I would like to use a systemic pesticide on my roses.

I've heard systemic pesticides can be very dangerous.

I've tried several different sprays and am not satisfied with the results.

Can anyone recommend a brand of systemic pesticide that is not so dangerous
to humans and pets?

Thanks,

Freckles

"Freckles" wrote

I grow all my roses in very large pots. Its a lot easier for me to fill up
a pot with good potting soil than it is to dig a large hole and fill it
back up.

I have tried soap solutions on my roses and they might have gotten get rid
of some aphids, but they have done partially nothing to reduce the white
fly population.

I bought a spray bottle of a pesticide spray, but after reading all the
hazards and warnings I stored the bottle on a shelf in my garage.

I would prefer to go organic, but that method just doesn't seem to be
working.



Roses are a magnet for insects... molds, smuts, all manner of nasties that
want to do in your roses.

Depending on the physical arrangement of your roses, if relatively close to
each other, you may want to look into ordering some ladybug or preying
mantis egg casings... although I think that is mostly a method to assuage
your psyche that you're doing the right thing. These are the natural
preditors of aphids, white flies, and other insects... I've tried it without
much luck, I think they migrated to a neighbor's garden. But to be
perfectly honest there is no sure fire organic insect control method... by
the time many of the so-called organic methods have some effect your plants
will be pretty much skeletonized... you'll get that good feeling that comes
with thinking you're doing the right thing but you won't get any roses.
Anytime you see a showcase rose garden you can bet your bippee they are
using chemical insecticides... if used judiciously they don't cause any
problems... choose the correct type and read and follow the directions... I
think you can find excellent help at jacksonandperkins.com

On 5/4/2009 10:08 PM, Freckles wrote:
I would like to use a systemic pesticide on my roses.

I've heard systemic pesticides can be very dangerous.

I've tried several different sprays and am not satisfied with the results.

Can anyone recommend a brand of systemic pesticide that is not so dangerous
to humans and pets?

Thanks,

Freckles

I use Bayer's Rose & Flower Care, which combines fertilizer and
systemic insecticide in a dry granular form. Although I feed my roses
every month from March through October, I use this product only
every-other month to get excellent results. In the alternating months,
I feed my roses with ammonium sulfate.

You might instead consider using Bayer's 12 Month Tree & Shrub Insect
Control, which is a systemic applied as a soil drench. I used this very
successfully to control leaf miners on citrus. It is considered
non-toxic to vertebrates (humans, other mammals, birds, reptiles, fish,
etc) and is thus safe on edibles. It controls such rose pests as aphid
and white fly. I haven't tried this on my own roses. You might call
your local agricultural extension to ask about using it. I will be
calling my county's agricultural extension when I replace my peach tree
to determine if it will control flat-headed bark borers since Lindane is
no longer available. NOTE: 12 Month Tree & Shrub Insect Control can be
quite expensive; it cost over $20 to give one treatment each to a dwarf
lemon and a dwarf orange.


--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

In article ,
"David E. Ross" wrote:

Bayer's 12 Month Tree & Shrub Insect
Control

David, if you and you other pesticide freaks would just give the
downside of the biocides that you recommend so easily, it would make it
easier for the recipient of your information to determine if it is
something that they want to do.

Imidacloprid

ECOLOGICAL INFORMATION
Environmental
Precautions
This product is highly toxic to birds and aquatic invertebrates. Do not
apply directly to water, to areas where surface water is present or to
intertidal areas below the mean high water mark. Apply this product
only as specified on the label.
http://www.cdms.net/ldat/mp8F5001.pdf

Why don't you learn about IPM so that you wouldn't have poison the
environment to solve a pest problem, or is it just easier to throw
poison-money at the problem, because you don't have the time to do it
right?

To put Integrated Pest Management and biocides in perspective, I'd
suggest that you read
"American Pests: The Losing War on Insects from Colonial Times to DDT"
by James E. McWilliams
http://www.amazon.com/American-Pests...l/dp/023113942
X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1238975011&sr=1-1

Your library should have it.

I'm still on your Christmas card list, aren't I?
--

- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being
is now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the
moment of conception until death." - Rachel Carson

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WI29wVQN8Go

http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1072040.html

On Tue, 5 May 2009 00:08:50 -0500, "Freckles"
wrote:

I would like to use a systemic pesticide on my roses.

I've heard systemic pesticides can be very dangerous.

I've tried several different sprays and am not satisfied with the results.

Can anyone recommend a brand of systemic pesticide that is not so dangerous
to humans and pets?

Thanks,

Freckles

I've planted garlic around the roses with good success. Definitely kid
and pet friendly.

Kate

In article ,
"brooklyn1" wrote:

"Freckles" wrote

I grow all my roses in very large pots. Its a lot easier for me to fill up
a pot with good potting soil than it is to dig a large hole and fill it
back up.

I have tried soap solutions on my roses and they might have gotten get rid
of some aphids, but they have done partially nothing to reduce the white
fly population.

I bought a spray bottle of a pesticide spray, but after reading all the
hazards and warnings I stored the bottle on a shelf in my garage.

I would prefer to go organic, but that method just doesn't seem to be
working.



Roses are a magnet for insects... molds, smuts, all manner of nasties that
want to do in your roses.

Depending on the physical arrangement of your roses, if relatively close to
each other, you may want to look into ordering some ladybug or preying
mantis egg casings... although I think that is mostly a method to assuage
your psyche that you're doing the right thing. These are the natural
preditors of aphids, white flies, and other insects... I've tried it without
much luck, I think they migrated to a neighbor's garden. But to be
perfectly honest there is no sure fire organic insect control method... by
the time many of the so-called organic methods have some effect your plants
will be pretty much skeletonized... you'll get that good feeling that comes
with thinking you're doing the right thing but you won't get any roses.
Anytime you see a showcase rose garden you can bet your bippee they are
using chemical insecticides... if used judiciously they don't cause any
problems... choose the correct type and read and follow the directions... I
think you can find excellent help at jacksonandperkins.com

Write down the names of the products then do a google search for them,
add a comma MSDS(,MSDS) (Material Safety Data Sheet). Yes some of these
biocides are highly effective at killing your pest, and any other
insect inside the perimeter of exposure. In medicine, the injunction is,
"First, do no harm", the same should hold true when treating the planet.
True, your roses may not look like they just came out of Photoshop but
is that so bad? We have grown roses organically for the last thirty
years, and if I do say so myself, they very pretty to see.
--

- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being
is now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the
moment of conception until death." - Rachel Carson

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WI29wVQN8Go

http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1072040.html

"Billy" wrote:
"brooklyn1" wrote:
"Freckles" wrote

I grow all my roses in very large pots. Its a lot easier for me to fill
up
a pot with good potting soil than it is to dig a large hole and fill it
back up.

I have tried soap solutions on my roses and they might have gotten get
rid
of some aphids, but they have done partially nothing to reduce the
white
fly population.

I bought a spray bottle of a pesticide spray, but after reading all the
hazards and warnings I stored the bottle on a shelf in my garage.

I would prefer to go organic, but that method just doesn't seem to be
working.

Roses are a magnet for insects... molds, smuts, all manner of nasties
that
want to do in your roses.

Depending on the physical arrangement of your roses, if relatively close
to
each other, you may want to look into ordering some ladybug or preying
mantis egg casings... although I think that is mostly a method to assuage
your psyche that you're doing the right thing. These are the natural
preditors of aphids, white flies, and other insects... I've tried it
without
much luck, I think they migrated to a neighbor's garden. But to be
perfectly honest there is no sure fire organic insect control method...
by
the time many of the so-called organic methods have some effect your
plants
will be pretty much skeletonized... you'll get that good feeling that
comes
with thinking you're doing the right thing but you won't get any roses.
Anytime you see a showcase rose garden you can bet your bippee they are
using chemical insecticides... if used judiciously they don't cause any
problems... choose the correct type and read and follow the directions...
I
think you can find excellent help at jacksonandperkins.com

Write down the names of the products then do a google search for them,
add a comma MSDS(,MSDS) (Material Safety Data Sheet). Yes some of these
biocides are highly effective at killing your pest, and any other
insect inside the perimeter of exposure. In medicine, the injunction is,
"First, do no harm", the same should hold true when treating the planet.
True, your roses may not look like they just came out of Photoshop but
is that so bad? We have grown roses organically for the last thirty
years, and if I do say so myself, they very pretty to see.


Well, you do a good tell, now do a good show.

Missouri

"David E. Ross" wrote in message
et...
On 5/4/2009 10:08 PM, Freckles wrote:
I would like to use a systemic pesticide on my roses.

I've heard systemic pesticides can be very dangerous.

I've tried several different sprays and am not satisfied with the
results.

Can anyone recommend a brand of systemic pesticide that is not so
dangerous
to humans and pets?

Thanks,

Freckles

I use Bayer's Rose & Flower Care, which combines fertilizer and
systemic insecticide in a dry granular form. Although I feed my roses
every month from March through October, I use this product only
every-other month to get excellent results. In the alternating months,
I feed my roses with ammonium sulfate.

You might instead consider using Bayer's 12 Month Tree & Shrub Insect
Control, which is a systemic applied as a soil drench. I used this very
successfully to control leaf miners on citrus. It is considered
non-toxic to vertebrates (humans, other mammals, birds, reptiles, fish,
etc) and is thus safe on edibles. It controls such rose pests as aphid
and white fly. I haven't tried this on my own roses. You might call
your local agricultural extension to ask about using it. I will be
calling my county's agricultural extension when I replace my peach tree
to determine if it will control flat-headed bark borers since Lindane is
no longer available. NOTE: 12 Month Tree & Shrub Insect Control can be
quite expensive; it cost over $20 to give one treatment each to a dwarf
lemon and a dwarf orange.


--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

Thanks for the information.

I just order some Bayer insect control plus fertilizer plant spikes which
seem to be just what I want.

I've been watching the organic vs. chemical debate for years. I have tried
to go organic, but with very limited success. The plant stakes I've ordered
seem safe enough and they are not too expensive. Much of the organic
materials I've used were a lot more expensive than chemicals and in many
cases I needed to use much more of them to get the same results I could have
gotten with a few chemicals.

If my grand dad had tried to go organic on our farm, we would have starved.

Freckles

On Tue, 5 May 2009 20:30:04 -0500, "Freckles"
wrote:


"David E. Ross" wrote in message
net...
On 5/4/2009 10:08 PM, Freckles wrote:
I would like to use a systemic pesticide on my roses.

I've heard systemic pesticides can be very dangerous.

I've tried several different sprays and am not satisfied with the
results.

Can anyone recommend a brand of systemic pesticide that is not so
dangerous
to humans and pets?

Thanks,

Freckles

I use Bayer's Rose & Flower Care, which combines fertilizer and
systemic insecticide in a dry granular form. Although I feed my roses
every month from March through October, I use this product only
every-other month to get excellent results. In the alternating months,
I feed my roses with ammonium sulfate.

You might instead consider using Bayer's 12 Month Tree & Shrub Insect
Control, which is a systemic applied as a soil drench. I used this very
successfully to control leaf miners on citrus. It is considered
non-toxic to vertebrates (humans, other mammals, birds, reptiles, fish,
etc) and is thus safe on edibles. It controls such rose pests as aphid
and white fly. I haven't tried this on my own roses. You might call
your local agricultural extension to ask about using it. I will be
calling my county's agricultural extension when I replace my peach tree
to determine if it will control flat-headed bark borers since Lindane is
no longer available. NOTE: 12 Month Tree & Shrub Insect Control can be
quite expensive; it cost over $20 to give one treatment each to a dwarf
lemon and a dwarf orange.


--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

Thanks for the information.

I just order some Bayer insect control plus fertilizer plant spikes which
seem to be just what I want.

I don't know anything about what you ordered, but I recently fed the
roses an "organic" food that my dog couldn't resist eating. I'm
thinking about re-applying, but I'll block off his access first.

Kate

On 5/5/2009 6:30 PM, Freckles wrote:
"David E. Ross" wrote in message
et...
On 5/4/2009 10:08 PM, Freckles wrote:
I would like to use a systemic pesticide on my roses.

I've heard systemic pesticides can be very dangerous.

I've tried several different sprays and am not satisfied with the
results.

Can anyone recommend a brand of systemic pesticide that is not so
dangerous
to humans and pets?

Thanks,

Freckles
I use Bayer's Rose & Flower Care, which combines fertilizer and
systemic insecticide in a dry granular form. Although I feed my roses
every month from March through October, I use this product only
every-other month to get excellent results. In the alternating months,
I feed my roses with ammonium sulfate.

You might instead consider using Bayer's 12 Month Tree & Shrub Insect
Control, which is a systemic applied as a soil drench. I used this very
successfully to control leaf miners on citrus. It is considered
non-toxic to vertebrates (humans, other mammals, birds, reptiles, fish,
etc) and is thus safe on edibles. It controls such rose pests as aphid
and white fly. I haven't tried this on my own roses. You might call
your local agricultural extension to ask about using it. I will be
calling my county's agricultural extension when I replace my peach tree
to determine if it will control flat-headed bark borers since Lindane is
no longer available. NOTE: 12 Month Tree & Shrub Insect Control can be
quite expensive; it cost over $20 to give one treatment each to a dwarf
lemon and a dwarf orange.


--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

Thanks for the information.

I just order some Bayer insect control plus fertilizer plant spikes which
seem to be just what I want.

I've been watching the organic vs. chemical debate for years. I have tried
to go organic, but with very limited success. The plant stakes I've ordered
seem safe enough and they are not too expensive. Much of the organic
materials I've used were a lot more expensive than chemicals and in many
cases I needed to use much more of them to get the same results I could have
gotten with a few chemicals.

If my grand dad had tried to go organic on our farm, we would have starved.

Freckles

Too many people confuse "organic" with "natural". For my comments on
this, see my http://www.rossde.com/garden/garden_organic.html.

My own gardening practices involve a mix of organic methods and
non-organic methods.

I produce my own compost (actually, a leaf mold), which I add to my
potting mix to inject the mix with the kinds of soil bacteria that are
needed to convert nutrients into forms that plant roots can absorb. I
use bone meal and blood meal in my potting mix for house plants. I
generally wait for ladybugs to deal with aphids. (I don't have to buy
and disperse them; they come naturally.)

To combat brown snails (Helix aspersa, also known as Cantareus
aspersus), I can't use poisonous snail bait because my tortoise would
then eat the still toxic dead snails. Instead, I use carnivorous
decollate snails (Rumina decollata), which eat the eggs and young of the
brown snails. I also wrap copper wire around flower pots containing
plants that are especially attractive to brown snails.

On the other hand, I feed my roses, citrus, and other plants with
chemical fertilizers. After pruning them, I spray my peach, roses, and
grapes with a mix of dormant oil and copper sulfate. Newly planted
flowering shrubs have super-phosphate dug into the soil below their root
balls. Yes, I do use systemic insecticides on my roses and citrus and
Roundup on thistles sprouting on my hill. As for my leaf mold, I
accelerate its decomposition by adding urea (50-0-0) to the pile.

Am I an environmental rogue? I don't think so. Birds and squirrels
seem to enjoy my garden. Raccoons steal my grapes. Many, many bees
constantly visit my flowers. And Cleopatra -- an endangered California
desert tortoise (Gopherus agassizii) -- has happily grazed in my back
yard since 1977. (Before you consider reporting me for having a
contraband tortoise, Cleopatra is already registered with the California
Department of Fish and Game; she is legal.)

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

On May 5, 1:08*am, "Freckles" wrote:
I would like to use a systemic pesticide on my roses.

I've heard systemic pesticides can be very dangerous.

Systemic means it's taken up and circulated within the
entire plant. Systemics are really only dangerous if
you eat some part of the treated plant.

I've tried several different sprays and am not satisfied with the results..

Can anyone recommend a brand of systemic pesticide that is not so dangerous
to humans and pets?

For white flies or aphids, insecticidal soap (topical,
not systemic) -- homebrew from Bronner's or dish
soap works as well as more expensive commercial
preps. Don't waste money on commercial soaps
with neem, if my experience is any indication.

For aphids, lady bugs do a great job and tend to
stay put, unlike mantises.

On Tue, 5 May 2009 00:08:50 -0500, "Freckles"
wrote:

I would like to use a systemic pesticide on my roses.

I've heard systemic pesticides can be very dangerous.

Anything misused can be dangerous. For example, water can be very
dangerous.


I've tried several different sprays and am not satisfied with the results.


Not all systemic products are sprayed. Spraying can be hazardous due
to inhalation.


Can anyone recommend a brand of systemic pesticide that is not so dangerous
to humans and pets?

There are Rose Food/Systemic products that are applied to the soil,
scratched in and the pesticide is taken up by the roots.

I use the Ortho product (Bayer makes one too) on my roses only. I am
willing to try other remedies, that is, if there is one that I have
not tried. Aphids are hard to control.




Thanks,

Freckles

On Tue, 05 May 2009 13:09:31 -0400, Sheila
wrote:
....

Doesn't Milorganite control deer too? I thought I heard that, if so
that a double good.


Don't believe it. I used Milorganite over one acre of land, and the
deer kept coming. Human hair and Irish Spring don't work either. The
things that might protect plants from deer are

electric fence
fifteen foot fence
netting
tall grass or wire mesh (chicken wire) on the ground
pit bull
a lot of deer stew

Of course, there are different kinds of deer depending on your
location. We have "mule deer" in east TN, they are large with large
ears.

"Sheila" wrote:

Well, we didn't like deer even before we moved here.


What's not to like... deer are gentle creatures, they bother no one... I
like having deer around. Besides, they supply free fertilizer.




\

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 5 May 2009 00:08:50 -0500, "Freckles"
wrote:

I would like to use a systemic pesticide on my roses.

I've heard systemic pesticides can be very dangerous.

Anything misused can be dangerous. For example, water can be very
dangerous.


I've tried several different sprays and am not satisfied with the results.


Not all systemic products are sprayed. Spraying can be hazardous due
to inhalation.


Can anyone recommend a brand of systemic pesticide that is not so
dangerous
to humans and pets?

There are Rose Food/Systemic products that are applied to the soil,
scratched in and the pesticide is taken up by the roots.

I use the Ortho product (Bayer makes one too) on my roses only. I am
willing to try other remedies, that is, if there is one that I have
not tried. Aphids are hard to control.




Thanks,

Freckles

I have ordered Bayer's systemic pesticide/food spikes.

Supposedly one just shoves a spike into the ground next to the rose and it
will kill pests and feed the plant for up to 2 months.

Sprays of all kinds bother me. The thought of breathing any of them scares
me.

If the spikes work, I think that will be the easiest and safest way to take
care of my roses.

Freckles