In article , Jon Green
writes
"dave @ stejonda" wrote:

Now, can anyone suggest what I might do to the things tonight to stop
them re-sprouting please - something which won't spread through the
soil.

A leylandii-hating cynic might think, "Hammer copper nails through the
trunks, wait for them to peg out, then chop 'em off at ground level."

Hello Jon
Long time no see !!!!!!!
--
Jane Ransom in Lancaster.
I won't respond to private emails that are on topic for urg
but if you need to email me for any other reason,
put jandg dot demon dot co dot uk where you see deadspam.com

In message , david
writes
If you've cut them hard back then the chances of them re sprouting is
almost non existent.

goodygoodygoody

--
dave @ stejonda

In message , Jon Green
writes
"dave @ stejonda" wrote:

Now, can anyone suggest what I might do to the things tonight to stop
them re-sprouting please - something which won't spread through the
soil.

A leylandii-hating cynic might think, "Hammer copper nails through the
trunks, wait for them to peg out, then chop 'em off at ground level."

I like the idea of being sure. What size copper nails do I need to head
out & buy for a surreptitious hammering session this afternoon?

--
dave @ stejonda

calculate your ecological footprint http://www.lead.org/leadnet/footprint/

"dave @ stejonda" muttered something
incoherent along the lines of:

I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one
edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I
am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What
would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously
relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect
catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is
probably 3". What do folks think?


Paging Steve Auvache!

(x-posted to ukrm for the Anglegrinder-o-philes there)
--
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On Wed, 20 Nov 2002 10:26:43 +0000, MrMoosehead
wrote:

"dave @ stejonda" muttered something
incoherent along the lines of:

I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one
edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I
am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What
would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously
relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect
catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is
probably 3". What do folks think?


Paging Steve Auvache!

(x-posted to ukrm for the Anglegrinder-o-philes there)

Hmmm., well I'd use the chainsaw, of course, but I guess an angle
grinder would work fine. I don't imagine there'd be any particular
safety issues, other than making sure the tree didn't fall on the
user.

Only problem being that 3" is deeper than the max cutting depth of
many of them (well, mines a 115mm? disc with a max cut of about 1.5" -
not sure what size the larger ones are) so he may have to cut all the
way round, IYSWIM.

--
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955i Sprint ST - For Sale
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(Nick Maclaren) wrote in
:

In article ,
Chris French and Helen Johnson wrote:

No need to worry, they won't (or shouldn't) resprout. Unlike deciduous
trees which will normally resprout in such situations (hence coppicing)
conifers don't.

ObPedant: except for the coast redwood and Cretan cypress, which do.
I don't know of any others that do reliably, but I have seen the odd
sprout from old wood on my Korean fir and a few others. Yews are not
conifers, of course.

I have one to add to your list, Nick - my Chamaecyparis pisifera
'Boulevard' got horribly abused while I was moving house and no-one
remembered to water it. It just had a tuft of green left on top and looked
very sad, - but is coming back beautifully now.

Which pleases me because I've had it about 15 years now, and it's almost 4
feet tall (if rather taller and thinner than it should be).

--
Victoria Clare
gardening high up in South East Cornwall
http://www.clareassoc.co.uk/
--

Jane Ransom wrote:

Hello Jon
Long time no see !!!!!!!

Hi Jane!

I've been lurking, but only occasionally; having worked myself witless
at work (first reason for newsgroup cut-down), I got laid off earlier
this month, so I've been working myself witless trying to find something
new (second reason).

So it goes. Still, until I've a new job, I've a little more time on my
hands. Well, until the baby arrives in a few weeks....


Jon
--
SPAM BLOCK IN USE! Replace 'deadspam' with 'green-lines' to reply in email.
Want a free solution to email spam? Try http://www.deadspam.com/
(Declaration of interest: I own/run the domain.)

In article
Victoria Clare writes:
| (Nick Maclaren) wrote in
| :
|
| ObPedant: except for the coast redwood and Cretan cypress, which do.
| I don't know of any others that do reliably, but I have seen the odd
| sprout from old wood on my Korean fir and a few others. Yews are not
| conifers, of course.
|
| I have one to add to your list, Nick - my Chamaecyparis pisifera
| 'Boulevard' got horribly abused while I was moving house and no-one
| remembered to water it. It just had a tuft of green left on top and looked
| very sad, - but is coming back beautifully now.

Interesting. I wonder how many species there are?


Regards,
Nick Maclaren,
University of Cambridge Computing Service,
New Museums Site, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QH, England.
Email:
Tel.: +44 1223 334761 Fax: +44 1223 334679

"dave @ stejonda" wrote:

I like the idea of being sure. What size copper nails do I need to head
out & buy for a surreptitious hammering session this afternoon?

Heh-heh! Dunno; I guess any size that's pure copper. You'd want to
have nail-heads small enough that they don't show, I s'pose, and bang
enough of them in to be sure.

It's probably considerate not to nail them in at a height that's likely
to be attacked by chainsaws, though: if the chainsaw blade hits metal,
it could cause injury to the chainsaw operator, although copper's softer
than steel, of course.

Not that I'd suggest doing this to someone else's leylandii, of course.
Strictly to nobble your own trees....

Jon
--
SPAM BLOCK IN USE! Replace 'deadspam' with 'green-lines' to reply in email.
Want a free solution to email spam? Try http://www.deadspam.com/
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"MrMoosehead" wrote in message
...
"dave @ stejonda" muttered something
incoherent along the lines of:

I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one
edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I
am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What
would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously
relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect
catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is
probably 3". What do folks think?


The heat generated by the high speed of the cutter would harden the juices
and cause the blade to stick.

--
Alan

GSX-R1000 , Triumph Thunderbird, ZXR750L2 Racer.
TGF, UKRMFBC#7, Two#24, BOTAFOF#11, YTC#9, GYASB#1. SbS#23.
DFWAG#2, DS#2, DIAABTCOD#20. NOPSPAM in the reply
http://sportsbike.org (our own endurance team) http://Team-ukrm.com
"Nemo repente fuit tur****imus"

'Twas Wed, 20 Nov 2002 10:47:43 +0000, when Victoria Clare
enriched all our lives with these worthy
thoughts:

I have one to add to your list, Nick - my Chamaecyparis pisifera
'Boulevard' got horribly abused while I was moving house and no-one
remembered to water it. It just had a tuft of green left on top and looked
very sad, - but is coming back beautifully now.

Which pleases me because I've had it about 15 years now, and it's almost 4
feet tall (if rather taller and thinner than it should be).

Dead easy to do cuttings - I'm on my 4th generation this
autumn : cuttings of a cutting of a cutting of the original
C.p.Boulevard I bought in '91.

The 1 or 2 yr old specimens are great in winter baskets or
tubs.

--
cormaic URG faqs/webring - www.tmac.clara.co.uk/urgring/
Culcheth Garden - www.tmac.clara.co.uk/garden/
Warrington Paving - www.pavingexpert.com/
Peoples' Republic of South Lancashire

cormaic CAN BE FOUND AT borlochshall.co.uk

"Alan T Gower" wrote in message
. ..
"MrMoosehead" wrote in message
...
"dave @ stejonda" muttered something
incoherent along the lines of:

I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one
edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I
am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What
would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously
relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect
catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is
probably 3". What do folks think?


The heat generated by the high speed of the cutter would harden the juices
and cause the blade to stick.

There are two options.

1. Go to a hire shop and hire a chain saw and do it yourself.

2. Have a word with a local farmer and get him to do it with a tractor.

Myself I use option 2. It only cost £10 to do about 240 feet hedge.

--
John

Riding a Honda CBR 600 FN

On Wed, 20 Nov 2002 10:26:43 +0000, MrMoosehead
wrote:

"dave @ stejonda" muttered something
incoherent along the lines of:

I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one
edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I
am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What
would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously
relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect
catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is
probably 3". What do folks think?


Paging Steve Auvache!

9" angle grinder but make sure you use cutting discs rather than
grinding discs. Personally I'd burn the bloody things but it's not my
choice :-(
--
Andy Bonwick
ZX9RE1
BOTAFOT#22,BONY#22,MRO#22,IBW#12,UKRMFBC#6, chi#2

MrMoosehead wrote:

"dave @ stejonda" muttered something
incoherent along the lines of:

I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one
edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I
am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What
would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously
relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect
catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is
probably 3". What do folks think?

Paging Steve Auvache!

IIRC you can get a "chainsaw" disc for angle grinders - possibly from
Machine Mart.

--
Platypus
VN800 Drifter Ain't no drag
R80RT Papa's got a brand new bag
DIAABTCOD#2 GPOTHUF#19 BOTAFOS#6
BOTAFOT#89 BOB#1 SBS#35
"I didn't have quite enough money
to get everything I wanted."

In message , Jon Green
writes
"dave @ stejonda" wrote:

I like the idea of being sure. What size copper nails do I need to head
out & buy for a surreptitious hammering session this afternoon?

Heh-heh! Dunno; I guess any size that's pure copper.

....and they, I discovered, are not so easy to find - especially with
tiny heads.

You'd want to
have nail-heads small enough that they don't show, I s'pose, and bang
enough of them in to be sure.

It's probably considerate not to nail them in at a height that's likely
to be attacked by chainsaws, though: if the chainsaw blade hits metal,
it could cause injury to the chainsaw operator, although copper's softer
than steel, of course.

I've just returned from a successful foray out this morning to bang the
nails in. Decided to do it before the workman (who seem to be ripping
the insides out of next door) arrive. Quite an interesting experience
that - creeping around at 0430 in the pouring rain banging copper nails
in trees - made me think of banging stakes into the hearts of vampires
g - this episode has brought a new aspect to my gardening life!

I decided, since I could only find Copper 'Clout' nails which have quite
large heads to go the easy route of banging them in around the perimeter
of the tops of the severed larger trunks. So I've made no attempt to
hide the evidence to anyone who's 8ft tall and looking. I just really
didn't fancy trying to fight my way through the thick lower growth to
find the trunks lower down. Hell, I'm surprised no-one called the
police, me sneaking around with my ladder in the dark.

Not that I'd suggest doing this to someone else's leylandii, of course.
Strictly to nobble your own trees....

Of course g. Well at the moment I'd argue they're nobody's trees - I'm
quite sure the land owner wouldn't want them if given the choice.

Thanks for all your help folks. Now, can anyone tell me *why* copper
nails are going to work?

--
dave @ stejonda

calculate your ecological footprint http://www.lead.org/leadnet/footprint/