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#1
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres
of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400 feet away from the house. I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all seems so "temporary." I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something. Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to accomplish what I am trying to do ? thanks !! James |
#2
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
On 6/29/2011 7:30 PM, James Nipper wrote:
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400 feet away from the house. I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all seems so "temporary." I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something. Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to accomplish what I am trying to do ? thanks !! James Poly pipe is great for underground lines. It doesn't lay flat very well so I'm not sure how it would work above ground. Here's a link: http://www.aquascience.net/pipe/index.cfm?id=552 |
#3
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
RBM wrote:
On 6/29/2011 7:30 PM, James Nipper wrote: I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400 feet away from the house. I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all seems so "temporary." I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something. Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to accomplish what I am trying to do ? thanks !! James Poly pipe is great for underground lines. It doesn't lay flat very well so I'm not sure how it would work above ground. Here's a link: http://www.aquascience.net/pipe/index.cfm?id=552 A small air compressor can blow the lines clear of water for the winter. Fifteen pounds of pressure should do the job. I use a quick release adapter for the compressor and the adapter attached to a short water hose. Just make sure the end of the line is open for drainage. I just use the underground lines just for watering the plants around my home, not in distant areas. The biggest problem you are going to have is water pressure at the end of 500 feet depending on the pressure you already have. An extra water tank could be used that is under greater pressure than the household pressure could solve that problem if needed, but not a cheap option. Or slowly fill up a cistern at the end of the line and use pump to water the area needed. Again depending on your home water pressure, those extra methods may not be needed. -- Enjoy Life... Nad R (Garden in zone 5a Michigan) |
#4
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
RBM wrote:
On 6/29/2011 7:30 PM, James Nipper wrote: I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400 feet away from the house. I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all seems so "temporary." I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something. Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to accomplish what I am trying to do ? thanks !! James Poly pipe is great for underground lines. It doesn't lay flat very well so I'm not sure how it would work above ground. Here's a link: http://www.aquascience.net/pipe/index.cfm?id=552 You don't say where this water is coming from. Is it town water, well water, what? If you are laying pipe then poly pipe is what you need, it will be the cheapest choice for such a distance. All the fittings you would ever want are available. It can be laid underground if the ground isn't too rocky. The quickest method is with a ripper/feeder on a tractor. This is a blade that cuts a slit trench that has a metal tube behind it, you feed the poly down the tube into the slit as the tractor moves at walking pace, then you tred the slit down and it's done. OTOH it can also be laid along fences on top of the ground. If going to this much trouble don't do it in 12mm (1/2 inch pipe) but somewhere around 32mm (1 1/4 ") to 40mm (1 1/2 "). This solution depends on what is pumping the water and how much rise or fall there is along the length. The joints in polypipe are easily undone to allow draining by gravity, ground slope permitting. A quite different solution: what about saving water adjacent to the area that you want to water? I am thinking of a tank collecting water from the roof of an outbuilding or a small dam/pond in a gully. David |
#5
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
On 6/29/2011 7:30 PM, James Nipper wrote: I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400 feet away from the house. I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all seems so "temporary." I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something. Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to accomplish what I am trying to do ? It would help to know what water volume, how often, and what climate. If you'e on a well your system may not be capable of raising water very high so it would help to know your topography. Six acres is not very much area, if essentially square then the distance from center to the perimeter is not very far. If there is a centrally located high point you might consider erecting a tank, either on the ground or on a tower... fill the tank with a pump and let gravity work with hose(s) to reach your various watering points. Personally for watering a few plants here and there I'd fit a wagon with a tank and with a tractor tow the water wagon to whatever needs watering... that is exactly how I water my plants... if you ever tried to drag a couple of hundred feet of hose, especially filled with water you'd soon give that up. And attempting to bury pipe in forested/raw land without heavy excavating equipment is practically impossible. |
#6
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
On 6/29/11 6:30 PM, James Nipper wrote:
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400 feet away from the house. I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all seems so "temporary." I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something. Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to accomplish what I am trying to do ? thanks !! James I wonder if you could find some used hand move sprinkler line. The stuff I'm thinking of is 4" aluminum and has a coupler for a sprinkler at each joint. It usually came in 30' or 40' sections. You could just pull it apart to drain it or put a valve at a joint now and then. One drawback might be its temptation to thieves. |
#7
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
It would help to know what water volume, how often, and what climate. If you'e on a well your system may not be capable of raising water very high so it would help to know your topography. Six acres is not very much area, if essentially square then the distance from center to the perimeter is not very far. If there is a centrally located high point you might consider erecting a tank, either on the ground or on a tower... fill the tank with a pump and let gravity work with hose(s) to reach your various watering points. Personally for watering a few plants here and there I'd fit a wagon with a tank and with a tractor tow the water wagon to whatever needs watering... that is exactly how I water my plants... if you ever tried to drag a couple of hundred feet of hose, especially filled with water you'd soon give that up. And attempting to bury pipe in forested/raw land without heavy excavating equipment is practically impossible. I have done the wagon thing, it is a pain in the... Takes time to fill them up and time to drain it. I however typically use the lengthy hose. I have four one hundred foot lite weight hoses with quick connectors. I mean do not get the heavy duty hoses because they are heavy. I can set up the hoses and take them down in less than thirty minutes. I often use a soaker hose or soaker wand at the receiving end because pressure is diminished for spraying. One thing about lite weight hoses. Do not leave the hose set up in the hot sun with the pressure on and water not flowing. The water will heat up and bust the hose on a hot day. But lite weight hoses are easy to carry or put in a garden wagon. One can rent a walk behind "Ditch Witch" for digging trenches. Four hundred feet would take eight hours depending on terrain. Some cheap "Ditch Witches" can beat you up at the end of the day, good models will not. -- Enjoy Life... Nad R (Garden in zone 5a Michigan) |
#8
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
"James Nipper" wrote in message
net... I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400 feet away from the house. I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all seems so "temporary." I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something. Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to accomplish what I am trying to do ? I don't know what country you're in but I use polypipe to take water all over the place and since a lot of it has now been in place for up to 20 years, I don't consider it to be temporary. I use 2 inch, 1 inch and three quarter inch. Very little of this is laid underground except for perhaps 20 ft of the 2 inch stuff that forms a main artery. Some of the 1 inch and three quarters of an inch stuff has become covered over the eyars as drebris drops on top of it. I have a main 2 inch line coming from our big tank (cistern in USian) and then I run one inch and 3/4 inch withint the veg garden and in the orchard and down to the chook pen and also from another 2 inch pipe down at the pond at the bottom of the garden. Lay it out on a hot summers day when the sun helps it to lie out better and carry some hot water to do all the connections and it's an easy job. One hint would be that if you manage to find little sprinkler heads that you like, buy a truck load. I am reduced to 2 heads of my favourites. |
#9
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
"Dean Hoffman" wrote in message
... On 6/29/11 6:30 PM, James Nipper wrote: I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400 feet away from the house. I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all seems so "temporary." I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something. Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to accomplish what I am trying to do ? thanks !! James I wonder if you could find some used hand move sprinkler line. The stuff I'm thinking of is 4" aluminum and has a coupler for a sprinkler at each joint. It usually came in 30' or 40' sections. You could just pull it apart to drain it or put a valve at a joint now and then. One drawback might be its temptation to thieves. Good Lord. That stuff would now have antique value wouldn't it Dean? |
#10
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
"James Nipper" wrote in message
net... I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400 feet away from the house. I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all seems so "temporary." I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something. Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to accomplish what I am trying to do ? Go to your local hardware store, find an old guy, then tell him what you want to do. He can show you what is available there in the store and give you suggestions. |
#11
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
First thing comes to mind, is sunlight and the UV rays. So,
what you use should be UV resistant. White PVC tubing might work for a while. The cost of fittings might add up. Typically sold in 10 foot lengths, and the tubing is relatively rigid. The new "Pex" stuff they sell for indoor water tubing may work, but not sure how UV resistant it is. They also sell some grey tubing for electrical conduit, which might be more UV resistant, but not sure it's used for outdoor water. As to winter, may be able to to blow it out with compressed air, and leave it dry. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "James Nipper" wrote in message net... I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400 feet away from the house. I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all seems so "temporary." I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something. Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to accomplish what I am trying to do ? thanks !! James |
#12
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
If you have a garden tractor and trailer of some kind. A 12
volt "spot sprayer" from Harbor Freight may make more sense than running water tubing from the house. http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt...ayer-9583.html Fill it at the house, drive it out in the trailer, and spray with the garden tractor motor running to supply power. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "James Nipper" wrote in message net... I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400 feet away from the house. |
#13
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?
-- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "RBM" wrote in message ... Poly pipe is great for underground lines. It doesn't lay flat very well so I'm not sure how it would work above ground. Here's a link: http://www.aquascience.net/pipe/index.cfm?id=552 |
#14
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
On 6/29/2011 6:30 PM, James Nipper wrote:
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400 feet away from the house. I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all seems so "temporary." I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something. Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to accomplish what I am trying to do ? thanks !! James you could use PEX or PVC, but both are weakened by long term exposure to UV (sun) So you'd have to paint them with some light colored exterior latex after laying them out. I'd suspect they'd give you 5 or 6 years service without paint. (my experience) then they start to get brittle. -- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email |
#15
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose? A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water. |
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