On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:59:12 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Jul 1, 7:16*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 7/1/2011 8:28 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

I've seen 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4. What other sizes have you
found, for garden hose?

it also comes in 1"

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

I hardly think anyone would classify a 1" hose as a 'garden hose'.

Why not, that's what it's called... not everyone has a widdle
garden... many commercial nurserys use 1" garden hose, enables them to
shoot greater volume further.

On Sat, 2 Jul 2011 00:09:53 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Jul 1, 12:58*pm, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 07:22:22 -0700 (PDT), Harry K

wrote:
On Jun 30, 9:12 am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:22:08 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only diameter
matters.

Because friction in the pipe will reduce pressure by a bunch.

A "bunch"... is that universally recognized scientific nomenclature?
Internal turbulence does not occur to any appreciable degree in
typical hard pipe, especially not with smooth plastic irrigation
tubing. *Fire hose is coarsely woven cloth so is rough and does cause
turbulence but still reduction in volume is negligible considering the
very high pressure pumps used for fire fighting... were it presenting
a water volume problem you could bet your bippee that fire fighters
would use something else. *I can't imagine anyone using fire hose to
water their garden. *However gals like fire fighters watering their
gardens because of their big rough hoses with all their volume and
high pressure... and especially how they fold up so neatly for storage
in their drawers. LOL-LOL

I hook up 50 ft of 5/8" garden hose to the sill cock at my house and
measure the water that flows out over 1 minute. I do the same thing
with 500 ft of the same hose. According to what you're claiming when
I measure it over 1 minute, the same amount of water will flow. You
have much experience here on planet Earth?

You've never done that, you don't have anymore 5/8" hose than your one
50' length or you could actually try it... I have many 100' lengths of
5/8" hose and have actually done what you suggest... whatever volume
goes in one end comes out the other end... or do you mean when your
mommy pinches your widdle peepee while changing your nappy.

On Sat, 2 Jul 2011 17:30:45 +1000, "David Hare-Scott"
wrote:

James wrote:
Thanks David, and the others. First, I don't know what a "nym" is,
but sorry....

You started of as James Nipper now you are just James


My faucets at the cabin are based on the cabin water system, which is
a well, with a pressure tank in the basement. I get good pressure (60
psi), and the poly pipe will not go uphill.

As for drilling a new well, come on guys, I am talking about watering
a few plants and bushes, I just dont' want to constantly drag hoses
around. That is all that this is about. I do appreciate all the
help, and I think that the polypipe is my best bet, although David's
last comments may make me consider smaller, perhaps 3/4 inch. BTW, I
don't need much pressure at the end, just enough to do some
light watering.
James

I was suggesting that 1" could be too small not too big. 3/4" will flatten
and kink more than 1" and has about half the capacity. It's the area of the
pipe cross section that is important so the capacity varies as the square of
the diameter. Go see that irrigation specialist.

All an irrigation specialist needs to know is his well capacity and
exit pipe diameter.. I seriously doubt his little cabin's water system
can accomodate more than 3/4" outlet piping.

"Steve B" wrote:

I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about
500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the
current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main
line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use,
I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could
get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something.

Investigate underground piping, and associated valves. There is one that
opens a valve in the ground below freezing level, and when the water is
turned off, drains the water in the stand pipe to keep it from freezing. No
need to totally drain the lines if you put them in deep enough. Not sure of
their name, but I have seen lots of them in freezing country. They are red,
and have a crooked handle top.

Those work like frost proof hose bibs coming through a basement
foundation, the warmth of the basement prevents freezing because the
valve stem is long enough to reach through the foundation wall to the
valve that is actually inside the basement... I have four of them in
my house... they work well providing they are pitched downward so they
drain when the valve is closed... costs about four times as much as an
ordinary hose bib, maybe $30 for a 1/2" supply line. Farmers use the
type you're talking about, the warmer ground keeps them from
freezing... the valve portion is down below the frost line with a very
long valve stem... they are quite expensive, especially as pipe
diameter increases... they need to be blown out before the first hard
frost. There's another type that municipal water companys install at
the curb in cold climes, they are way down in a vault that's installed
past the frost line, with a long handled wrench to operate the valve,
again very expensive.

http://www.theplumbinginfo.com/troub...-and-spigot-2/

On Jul 2, 10:50*am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jul 2011 00:09:53 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On Jul 1, 12:58 pm, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 07:22:22 -0700 (PDT), Harry K

wrote:
On Jun 30, 9:12 am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:22:08 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only diameter
matters.

Because friction in the pipe will reduce pressure by a bunch.

A "bunch"... is that universally recognized scientific nomenclature?
Internal turbulence does not occur to any appreciable degree in
typical hard pipe, especially not with smooth plastic irrigation
tubing. Fire hose is coarsely woven cloth so is rough and does cause
turbulence but still reduction in volume is negligible considering the
very high pressure pumps used for fire fighting... were it presenting
a water volume problem you could bet your bippee that fire fighters
would use something else. I can't imagine anyone using fire hose to
water their garden. However gals like fire fighters watering their
gardens because of their big rough hoses with all their volume and
high pressure... and especially how they fold up so neatly for storage
in their drawers. LOL-LOL

I hook up 50 ft of 5/8" garden hose to the sill cock at my house and
measure the water that flows out over 1 minute. *I do the same thing
with 500 ft of the same hose. *According to what you're claiming when
I measure it over 1 minute, the same amount of water will flow. *You
have much experience here on planet Earth?

You've never done that, you don't have anymore 5/8" hose than your one
50' length or you could actually try it... I have many 100' lengths of
5/8" hose and have actually done what you suggest... whatever volume
goes in one end comes out the other end... or do you mean when your
mommy pinches your widdle peepee while changing your nappy.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Of course whatever volume goes in one end comes out the other.
That has nothing to do with what you claimed, which is that the
volume of water flowing through a pipe depends ONLY ON THE
DIAMETER. The volume of water flowing through a pipe depends
on the diameter, length, and pressure. The narrower the pipe the
more resistance to flow if has. The longer the pipe the more
resistance to flow it has. That's how the laws of
physics apply here on planet Earth. So if you connect 50 ft
of garden hose to your home which has a water pressure of
50lbs you're going to get MORE water coming out the other
end than if you connect 250 ft of hose. And if you connect a
long enough length of hose you will get zero flow because
50 lbs isn't enough pressure to overcome the total resistance.
Capiche?


And for someone so obviously ignorant, I would not be
taking cheap shots at others here.

On Jul 2, 10:38*am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:56:51 -0700 (PDT), Harry K





wrote:
On Jun 30, 8:36 pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 6/30/2011 9:22 AM, Bob F wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

it'll pass as much water as a same sized poly or pvc.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Didn't know you could even buy w5/8" polyi or pvc. *That's mighty
small hole to push water that far. *There is a reason why plumbing
tables increase pipe size for distance.

Nope, plumbing tables increase pipe diameter by how many taps branch
off... there is no benefit to increasing diameter for just point to
point. *You obviously don't own your own home.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Tell that to oil companies. I guess they are just stupid to build
the Alaskan pipeline, for example, which is 4 ft in diameter and
runs point to point. They should have consulted you and done it
with a pipe 2" in diameter.

On Jul 2, 10:57*am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jul 2011 17:30:45 +1000, "David Hare-Scott"





wrote:
James wrote:
Thanks David, and the others. *First, I don't know what a *"nym" is,
but sorry....

You started of as James Nipper now you are just James

My faucets at the cabin are based on the cabin water system, which is
a well, with a pressure tank in the basement. *I get good pressure (60
psi), and the poly pipe will not go uphill.

As for drilling a new well, come on guys, I am talking about watering
a few plants and bushes, I just dont' want to constantly drag hoses
around. That is all that this is about. * I do appreciate all the
help, and I think that the polypipe is my best bet, although David's
last comments may make me consider smaller, perhaps *3/4 *inch. * BTW, I
don't need much pressure at the end, just enough to do some
light watering.
James

I was suggesting that 1" could be too small not too big. *3/4" will flatten
and kink more than 1" and has about half the capacity. *It's the area of the
pipe cross section that is important so the capacity varies as the square of
the diameter. *Go see that irrigation specialist.

All an irrigation specialist needs to know is his well capacity and
exit pipe diameter.. I seriously doubt his little cabin's water system
can accomodate more than 3/4" outlet piping.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You are such a complete moron it isn't even funny. Have you seen
many wells with a 3/4 inch connection?

On 7/2/2011 10:38 AM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:56:51 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Jun 30, 8:36 pm, Steve wrote:
On 6/30/2011 9:22 AM, Bob F wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

it'll pass as much water as a same sized poly or pvc.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Didn't know you could even buy w5/8" polyi or pvc. That's mighty
small hole to push water that far. There is a reason why plumbing
tables increase pipe size for distance.

Nope, plumbing tables increase pipe diameter by how many taps branch
off... there is no benefit to increasing diameter for just point to
point. You obviously don't own your own home.

Sounds like someone is an "expert" who doesn't understand both basic
physics and standard practice that results from it..

Nad R wrote:
"Bob F" wrote:
Nad R wrote:
Michigan is not like California, fresh water is cheap and plentiful
here. The reason people do not like Michigan is the long cold
winters.

I don't like Michigan because of the climate. Hot and humid summers,
cold winters.

I like the change. I will watch the fireworks from a friends boat on
Lake St Clair on the 4th. Happy 4th of July

I spent many many hours on Lake St Clair when I grew up. One of those Michigan
weather memories - Deciding it was time to let go of the water ski rope because
I was gettting too hot.

Another memory - Not having to parallel park during my drivers test because
there was no place in town to do it - snowbanks filled them all up.

wrote:
On Jul 2, 10:50 am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jul 2011 00:09:53 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On Jul 1, 12:58 pm, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 07:22:22 -0700 (PDT), Harry K

wrote:
On Jun 30, 9:12 am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:22:08 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only
diameter matters.

Because friction in the pipe will reduce pressure by a bunch.

A "bunch"... is that universally recognized scientific
nomenclature? Internal turbulence does not occur to any
appreciable degree in typical hard pipe, especially not with
smooth plastic irrigation tubing. Fire hose is coarsely woven
cloth so is rough and does cause turbulence but still reduction in
volume is negligible considering the very high pressure pumps used
for fire fighting... were it presenting a water volume problem you
could bet your bippee that fire fighters would use something else.
I can't imagine anyone using fire hose to water their garden.
However gals like fire fighters watering their gardens because of
their big rough hoses with all their volume and high pressure...
and especially how they fold up so neatly for storage in their
drawers. LOL-LOL

I hook up 50 ft of 5/8" garden hose to the sill cock at my house and
measure the water that flows out over 1 minute. I do the same thing
with 500 ft of the same hose. According to what you're claiming when
I measure it over 1 minute, the same amount of water will flow. You
have much experience here on planet Earth?

You've never done that, you don't have anymore 5/8" hose than your
one 50' length or you could actually try it... I have many 100'
lengths of 5/8" hose and have actually done what you suggest...
whatever volume
goes in one end comes out the other end... or do you mean when your
mommy pinches your widdle peepee while changing your nappy.- Hide
quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Of course whatever volume goes in one end comes out the other.
That has nothing to do with what you claimed, which is that the
volume of water flowing through a pipe depends ONLY ON THE
DIAMETER. The volume of water flowing through a pipe depends
on the diameter, length, and pressure. The narrower the pipe the
more resistance to flow if has. The longer the pipe the more
resistance to flow it has. That's how the laws of
physics apply here on planet Earth. So if you connect 50 ft
of garden hose to your home which has a water pressure of
50lbs you're going to get MORE water coming out the other
end than if you connect 250 ft of hose. And if you connect a
long enough length of hose you will get zero flow because
50 lbs isn't enough pressure to overcome the total resistance.
Capiche?


And for someone so obviously ignorant, I would not be
taking cheap shots at others here.

He's a know-it-all, who doesn't. Ho's obviously never done the tests he claims
he has, as the reported results are physically impossible. OR, his water supply
is so limited that it can't show him real world results.

Steve Barker wrote:
On 7/1/2011 7:13 PM, Bob F wrote:
Steve Barker wrote:
On 6/30/2011 11:00 PM, Bob F wrote:
Steve Barker wrote:
On 6/30/2011 9:22 AM, Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.



it'll pass as much water as a same sized poly or pvc.

Exactly. That's why you use larger poly or PVC than the common
garden hose.

OR you could use a larger garden hose. duh.

Do you have a 1" or 1.5" garden hose?



Have some 1". yes.

The largest "garden hose" I've ever seen is 3/4", and that's hard to find. Most
is 1/2" or 5/8". My long garden hose is two 3/4" hoses together, a 75' and a
50'. 3/4" is because with that length, smaller hose just won't get enough water
through to run large volume sprinklers the way I need.

Steve Barker wrote:
On 7/1/2011 8:28 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've seen 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4. What other sizes have you
found, for garden hose?



http://www.factorydirecthose.com/sit...2/page/3845476

http://www.gemplers.com/product/1258...en-Garden-Hose

http://www.nextag.com/1-inch-water-hose/products-html

http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CGgQ8wIwBA

Not cheap, is it. Also, not the kind of thing you find in big city box stores.

I'd like to find someone throwing away a couple hundred feet of that hose.

George wrote:
On 7/2/2011 10:38 AM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:56:51 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Jun 30, 8:36 pm, Steve wrote:
On 6/30/2011 9:22 AM, Bob F wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

it'll pass as much water as a same sized poly or pvc.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Didn't know you could even buy w5/8" polyi or pvc. That's mighty
small hole to push water that far. There is a reason why plumbing
tables increase pipe size for distance.

Nope, plumbing tables increase pipe diameter by how many taps branch
off... there is no benefit to increasing diameter for just point to
point. You obviously don't own your own home.

Sounds like someone is an "expert" who doesn't understand both basic
physics and standard practice that results from it..

He's funny. Not even a basic understanding of fluid flows. A classic
know-it-all.

Notice that "length" is one of the factors in calculating flow rates.
http://www.efunda.com/formulae/fluid...e_friction.cfm

FarmI wrote:
"Colbyt" wrote in message
...

"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
message ...
First thing comes to mind, is sunlight and the UV rays. So,
what you use should be UV resistant.

White PVC tubing might work for a while.

I have black polypipe that's been in the sunlight for up to 20
years. The biggest danger to my black polypipe has been from my
garden fork and frost popping the connectors off.


quoteBlack HDPE pipe containing 2 to 2.5% carbon black can be
safely stored outside in the sun without damage from UV exposure.
/quote source: http://www.polymoldproducts.com/PE_PIPES.htm

Some poly pipe can take it and some apparently can not.

It'd be as useless as tits on a man's back if it couldnt' be used out
in the sun in Australia.

Even in Seattle?

Brooklyn1 wrote:
I ran 1" PVC about a 1/4 mile buried in 1976. Still in service today
with no leaks. Same for all my sprinkler lines. Only leak I have
had was one fitting where I made the misstake of using a female
PVC/male Iron fitting. NEVER do that! Always use a malepvc/female
iron. Much fun as it broke in the middle of winter and I had to shut
off the the entire line until spring so I could dig it up.

Where do you live that you're irrigating in winter... and if you live
in a warm clime where one irrigates all year WTF mention winter, and
if it's warm enough to irrigate WTF would you need to wait until
spring to dig... are you fibbing? From reading your posts you're just
making it ALL up... "iron" irrigation fittings your ass.

Iron - maybe "galvanized iron" pipe would help you understand.

You really are full of it aren't you. The more you talk, the better we can see
that you know nothing. There are plenty of possible reasons to need water during
the winter.

It is common knowledge that Female PVC fittings don't hold up well, whether the
male fitting is PVC, iron pipe, or even brass. The Female fittings tend to leak,
until you tighten them down enough, then they split.