On Fri, 11 Jan 2013 18:16:26 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Here is a closeup of the markings & the valving apparatus:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/11936568.jpg

If anyone has ever used their pressure washer to suck out of the hose,
they would probably know what the secret configuration setup might be.

You still need to use the garden hose, along with the clear tube
inside the spray container. If that is your question.

The weed killer is siphoned from the tube - through the pump. It will
not work without the garden hose connected. I mentioned before to try
priming the tube by filling it with liquid.

I'm not aware of any sprayer that will work without the garden hose.
I'd expect you could damage the pump (not the motor).

YMMV

On Fri, 11 Jan 2013 19:48:26 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Fri, 11 Jan 2013 13:34:52 -0600, NamPhong wrote:

once had one that required a very open nozzle to be attached to the wand
to suck the correct cleaning solution from a container but without the
maximum pressure.

One question.

Since the typical use would be to add detergent to the hose water that is
sprayed out, can we suck ONLY from the container?

Or do we still need to hook the garden hose to the sprayer?

Still need the hose. AIUI, the pressure washer uses a venturi too
pull the soap out of the container. Without water the pump would
probably overheat, too. The water is a coolant as well as a
lubricant.

(The reason I ask is that the area it's needed is hundreds of feet from
the nearest garden hose spigot.)

Hundreds of feet of hose? ;-)

On Fri, 11 Jan 2013 12:32:19 -0800, Oren wrote:

I'm not aware of any sprayer that will work without the garden hose.

Ah. Thanks (and to others who said this too).

I 'could' hook up a few hoses (I bought a few of the gray Costco 3/4"
"industrial" 100-foot hoses a couple of years ago.

They're actually crummy hoses (they kink too much compared to rubber),
but they're long. I'd only need four of them but in reality, I was
looking for a more portable solution once I'm down there, in the ravine,
surrounded by the poison oak.

On Fri, 11 Jan 2013 21:33:46 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Fri, 11 Jan 2013 12:32:19 -0800, Oren wrote:

I'm not aware of any sprayer that will work without the garden hose.

Ah. Thanks (and to others who said this too).

I 'could' hook up a few hoses (I bought a few of the gray Costco 3/4"
"industrial" 100-foot hoses a couple of years ago.

They're actually crummy hoses (they kink too much compared to rubber),
but they're long. I'd only need four of them but in reality, I was
looking for a more portable solution once I'm down there, in the ravine,
surrounded by the poison oak.

Test the sprayer near the house with just one hose. Use a homer
bucket for a soapy water... see if the venturi siphon is / starts
working.

I suspect that is why the tube is clear, so you can actually tell by
visual observation.

On Fri, 11 Jan 2013 13:45:06 -0800, Oren wrote:

Test the sprayer near the house with just one hose. Use a homer bucket
for a soapy water... see if the venturi siphon is / starts working.

I did try that and failed - which is why I asked if I have to turn a
valve or something first.

But I didn't "prime" it, which is what it may need.

On Fri, 11 Jan 2013 16:20:58 -0500, wrote:

Without water the pump would
probably overheat, too. The water is a coolant as well as a
lubricant.

+1

I never start my power washer UNTIL the water is hooked up and turned
on.

On Fri, 11 Jan 2013 21:47:41 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Fri, 11 Jan 2013 13:45:06 -0800, Oren wrote:

Test the sprayer near the house with just one hose. Use a homer bucket
for a soapy water... see if the venturi siphon is / starts working.

I did try that and failed - which is why I asked if I have to turn a
valve or something first.


The operator's manual will tell that when you look at the book, right?

But I didn't "prime" it, which is what it may need.

....why not try it then .. just for giggles

On Fri, 11 Jan 2013 18:28:22 -0800, Oren wrote:

The operator's manual will tell that when you look at the book, right?

Hi Oren,

I'd consult the manual I had it.

I can, of course, google for it (or something similar), and, I can ask
Cosco - I think that's where I bought it - for the company name, but, I
didn't try all that hard simply because I 'suspected' I need to drag four
hundred feet of garden hose - which - isn't really all that useful.

Plus, I won't be spraying a huge swath, 20 feet to 50 feet deep without
the leaves berrys being on the vine, as I'd be wasting my time.

In addition, I DO plan on spraying what I cut as I learned from this
thread that I MUST spray within five minutes (before the sap reverses),
but, for that, since it was just cut, I should have access with the hand
sprayer.

So, there is no rush on figuring out HOW the sprayer works.

On a different note ... I put the camera strap in the bleach wash:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/11939804.jpg

I was surprised. I had expected it to come out WHITE (I used a LOT of
pool chlorine - which is double strength of normal chlorine).

That strap came out better than new.

In addition, the camera is now fully swabbed down with the 1:1:1 mixture
of oxidizer + wetting agent + surfactant ... so let's hope the wife &
kids don't come down with the itchies in the next week!

On Fri, 11 Jan 2013 13:45:35 -0500, Stormin Mormon wrote:

You've done your internet research, which helps duplicate others
success, and not others failures.

Hi Stormin Mormon,

I like that sentiment. Duplicate others' success and not failures!

That's apropos because many people just dive in, and that duplicates the
failures, and few report back the successes so others can follow.

And you're going back and changing the process, as you learn.

Yeah. One thing I learned by doing is that Nikon camera straps are STRONG!

Look at this pictu
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/11939819.jpg

That camera strap was just washed with the whites (socks, underwear,
towels, sheets, etc.) for a 90 minute hot wash with the bleach dispenser
filled with 12% pool chlorine (that's twice the strength of household
bleach).

I had fullyy expected the camera strap to turn white (or brown), and for
the faux leather to peel off - but it all looks like it's brand new!

Who would have thought that the Nikon camera strap was that hardy!

On 1/11/2013 1:48 PM, Danny D. wrote:
On Fri, 11 Jan 2013 13:34:52 -0600, NamPhong wrote:

once had one that required a very open nozzle to be attached to the wand
to suck the correct cleaning solution from a container but without the
maximum pressure.

One question.

Since the typical use would be to add detergent to the hose water that is
sprayed out, can we suck ONLY from the container?

Or do we still need to hook the garden hose to the sprayer?

(The reason I ask is that the area it's needed is hundreds of feet from
the nearest garden hose spigot.)

Methinks you will need the garden hose hooked up also. Even the cheap
pressure washers use 1.8 gallons per minute so you would need a 55
gallon drum to give you any spray time at all and that could get quite
expensive depending on herbicide used.

On Sat, 12 Jan 2013 08:00:04 -0600, NamPhong wrote:

pressure washers use 1.8 gallons per minute so you would need
a 55 gallon drum to give you any spray time at all

I had not realized this.

Thank you for the additional information!

At this point, we've confirmed that the pressure washer ONLY
works from the hose in the practical sense, so I'd simply
need a very long hose.

On Sat, 12 Jan 2013 15:53:21 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Sat, 12 Jan 2013 08:00:04 -0600, NamPhong wrote:

pressure washers use 1.8 gallons per minute so you would need
a 55 gallon drum to give you any spray time at all

I had not realized this.

Thank you for the additional information!

At this point, we've confirmed that the pressure washer ONLY
works from the hose in the practical sense, so I'd simply
need a very long hose.

I'd not apply defolient with a pressure washer, that would be very
wasteful, most would end up on the ground... apply with a hand
operated squirt bottle to the cut stems only... I have a battery
operated spray bottle (two AA cells) that works very well, adjusts
from a spray to a stream. Most folks apply far more defoliant than
necessary... in your case I would cut and spray immediately as I go. I
actually bought this for spraying Japanese beetles with Sevin, did the
job... I got mine from Lowe's.
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-MotoMi...y+spray+bottle

On Sat, 12 Jan 2013 12:52:43 -0500, Brooklyn1 wrote:

I'd not apply defolient with a pressure washer, that would be very
wasteful, most would end up on the ground... apply with a hand
operated squirt bottle to the cut stems only... I have a battery
operated spray bottle (two AA cells) that works very well,

This is very useful information, which, coupled with the suggestion by
others to spray in the first five minutes after cutting, is a good
one:two punch.

I had never realized there are battery-operated sprayers.

Mine is the classic hand pump operated as shown in this pictu
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/11945136.jpg

The great part about the idea of spraying after cutting as opposed to
spraying without cutting, is that the poison oak covers an area far
greater than can be covered with spray - but- cutting it - by necessity -
is such that the cut plants are ALWAYS within spraying distance!

So, oddly, from a practical standpoint, hand spraying can't work without
cutting - yet - it works great if done within 5 minutes of cutting.

One 'problem' I just found out about with cutting though is that the
urushiol in the roots and vines is ten to 100 times as potent as that in
the leaves, so, cutting is inherently more dangerous overall.

However, the other side of this 'problem', is that spraying leaves the
dead vines where they are, which is still a potent hazard for 5 years
(wet environment) to ten years (dry environment) as the soil bacteria and
elements break down the catechols in the sap.

It's very interesting to learn about thine enemy!

On Thu, 10 Jan 2013 08:57:03 -0500, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Do you have any experience with spermicides & PEG?

I found some great sources of glycol ethers.

According to the patents I've been reading, the glycol ethers are
non-ionic surfactants that do two very good things UNDER your top
layers of skin:

a) They bind to the Langerhans dendritic skin cell's quinol receptors
... and, better yet ...
b) They displace any quinols already bound to those receptors!

What this means is that the spermicide glycol eithers both prevent
poison oak uptake, and they reverse the uptake that has already occurred!

Those are pretty neat accomplishments!

That means, therefore, that the previous ingredients are good
but that the secret sauce is the glycol ether.

Since spermicide creams are just as artificially expensive as poison-oak
creams, it behooves us to find a readily available household source
for household glycol ethers, e.g., nonyl phenyl ethoxylate or 2-butoxyethanol.

Here are some a friend in the lab chemical business found for me:
compare.ebay.com/like/120972243205?_lwgsi=y&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes& var=sbar
compare.ebay.com/like/300775144561?_lwgsi=y&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes& var=sbar
amazon.com/dp/B008V60Y2E/ref=asc_df_B008V60Y2E2234299?smid=APLTX8IIKQ3DF&ta g=nextagusmp0424450-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B008V 60Y2E"
www.amazon.com/dp/B008DX4AY8/ref=asc_df_B008DX4AY82314718?smid=APLTX8IIKQ3DF&ta g=nextagusmp0424450-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B008D X4AY8"
www.alibaba.com/showroom/2--butoxyethanol.html
parentables.howstuffworks.com/health-wellness/chemist-mom-explains-2-butoxyethanol.html

On Sat, 12 Jan 2013 18:41:44 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Sat, 12 Jan 2013 12:52:43 -0500, Brooklyn1 wrote:

I'd not apply defolient with a pressure washer, that would be very
wasteful, most would end up on the ground... apply with a hand
operated squirt bottle to the cut stems only... I have a battery
operated spray bottle (two AA cells) that works very well,

This is very useful information, which, coupled with the suggestion by
others to spray in the first five minutes after cutting, is a good
one:two punch.

I had never realized there are battery-operated sprayers.

Mine is the classic hand pump operated as shown in this pictu
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/11945136.jpg

There are battery operated sprayers that are much larger capacity than
the bottle I showed, but I think for what you're doing the small
bottle is more than adequate.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ery%2Bsprayers
http://www.amazon.com/BareGround-Bat...ttery+sprayers