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#61
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
In article ,
Nad R wrote: "FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote: "Nad R" wrote in message However I did state that I tend to use a soaker hose that I do not raise the tail of the hose. The sprayer does not work very good because it does lack pressure. If you have low water pressure, I can recommend these: http://www.greenharvest.com.au/tools...kler_prod.html The spiky little head in the middle is like a small basket that wobbles. The wobble action throws the spay quite wide even if the pressure is woeful. Here's another variant: http://www.wobble-tee.com.au/ That is something I did not believe existed. I will look for a local version first. Thank for the information on that. The soaker hoses are nice but have their limitations. and so does shooting water into the air. You must have water to burn. -- - Billy Mad dog Republicans to the right. Democratic spider webs to the left. True conservatives, and liberals not to be found anywhere in the phantasmagoria of the American political landscape. America is not broke. The country is awash in wealth and cash. It's just that it's not in your hands. It has been transferred, in the greatest heist in history, from the workers and consumers to the banks and the portfolios of the uber-rich. http://www.politifact.com/wisconsin/.../michael-moore /michael-moore-says-400-americans-have-more-wealth-/ |
#62
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
In article , "Bob F"
wrote: Brooklyn1 wrote: On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 18:05:26 -0400, "Stormin Mormon" wrote: When I was in the fire service, we learned that both length and diameter matters. Smaller hose increases pressure drop, usually measured in psi drop per 100 feet of length. 500 foot hose has 5 times the pressure drop of 100 foot hose. Prove it. You obviously weren't paying attention in class... so long as pressure and diameter remains constant volume remains constant... it's when there is pressure loss and diameter decreases that volume decreases... fire hose diameter reduces even when moved around corners... every sailer learns this from shipboard fire control tutorials. And were you truly in fire service you'd know that fire hose lays flat when unpressurized and it's diameter changes with changes in pressure... all you did at the firehouse is polish the firemen's poles. Too bad you're wrong. As water moves through a pipe, the sides of the pipe cause friction, resulting in pressure loss. The longer the pipe and larger the speed of the water through the pipe, the more pressure loss, so less water gets pushed out the end of a longer pipe. That's why they use larger pipes for longer runs. The larger pipe reduces the pressure losses, so you can get the desired volume out of the longer pipe. It's called laminar flow http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laminar_flow -- - Billy Mad dog Republicans to the right. Democratic spider webs to the left. True conservatives, and liberals not to be found anywhere in the phantasmagoria of the American political landscape. America is not broke. The country is awash in wealth and cash. It's just that it's not in your hands. It has been transferred, in the greatest heist in history, from the workers and consumers to the banks and the portfolios of the uber-rich. http://www.politifact.com/wisconsin/.../michael-moore /michael-moore-says-400-americans-have-more-wealth-/ |
#63
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
thanks for all the helpful posts....... I think that the 1 inch polypipe is
the way to go !! James |
#64
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
On Jun 29, 6:30*pm, "James Nipper"
wrote: I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, *two acres of which are cleared and developed. *I have areas away from the house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. *Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400 feet away from the house. I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of *"T's" * add several branches *(hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all seems so *"temporary." I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? *(The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). * *Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something. Any ideas of what I should look for, *or use ? *Any general ideas of how to accomplish what I am trying to do ? Why not set up a system for gravity flow irrigation, like the farmers that grow rice have? All you need is a laser level and some sheet plastic for ditch liners. Or if you simply prefer to spend money, have a small well drilled at the site needing the water. Then a couple of 100' hoses will serve any part of the acreage. Joe |
#65
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
On 7/1/2011 11:37 AM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
On Fri, 01 Jul 2011 06:10:11 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote: On 7/1/2011 4:31 AM, FarmI wrote: "Bob wrote in message ... Stormin Mormon wrote: First thing comes to mind, is sunlight and the UV rays. So, what you use should be UV resistant. White PVC tubing might work for a while. The cost of fittings might add up. Typically sold in 10 foot lengths, and the tubing is relatively rigid. White PVC will be weakened by UV. Works great buried. The new "Pex" stuff they sell for indoor water tubing may work, but not sure how UV resistant it is. Most Pex is easily damaged by UV. They also sell some grey tubing for electrical conduit, which might be more UV resistant, but not sure it's used for outdoor water. It's not rated for that. Which brings us back to black poly pipe. Ah! Thank you for mentioning it. Given all the other posts where there has been no mention of black polypipe except for a very early post, but some other things I've never heard of and UV, I was beginning to wonder if black polypipe hadn't made it to US. Back in the late 1950's and early 1960's, 2 inch black poly pipe is what my father used to get water from our spring's pump house to the water system at our home on the farm. We had to make sure the buried pipe was in a bed of sand because 200 yards of plastic pipe will move when pressurized. On more than one occasion a small stone would rub a hole into the pipe so we had to dig it up, patch the pipe with a plastic coupling then rebury it with sand around it. I remember the pipe as having a fairly thick wall and not being very flexible. I never heard of buried poly moving from being pressurized... perhaps your system was prone to air locks, which is easy to eliminate by installing a simple device that cushions the system. Anyone installing an irrigation system from their domestic water needs to install an anti backflow valve or they are looking for big trouble. Oh it had a check valve at the pump but the pipe went straight for a distance then down into a gully where the spring was located. No matter what material a pipe is made of, it's going to move when pressurized. Pipe will also move with a change in temperature. Look at how metal pipe is supported in different situations. The longer the pipe the more movement becomes a problem. TDD |
#66
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 10:50:51 -0700 (PDT), Joe wrote:
On Jun 29, 6:30*pm, "James Nipper" wrote: I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, *two acres of which are cleared and developed. *I have areas away from the house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. *Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400 feet away from the house. I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of *"T's" * add several branches *(hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all seems so *"temporary." I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? *(The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). * *Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something. Any ideas of what I should look for, *or use ? *Any general ideas of how to accomplish what I am trying to do ? Why not set up a system for gravity flow irrigation, like the farmers that grow rice have? All you need is a laser level and some sheet plastic for ditch liners. Or if you simply prefer to spend money, have a small well drilled at the site needing the water. You slip that in so nonchalantly... there is no such thing as drilling a small well on the cheap. |
#67
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:.
Will likely never hear from that poster again... lots of new large property owners think exactly the same thing, they are going to pipe their irrigation water... just won't work unless one spends a LOT of bucks. Originally I thought I would pipe water but fortunately all I did was buy ten 100' lengths of 5/8" Swan garden hose... first time I charged just three lenghts and tried to drag it about I knew I ****ed up, could give ya a hernia. But that hose was on sale at Lowe's for $10 each and ten years later I'm still using that hose, some is on my hose reels, so no loss. I even have two lengths still unused. Each length came with one of those multi-spray nozzles, cheapo plastic, all are shit canned... ever you buy a nozzle be sure it's metal. I also started off with buried lines, i removed the worthless expensive lines. I now use light weight hoses with quick connect links and use a garden wagon to move the segments around. I do not use the hose that often perhaps one a week on average. I had those heavy duty hoses at first, I have them still, but they can cause a hernia. I like the light weight ones. It would take more time for me fill barrels and get the tractor out that for me to use hoses. -- Enjoy Life... Nad R (Garden in zone 5a Michigan) |
#68
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
Billy wrote:
In article , Nad R wrote: "FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote: "Nad R" wrote in message However I did state that I tend to use a soaker hose that I do not raise the tail of the hose. The sprayer does not work very good because it does lack pressure. If you have low water pressure, I can recommend these: http://www.greenharvest.com.au/tools...kler_prod.html The spiky little head in the middle is like a small basket that wobbles. The wobble action throws the spay quite wide even if the pressure is woeful. Here's another variant: http://www.wobble-tee.com.au/ That is something I did not believe existed. I will look for a local version first. Thank for the information on that. The soaker hoses are nice but have their limitations. and so does shooting water into the air. You must have water to burn. My well has never gone dry and have let it runs for hours on end. However, I do not use the hose that often. Just between rains and when the rain barrels run dry. My barrels are now dry as of today. I am hoping for rain soon. Only a 30% chance of rain for today and tomorrow. I estimate running my well, filters, salt and power cost no more than twenty dollars per month. Michigan is not like California, fresh water is cheap and plentiful here. The reason people do not like Michigan is the long cold winters. -- Enjoy Life... Nad R (Garden in zone 5a Michigan) |
#69
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
James wrote:
thanks for all the helpful posts....... I think that the 1 inch polypipe is the way to go !! James James Could I make a couple of suggestions. Don't change nyms from one part of a thread to another, nobody will know that you are the OP. Answer some of the questions and provide more information. You haven't said where the water is coming from or how much you need at the destination. You haven't given us enough to make a guess if 1" polypipe will in fact be adequate. You don't want to go to the trouble of buying and laying the pipe to discover that it doesn't work. If the inlet pressure is not very high 1" may be too narrow to give the outlet flow you want, if it is going up hill you might get a tiny flow at the outlet or none at all. Also 1" has a tendency to kink and get flattened very easily. If using 1" DON'T use push fittings (bayonet fittings) they will pop off all the time if put under pressure, use the more expensive fittings that clamp the pipe with a nut. A knowledgeable irrigation equipment supplier will be able to advise you correctly, whether such is available near you is another issue. David |
#70
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
Thanks David, and the others. First, I don't know what a "nym" is, but
sorry.... My faucets at the cabin are based on the cabin water system, which is a well, with a pressure tank in the basement. I get good pressure (60 psi), and the poly pipe will not go uphill. As for drilling a new well, come on guys, I am talking about watering a few plants and bushes, I just dont' want to constantly drag hoses around. That is all that this is about. I do appreciate all the help, and I think that the polypipe is my best bet, although David's last comments may make me consider smaller, perhaps 3/4 inch. BTW, I don't need much pressure at the end, just enough to do some light watering. James |
#71
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
Steve Barker wrote:
On 6/30/2011 11:00 PM, Bob F wrote: Steve Barker wrote: On 6/30/2011 9:22 AM, Bob F wrote: Stormin Mormon wrote: 80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose? A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water. it'll pass as much water as a same sized poly or pvc. Exactly. That's why you use larger poly or PVC than the common garden hose. OR you could use a larger garden hose. duh. Do you have a 1" or 1.5" garden hose? |
#72
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
Nad R wrote:
Michigan is not like California, fresh water is cheap and plentiful here. The reason people do not like Michigan is the long cold winters. I don't like Michigan because of the climate. Hot and humid summers, cold winters. |
#73
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
Brooklyn1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 22:42:57 -0700, SMS wrote: On 6/29/2011 4:30 PM, James Nipper wrote: Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to accomplish what I am trying to do ? Remember that PVC pipe deteriorates in the sun unless painted. Buy 20' lengths of 1" PVC at an irrigation supply house, don't go to Home Depot or Lowe's. For a large job such as described by the OP 20' lenghts will cause lots of leaking problems, and short lengths can't be laid by machine... Home Depot, Lowes, and any plumbing supply emporium sells tubing in spools of several hundred feet. You can buy 300' rolls of 1" PVC from Amazon with free shipping: http://www.amazon.com/Genova-Product...ef=pd_sim_ol_2 Would still be easier and less costly to haul water as needed. That's poly, not PVC. |
#74
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
James wrote:
Thanks David, and the others. First, I don't know what a "nym" is, but sorry.... My faucets at the cabin are based on the cabin water system, which is a well, with a pressure tank in the basement. I get good pressure (60 psi), and the poly pipe will not go uphill. As for drilling a new well, come on guys, I am talking about watering a few plants and bushes, I just dont' want to constantly drag hoses around. That is all that this is about. I do appreciate all the help, and I think that the polypipe is my best bet, although David's last comments may make me consider smaller, perhaps 3/4 inch. BTW, I don't need much pressure at the end, just enough to do some light watering. My recommendation - stick with the 1". You won't get much pressure/volume through the 3/4". The cost difference is not that big. |
#75
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Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
On 7/1/2011 5:23 PM, Bob F wrote:
Brooklyn1 wrote: On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 22:42:57 -0700, wrote: On 6/29/2011 4:30 PM, James Nipper wrote: Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to accomplish what I am trying to do ? Remember that PVC pipe deteriorates in the sun unless painted. Buy 20' lengths of 1" PVC at an irrigation supply house, don't go to Home Depot or Lowe's. For a large job such as described by the OP 20' lenghts will cause lots of leaking problems, and short lengths can't be laid by machine... Home Depot, Lowes, and any plumbing supply emporium sells tubing in spools of several hundred feet. You can buy 300' rolls of 1" PVC from Amazon with free shipping: http://www.amazon.com/Genova-Product...ef=pd_sim_ol_2 Would still be easier and less costly to haul water as needed. That's poly, not PVC. I would definitely avoid the poly unless he wants to be replacing it every couple of years. If you glue couplers properly there will be no leaks. It's UV deterioration that he needs to worry about. When PVC is installed exposed to the sun it needs to be painted. Flexible PVC would also work, but it's not intended to be under pressure all the time, and it's for non-potable water. 100' lengths. It's pretty expensive though. It'd be the easiest to install. I often see very long runs of pipe in state parks where they are running water to a campground. It's always iron pipe. http://flexpvc.com/ |
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