On 20/01/2013 10:47, Dave West wrote:
Want to really waterproof my new leather boots. I have heard that dubbin
will rot leather and can soften it too much, and even ordinary shoe polish
with its 'spirit' content will dry out leather and do it no favours.

I do have a tube of silicon grease would. Would that be a good idea or might
it also damage the leather? Grateful for suggestions.


As someone else pointed out NIKWAX

When I had new Army boots ... Liquid NIKWAX first, helped them break-in,
they plain Nikwax .......... helps if boots are warm (put them in airing
cupboard or similar) then rub NIKWAK in with the fingers.
Heat and pressure will work it in ....

On 20/01/2013 11:17, michael adams wrote:
"Dave West" wrote in message
...
Want to really waterproof my new leather boots. I have heard that dubbin will
rot leather

Really ?

It was claimed at one point that amino acids in dubbin can
affect stitching. There has never been a recorded case of
dubbin ever rotting leather.

Dubbin is fairly chaep to produce and has been used in various
formulations without problems on saddlery etc for hundreds
of years.

Which is clearly an unsatisfactory state of affairs, if you'd
rather sell branded gunk to a gullible public at a 500% mark up.

In a Wilkison's near you. They used to sell Dales dubbin at
65p per tin, but maybe Dales got taken over as its now Cherry
Blossom Dubbin at £1 a tin.


michael adams


and can soften it too much, and even ordinary shoe polish with its 'spirit'
content will dry out leather and do it no favours.

I do have a tube of silicon grease would. Would that be a good idea or might
it also damage the leather? Grateful for suggestions.


I would not use Silicon grease.
Dubbin works fine but never really 'sets' so boots stay greasy, and then
picks up sand & dust which sticks to it.
NIKWAX

On 20/01/2013 13:58, wrote:
In article ,
Dave West wrote:

But it depends on what you mean by "really waterproof" - at most,
you can waterproof them for two days' of use, they will start to
leak on the third day and get worse thereafter. If you can dry
boots out overnight and treat them in the morning, fine, but that's
impossible on multi-day trips. I know of no solution for such use,
based on leather boots or otherwise - and nor do the army!

I saw a documentary on the falklands conflict the other day and it said the
army had trouble with trench foot (from having wet feet) over that long walk
they had to do there.

The British army had a little trouble, but not much, because the
conditions were the same as the ones they had trained in (in the
Highlands). The Argentine conscripts were in really bad shape.
Trench foot is caused by extended periods of cold, wet feet (not
just wet); extended periods of hot, wet feet causes other problems,
and is a major problem in tropical jungles.

It did make me wonder why they dont go for those all rubber lace up boots,
which are fine for the colder locations. (i did have a pair once, came from
malaysia).

Not really, because they don't breathe, so sweat accumulates.

The problems the Brits had were due to the moulded sole construction
of their boots and the fact they were a little on the short side. Some
of the Argies had rather good boots which were much sought after by
our chaps.
--
Phil Cook

On Sun, 20 Jan 2013 18:34:51 +0000, Phil Cook
wrote:

On 20/01/2013 13:58, wrote:
In article ,
Dave West wrote:

But it depends on what you mean by "really waterproof" - at most,
you can waterproof them for two days' of use, they will start to
leak on the third day and get worse thereafter. If you can dry
boots out overnight and treat them in the morning, fine, but that's
impossible on multi-day trips. I know of no solution for such use,
based on leather boots or otherwise - and nor do the army!

I saw a documentary on the falklands conflict the other day and it said the
army had trouble with trench foot (from having wet feet) over that long walk
they had to do there.

The British army had a little trouble, but not much, because the
conditions were the same as the ones they had trained in (in the
Highlands). The Argentine conscripts were in really bad shape.
Trench foot is caused by extended periods of cold, wet feet (not
just wet); extended periods of hot, wet feet causes other problems,
and is a major problem in tropical jungles.

It did make me wonder why they dont go for those all rubber lace up boots,
which are fine for the colder locations. (i did have a pair once, came from
malaysia).

Not really, because they don't breathe, so sweat accumulates.

The problems the Brits had were due to the moulded sole construction
of their boots and the fact they were a little on the short side. Some
of the Argies had rather good boots which were much sought after by
our chaps.

Still made in Argentina to the same quality standard. These are the
boots I was talking about elsewhere in the thread.

Nick

"Rick Hughes" wrote in message
...
On 20/01/2013 11:17, michael adams wrote:
"Dave West" wrote in message
...
Want to really waterproof my new leather boots. I have heard that dubbin
will
rot leather

Really ?

It was claimed at one point that amino acids in dubbin can
affect stitching. There has never been a recorded case of
dubbin ever rotting leather.

Dubbin is fairly chaep to produce and has been used in various
formulations without problems on saddlery etc for hundreds
of years.

Which is clearly an unsatisfactory state of affairs, if you'd
rather sell branded gunk to a gullible public at a 500% mark up.

In a Wilkison's near you. They used to sell Dales dubbin at
65p per tin, but maybe Dales got taken over as its now Cherry
Blossom Dubbin at £1 a tin.


michael adams


and can soften it too much, and even ordinary shoe polish with its 'spirit'
content will dry out leather and do it no favours.

I do have a tube of silicon grease would. Would that be a good idea or might
it also damage the leather? Grateful for suggestions.


I would not use Silicon grease.
Dubbin works fine but never really 'sets' so boots stay greasy, and then picks
up sand & dust which sticks to it.

If used sparingly but regularly and left overnight dubbin
buffs up to a respectable sheen if not quite a mirror finish
with no hint of stickiness. It can also be used on leather bike
saddles both underneath and on top where it polishes up
to a proper shine.


michael adams

....






NIKWAX

On Sun, 20 Jan 2013 11:26:48 +0000, usenet2012
wrote:

In message , Dave West
writes
Want to really waterproof my new leather boots. I have heard that dubbin
will rot leather and can soften it too much, and even ordinary shoe polish
with its 'spirit' content will dry out leather and do it no favours.

I do have a tube of silicon grease would. Would that be a good idea or might
it also damage the leather? Grateful for suggestions.

I use Renapur Leather Balsam on both our leather furniture and footware.
They say apply with a sponge but I prefer to use a finger. Smells good
too.

That's the one I use. Bought it at a garden show some years ago. It
does a really good job. I use the sponge supplied.


Pam in Bristol

"Pam Moore" wrote in message
...

On Sun, 20 Jan 2013 11:26:48 +0000, usenet2012
wrote:

In message , Dave West
writes
Want to really waterproof my new leather boots. I have heard that dubbin
will rot leather and can soften it too much, and even ordinary shoe
polish
with its 'spirit' content will dry out leather and do it no favours.

I do have a tube of silicon grease would. Would that be a good idea or
might
it also damage the leather? Grateful for suggestions.

I use Renapur Leather Balsam on both our leather furniture and footware.
They say apply with a sponge but I prefer to use a finger. Smells good
too.

That's the one I use. Bought it at a garden show some years ago. It
does a really good job. I use the sponge supplied.


Pam in Bristol

I find Nikwax works well. I just work it in with my fingers.

Mike

On 20/01/2013 11:27, Janet wrote:
In article , lid
says...

Want to really waterproof my new leather boots. I have heard that dubbin
will rot leather and can soften it too much,

We've used dubbin on leather boots for decades and have had no
problems you mention. Our boots are that smooth-finish hide, not
the finish like suede (can't understand why anybody chooses that finish
for walking or walking boots).

I think the idea of "reversed leather" is to keep the skin-side inside,
where it won't get scuffed. How well that works in practice is
anybody's guess, I've never had a pair like that.


IMO dubbin keeps leather flexible and
waterproof which is what I want.

The "dubbin rots stitching" rumour has been going around since I were a
lad, so fifty years at least.

On my previous Scarpa Monte Rosa's I used the olive-oil treatment: pour
oil into one boot until it's full, leave until it starts to ooze out,
pour into other boot, ditto. Pour remaining oil into bottle for next
treatment, oil remaining in boot will sink into the leather. Obviously
you get your olive oil from the vet, not some extra virgin at the
supermarket.

Worked an absolute treat, the boots stayed waterproof and flexible for
years.

Modern boots have inconvenient linings and also the leather is
frequently treated before you get them e.g. Scarpa with HS12, so you
apply more HS12 or Aqueous Nikwax, which Scarpa endorses.

On Mon, 21 Jan 2013 13:31:46 +0000, Alan Dicey wrote:

On 20/01/2013 11:27, Janet wrote:
In article , lid
says...

Want to really waterproof my new leather boots. I have heard that dubbin
will rot leather and can soften it too much,

We've used dubbin on leather boots for decades and have had no
problems you mention. Our boots are that smooth-finish hide, not
the finish like suede (can't understand why anybody chooses that finish
for walking or walking boots).

I think the idea of "reversed leather" is to keep the skin-side inside,
where it won't get scuffed. How well that works in practice is
anybody's guess, I've never had a pair like that.

IMO dubbin keeps leather flexible and
waterproof which is what I want.

The "dubbin rots stitching" rumour has been going around since I were a
lad, so fifty years at least.

On my previous Scarpa Monte Rosa's I used the olive-oil treatment: pour
oil into one boot until it's full, leave until it starts to ooze out,
pour into other boot, ditto. Pour remaining oil into bottle for next
treatment, oil remaining in boot will sink into the leather. Obviously
you get your olive oil from the vet, not some extra virgin at the
supermarket.

ISTR castor oil being mentioned in here - was that so?

Worked an absolute treat, the boots stayed waterproof and flexible for
years.

Modern boots have inconvenient linings and also the leather is
frequently treated before you get them e.g. Scarpa with HS12, so you
apply more HS12 or Aqueous Nikwax, which Scarpa endorses.

Anybody know what HiTech's IonMask is like for performance and durability.
The hydrophobic treatments rely on cleanliness - not easy with garments and
impossible with boots.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 21/01/13 14:07, PeterC wrote:

Anybody know what HiTech's IonMask is like for performance and durability

Rubbish.

On 21/01/2013 14:07, PeterC wrote:
On Mon, 21 Jan 2013 13:31:46 +0000, Alan Dicey wrote:



The "dubbin rots stitching" rumour has been going around since I were a
lad, so fifty years at least.

On my previous Scarpa Monte Rosa's I used the olive-oil treatment: pour
oil into one boot until it's full, leave until it starts to ooze out,
pour into other boot, ditto. Pour remaining oil into bottle for next
treatment, oil remaining in boot will sink into the leather. Obviously
you get your olive oil from the vet, not some extra virgin at the
supermarket.

ISTR castor oil being mentioned in here - was that so?

Peter, you're quite right it was castor oil. Oh, the embarassment . . .

"Alan Dicey" wrote
On my previous Scarpa Monte Rosa's I used the olive-oil treatment: pour
oil into one boot until it's full, leave until it starts to ooze out,
pour into other boot, ditto. Pour remaining oil into bottle for next
treatment, oil remaining in boot will sink into the leather. Obviously
you get your olive oil from the vet, not some extra virgin at the
supermarket.


Peter:
ISTR castor oil being mentioned in here - was that so?

Peter, you're quite right it was castor oil. Oh, the embarassment . . .

Don't suppose it works very well on Gortex lined boots?
--
Lyndon

In article ,
Alan Dicey wrote:
On 21/01/2013 14:07, PeterC wrote:

On my previous Scarpa Monte Rosa's I used the olive-oil treatment: pour
oil into one boot until it's full, leave until it starts to ooze out,
pour into other boot, ditto. Pour remaining oil into bottle for next
treatment, oil remaining in boot will sink into the leather. Obviously
you get your olive oil from the vet, not some extra virgin at the
supermarket.

ISTR castor oil being mentioned in here - was that so?

Peter, you're quite right it was castor oil. Oh, the embarassment . . .

Not compared to the embarrassment caused by mixing those up when
cooking :-)


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

"Alan Dicey" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 21/01/2013 14:07, PeterC wrote:
On Mon, 21 Jan 2013 13:31:46 +0000, Alan Dicey wrote:



The "dubbin rots stitching" rumour has been going around since I were a
lad, so fifty years at least.

On my previous Scarpa Monte Rosa's I used the olive-oil treatment: pour
oil into one boot until it's full, leave until it starts to ooze out,
pour into other boot, ditto. Pour remaining oil into bottle for next
treatment, oil remaining in boot will sink into the leather. Obviously
you get your olive oil from the vet, not some extra virgin at the
supermarket.

ISTR castor oil being mentioned in here - was that so?

Peter, you're quite right it was castor oil. Oh, the embarassment . . .

Pretty cheeks though ... g

--
--
http://www.shop.helpforheroes.org.uk/

On 21/01/2013 15:57, Lyndon wrote:
"Alan Dicey" wrote
On my previous Scarpa Monte Rosa's I used the olive-oil treatment: pour
oil into one boot until it's full, leave until it starts to ooze out,
pour into other boot, ditto. Pour remaining oil into bottle for next
treatment, oil remaining in boot will sink into the leather. Obviously
you get your olive oil from the vet, not some extra virgin at the
supermarket.


Peter:
ISTR castor oil being mentioned in here - was that so?

Peter, you're quite right it was castor oil. Oh, the embarassment . . .

Don't suppose it works very well on Gortex lined boots?

Indeed it would completely stop the Goretex from working. Might make
the boots more waterproof though . . .

My experience with Goretex lined boots is that the lining lets in water
after a short while. I suspect it tears along the stitching attaching
the sole, but that's just a guess.