Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii
I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one
edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is probably 3". What do folks think? -- dave @ stejonda calculate your ecological footprint http://www.lead.org/leadnet/footprint/ |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii
"dave @ stejonda" wrote in message ... I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is probably 3". What do folks think? -- dave @ stejonda calculate your ecological footprint http://www.lead.org/leadnet/footprint/ Hi Dave, When you say handsaw do you mean a pruning saw or a bow saw? A good sharp bow saw should do the job as quickly and effortlessly as an angle grinder. I don't think I'd like to use an angle grinder - something spinning that fast at just above head level, when a large section of tree is about to land on it could mean trouble. Just had a look on the B&Q site - they have the Wilkinson Sword 21" bow saw for £9.98 HTH Cheers Nick http://www.ukgardening.co.uk |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii
In article , "dave @ stejonda" writes: | I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one | edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I | am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What | would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously | relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect | catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is | probably 3". What do folks think? This is where you want a Star Wars sword/torch/whatsit :-) More seriously, the reason that you take too long with a hand saw is that you have an inadequate hand saw. If you get a decent bow saw with a decent blade, then cutting through 3" of leylandii is nothing - under a minute, even for a horizontal cut. CONSIDERABLY faster than you will do it with an angle grinder. For 3" trunks, any saw size from 18" upwards will be fine. Regards, Nick Maclaren, University of Cambridge Computing Service, New Museums Site, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QH, England. Email: Tel.: +44 1223 334761 Fax: +44 1223 334679 |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii
In message , Nick Gray
writes "dave @ stejonda" wrote in message ... I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is probably 3". What do folks think? When you say handsaw do you mean a pruning saw or a bow saw? A good sharp bow saw should do the job as quickly and effortlessly as an angle grinder. Ahh, good point. I've been using a bow saw which was new last year. Maybe I just need to replace it/blade. I don't think I'd like to use an angle grinder - something spinning that fast at just above head level, when a large section of tree is about to land on it could mean trouble. Very true. Just had a look on the B&Q site - they have the Wilkinson Sword 21" bow saw for £9.98 wow! - thanks. -- dave @ stejonda calculate your ecological footprint http://www.lead.org/leadnet/footprint/ |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii
"dave @ stejonda" wrote:
I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is probably 3". What do folks think? What Nick said. Bow saw is by far the easiest, and I'd be worried about an angle-grider jamming. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii
"dave @ stejonda" wrote:
I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is probably 3". What do folks think? FWIW, what I think is that you'll wreck the AG disc (by gacking it up with sap you can't completely clean off afterwards). It'd be much cheaper to buy the right tool (sharp saw) for the job than to replace the disc. Failing that, consider hiring a chainsaw from a local supplier. Don't use HSS (or similar), use an agri hire company; much cheaper. Jon (who still lurks here occasionally) -- SPAM BLOCK IN USE! Replace 'deadspam' with 'green-lines' to reply in email. Want a free solution to email spam? Try http://www.deadspam.com/ (Declaration of interest: I own/run the domain.) |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii
I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one
edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is probably 3". What do folks think? Three inches -- pah!? A new bow saw blade will be through that in 30 seconds, and with an assistant pulling the trunk away from the saw cut witha rope you won't even need to cut a "kerf" out first to stop it binding. Please, please don't hire a chainsaw unless you've been trained how to use it, even to drop little leylandii. Especially don't use one up a ladder... |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii
Xref: 127.0.0.1 uk.rec.gardening:162315
Andrew wrote: Please, please don't hire a chainsaw unless you've been trained how to use it, even to drop little leylandii. Especially don't use one up a ladder... Gets my vote - Really. -- William Tasso |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii
In message , Andrew
writes Three inches -- pah!? A new bow saw blade will be through that in 30 seconds, and with an assistant pulling the trunk away from the saw cut witha rope you won't even need to cut a "kerf" out first to stop it binding. I fact whilst the main trunks were 3" this ~50ft row of trees had been repeatedly hacked over the years so that the actual width of the row was (still is what's left) around 8ft (yes, eight feet!) along most of it. I've now done the deed. I had no assistant - no time to arrange one and SO busy working so did have to contend with some binding. Long-handled loppers did for the smaller stuff quite adequately. "kerf"? wotsat? - no time for fine details like that!!! Please, please don't hire a chainsaw unless you've been trained how to use it, even to drop little leylandii. Especially don't use one up a ladder... No, I'm glad I stayed away from power for that little job. Incidentally, the rush was that the house next door, in the garden of which this row of terror was, is rented. The existing tenant died recently and having been ill for quite some time (and therefore having been unable, despite repeated promises, to sort the trees) I was advised this morning off-the record by an agent for the lessors that rather than trying to get the landowner to do something it would be best if I hacked them before the new tenants moved in - which could be tomorrow. I hope they'll be happy with my work, it can only benefit them as well (I'm aware this is a self-serving argument). Now, can anyone suggest what I might do to the things tonight to stop them re-sprouting please - something which won't spread through the soil. -- dave @ stejonda calculate your ecological footprint http://www.lead.org/leadnet/footprint/ |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii
Now, can anyone suggest what I might do to the things tonight to stop
them re-sprouting please - something which won't spread through the soil. -- dave @ stejonda Dave, I don't think there is much you can do. Some plants can be sprayed with a hormone treatment which slows down growth. I don't know the name of the hormone/chemical but the product most often seen in GC's goes under the trade name of Cutlass. It's only suitable for certain plants, and I think it's not suitable for leylandii. You can maybe check, but I think you're out of luck, unless anyone else has any ideas. Personally I'd have the things out completely as they're such a pain to keep looking tidy and managable. Sorry I don't have netter news. Dave. |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii
In message , DaveDay34
writes Now, can anyone suggest what I might do to the things tonight to stop them re-sprouting please - something which won't spread through the soil. Dave, I don't think there is much you can do. Some plants can be sprayed with a hormone treatment which slows down growth. I don't know the name of the hormone/chemical but the product most often seen in GC's goes under the trade name of Cutlass. It's only suitable for certain plants, and I think it's not suitable for leylandii. You can maybe check, but I think you're out of luck, unless anyone else has any ideas. Personally I'd have the things out completely as they're such a pain to keep looking tidy and managable. Sorry I don't have netter news. That's Ok Dave, thanks for the thought. Cutlass (heh thinks... if it's not suitable for leylandii maybe it would poison them :~ ) would presumably need reapplying periodically and on someone else's trees (as they will be) I don't think I could really do that. Hopefully I can establish good relations with the new neighbours and convince them of the need to get rid of them in toto. -- dave @ stejonda calculate your ecological footprint http://www.lead.org/leadnet/footprint/ |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii
In message , "dave @ stejonda"
writes In message , Andrew writes Re leylandii: Now, can anyone suggest what I might do to the things tonight to stop them re-sprouting please - something which won't spread through the soil. No need to worry, they won't (or shouldn't) resprout. Unlike deciduous trees which will normally resprout in such situations (hence coppicing) conifers don't. You can leave the stumps if you are happy to leave them , or dig them out. -- Chris French and Helen Johnson, Leeds urg Suppliers and References FAQ: http://www.familyfrench.co.uk/garden/urgfaq/index.html |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii
"dave @ stejonda" wrote:
Now, can anyone suggest what I might do to the things tonight to stop them re-sprouting please - something which won't spread through the soil. A leylandii-hating cynic might think, "Hammer copper nails through the trunks, wait for them to peg out, then chop 'em off at ground level." Jon -- SPAM BLOCK IN USE! Replace 'deadspam' with 'green-lines' to reply in email. Want a free solution to email spam? Try http://www.deadspam.com/ (Declaration of interest: I own/run the domain.) |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii
If you've cut them hard back then the chances of them re sprouting is almost
non existent. -- David Hill Abacus Nurseries www.abacus-nurseries.co.uk |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii
In article ,
Chris French and Helen Johnson wrote: In message , "dave @ stejonda" writes Now, can anyone suggest what I might do to the things tonight to stop them re-sprouting please - something which won't spread through the soil. No need to worry, they won't (or shouldn't) resprout. Unlike deciduous trees which will normally resprout in such situations (hence coppicing) conifers don't. ObPedant: except for the coast redwood and Cretan cypress, which do. I don't know of any others that do reliably, but I have seen the odd sprout from old wood on my Korean fir and a few others. Yews are not conifers, of course. Regards, Nick Maclaren, University of Cambridge Computing Service, New Museums Site, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QH, England. Email: Tel.: +44 1223 334761 Fax: +44 1223 334679 |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
ww grinder - shredder parts?? | Lawns | |||
For Padraig: different kinds of gardens & folliage - Coffee Grinder Flower Planter, Bar Harbor, Maine.jpg 256100 bytes | Garden Photos | |||
Hand Grinder for Horseradish | Gardening | |||
Buy Live Fish Live Plants Live Food Online In Canada | Freshwater Aquaria Plants | |||
[IBC] new die grinder | Bonsai |