process, manure can lose up to half it's moisture
content and thus concentrate nutrients
ii) nitrogen in composted manure is fixed whereas in fresh, it's soluble
iii) solubility of P and K is greater in composted manure
and on P.125 it says that 'when manure is added directly to the soil, it
generally releases highly soluble nitrates that behave similarly to
chemical fertilisers, as well as ammonia, which can burn plant roots and
interfere with seed germination.'

Just so's you know, it is done both ways, but prudence must be used.

Adding manure to a garden in the winter where there is a good chance of
run-off, can lead to pollution of ground water, navigable waters, and
wells.
--
- Billy
“When you give food to the poor, they call you a saint. When you ask why the poor have no food, they call you a communist.�
-Archbishop Helder Camara
http://peace.mennolink.org/articles/...acegroups.html
http://english.aljazeera.net/indepth...130964689.html
20111812130964689.html

"Billy" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Nad R wrote:

"DogDiesel" wrote:
"Billy" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Baz wrote:

"DogDiesel" wrote in
:

Do any of you go as far as having different soil mixes for different
plants in the garden. ?

Diesel.




Yes,
For example people usually add manure/compost when planting potatoes,
add
lime for bressicas etc.
Or have I got the question wrong? I often do.

Baz
http://fieldcrop.msu.edu/documents/E2893.pdf

Adding manure directly before planting can
increase risk of disease, such as common scab
(Streptomyces scabie) in potato. Consider carefully
manure effects and disease potential before
incorporating manure in the spring. Composted
manure will generally be much safer and
reduce disease risk.
--
- Billy


Thanks Billy. What timing. I was just thinking of adding manure from
Tractor supply. I was going to dump it in the snow. For Spring. If
you
put a lot of it in the composter bin. Will it make composting stop.
Will it
Burn it or something.

Diesel.

Manure from the stores are typically sterilized. If so, it can be used
immediately in the garden. Most bags of compost/manure sold in stores are
mostly sterilized animal manure. Plant compost is the GOLD that most
gardeners want and is the best and not typically sold in stores, got to
make your own. Look on the bag for NPK amount it is usually around .5 for
each of the NPK values.

However, fresh animal manures need time in the sun to dry before using in
the compost piles or directly in the garden. Not a good thing to put
down
fresh animal manure 90 days before planting, 180 days before harvest. I
would not put down fresh animal manure on wet ground or snow. Putting
fresh
animal manure on wet areas may cause liquifying of the manure and cause
contamination of local well and water systems.

But if your buying your compost at a store it is probably sterilized and
safe to use as you wish.

To be on the safe side follow Dan's (Nad's) advice, which I'm sure was
meant to be "put down fresh animal manure 90 days before planting, 180
days before harvest." Cornell agrees as well
http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/orgmatter/index.html
I was sure that I had a reference to using fresh fertilizer with plants
(Fran and David apparently do), but I can't seem to find it. IIRC the
trick was not to splash water, which would transport the pathogens, onto
the edible parts of the plant in question. Such is my memory, but I
would follow the above advice until such time as there is a more
definitive answer.

Fran (FarmI) and I had a chin wag about this once and she came up with
http://books.google.com.au/books?id=...lpg=PA123&dq=N
PK+%22fresh+manure%22&source=web&ots=40vqJHGGn4&si g=i3jd5aL_vv2kQE0cegX6u
vfsoe8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=4&ct=resul t

It says of fresh vs rotted/aged manure that:
i) in the composting process, manure can lose up to half it's moisture
content and thus concentrate nutrients
ii) nitrogen in composted manure is fixed whereas in fresh, it's soluble
iii) solubility of P and K is greater in composted manure
and on P.125 it says that 'when manure is added directly to the soil, it
generally releases highly soluble nitrates that behave similarly to
chemical fertilisers, as well as ammonia, which can burn plant roots and
interfere with seed germination.'

Just so's you know, it is done both ways, but prudence must be used.

Adding manure to a garden in the winter where there is a good chance of
run-off, can lead to pollution of ground water, navigable waters, and
wells.
--
- Billy

Awesome stuff.

I appreciate the environmental input. However , Here. The water is if there
were wells, is not drinkable. And the ground and river are highly
contaminated by a steel plant, and farming runoff. I know for a fact I have
some type of steel plant slag under my soil two feet down from a flood
around1916. And theres kish from the plant that lands from the air .
Although their blast furnaces have been off for about two years. Over a
hundred plus years theres stuff in the soil. This is why I originally dug
18 inches out and filled in with horse manure 2 decades ago.

So, Im going to stick with my compost , and get a bunch of peat and sand to
mix in and use fish fertilizer again. There really isnt a problem. I was
just thinking of doing a general soil boost .




â?oWhen you give food to the poor, they call you a saint. When you ask why
the poor have no food, they call you a communist.â?�
-Archbishop Helder Camara
http://peace.mennolink.org/articles/...acegroups.html
http://english.aljazeera.net/indepth...130964689.html
20111812130964689.html